TUTU making again

Posted on November 5, 2018 by sewbusylizzy

Nothing much to say about this one.

I made another tutu! It seemed to drag on and on but I finished it eventually.

I just love the giant puffball stage of making these. They are a wrestle to sew but weirdly fun as they materialise under your sewing machine foot!

Tutu – netting plate sewn onto the stretch leotard.

Wondering how that is transformed into a tutu plate? Steam and stitches my friends! My first tutu I used a tagging gun to hold the layers together. This time it felt too ‘fluffy’ so I opted to replace the tags with large tacking style stitches, resulting in a better looking plate. My tagging gun also died on the final round of tagging. It is still a bit wonky but I can probably straighten out that front crease with some more steam. I ran out of time before the eisteddfod!

It wasn’t quite what I envisaged but looked lovely on stage. The contrast of the burgundy, white and gold looked very elegant – and much more grown-up after her last pink, grey & silver tutu.

Zoe on stage in her latest tutu, for a classical interpretation of Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody.

Pattern: Dani Legge’s Stretch Tutu pattern, you can find her on facebook.
Supplies: Lycra from my local independent fabric store. White netting from Spotlight. Crystals from AliExpress. Gold lace trims from Aleemah’s Appliques and Trims. Tiara from local dancewear shop (I’ve accepted there is only so much I can make).

I wrote quite extensively about making a tutu a couple of years ago, you can read those here…. the workshop, embellishing & on stage.

A Tencel Denim Japanese Jumpsuit? Onesie?

Posted on November 4, 2018 by sewbusylizzy

Or that time I channeled my inner denim-clad Gumby…

Japanese Denim Jumpsuit – just mucking around on Photoshop app on my phone one night – better (unfiltered – perhaps not better!) images follow!

I’ve missed just sewing things for the heck of it. Like so many of us, I am very time poor so I had tried to sew sensible/practical stuff to make the most economical of my time spent sewing.

Turns out, for me, that’s a bit of an inspiration killer. So I’ve decided to revert to my former sewing self and sew the things that tickle my fancy or intrigue me. In all honesty I tend to wear my slightly off-kilter garments the most. Plus I sew because it relaxes me, my yoga is sewing. I make no apologies for that.

And lately it was this that intrigued me. Japanese pattern books are back!

Japanese sewing book

I fell in love with this book a few visits ago to Kinokunya (Sydney) and last time I visited, it was still there. So I decided it was meant to be.

Contents of the book – there are up to two variations on every main pattern.

And while there are several very sensible and more practical patterns in this book, the pinstripe jumpsuit captured my interest. So I decided to fly with the idea.

Pinstripe office onesie!

Pattern tracing took me a night, however the alterations and procrastination took me at least another two weeks. Not because they were complicated but I did try to talk myself out of this odd outfit choice and procrastinated over the pattern changes.

Tracing

My favourite thing to trace my patterns with is a product called ‘Trace & Toile’ from Spotlight (Australia). At $20 a 10 metre roll, it is expensive. I wait for a sale and purchase several rolls at $10. I don’t sew as much as I used to, the upside to this is that a roll will see me through many patterns.

Trace & Toile

While it has it faults – pen rubs off a little, heavier to see through – I love the fact I can baste my pattern pieces together to get an idea of fit. This product gives me a better idea than I seem to achieve with tissue paper fitting – and saves me the trials and tribulations (and precious time) a fabric toile can take. It doesn’t replace a fabric toile but if you don’t think you need drastic alterations you can quickly see if more length etc is needed. Long basting stitches slide out easily and I can cut the pattern pieces and sew in strips to lengthen a pattern or fold//sew shortening tucks to modify a pattern. These modifications become a permanent sewn-in element of my finished pattern which I then make the garment from.

Minor Modifications

These Japanese patterns are drafted for someone only slightly taller than me. As mentioned on previous posts, I am proportionally long through the torso and jumpsuits make pattern modifications a necessity as no-one wants to wear – or see – a jumpsuit wedgie!

Book size chart

I added 1 1/2 inches to the crotch depth, this was intentionally longer than needed as I wanted a casual, very loose jumpsuit to wear during summer. I added 1 inch to the bodice – however found this made the waist too low and I removed it, I might even shorten the bodice if I was to make it again. I should have added some length to the legs as well – I turned the hems up with bias binding as the unfinished length was close to perfect.

Japanese Denim Jumpsuit – front view. Note to self: stand up straight!

I added belt loops and a self-fabric belt. I prefer to wear this looped through the belt keepers and then tied at the back, rather than wrapping it around the front. It created a bit of shape without being pulled in against my waist. Very loose and easy to wear.

Japanese Denim Jumpsuit. Proof that I happily share my beach photos with everyone! I have no shame. Windy afternoon as well – less an ideal for photos but such is life.

