The Unblogged: Waffle Pattern Vanilla and Cali Faye Collections Rumi Top

So yet more tops, this time some knits.

While I was feeling out-of-sorts this year, I resorted to sewing lots of simple tops to sate my craving to sew – which it really didn’t. Although I do have a collection of tops to wear so all is not lost. In hindsight I should have sewn more complicated garments, I find while I love simple garments, I find sewing challenging garments more relaxing – which is what I needed in 2016. However these little garments were about all I could fit in. Such is life!

Vanilla Top, Waffle Patterns

First up the Waffle Pattern Vanilla top.

I hate these photos so probably why it’s been hovering in the Neverland of Unblogged.

Vanilla Top, Waffle Patterns

Vanilla Top, Waffle Patterns

One thing I really don’t like about this top is how the perfectly neat neckline hits the stripes at an odd angle (due to the slightly-off-beat stripe directions with the drape) and looks messy. It really annoys my eyeballs like dust on a dry windy afternoon! I’ve often worn a scarf with it for that reason because it visually drives me bonkers. But I can be precious.

 

I do find the sleeves an odd length but I also think in a different weight fabric they wouldn’t bother me so much.

Waffle Patterns, Vanilla Top

If you like stripes doing odd things, you will love this

So another easy-to-wear-with-jeans garment as hence got a lot of wear throughout the colder months as a ‘house’ jumper with jeans.

Yes, you may recognise the fabric from my first Penny Raglan. I managed to squeeze a Penny Raglan and this top out of 2m of this fabric.

I think this fabric choice is too heavy for this design BUT very easy to make and rather fun to wear. My eldest daughter has declared that this will be her top when I tired of it.

This is the second Waffle Patterns pattern I have made and I must say I do enjoy them. Nicely presented, comprehensive but not excessive instructions well illustrated with diagrams, and an A0 copy shop sheet printing option… and you can turn off layers to print as many or as few sizes as you like. I’d love to try some of her jacket patterns, the details are thoughtful and they have intrigued me for some time.

Pattern: Waffle Patterns, Vanilla top
Size: Size 34
Fabric: Make It Fabrics, Brisbane

RUMI TOP by Cali Faye Collections

Next up a Cali Faye Collection Rumi Top which was released a few months ago.

I volunteered to pattern test for this and found the process really interesting. I’ve always quite liked the design aesthetic of this designer, simple and modern. Although the pattern price point is quite high.

Rumi Top, Cali Faye Designs

Rumi Top, Cali Faye Designs

Cali Faye Collections have a closed facebook group for their testers. Throughout testing period, testers post their versions, comment about the design, instructions and so on. The pattern did changed several times in response to feedback from testers and it was interesting seeing different fabrics being used. I thought it was a thorough, open and interesting community sewing process.

Rumi Top - Side view

Rumi Top – Side view

I sewed up the final version which you can see here. It’s a large over-sized boxy top with fitted sleeves. I’ve worn it a lot, it is easy to wear and great with skinny jeans or fitted pants. It is a very simple design and reminds me of my Japanese pattern book top patterns.

The neckline is finished with woven bias tape. I haven’t finished a knit neckline in this manner before and would be curious how that works for a stretchier knit than this. With this rather stable cotton terry knit, it did provide a nice neat, flat finish.

I would advise sewing with a knit with nice drape. Anything too heavy and you may find yourself wearing a tent!

Rumi Top, Cali Faye Designs. Back view

Rumi Top, Cali Faye Designs. Back view

Pattern: Cali Faye Collections Rumi Top
Size: XS
Fabric: Cotton Terry Knit, Spotlight Australia
Note: I received this pattern as part of the testing process, all opinions my own.

And I think that’s all the Unblogged tops done now. Hooray!

The Unblogged – Grainline Willow Tank and True Bias Ogden Cami

As 2016 rapidly disappears, I’m determined to clear some of my projects out of my head and into the blog. So expect a slight rush of posts before I disappear again for a while.

I view my blog as a documentation of my makes and my sewing journey – I’ve frequently been sorry I haven’t blogged a few things as when I go back to a pattern I have no notes of the changes or size I may have made.

