FLORA (AM) By Hand London – the muslin edition

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

I just love this shot… such a beautiful classic Aussie beach (plus a pretty dress)

Slightly behind schedule – life has a habit of getting in the way at the moment… By Hand London’s latest pattern – Flora.

Like any sane sewing blogger – when asked by the By Hand London gals if I was interested in pattern testing… I said YES, YES, YES… (rather in the vein of ‘When Harry Met Sally’.)

This is actually my ‘muslin’ Flora – made up from a stashed cotton sateen… I wasn’t going to blog her but I know you always want MOAR. So here is the Flora prelude to my final version.

By Hand London girls were rather fabulous and organised Tessuti Fabrics to provide some completely amazing fabric (cotton sateen with a satin finish) for my second version. I will photograph it this afternoon. While it’s the same mock-wrap version… it’s completely different due to the dramatic fabric provided by Tessuti. I’ve called it Flora Nightshade. I’ve also lined the skirt. Flora Nightshade is dead posh πŸ™‚

This pattern comes with two bodice options and two skirt options. There is a modest high-neck bodice and (for the floozies like me) there a lower cut mock-wrap bodice. – The skirt is a massive indulgence in ‘oomph’ – so full-skirted addicts out there… Flora is your gal.

Anyways… here’s my Flora (AM) – as in daytime – version. She’s rather rough as guts on the inside (I pinked the skirt seams – errrr couldn’t be bothered to change my overlocker thread that night) but still very pretty and wearable… I couldn’t decide what pictures to use so prepare for a visual onslaught. Pick your favourite!

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

Note to self – holding up the front of a mullet skirt in no way helps the back from not getting wet…

I often think I should crop my pictures more as this is a sewing blog… it’s supposed to be all about the clothes. I just can’t make myself do it – sorry. They are part of my identity, my makes, my lifestyle.

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

Mullet hems – they do look so cool when you photograph them….

By Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

back view…

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

Back view… I do really love how the back armholes just come in a tiny bit… (also love a good bit of reflection in wet sand)

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

side view – mullet hem in all its glory

Pattern notes…

The pattern testing version came with just the high-low (aka mullet hem). Great news – the released pattern has a straight hem as well! In the words of the By Hand London girls… (check out the square neck version – it’s lovely and I’m tempted to make another…)

Fundamentally feminine and universally flattering with her cinched waist and voluminous pleated straight or dipped hem circle skirt, Flora is the definitive party dress. Choose from two entirely different bodice variations: a classic sleeveless faux-wrap style or the more demure tank bodice, with her high square neckline and simple shoulder straps.”

Back neckline
I found the back neckline gaped slightly – so rather than put in back neck darts I straightened up the centre back seam as it curved out a little at the top. I found this also helped the front sit better. I’m sure there is a million reasons why I should have done darts – but hey, this worked for me.

Wrap bodice
This version does gap a little. I did some research and found a slightly different solution which I will share on Floral Nightshade post.

Fabric Selection
The skirt is a fabric-munching monster – you will need a WIDE fabric, 150cm no less – also remember that the mullet option means you will see the underside of the fabric. I cut the skirt for this muslin on the crosswise grain.

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

I did find the bodice gaps a little – I found a cure for that and I’ll write about it in my Tessuti Fabric’s Nightshade Flora post… coming soon…

Also see: Dolly Clackett | Gingermakes | Jolies Bobines | Diary of a Chainstitcher | A Stitching Odyssey | Dixie DIY | Nette | Lladybird

Thank you so much for all your lovely comments on my last post – I’ve been giving myself some rest so I have not had a chance to reply – but thank you, every single one was much appreciated xo

Top 5 Hits of 2013

Top 5 of 2013

Top 5 of 2013

This is a tricky one… am I cheating if I have categories and post multiple makes?
I’ve hyperlinked all the images to the original posts – in case you want more pictures or details…
I’ve also created a Made-by-Me 2013 page where you can see all my makes…

BY HAND LONDON
I love all of these makes. The latest girl in the BHL Club has surfaced many many times this party season – with both heels and bare feet… Georgia is a go-anywhere girl… and seriously comfortable. I asked my husband if it was appropriate for an informal event… and he said “oh well I’ll just have to put up with having the hottest wife in the room again…” LOL I think that’s a good sign.

