London Coat Tessuti Patterns


I always think I’ll make something ‘warm for winter’… and never really do.

Tessuti Patterns London Coat (colour blocked): Yes, it has pockets!

I guess I like to pretend it’s never really winter here 😂. However, I’m kidding myself. We don’t get snow or frosts but we do need a warm coat at night, on our windy cold days or to throw on as the winter sun slides towards the horizon and the temperature starts to drop.

The London Coat by Tessuti Patterns caught my eye – is a great casual unstructured jacket to throw on with weekend jeans or even at home or in the office. Right now, thanks to Covid-19, the spare bedroom is my office!

The description from Tessuti is: “The London Coat is oversized and unlined. The coat front has a 4″ overlap which can be left open or secured with a feature pin, making it the perfect layer for a relaxed autumn/winter style. It features a hood, dropped shoulders and full-length sleeves with turned back cuffs. The horizontal hip seam, with inseam pockets, provides the opportunity for colour blocking. As seams are overlapped and edges and hems left raw, this coat is best made up in boiled wools, felted wools that do not fray when cut.”

Construction

Construction is easy enough, although takes a little patience as you overlap the raw edges and edge stitch the seams. A seemingly endless transfer of pins, you could try to do it all by ‘eye’ however I’m not a fan of unpicking seams, less so of unpicking seams in boiled wool!

Almost all seams are sewn in this overlapped, raw edged manner.
Photo credit: Tessuti Patterns.

While I didn’t use one… a walking foot on boiled wool (as illustrated in the photo above from the Tessuti instructions) is a good idea.

I cut the pieces out with the fabric unfolded, tracing around the pattern pieces with chalk as I find bulkier fabrics annoying to pin. I’m hoping I was frugal enough with my fabric to be able to piece the leftovers into some sort of pullover vest. I actually used the selvedge edge as my hood and front opening edges, the texture was very little different to the rest of the fabric and I liked the clean, consistent edge it provided.

Sizing

I made size 0. My bust is 33 inches. This pattern is for busy 32-48 inches and has a finished hip measurement (including the 4 inch overlap) of 47-59 inches.

It is a very oversized coat, ideal with layering, it can be done up with a fancy lapel or kilt pin, or left to hang open… which is usually what I do!

The Fabric

I’ve used an olive & black boiled wool/viscose blend from Minerva’s Bower. They were so helpful and readily sent me some photos via messenger with the different colours together so I could make up my mind.

I was SO tempted to chose my usual blue/black combination… however since it’s often been said “a change is as good as a holiday”, and since I haven’t had one of those in a LONG time, I opted for olive and black.

Not quite a holiday… however it was a fun sewing project and great casual wear.

Verdict

A great oversized coat or coatigan, soft and slouchy for casual wear, and perfect for layering.

Details

Pattern: London Coat, Tessuti Patterns (hard copy or PDF download)

Fabric: Olive and Black boiled wool/viscose blend from Minvera’s Bower

10 thoughts on “London Coat Tessuti Patterns

  1. Great coat, and great to see you again! (I was just wondering what you were up to. Odd how this happens!) I once had a hooded jacket similar to this that was held closed by ties. Can you simply fold boiled wool and stitch a tie, or do you think it would need some interfacing for structure? (The wheels are spinning! )

    • Good question – and I wondering that myself while I was sewing this! Probably worth using some scraps and seeing how it behaves with interfacing. Depending on your fabric thickness, just doubling over may suffice.

  2. It’s only here that I realised your colour choices. It’s a good combination and suits you well. I love the look of this and I guess that this coat will accompany you a lot of times.
    I am so impressed by your marathon!🏅

  3. Gorgeous coat! Lapped seams look great but they are deceptively tricky to sew, at least for me. Boiled wool is such a lovely fabric though. Welcome back to blogland! ❤️❤️❤️

  4. Gorgeous coat and well done on moving out of your comfort zone for the colour as it looks very classy. I also appreciate the blog post with more details, thank you.

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