So for record-keeping sake for me (selfish blogging)… here are the Grainline Studio Willow Tank/Dress and the True Bias Ogden Cami.

No time for photos and I don’t think they really merit the time required, particularly since the Willow feels like a work-in-progress.

Most of my blog photos are taken while walking my dogs on the beach, however I simply haven’t had the time to be so organised to be achieving multiple things at once this year. And sometimes… I just don’t want a photo of ‘tired me’ on record.

True Bias Ogden Cami

I really don’t feel the need to write an epic blog post about the Ogden Cami as it has been blogged everywhere – and generally received a tsunami of universe love. With good reason. It’s simplicity can make it a very versatile winner if it’s your sort of thing and the dartless fit works for you. It must be said, I’ve seen several add darts to this pattern with great success.

Odgen Cami by True Bias.

Ogden Cami. Hot off the machine.

I’ve sewn this up with some leftovers from this skirt.

I made this ages ago and tried it on before I understitched the facings… the fit seemed a little too tight under my arms and across my upper bust. I assigned it to the naughty basket, upset to have wasted about $1 worth of leftover ‘op shop’ vintage fabric that I loved but felt unable to throw it out. Ridiculous but true.

I rescued it this week, understitched the facings and then pressed and pressed it… and for some reason… perhaps different underwear choice (!), the fit is much better and I now adore it. Another pretty little top to wear in summer with my favourite scruffy jeans. Lesson learnt: don’t give up too early!

Odgen Cami by True Bias

Ogden Cami ‘out in the wild’ sneak retail store mirror shot while Christmas shopping

I opted to just overlock/serge the lining lower raw edge and use a narrow hem on the outer hemline.

Described on the True Bias site as “The Ogden Cami is a simple blouse that can either be worn on its own or as a layering piece under blazers and cardigans. It has a soft V neck at both center front and center back necklines, and delicate spaghetti straps. The neckline and armholes are finished with a partial lining for a beautiful, high-end finish.”

And the suggested fabrics are “Light weight woven fabrics such as crepe, rayon challis, voile, and lightweight linen.”

Like so many before me, I do really like this pattern. I do struggle to tell the front from the back – which based on responses to my instagram post is a common theme and it’s agood idea to mark the back with the label or some stitches. I’m sure I have it on backwards in the above photo… no one noticed… so wear it however you fancy I say!

Pattern: Ogden Cami, by True Bias
Size: 0
Fabric: Vintage cotton I purchased for $3 from the op shop. It was only about 1m wide. I’m not sure whether it has a bit of rayon in it, or perhaps all rayon and maybe some polyester. Whatever it is, it’s cool to wear with nice drape and oh so pretty.

Grainline Willow Tank/Dress

I purchased this on impulse when I succumbed to the Penny Raglan. And also thought at the time… “Did I just pay that for a basic woven top pattern?”. However for me, Grainline is a good buy. Solid, reliable basics that are always in high rotation for everyday wear. Not necessarily ‘exciting’ sewing but highly wearable pieces that always seem to come together with little effort or fiddling.

The Grainline Willow Tank is described as “…fitted at the shoulders and falls into a relaxed fit below the bust. It’s unfussy and can be made into a dress or a tank top…  Techniques involved include sewing a straight seam, darts, hemming and applying bias facing. Pattern is nested to facilitate cutting between sizes if needed.

Suggested fabrics are: “Light to medium weight fabrics such as cotton, linen, silk, crepe de chine, charmeuse, voile, chambray, etc.”

Both my attempts at the Willow Tank have been made in leftover pieces of linen.

Willow Tank, pattern by Grainline Studio.

Willow Tank, pattern by Grainline Studio. My first attempt in a rayon/linen blend from Lincraft

I made my first Willow back in July!

The darts on my first Willow are at least 1/2inch, if not more, too low. Despite this, I do prefer the fit of this one compared the second Willow (below) as this linen is a linen/rayon blend and the fabric drapes in a slightly softer fashion. So much more forgiving of the low darts. Despite the slightly-off fit, I’ve worn it several times as it’s so darn pretty and a perfect partner to scruffy jeans on the weekend. It’s leftover from my Grainline Morris Blazer which I adore and love to wear.