The new kid in town - Georgia from By Hand London

The new kid in town – Georgia from By Hand London

Elisalotte dress - back

Elisalotte dress – a combination of the Charlotte Skirt and the Elisazlex bodice

The Sari Edition - By Hand London Victoria Blazer

The Sari Edition – By Hand London Victoria Blazer

Charlotte The Second: By Hand London

Charlotte The Second: By Hand London

and my lovely Anna dresses… I love all these…

Anna Rose - a girly girly dress

Anna Rose By Hand London – a girly girly dress

Anna Blue by the seaside

Anna Blue by the seaside. By Hand London

Jungle Anna - there's that wild thigh slit... I finished it a little higher than Anna Roses...

Jungle Anna – there’s that wild thigh slit… I finished it a little higher than Anna Roses… cos Jungle Anna is a wild girl…

MEGAN NIELSEN
Love both of these makes and wear them a lot!

Tania Culottes and the odd giraffe

Tania Culottes and the odd giraffe

Love this skirt! Megan Neilsen's Cascade Skirt

Love this skirt! Megan Neilsen’s Cascade Skirt. Perfect perfect perfect fabric for this make.

GRAINLINE
It’s a recent love affair but I love the modern simplicity of Jen’s designs.

Grainline Maritime Urban butterfly

now I’m wondering if there is some halo graffiti around town somewhere….

Grainline Maritime Shorts in floral denim

Grainline Maritime Shorts in floral denim

Grainline Studio - Archer It was extremely windy - so this looks hard more fitted than it is!

Grainline Studio – Archer
It was extremely windy – so this looks more fitted than it is!

KNITTING
I re-taught myself to knit. All I can say is YouTube is a wonder! Of all my makes I adore Idlewood the most. Long, warm, casual AND it has a monster cowl.

Idlewood by Cecily Glowik MacDonald.

Idlewood – taken after 36 hours of travel. I knitted the last four rows just after I landed!

Idlewood by Cecily Glowik MacDonald COWL

Now THAT’S what I call a cowl!

Sewaholic Cambie and Whole Wheat cardigan

Sewaholic Cambie and Whole Wheat cardigan

Sewaholic Cambie & Andi Satterlund's Marion

Sewaholic Cambie & Andi Satterlund’s Marion

Chuck by Andi Satterlund - front view

Chuck by Andi Satterlund – front view

MARIA DENMARK & VOGUE MASH-UP
I adore this pattern mash-up. I wear the blue dress a lot on the weekends.
And Clairy – she’s my kinda gal… I’ve worn her to Frocktails and to a work function.
In both versions I feel fabulous and I get loads of compliments.
My original Maria Denmark day-to-night top is also heavily worn.
Buy this pattern!

Maria Denmark day-to-night dress - take 2

Maria Denmark day-to-night dress – take 2

Clairy Dress - pouting lips, shaking hips...

Clairy Dress – pouting lips, shaking hips…

HONORABLE MENTIONS

I’ve made lots of things I really like this year! I know – fatheaded of me but it’s true… so the honourable mentions go to…

Hot Mess Birthday Dress

On the beach before Birthday dinner

Hot Mess Birthday Dress – I’ve worn this quite a lot. it’s easy to wear and the b/w scheme make it as classic – despite the craziness!

Liesl + Co Late Lunch Tunic aka my beach shirt…

Liesl + Co Late Lunch Tunic SewBusyLizzy

The Beach edition of the Late Lunch Tunic (and my Michael Jackson moment)

McCalls 6611 Fashion Star Jacket

McCalls 6611 - Fashion Star

McCalls 6611 – Fashion Star

Sewaholic Lonsdale

Sewaholic Lonsdale - the front view

Sewaholic Lonsdale – the front view

There are a few more – but that’s enough πŸ™‚

The new girl in town, Georgia dress from By Hand London

When Elisalex of By Hand London contacted me and asked if I could like to try their new pattern – I think nearly jumped through the computer screen with excitement.

And here she is…

GEORGIA! As or I call this version… My Georgy Girl.

The new kid in town - Georgia from By Hand London

The new kid in town – Georgia from By Hand London

Georgia Dress, the back view

Georgia Dress, the back view

I’ve got about four Georgia dresses buzzing about in my head (she is as demanding as Anna was, I have warned you). However since I have been dying to make a fitted denim dress – this just seemed to be the perfect opportunity!

This is stretch cotton denim from Spotlight. An amazing bargain table find at $4 a metre. It didn’t look that great on the bolt but I love it made up. It’s perfect. Soft blue, faded cream, irregular print. Perfection.