I would probably insert an invisible zip in the side seams if I was to make it again. It’s a little wriggle to pull it up and over my hips (note to self, not too many yummy Christmas indulgences this year) – a zipper would help.

I do need to wear a singlet or tshirt under it – however I like the overall/jumpsuit mix, one of the things that attracted me to it.

This is made from tencel denim from ‘the stash’ purchased from a bargain table for the grand sum of $5 a metre… or maybe it was $4 a metre. I also squeezed another Tessuti Sadie Slip dress out of this, similar to this dress I blogged over a year ago – which I love!

Japanese Denim Jumpsuit

Agreed. This jumpsuit is a slight crazy garment. I wore it all day today – the best way to assess a garment’s suitability to your lifestyle is to put it ‘through its paces’. It passed the lifestyle test with flying colours. I love it. It’s a bit oddball but quite unique – and exceptionally comfortable. I am also confident I will not be bumping into any other denim-clad Gumby wannabes in the downtown Port Macquarie. So it’s a win-win for me.

Japanese Denim Jumpsuit. I don’t wear it with the belt tied at the front. Too wrinkly, too obvious. I prefer the belt to just pull it in a little at the back. Mad crazy hair – completely natural!

See it in action? Visit Instagram!

Photographed terribly in the late afternoon sunset last weekend, too much glare and the tencel looks shiny. The Instagram images (or Boomerangs) are much more true to the actual garment and you can see me wiggling in an action shot… life is too short to be too serious… and let’s be honest, I don’t pretend to be a high fashion model!

This isn’t going to be everyone’s ‘cup of tea’ – however it’s mine. I appreciate some will hate it. If we all sewed, liked and wore the same style… well… that wouldn’t be terribly interesting would it?

The thought of wearing a pinstripe onesie to work is still very appealing…

Pattern: No.5 from untranslated Japanese pattern book which loosely translates as “7 Basic dresses” – this jumpsuit also includes as a jumper dress option. ISBN 978-4-579-11570-9
Fabric: Tencel polka dot denim, Spotlight Australia

Amy Jumpsuit – Closet Case Patterns

Posted on October 1, 2018 by sewbusylizzy

Amy Jumpsuit, Closet Case Patterns

The Amy Jumpsuit from Closet Case Patterns.

The Pattern

Currently only available as a PDF, there was a lot of excited chatter on social media when it was released. I purchased it as soon as I saw it, which is increasingly rare for me these days. I had been looking for a similar style jumpsuit and since I hadn’t tried a pattern from Closet Case Patterns, I thought… why not?

Described as:

The Amy Jumpsuit is comfort and breezy elegance all in one tidy, minimalist package. With a figure-skimming silhouette and ultra wide, cropped legs, it’s got the soul of a floaty slip dress in the body of a jumpsuit you’ll never want to take off.

Amy features a flattering V-neckline in front and back, with wide shoulder straps designed to conceal bra straps; an invisible side zipper makes it easy to get on and off. Add function with optional inseam pockets, or cinch the waist with a classic tie belt for a more fitted shape.

Yes… I’ve sewn it in exactly the same fabric as my Myosotis Dress – I bought another 3 metres to stash. However it seemed like a good idea to make the Amy in the same fabric so it never hit the stash pile.

Amy Jumpsuit, Pattern by Closet Case Patterns.

Sizing

I decided to sew size 2 based on the advice from Closet Case Patterns of “We also suggest choosing a size based on your bust measurement; there is a lot of ease built into the waist and hip so you probably don’t have to worry about grading between sizes unless you span more than 3 or more sizes between bust and hip.” I’m close to 3 sizes and I didn’t grade between sizes while tracing.. however I did add 1/4in to the outer leg before I cut into my fabric. Call it ‘hip panic’ if you like.

Amy Jumpsuit, back view

I’ve left off the pockets. I don’t often put pockets into fabrics with a soft drape as I’m unlikely to use them as they pull a garment out of line if you put anything in them. I also decided to put in a slightly longer zip as I was concerned about wriggling these up and over my hips. The pattern launch blog post advised: The pattern has optional pockets and a side seam zipper to make it simple to get on and off; we suggest in the instructions doing a quick baste fit if you’re a straight size or narrow hipped because you might find the zipper unnecessary.

I’m glad I did this as I think it would have been a wiggle without the slightly longer zipper and extra width at the hip.

Fitting

I’m quite long through my torso. I added 1/2inch length to the body. I wish I had added more as it is just long enough (I don’t like living in wedgie world when I bend over so prefer a low-slung crotch for these types of garments). I sewed 1/4inch seams at the straps to add a tiny bit more length.

Despite reading the pattern to verify it has 5/8 inch seam allowances, I somehow managed to sew it together with 1/2 inch seam allowances. I am glad I did as this gave me a tiny bit more length.