Willow Tank, pattern by Grainline Studio

Willow Tank, take 2. Floral lightweight linen from The Fabric Store

The second I whipped up in a lightweight linen, leftovers from a Vogue dress I finished up tonight after dinner with some hand stitching. I shifted the darts up 1/2inch however I think they need to be higher. I simply folded up the excessive between the dart and armhole so as not to impact on the armhole size and did likewise on the back piece.

As this linen has less drape, despite being a finer fabric than my first Willow, it’s far more tentlike on me. My eldest daughter loves it, mainly because the fabric is so pretty I think. So perhaps I’m being too fussy… it’s been known to happen! Maybe paired with some skinny jeans or shorts I will feel differently.

Willow Bias Finishes

I used to hate bias finished neckline and armholes, however I am very pleased with the finish on these. They are lying beautifully flat and neat.

I did sew the bias stripes end to end with a 20mm seam, rather than the 4mm (1/4 inch) seam as directed. I found them a little long and I like to stretch them a little to fit as I find they sit flatter when finished – in my experience anyway. This does really depend on your fabric choice and the stretch of the bias though!

You do need patience to achieve a nice neat finish with bias strip finishes – and it’s worth it. I find it easier to press the edge of the bias stripe that will be turned to the inside before I attach the other edge to the neck or armhole. I find it’s easier to achieve a more consistent width of the bias tape –and avoids iron-steamed finger tips!

I whipped this one up on a Sunday morning.

Pattern: Grainline Studio, Willow Tank Dress
Size: 0
Fabrics: rayon/linen blend from Lincraft (blue/white) and lightweight linen from The Fabric Store (blue/khaki/white/yellow).

Final Thoughts

I love having these patterns that use minimal fabric lengths. I think there are a few more people out there with an ever-growing stash of fabric scraps that seem too big to throw out yet too little for another project.

I’m trying to make these little tops and whatnot with the ‘leftovers’ as I’m sewing other dresses or skirts to ensure I don’t end up with piles of short lengths that never get used for anything. It’s too easy to move onto the next project rather than tying up the ‘loose ends’ of the leftover pieces. Not to mention the fact if you whip up a little top in the same fabric you don’t need to change your machine threads!

I think they are also excellent for those irresistible remanent bin purchases and indulging in some gloriously expensive fabric as you don’t need much.

Not everything we sew needs to be a dress.

 

 

The Unblogged – Penny Raglan by Grainline Studios

or more than one Penny for your thoughts… 

I impulsively bought the Grainline Penny Raglan – after resisting it for quite some time. Even after I bought it I thought “did I really pay that much for an oversized raglan tshirt pattern??” Yes I did.

It was money well spent. I’ve made four of these and I love them all. It’s the tshirt I reach for every other weekend and afternoon. It went so quickly from my sewing machine into my wardrobe I barely thought to blog it.

Described by Grainline as “The Penny Raglan is an oversized tee perfect for summer fun. The breezy shape keeps the fabric from clinging so you can stay cool while looking great.”

Penny Raglan, Grainline Studios

Penny Raglan, Grainline Studios. I hate these pictures – taken months ago. Just having a bad day 😦

My first one, pictured here, was sewn from a double-sided knit, stripes one side and dark grey marle on the other. I simply flipped the fabric for the sleeves… and hey presto, saved on some stripe-matching trauma. Yay for contrast raglan sleeves! This is a rather heavy knit but I actually like the body the knit has and how boxy it is. Not to everyone’s taste but I’ve worn it a lot – so clearly my taste.

Is it flattering? Not particularly… but it’s perfect for lazy days. I like it with skinny jeans.

Is it huge? Yes. Massive. The neckline is wide and the armholes deep. Sometimes I like that. I made size 0 which matches my measurements.

I think I added an inch in length as I favour lower cut jeans and have a longer torso.

Penny Raglan - back view

Penny Raglan – back view. I was post-gym and in hockey mother Saturday morning mode – hence the sports crop top. Hockey has been over for months – which shows how far behind I am!