This is fabric so soft and stretchy, it’s like wearing PJs. Seriously. Yes, even as a fitted dress.

CONSTRUCTION

SKIRT

The skirt has six panels. I was a little nervous about the skirt fitting over my junk trunk (I know, typical girl) so I graded the skirt from the bodice downwards out to a size 10 – better to have more fabric in my seams than none I figured!

I then machine basted the skirt together (with the longest stitch) and tried on the skirt inside out. I found this the easiest way to see where I need to grade the curves in and back out to achieve a good fit.

My inside-out approach to fitting the Georgia Dress

My inside-out approach to fitting the Georgia Dress

I basted the new seams (back to size 6 anyway you idiot Lizzy)Β and when I was happy, I machined the final seams, removed the basting,Β then used my overlocker/serger to trim/neaten the seams.

I also pegged the skirt inΒ just aΒ little at the hemline for a more streamlined fit.

Bodice

I found the bodice to be an excellent fit. You will notice that I gathered the centre of my bodice. This is simply because my denim was stretchier than I thought and the neckline stretched out a little and was gaping along the edge. I considered unpicking the entire bodice and then remembered how the gathering stitches had changed the fit of my Hot Mess Birthday Dress bodice. The denim was a little heavy for gathering stitches so I didΒ three smallΒ pleats instead. Seems to have worked – although probably increased the va-va-voom of the dress which always freaks me out a little.

If you are using a fabric with some stretch. I would advise stay-stitching or lightly interfacing your bodice shell fabric or at least the seam line to avoid the neckline stretching.

Georgia: the bodice lining, quilting cotton & boning.

Georgia: the bodice lining, quilting cotton & boning.

I also stitched lightweight polyester boning to the seam allowances of the lining.Β I just use the Rigiflex (?)Β boning which you can machineΒ stitch through, it’s quite flexible and very easy to apply. It doesn’t make the dress uncomfortable, I actually think it makes dresses with a structured bodice easier to wear as they just sit and don’t lose their structure with wear.

I understitched the lining. The instructions don’t tell you to do this but it improves the finish of the dress.

Zipper

This dress has an invisible zipper. Georgia’s zipper insertion is per ‘normal’ and then the instructions have you handstitch the lining to the zipper and along the bodice lower edge.

I machined the lining to the zipper using the Sewaholic Cambie methodΒ of attaching a lining to a zipper. It’s neater and quicker. Just sayin’.

It’s easy to do – once you have sewn in the zipper, just turn the lining back so the right sides of the bodice shell and lining are facing. Line the lower seam allowance of the lining back (in line with the bodice seam. Pin along the zip. Then using your normal zipper foot sew down alongside the zipper teeth (on the side closest to the seam edge). Turn the lining back out and you have attached the lining. So simple.

Attaching the lining to the zipper by machine
Attaching the lining to the zipper by machine.

So there you have it – there’s a new girl in town… and I think she’s bringing her friends… stay tuned.

The ELH’s reaction was just ‘Wow’ when I walked down the stairs wearing this. I think that’s good, yes?

Georgia Dress

Later in the evening, a little crumpled… we have had a lot of rain this week but the sun came out on Sunday afternoon – I think Georgia wanted to meet you…

OTHER SEWBUSYLIZZY NEWS…

Madly stitching the Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat.

Ordering some fabric for my Lolita Patterns Gunmetal top – and there will be a pattern giveaway when I blog it. I have this idea in my head for this top/dress – and although I’ve tried to make do with what’s available in town, I just can’t – stretch fabric is harder to find than you might think in my town. Online ordering it must be! I should have blogged this on its launch – but I’ve had all kinds of challenges and things going on in my life… sometimes you just can’t do everything… boo.

Pattern: Georgia Dress, By Hand London. Sent to me by the By Hand London girls (mwah – love you as always. And yes I stalked the postman ’til it arrivedΒ – I’m not ashamed LOL). Β Available in Australia at:-

Fabric: Cotton stretch denim from Spotlight, Australia.

Also See: The amazing version by Roisin of Dolly Clackett | Sally Bee makes gorgeousΒ blockedΒ plaid Georgia

Welcome to the jungle… my third By Hand London dress… she’s a very sexy girl…

Welcome to the Jungle… one of my all time fave songs (forgive me, it’s a generational thing that I just can’t shake). That song screams in my head when I look at this dress…

Welcome to the jungle we take it day by day
If you want it you’re gonna bleed but it’s the price to pay
And you’re a very sexy girl that’s very hard to please
You can taste the bright lights but you won’t get there for free
In the jungle welcome to the jungle
Feel my, my, my serpentine
Ooh, I want to hear you scream *

Jungle Anna - when a good pattern goes wild...

