Tag Archives: Tessuti

If Romy was a dress

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Romy dress, front view.

It wasn’t exactly what I had in mind… but sometimes you just gotta roll with what you’ve created and make it work. These photos taken on my back deck after a work-from-home day and in the midst of a horrendously disruptive and dusty kitchen demolition project.

I’m extremely weary. Christmas, a very large tree branch landing on my roof and cracking tiles, back to work and a kitchen demolition/renovation … it’s been a hectic few weeks. So if this lacks detail… or fails to make sense… I apologise.

“If Romy Was A Dress” she might have been a Gorman. This dress style is reminiscent of the iconic Australian brand which favours simple dress shapes which let the fabric sing – which are often artist collaborations. Google ‘Gorman Afternoon Tea Dress’ to see what inspired this dress.

The Tessuti Romy Top has been popular as a ‘dress hack‘ and it’s easy to see why. If Lisa’s gorgeous version a few year back wasn’t enough to seduce you – then the floaty summer dresses of late in stores might now.

Inspired by a Gorman dress from a few season ago, when I spied this delicious textural domino check at Minerva’s Bower I jumped at the opportunity to turn an idea buzzing around in my head into reality.

It’s more cream than white ‘in real life’ – link to site provided below.

I had Romy in my stash and had made it in a linen remnant when it was first released. The fit was good and I like how it’s a slip-on top with no zipper/buttons required. Sorry my photo opportunities and blogging is sorely lacking these days!

So I tried on my top, decided where I would like my dress waistline to be and added 1/2 inch seam allowance.

I only lined the bodice as I knew the waist ease would make the skirt voluminous enough.
I hand stitched the lining to the waist seam. I love a tidy finish.

I used the outer bodice pieces as the lining pieces. I lined it with black lawn as the shepherds check is fairly textured and two layers would have added too much structure to the garment which already was going to have significant ease around the waist.

Inspired by the first Romy dress hack, I also used grosgrain ribbon for my shoulder straps. I made this during lockdown so I was just lucky to have some in my ‘stash’ to use.

Romy dress, back view

For the skirt, I used all of the remaining length, cut it in half lengthwise, sewed the two pieces together (selvedge a to selvedge a) and then gathered the full width of the fabric onto the bodice. I hand stitched a tiny hem to get the most out if the fabric length.

A narrow hand-stitched hem.

I wished I’d purchased 2m or slightly more instead of 1.75cm and this would be a tiny bit longer… but hindsight is a wonderful thing and the dress is lovely nevertheless. So after cursing myself for several months… I’ve forgiven it for my Scrooge-like purchasing and have finally decided I like it after all! How the checks met between the bodice and skirt does irritate me a little – but I’m learning to embrace my frugal habits and what comes with them!

If you put your hands on your waist… it doesn’t look quite as roomy as Romy can be!

I’ve well and truly embraced dresses with lots of ease, perfect for humid summer days… and just feeling comfortable and relaxed in, I struggle to imagine reverting to fitted styles now. Perhaps it’s the Covid lockdown, work-from-home lifestyle. Maybe it’s my age. Either way… I’m comfortable and relaxed – and happier.

Romy dress, side view – if you are seeking a waist-enhancing frock… this may not be for you!

Pattern: Romy Top, Tessuti Patterns

Fabric: Domino Check, Minerva’s Bower

The Tale of Two Turtleneck – Monroe and Fall

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Tessuti Patterns Monroe Turtleneck
vs
Fall Turtleneck Papercut Patterns

On a cold winter day, a snuggly turtleneck holds endless appeal. And this year it has been a cold winter, bitter mornings and colder winds than I’m used to. No bare feet at the beach this winter!

This Aussie winter, Tessuti Fabrics spoilt us with a free pattern – the Monroe turtleneck. It was an obvious choice to try.

Monroe - Tessuti Patterns

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns

The drafting & style of this one reminds me of the pared back & minimalistic Japanese sewing patterns. There is minimal shaping and plenty of ease. I find the neckline to be a little tight and requires a ‘tug’ to pull it over my head. I love the 3/4 sleeve length option.

Monroe - Tessuti Patterns

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns

The length of the body of the Monroe is slightly longer than the Papercut Patterns Fall.

Monroe - Tessuti Patterns

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns. This one has lots of ease – for me.

To contrast, as I already had it in my stash, I also made the Fall Turtleneck from Papercut Patterns. Still a turtleneck with drop shoulders, the Fall however quite a different fit and style to it.

Comparison of the Monroe (left) and Fall (right) armhole and shoulder pattern lines

Comparison of the Monroe (left) and Fall (right) armhole and shoulder pattern lines

The armholes and shoulder lines are much more shaped – and as a result, of course, the sleeves also have more shape to their cap and a noticeable ‘front’ and ‘back’ to the sleeve draft.

papercut_fall1

The neck is much higher and turns over into a delightfully snuggly but not-too-tight turtleneck to ward off those cold winter winds.