I have no doubt I will try it in a light knit sooner or later… but I need to sew some dresses and skirts for summer first.

Penny Raglan - contrast mostaches.

Penny Raglan – contrast mustaches. Life selfie (again). The ‘matching shirt is simply reversed – black jersey main and mustache sleeves.

My second and third were from a mustache print and black jersey and the fourth a blue floral french terry (no pictures sorry). My daughters love these oversized tees too and are eagerly waiting for my cast-offs… The black jersey one with mustache sleeves has already been claimed by the ‘posing coach’ as a PJ top.

It’s simple to make, allows for some fun sleeve or neckband options. And it’s the easiest thing to wear with jeans.

I sewed all seams with my overlocker (pattern is designed with seam allowances for this). I did pin and use my machine to first attach the neckband before serging it as serged ‘oops’ are much harder to fix!. I used my coverstitch to finish the hems.

If you prefer a fitted tshirt – this is not the pattern for you!

I have much love for the humble Grainline Penny Raglan. Simple, basic, easy to wear.

Perhaps unblogged but not unworn.

Pattern: Penny Raglan by Grainline Studios, size 0
Fabrics: Make It Fabrics Brisbane (stripes) and Spotlight Stores Australia (mustache & floral)

Top 5 of 2016 – an abbreviated version

I’ve had a tough 2016. That’s the honest truth. So I’m feeling a bit reflective and Crafting a Rainbow’s Top 5 has played on my mind.

Top 5 2016 - an abbreviated version

Top 5 2016 – an abbreviated version

This year I’ve had less time for myself than ever before – largely my fault. I tend to say ‘yes’ to every request for help, community service and anything and everything else. I’ve found the best and only way to have a break is to physically leave town for a few days. That can be physically exhausting so it’s a bit of a double-edged sword. It’s been a relentless grind and at my best I am super-charged with enthusiastic energy as I relentlessly plough through everything in my path and at my worst tired self, exhausted and emotional. Pretty sure I’m not alone there – we all have days like that.

So I’ve haven’t sewn as much this year. I probably needed to but my work/life demands have defeated me. I did spend many of my winter months learning to play hockey (field hockey – much to my mother’s horror) and I loved it. What I may lack in skills, I make up for in reckless fearlessness and speed – I often referred to myself as the ‘sacrifical mutton’ as I delighted in taking on any player or high-speed ball to save a goal. The team may have nicknamed me ‘Crazy Eyes’…

I don’t think I’ve sewn enough to cull at Top 5 in every category I’ve decided to do an abbreviated version…

HIT

Of course it’s the tutu. It was an absolute slog and I tied myself up in a knot in indecisive anxiety but got there in the end. Yes there might be another in 2017. Might.

with the tiny tots

with the tiny tots

The garment I simply love… the Asaka Kimono from Named. I love this, I wear it most mornings while I drink my coffee in my great grandfather’s chair. In a relentless life that seems to take more than it gives, having a silk dressing gown to slip on is a tiny personal luxury to be treasured.

Asaka Kimono, Named Patterns, back view

Asaka Kimono, Named Patterns, back view

MISS

Sewn in 2015 but it’s taken me a year to accept this is a miss – I’ve sent it onto a reader who loved it.

I find it hard to give up on things that don’t love me back – don’t we all?

Burda Gathered Peplum Blouse 03/2015 #109 sewn by Sew Busy Lizzy

the failed Burda shirt

HIGHLIGHT

Brisbane Frocktails. I’ve come to love this city and its Spoolettes. I really should blog my outfit from this, New Look 6446 in black crepe. I’ve quite undecided how I feel about it. It was fun to wear something completely different. I’ve worn it since to a work function so here’s a ‘arty gallery and a lift selfie’ to tide you over to the eventual blog post on this pattern.

newlook6446_black_side

An ‘arty’ gallery selfie before a work function commences…

New Look 6446 in black 'French' crepe

New Look 6446 in black ‘French’ crepe

REFLECTION

Like people, some patterns and fabric won’t love you back. Such is life.

I love to sew. I’ve missed it.

GOALS

Sew more detailed garments because I love those projects. I find a myriad of details is the best place to lose myself and relax.