Jungle Anna – when a good pattern goes wild…

My third Anna. I told you they were all very different didn’t I?

I honestly was hanging out to post this tomorrow – I fear I am clogging up your blog readers… but I can’t resist!! Jungle Anna was not to be contained in the draft blog post pile! She’s a wild one.

Every time I look at this Anna I think of Anne of Pretty Grievances. I hope I’ve done herΒ proud going OTTΒ on animal print! I swear she is the only person on God’s green earth who could have managed to convince me to sew anΒ animal print fabric, she’s kinda irresistible is our Anne. I’m hoping I have enough chutzpah to carry this dress off!

I know, it’s not a dress for shrinking violets…

Jungle Anna - it's a bit of a statement...

Jungle Anna – it’s a bit of a statement piece…

While I was sewing Anna Blue, I had the idea spring into my head – a snake-skin Anna Dress, a MAXI slithery snake-skin Anna… something super slinky & sinuous… the idea defies logic as I have a very real fear of snakes…

Anna can be sweetly sexy as Anna Rose, a darling day dressΒ as Anna BlueΒ but can she go va-va-voom?

Jungle Anna - there's that wild thigh slit... I finished it a little higher than Anna Roses...

Jungle Anna – there’s that wild thigh slit… I finished it a little higher than Anna Roses… cos Jungle Anna is a wild girl… the only thing I don’t like about this dress is how light the fabric is on the reverse (underlining it would have ruined its slithery drape – I will just need to be ladylike and not strut quite so much…)

This time I interfaced the neck facing pieces. I wanted to see how it would sit with a firmer facing piece behind that slash neck. It does sit nicely, albeit with a tiny bit of a ripple – which I think is more about my scrawny upper body than the pattern. *sigh* when will I ever grow a proper body?… I think the interfacing has also make the slash much more of a V-neck. I actually prefer the softness of the Anna Rose’s neckline, even if it does flip out a little, although I think the severity of the V-neck suits thisΒ Anna dress. She’s not a ‘softly softly’ kinda gal. I am Jungle Anna – hear me ROAR! lol.

Jungle Anna - a v/slash neckline

Jungle Anna – slash neckline (bra strap popping off the shoulder – Jungle Anna is no dainty miss…)

Yet again, another fabric from Lincraft. They have a small selection of rayons – almost all animal print though these days! I love these rayons, they have drape beautifully but have the comfort of cotton.

Once again I put in neck darts, on both the back bodice and facing pieces. They sit about two inches in – three inches long from the raw edges to the dart tipΒ – and I also put these on the facing pieces.

Everything is French seamed with the exception of the front slit seam.

Rather than folding the fabric in half and cutting out the pieces, I cut out everythingΒ flat (except the front bodice and front neck facing). I did this to ensure the black line of the print ran up each skirt panel towards my waist. I think it makes the dress look darker, moodier and more dramatic. Yes it took much longer but I think it was worth it. With such a busy print, pattern matching wasn’t realistic however the line does run from the centre of the slash neckline to the hem – I think that’s enough!

Jungle Anna - the back view

Jungle Anna – the back view

Note I’m only 5 foot 4 – so if you are a shortie like me – you can carry off a maxi – stop thinking you can’t (Note to self: you are being bossy again).

Oh yes, and there are legs aplenty…

Jungle Anna - hanging around waiting for Tarzan

Jungle Anna – hanging around waiting for Tarzan… or feeling slightly concerned there might be a creepy crawly under my foot… eek…

I did a lot of hand sewing with this one. Being a rayon like Anna Rose, I invested the time to hand sew that long long slit, the facing to the shoulders and also the hem. So the dress slithers along beautifully – as it should!

Just hanging around in the jungle with my Anna.

Just hanging around in the jungle with my Anna.

I think this would look great teamed with a cropped, fitted, weather-beaten denim jacket. Or a fitted grungy black jacket… She’s not the prim sort – she’s my wild girl Anna.

So there you have it – the three faces of Anna… I have no doubt I will discover many more aspects of Anna – after all… we are BFFs remember… Anna Rose, Anna Blue and Jungle Anna.