I haven’t shortened the legs. The pattern is drafted for 5 foot 6 and I am 5 foot 4. I tend to prefer longer garments so I opted for the unaltered longer length leg.

ladylike moments in the Amy Jumpsuit

Thoughts

The pattern has great instructions for attaching the straps and sewing in the invisible zipper and attaching the lining to it. It’s a very neat and clean finish.

Don’t be like me. Sew a muslin/toile if you are long in the torso or wider through the hips, my approach was not smart… just faster and I managed to adjust along the way.

At first I didn’t like this at all, however I’ve worn it all day and it is very comfortable and practical. My daughters like it on me. I don’t think it’s very flattering on me. However that’s never stopped me wearing something on a casual basis! If it’s comfortable and cool, it’s highly likely to become a summer favourite. I think it will be worn unbelted on very hot summer days.

It’s an easy sew.

The front/back neckline is flattering and the wide straps easily conceal bra straps.

The PDF files come with copy shop files, including the essential (for me) A0 option. I would not have purchased it otherwise.

When the waves wash in, I need two hands to lift my hem out of the way… unlike a dress when I only need one hand to save my outfit from a saltwater drenching. Hey, that’s a lifestyle issue for me!

Belt loops, I’d like belt loops. In these photos the belt has slipped to different positions and changes the look of the jumpsuit, making it more or less flattering. I’d just prefer the belt to stay on one place. I might add some thread loops retrospectively… but then again… I probably won’t.

Contemplating how to avoid soggy hems… and my running sock tan lines…

Pattern: Amy Jumpsuit, Closet Case Patterns
Fabric: Jungle Trail Grey, Pitt Trading, 100% viscose.

This post first appeared on www.sewbusylizzy.com

Yesterday I participated in a local running event called Beach to Brother. I ran from the river mouth you can see in the distance to the top of this mountain called North Brother… I only ran the 10km event (you can ran a marathon or half marathon along the beaches before you tackle the mountain)… but the last 2.5kms felt like a marathon to me… so.many.stairs with 500m of elevation – might not sound like much but it was brutal! I may have complained a lot on the way up to the finish line.

North Brother, Laurieton NSW

Deer & Doe Myosotis – grunge edition

Posted on September 2, 2018 by sewbusylizzy

This dress, the Deer & Doe Myositis, has been sewn and seen here, there and everywhere!

Deer & Doe Myosotis – back view

I admit when it was first released, while the loose fit and shirtwaist style appealed to me, the voluminous ruffles did not.

Myosotis Dress #D0029. Version A

The Myosotis is described as: Oversize shirtdress with inseam pockets. Version A has sleeve ruffles and a tiered skirt, version B has plain sleeves and a gathered skirt.

Like many patterns, you might just need to see the right fabric for inspiration to hit.

When I spied this woven viscose at Pitt Trading, I knew I had my Myosotis! It’s more blue/grey in person, and I love the combination of delicate floral and tie dye. It’s understated pretty, you have to look for the detail. I wanted a fabric with plenty of drape so those ruffles swung gently rather than being an overwhelming feature. Interestingly, I sewed my much-loved and worn Deer & Doe Fumeterre skirt in the same fabric in a different colourway!

Jungle trail grey – Pitt Trading. A steal at $5 a metre!

I embraced my inner ruffle beast and opted to sew Version A with the tiered skirt and sleeve ruffles. If you are going to do it – go all the way I say!

I cut the smallest size as I was mid way between size 34 – size 36 for my bust and waist. Given the ease, I choose the smaller size.

Deer & Doe Myosotis – back view

I added an inch to the skirt piece length and was very glad I did! For reference I am 5 foot 4 and it still finishes above my knee. I decided not to add length to the ruffle as I felt it might be too ‘long’ for a ruffle and left it as it was drafted.

I almost left the sleeve ruffles off but in this fabric and print, I actually like them!

Deer & Doe Myosotis Dress in a woven viscose. Sorry I didn’t notice my necklace was hanging out over my dress.

Gathering

Oh my goodness. There is a lot of gathering to do! If you loathe gathering, this may not be the dress pattern for you.

I decided to hem my ruffles before I gathered them and attached them to the skirt and the sleeves.

I also used three rows of gathering stitches as I find this provides the best results for even gathers and ease of sewing.

I use leftover bobbins and spools of thread for my gathering. I always remove my gathering stitcvhes and I find it is a good way to use up those small amounts of cotton that are insufficient for a larger project.

I use leftover bobbins and spools of thread for my gathering. I always remove my gathering stitches and I find it is a good way to use up those small amounts of cotton that are insufficient for a larger project.

I did experiment with gathering with fishing line (zig-zag stitch over fine fishing line as I do for tutu netting) but I don’t recommend it for lighter fabrics such as rayon and viscose. It makes the gathering much messier and harder to control. Never again!