Read more books.

Be kinder to myself. When you always put yourself second, so does everyone else. Lesson learnt. 🙂

Vogue 8997 – just a delightful dress

Sorry – blog binge – two dress posts in one day. I am too pleased with this one to wait!

It’s easy to be seduced by the pages of designer patterns offered by Vogue – I am all.the.time. However quietly lurking in the back of the catalogues are pages of timeless designs that look equally gorgeous sewn up.

So here’s one of the unsung non-designer heroes from the ‘Vogue Easy Options dresses‘ catalogue pages. Sorry for the photo spam but there are so many things to like about this dress. After we took the river shots I suddenly remembered this charity If We All Had Wings wall art and wanted to use it as well – because #wings #ifweallhadwings 🙂

Vogue 8997 - if we all had wings

Vogue 8997 – a classic ‘pretty’ dress

described by Vogue as:

Lined dress has princess seams, close-fitting bodice, front and back V-neckline, raised waist, stitched hems, back zipper, and unlined sleeve variations. A: Butterfly sleeves and narrow hem. B, C: Sleeveless. A, B, C: Flared skirt. D, E, F: Semi-fitted skirt, and back slit. D: Short sleeves and contrast panels. F: Three-quarter length sleeves.

Includes separate pattern pieces for A, B, C and D cup sizes.

Vogue 8997 - pattern cover. Image from Vogue patterns.

Vogue 8997 – pattern cover. Image from Vogue patterns. https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v8997

Things I Love

The back! I love, love, love the v-back on this dress.

I love the back view of this dress. LOVE IT,

I love the back view of this dress. LOVE IT.

Pockets!

Vogue 8997

Pockets – and I also love the v-neck. I think it’s one of my favourite neckline styles.

I love how the skirt falls in eight panels from the bodice. It skims across your waist and flares out beautifully. Plus it is very comfortable to sit in, eat a large meal in… I know this because I have!

I feel super girly - yet not too fussy - in this dress. I love it.

I feel super girly – yet not too fussy – in this dress. I love it.

Princess seam bodice… and it comes in A, B, C and D cup sizes.

Oh and the TWIRL factor.

Vogue 8997

Twirling – I don’t do this much, since I had children my balance is seriously out of whack!

Construction Notes

I used an invisble zipper so changed the construction slightly to accommodate it.

I turned up the dress hem with bias binding as I like the finish.

I attached the lining differently to the instructions. I find the usual Vogue instructions are much more fiddly and don’t result in such a clean finish. Rather than create a huge online tutorial on this – you can read all about it on the Slapdash Sewist’s blog. I don’t often see the point in reinventing the wheel.

I hand sewed the lining to the zipper as I sometimes find it easier to get a neat finish at the top of the zipper pull. I also hand sewed all the hems. Yes, it took a couple of nights but it’s relaxing and I don’t use my machine once the kids are in bed.

The bodice pieces are all interfaced.

I decided to line the dress with fine cotton lawn. This makes the skirt rather full but I love it.

Minor Things

I think I need to fiddle with the fit a little as it feels a little roomy across the upper bust.

vogue-9887-front2

I do wish that the lining had a faced lining around the neckline.

I might run the skirt seams in a little if I make this again as it’s just a little large through the waist… but then again… oh so comfortable.

Holy heck, it’s a lot of hand hemming to sew the lining and the dress hems on this one!

I’m feeling inspired to sew a few more dresses right now!

Thanks Vogue for a lovely pattern, don’t send it to the OOP sin bin too fast!

Pattern: Vogue 8997. Size 6, B-cup.
Fabric: Linen/rayon blend from Lincraft, Australia. Sadly sold out at my store and I can’t see it online *sobs*. I just adore the vivid colours and the drape of this fabulous fabric.
Also see: Barbara Jane Made | Zoopolis | Madame Sew & Sew with lace – so pretty! | Dellia | Sew Limitless | Elle L Silks 

Wall Art: If We All Had Wings – a local charity that supports families with cancer patients.

An ‘out take’ with my self-proclaimed ‘posing coach’… she’s 11… stop growing child!