I’m thinking it should be The August of Anna – why not farewell your summer in style or get ready for a sultry summer… I know you want to… heck I might even make another if you do! The By Hand London girls say there will be a sewalong soon!

Have you seen Karen of Did You Make That? she looks smashing in her maxi Anna. It’s gorgeous!

Pattern: Anna from By Hand LondonΒ (Aussies can get it from Sew Squirrel)
Fabric: Rayon from Lincraft.

Also see: Anna Rose | Anna Blue

PS. I promise the next thing I blog won’t be another Anna dress (it would be hilarious you have to admit)Β – it’s a Vogue dress (Miss 8 reckons I look like a Barbie doll!). Yes, I have been OTT SewBusyLizzy this week!

PPS I’m not sorry about bombarding you with all my Annas… it’s been fun!

PPS a big thank you to ELH who was very busy photographing dresses all day!

* Lyrics: Welcome to the Jungle by AxlΒ Rose, Saul Hudson, Duff Rose McKagan, Izzy Stradlin & Steven Adler.

Anna Blue – a By Hand London dress. My Second Anna

OK here we have the midi version of Anna – not spectacular in the way Anna Rose is – but a lovely dress (for those of you scared by maxis!)

Anna Blue - a By Hand London dress. The midi version with the high neckline

Anna Blue – a By Hand London dress. The midi version with the high neckline

This is a lovely dress – it’s the sort of dress you could wear any old day. In a plain fabric you could wear it to work (now there’s a thought… *restrains herself from starting the car and going to the fabric store asap* focus Lizzy – keep typing…).

This is a printed linen/rayon blend from Lincraft (available online!). I love linen and the very nature of this fabric meant that it was the easiest Anna to sew, I knocked it together in a few hours – and it’s still neatly finished! The darts and seams meet perfectly, the facing sits inside neatly, it’s a classic linen dream. And being a print, the creases don’t show too badly – and I think the rayon blend means it does crease that badly anyway. Linen is really lovely stuff, if you haven’t tried sewing with it – you really should (Note to self: stop being so bossy).

Anna Blue a By Hand London Dress

Anna Blue – at the rock pools

I overlocked the seams as the linen was a little bulky for French seams and the overlocked seams press flat beautifully in linen. I turned up the hem with bias binding. I handstitched the armhole and skirt hems. All in all, a lovely make. I’m sure I will wear this quite a bit in summer.

I think I want to try that slash neckline in linen… how many Annas can I make before it becomes ridiculous? You are right – it’s just not possible to make too many.

The linen sits very differently to the rayon of Anna Rose. the kimono sleeves don’t drape, they jut out more in a more structural way – which totally transforms the dress and many (non-stitchers) might struggle to accept this is from the same dress pattern. The neckline is high… I’m wondering whether to lower it ever so slightly. Not too much as I think it’s a nice design feature. In a plain colour it would look great with a chunky statement necklace…

The pleats also behave differently in linen, again a much more structural design element, than the soft pleats of rayon Anna Rose.

Anna Blue bodice details

Anna Blue – in linen. The waist pleats are really lovely in linen.

Yes, it’s not the stellar show-stopping dress that Anna Rose is – but it’s not nice to compare sisters like that. It’s a bit like saying “She’s pretty but you know, don’t worry, you are much smarter“. For either sister, it’s a slap in the face. It’s just different dresses for different days.

Anna Blue dress

Anna Blue – a beautiful summer dress.

Really love this little dress. If Colette Peony appeals to you but the fitting issues have either put you off or beaten you – this is a great option. Fitted waist, flared skirt, boat neckline.

Anna Blue - side view

Anna Blue – side view

I squeezed this dress out of less than 2m, I think it was about 1.8m or so. I do make the smallest size so I might be able to fit more across the width of the fabric.

Hmmmm, I think I need to remeasure the hem. Looks a little droopy at the back.

I added neck darts to the back pieces, about 2 inches in from the zipper and 3 inches deep. I also added these to the facing pieces.

ENOUGH… go buy this pattern.

Or if you have it. GO SEW IT.

And if you are still not convinced I’ll be back tomorrow with Anna 3… and she’s completely different again (some of you are very hard to impress! LOL)

Pattern: By Hand London Anna Dress.Β (Aussies can get it from Sew Squirrel)
Fabric: Linen from Lincraft (also from my stash!) you can buy this one online!

Also see: Anna Rose dress – my first Anna

Anna Blue by the seaside

Anna Blue by the seaside