Thoughts

There is a slight dragline from the neckline down towards my bust. I need to consult my fitting books and figure out if I need a forward shoulder adjustment, rounded back or some neckline fix or something else… it’s not terribly obvious but it is there if I look for it and Measure Twice, Cut Once found the same issue with her Myosotis.

I don’t think I have particularly large shoulders however to get this off, I pull it up over my bust and then wiggle it off over my shoulders, even with all the buttons undone. I’d be tempted to put a small zip in the side waist if I make another one to make it a little easier to get in and out of. It doesn’t seem to be a much discussed issue with the pattern, however perhaps my shoulders are proportionally larger than my bust/waist as I have found some RTW dresses difficult to take off for a similar reason.

There is no direction to sew ease stitches to put the sleeves in… so I didn’t and I found they went in first go with no puckers. Winning!

I was concerned this would be a little short and a little too ‘young’ in style for me. However I’m pleasantly surprised by how this has turned out.

I thought it might have a little too much ease and be unflattering… but it turns out I don’t mind how it looks after all.

I think this will be a favourite in my summer wardrobe. Casual, loose, cool to wear and in my favourite colour – what’s not to love!?

And if you are wondering… yes my hair is naturally curly.

Pattern: Deer & Doe Myosotis, size 34
Fabric: Jungle Trail Grey, Pitt Trading. Tempted by buy more…

See more: Instagram

Bonus crazy Banjo shot! It’s perhaps not the most figure flattering but it’s lovely nevertheless.

I often get asked if I get embarrassed having my photos taken at the beach and if I have to ask people to move out of the way. Actually no… we have lots of beaches where I live and you often have long stretches all to yourself. I’m usually at Nobby’s Beach or Lighthouse with my dogs. I run along the strip between Town Beach and Town Green – and beyond to Settlement Point further up the river. I’m very fortunate – you can see a snapshot of my town and beaches here. Yes, it’s really that pretty.

The Tale of Two Turtleneck – Monroe and Fall

Posted on August 31, 2018 by sewbusylizzy

Tessuti Patterns Monroe Turtleneck
vs
Fall Turtleneck Papercut Patterns

On a cold winter day, a snuggly turtleneck holds endless appeal. And this year it has been a cold winter, bitter mornings and colder winds than I’m used to. No bare feet at the beach this winter!

This Aussie winter, Tessuti Fabrics spoilt us with a free pattern – the Monroe turtleneck. It was an obvious choice to try.

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns

The drafting & style of this one reminds me of the pared back & minimalistic Japanese sewing patterns. There is minimal shaping and plenty of ease. I find the neckline to be a little tight and requires a ‘tug’ to pull it over my head. I love the 3/4 sleeve length option.

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns

The length of the body of the Monroe is slightly longer than the Papercut Patterns Fall.

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns. This one has lots of ease – for me.

To contrast, as I already had it in my stash, I also made the Fall Turtleneck from Papercut Patterns. Still a turtleneck with drop shoulders, the Fall however quite a different fit and style to it.

Comparison of the Monroe (left) and Fall (right) armhole and shoulder pattern lines

The armholes and shoulder lines are much more shaped – and as a result, of course, the sleeves also have more shape to their cap and a noticeable ‘front’ and ‘back’ to the sleeve draft.

The neck is much higher and turns over into a delightfully snuggly but not-too-tight turtleneck to ward off those cold winter winds.

Fall Turtleneck – Papercut Patterns

Thoughts

I found both patterns to be quite short in the body – but the Monroe less so. I would have added length to the Papercut Patterns Fall body however I only ‘just’ had enough to cut the Fall pattern. I originally purchased this piece of merino knit to make a Monroe (Monroe requires 120cm, the Fall 130cm).

I need some new jeans – perhaps some of the high waisted variety… will I succumb to the Persephone Pants fever gripping Instagram? I may one day ‘tuck in’ my tops… who knows!

I’ve worn both turtlenecks quite a lot, perhaps the Monroe more due to the longer body length which is better on the cold days. I think I prefer the Fall for it’s heavier neckline and fit. Then again… it is considerably more expensive than the free Monroe!

Merino leftovers – sew a buff!

I did have long thin off-cuts after cutting out both patterns I turned into a ‘winter buffs’. These have been great on cold mornings when I’m out running (running when frost settles is not fun – especially when frost isn’t something you see very often – if ever!). I’ve been surprised how much I’ve used them – who knew that a random tube of fabric was so useful! Check out the YouTube clips on the multiple ways you can wear them.

Patterns: Monroe Turtleneck, Tessuti Patterns (free) & Fall Turtleneck, Papercut Patterns
Fabric: Merino knit, The Fabric Store, Brisbane

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…

TUTU making again

A Tencel Denim Japanese Jumpsuit? Onesie?