Fall Turtleneck - Papercut Patterns

Fall Turtleneck – Papercut Patterns

Thoughts

I found both patterns to be quite short in the body – but the Monroe less so. I would have added length to the Papercut Patterns Fall body however I only ‘just’ had enough to cut the Fall pattern. I originally purchased this piece of merino knit to make a Monroe (Monroe requires 120cm, the Fall 130cm).

I need some new jeans – perhaps some of the high waisted variety… will I succumb to the Persephone Pants fever gripping Instagram? I may one day ‘tuck in’ my tops… who knows!

I’ve worn both turtlenecks quite a lot, perhaps the Monroe more due to the longer body length which is better on the cold days. I think I prefer the Fall for it’s heavier neckline and fit. Then again… it is considerably more expensive than the free Monroe!

Merino leftovers – sew a buff!

I did have long thin off-cuts after cutting out both patterns I turned into a ‘winter buffs’. These have been great on cold mornings when I’m out running (running when frost settles is not fun – especially when frost isn’t something you see very often – if ever!). I’ve been surprised how much I’ve used them – who knew that a random tube of fabric was so useful! Check out the YouTube clips on the multiple ways you can wear them.

Patterns: Monroe Turtleneck, Tessuti Patterns (free) & Fall Turtleneck, Papercut Patterns
Fabric: Merino knit, The Fabric Store, Brisbane

Sadie Slip Dress in tencel ‘denim’

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I’ve been daydreaming about a bias slip summer slip dress in denim, maybe I’m stuck in the 90s. I’m ok with that, the music was great!

I guess it seems counterintuitive to sew a bias-cut dress in one of the heavier fabrics in the sewing galaxy. However I simply couldn’t shake this idea and here we are…

Sadie Slip Dress

Sadie Slip Dress, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics

This is the Sadie Slip Dress from Tessuti Fabrics.

I have loved this pattern since its release. If they agree with you, there is nothing more lovely to wear than a bias-cut dress. The way bias fabrics can slide and glide around your body as you move is simply sexy sinuous heaven to wear compared to a dress cut on the straight of grain that ‘hangs’.

Yes you can see my bra straps. No apologies. I intended to wear this over a tshirt but haven’t got around to making it yet. It was such a beautiful winter afternoon I decided ‘what the hell! Let’s blog this dress today!”. How gorgeous is this weather – 20 degrees at 4.30pm in the afternoon. The tshirt can wait (and to be honest… I’ll wear it with my bra straps showing… tsk tsk… #wildchild).

This is a ‘tencel denim’ rather than a traditional denim you use for jeans. Cut on the bias, it has a lovely satisfying weight about it to wear.

A simple summery slip dress. Sadie Slip Dress by Tessuti Fabrics

A simple summery slip dress. Sadie Slip Dress by Tessuti Fabrics. I STILL have my summer tanlines halfway through winter!

Shoestring straps

Turning narrow straps can be frustrating. However if you get your hands on something like the Dritz Tube Turners, life gets much easier. If you are a DIY sort I’m sure you can rustle up a similar set using piping/straws/skewers. I purchased my set after seeing a little twitter clip by Claire-Louise of the Thrifty Stitcher. She shares lots of useful tips and tricks – well worth the ‘follow‘!
I found my set on eBay. This youtube video is gives you a clear idea of the way they work.

Length

I haven’t hemmed this – yet.

Yes I’ve photographed and blogged it anyway as I am a little undecided whether to leave it this length or cut some more off. I find taking photos really helpful to make these decisions. So let’s consider this Sadie ‘a work in progress’.

I cut 4 inches off the length of this pattern before I even cut into my fabric. Rachel of Boo Dogg provided some sage advice about the length of the drafted pattern as she has made this a couple of times (you will find them on instagram, she’s not blogged them).

I’m 5 foot 4 for the record. So if you are about my height you might like to consider adjusting the pattern before you start.

Sadie Slip Dress, back view

Sadie Slip Dress, back view. I’ve use the back darts for additional shaping.

Facing

The instructions have you turn a narrow hem on the edge of the facing. If I was using silk, I probably would do this. As I was sewing in a heavier fabric, I opted to just overlock the edges of my facing to minimise any potential bulk in this area.

I used a suitable interfacing for this fabric, nothing too heavy. I also very carefully understitched the facing… yet the front edges still want to roll out along my bustline (which results in lots of awkward fiddling!). I really wish I had increased to depth of the facing pieces (more like the Odgen cami facings – you can see them in this sewalong post on True Bias. Compared to the Sadie facing pieces seen on this Tessuti blog post) as I think this may go some way to alleviating the tendency of the facings to roll out.

I’m going to stitch the facing sides down as per the Odgen cami construction and maybe try a tiny weight in the centre front of the facing. Fingers crossed.