She's kooky and I adore her. My lovely little Giselle.

She’s kooky and I adore her. My lovely little Giselle.

Vogue 1499 – playing with stripes

I’ve had a few of these projects in the last 12 months, the things that just miss the mark. While I’m not ‘in love’ with this dress, I don’t dislike it terribly. It’s a fun design and I enjoyed making it.

Vogue 1499, Anne Klein design, side view

OK but not quite right – fit or style wise

While I used to berate myself for wasting fabric, bad choices and so on… I don’t feel that way any more. Every garment or project contains a lesson in itself, whether it is better understanding fabric choices, personal style, new construction methods and so on.

I’ve been on the hunt for some ‘pretty’ dress patterns. For casual ‘weekend’ clothes I prefer loose t-shirts, simple dresses, jeans, maxi skirts and so on. However the rest of my wardrobe is work/event/going-out and is quite different and I’ve been looking for dress patterns to refresh that part of my wardrobe.

I started with Vogue 1499, an Anne Klein design. Like many sewers, I’ve drawn to sewing with stripes. The fun you have stripe matching and the way stripes can quite alter your silhouette is endlessly fun.

The dress is described by Vogue as: Lined dress (partially cut on crosswise grain) has fitted bodice, cap sleeves, side-front and side-back seams, pleated skirt, and invisible back zipper. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment.

Vogue 1499, Anne Klein design

Vogue 1499, Anne Klein design. Image from Vogue Patterns

While this double ikat (I think that is what is called when the stripes run both directions) is quite lovely, I think like the Burda shirt, the colour & design is just all wrong for me.

The fabric has been sitting in my stash for a couple of years so I was happy to use it.

The dress bodice and it’s cap sleeves are lined with a cotton lawn and I used bemsilk for the skirt lining. The skirt has separate pattern pieces to the pleated outer skirt and is a loose a-line shape.

I did iron this – however it got slightly crushed in the car driving into town to take some rushed photos after work. Plus I think the seat belt put a huge crease in the front bodice (these are compulsory in Australia). We had to try a few spots in the CBD to escape the ever-present wind at the moment.

What’s not quite right for me

I also think that this design would have looked much better in a smaller stripe. I’ve taken a pattern and sewn it in a very casual fabric and not quite achieved my usual ‘casual’ style or a dressy dress. Such is life!

The fit seemed quite roomy and I ended up having to unpick the neckline, add two back neck darts. The front bodice is still a little large at the neckline.

Vogue 1499, Anne Klein design, back view

I spent some time matching those stripes and was quite pleased with the result! It was a very windy afternoon unfortunately!

The sewn down pleats seem to length my already long torso and I am considering unpicking them.

The waistline, despite all those directional stripes, isn’t as flattering as I hoped. It seems to thicken my waist.

Maybe my shoulders are scrawny but the cap sleeves also seem a little too large.

Vogue 1499, Anne Klein design, front view

My waist seems to go on forever! Not sure if unpicking the sewn-down pleats would help.

Conclusion

It is an easy sew and spending some time, hand sewing some elements results in a really nice finish.

Despite not being my ‘dream dress’, I think it’s a lovely pattern and would be delightful on others. The bodice lines and the nice little bust darts are really lovely.

I think using some solid colour blocking on the side panels, rather than using stripes, could potentially look fabulous combined with a print.

I’ve since made Vogue 8997 and LOVE it so that’s coming to the blog very soon.

Pattern: Vogue 1499
Fabric: Cotton Ikat from Spotlight Australia
Also see: Amanda’s Adventures in Sewing | Pattern Review

Papercut Adrift Dress – a birthday dress

or When You Almost Exactly Copy The Pattern Envelope…

I had this lovely spotty rayon fabric in the stash and while I tried to resist more or less replicating the Papercut Patterns version, I couldn’t resist this pattern/fabric combination. My Grainline Alder Dress was made from the same fabric and has been a much-loved summer dress… so here we are with a new summer dress!

Hello Papercut Adrift Dress

Papercut Adrift Dress - front view

Papercut Adrift Dress – front view

This pattern comes with a skirt and dress variation. Obviously this is the dress. The skirt option has front and back waist darts and a waistband.

Described by Papercut as… A feminine dress for warm summer days. Features include gently ruffled sleeves and hemline, wrap skirt, bust darts and gathered waist with additional wrap skirt option. The wrap-around skirt option features a waistband with front and back darts.

CONSTRUCTION

Very simple. The pieces went together beautifully.

Skirt Construction

I did hit a snag as I traced the pattern pieces and constructed the garment without much (any) reference to the instructions – other than a cursory glance.

When I went to fit the bodice to the skirt, they did not match at all… after a ‘what is wrong with me’ message to ever-helpful Papercut team, it turns out the skirt pattern pieces have darts marked on them but do not indicate it is for the skirt option only.

So if you are a derp-head like me and don’t always reference instructions, then you will hit a snag. Darts are only for the skirt option – this is not indicated on the pattern sheet. Once I unpicked the skirt darts, it went together perfectly.

The instructions (when I did read them) have you attached the flounce/frill to the skirt pieces and then sew the front and back pieces together. I chose to sew the front/back skirt pieces together. Then the flounce pieces together. Then I attached the flounce as one piece to the skirt pieces. I’m sure that one continuous seam doesn’t make ‘that’ much difference to the overall flow of the flounce… but I would prefer to construct the skirt that way.

You do need to do the skirt hem before you attach it to the bodice as the front flounces are sewn into the waist seam. On the bright side, you won’t have a project hanging about that just requires a hem. This one forces you to hem mid project!

Papercut Adrift Dress - back view

Papercut Adrift Dress – back view

Seam Allowances

As the seam allowances are only 1/2 inch, I think it’s best to neaten all your edges before you sew the seams. In some cases the instructions do tell you to overlock before you sew the seam. In other cases not. Having sew a few Papercut Patterns I knew this was a issue and overlocked most things before I sewed the seams. I chose to overlock the skirt/flounce edges together after sewing the seam.

I find overlocking 1/2 inch seams a little more fiddly (after sewing a seam) and the results not as neat as those with a larger seam allowance. Some fabrics might distort while overlocking – so be mindful of that.

Neck facing

The instructions also have you top stitch the neck facing down. I’ve chosen to catch stitch it down at the shoulder seams and this has not been a problem.

Hems

The skirt and sleeve hems are finished with a narrow hem.

Papercut Adrift Dress - side view

Papercut Adrift Dress – side view (just befor birthday lunch at a local vineyard)

Waist tie

I did insert cord as instructed but didn’t like the look.  So I made a thin cord of self fabric instead. I think next time I will try inserting elastic as I prefer as elastic gathers in a skirt at the waist – much more tidy. This would also mean no buttonholes at the waist for the cord.

The cord and fabric cord doesn’t slide as easily and I tend to arrange the gathers to be more evenly spaced.

I also found having a white cord hanging at my waist amongst the flounce at my waist was a bit visually messy. Perhaps with a more patterned/floral fabric, the cord wouldn’t bother me – it all comes down to fabric choice and pattern.

THOUGHTS

I do rather love this.

A fairly simple sew – provided you have patience with attaching curved flounces and rather endless curved narrow hems.

Cute and fun. Feminine without being twee.

I love the sleeve/skirt flounces and the loose fit of the garment.

It’s best suited (in my opinion) for fabrics with some soft drape.

I thought I might add a little to the bodice length next time… I am 5 foot 4 but very long through the torso. Then again, the slightly raised waistline makes my legs look long when I wear heels… might not be such a bad thing? 🙂

Papercut Adrift Dress - sleeves

Papercut Adrift Dress – sleeves

I’m surprised we haven’t seen more of these on blogs and social media, it’s a nice little summer dress.

Oh and it’s the ‘birthday dress’… because I wore it today for the first time, took photos after lunch and it’s my birthday… counts as a birthday dress… yes?

Pattern: Papercut Adrift Dress, XXS
Fabric: Rayon (woven), Spotlight (Australia). Purchased during a clearance sale for $3!
Shoes: Jo Mercer
All purchased by me.

Also see: Carly in Stitches  |  tagged Instagram posts

 

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