Sewing with the Bias

Bias is notorious however I’ve never had too much drama sewing garments cut on the bias. I minimise all handling. I gently roll or fold my fabrics up, I never pick them up and hold them up. When I sew, I try to make sure the fabric is not sliding or hanging off the edges of my table. I try to minimise anything that might encourage ‘stretching’.
The Tessuti instructions are excellent and has you use tearaway Vilene to stabilise the neckline. I skipped this, thinking the fabric was reasonably stable and if I was gentle, the neckline should not distort during construction. I was lucky – it didn’t. Perhaps with silk or a similar fabric you might like to consider using Vilene to stabilise the neckline.

This pattern has optional back darts for shaping if you use fabric with less drape than a silk. I have used these darts on this dress.

Thoughts?

I do love this pattern. Great pattern, would make a simple summer dress, a sexy cocktail dress, a slip to wear under sheer dresses, a lovely nightie. Endless possibilities. A good pattern for $10.

The instructions do have you create full flat pattern pieces as you are cutting on the bias. So you may need to consider your paper supplies or pattern paper supplies when getting ready to make this.

Now to cut this off more or leave it be… I think I rather like this between-midi-and-maxi length… but perhaps tomorrow I will think different.

Pattern: Sadie Slip Dress, Tessuti Fabrics.
Size: XXS
Fabric: Floral Tencel Mid Wash, Spotlight Australia

Sadie Slip Dress, back view. Sewn in lightweight tencel denim. Pattern by Tessuti Fabrics

Sadie Slip Dress, back view. Sewn in lightweight tencel denim

Running
Last Monday I ran 18kms in 1 hour 43 minutes after work – just to see if I could. I have increased my distance considerably in the last few weeks – against all sound advice – and fortunately have not injured myself  in the process (yet!).
Then I came down with ‘the flu’ on Tuesday. Less than 2 weeks out from my first half marathon – I was gutted! I’ve recovered reasonably well but think my time might be a bit slower as a result. When it’s your first half marathon, anything is a ‘personal best’ – bonus.
Next weekend I shall be busy:- running and running and running!

Sadie on the way to the beach

Sadie on the way to the beach. Yes it’s winter here. I know. Poor me.

Grainline Driftless and Tessuti Megan Cardigans

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or the Tale of Two Cardigans…

Driftless and Megan Cardigan

Driftless and Megan cardigans

I confess I’m one of those people that decide they want a cardigan and then endlessly obsess over ALL the cardigan patterns. I do this for most garments. I comb through all the independent and Big 4 options. I’ll pour over blog posts, Google images, websites and in-store catalogues. I’ll decide what I want to make and then when I go to pick up the scissors… I’ll change my mind.

While Vogue 8780 continues to be one of my most worn and loved cardigans/jackets, I did want to find another cardigan pattern for a little variety.

I confess that I was luke warm when both the Grainline Driftless Cardigan and the Tessuti  Megan Cardigan were released. Nothing wrong with either, perhaps it’s the simple fact that cardigans are practical garments and it’s hard to get a blood rush about them?

To solve my usual inability to lock myself down to one pattern, I decided to make two different cardigans. I find sewing multiple versions of one pattern or different patterns of a similar garment interesting. Seeing how different fabrics change the same garment or comparing different features and construction of two garments is always interesting to me.

DRIFTLESS CARDIGAN

I’ve always found Grainline patterns to be endlessly wearable. I think Jen designs the perfectly practical, highly wearable designs that always seem to go together without a fuss. I also find her designs fit me well and so I keep returning to her patterns. My three Alder dresses and little linen Morris are some of my favourite things to wear.

Features

The Driftless body is very wide and boxy with dropped shoulders and very fitted sleeves.

The pockets remind me of the Vogue 1247 skirt and are constructed in a similar way – minus all the Hong Kong binding of course! I’ve noticed that these sorts of pockets are popping up in a lot of RTW cardigans this winter in Australia.

Driftless Cardigan - Grainline Studios. Front view.

Driftless Cardigan – Grainline Studios. Front view.

Construction

This is a very easy cardigan to construct – don’t let those pockets fool you. I managed to cut this out and nearly complete it in an evening. It’s largely constructed on the overlocker (serger) with the exception of the pockets, thread chains and hand sewing down the neckband.

Driftless Cardigan - Grainline Studios. Back view.

Driftless Cardigan – Grainline Studios. Back view. I do like how it hangs across my back. I am a definite ‘slouch’ girl.

Thoughts

It’s a bit ‘Sunday afternoon’. Very casual, slouchy and not very dressy. I guess that sounds negative but it’s not at all. Those types of garments have a place in many wadrobes. Can’t be ‘fancy pants’ all the time! While it isn’t my favourite cardigan, it’s been worn a lot anyway as it’s ‘easy’ to wear, the type of garment you grab as you head out the door in case the breeze turns chilly. I don’t think my fabric choice helped. It’s some sort of cotton knit terry fabric… from the bargain table at Spotlight. I think it would be might nicer in a marle, slightly textured, merino knit. It may also be interesting with thoughtful colour choice as a colour-blocked cardigan.

I made view B with the split hem that is slightly lower at the back.

Driftless Cardigan - Grainline Studios. Back view.

Driftless Cardigan – Grainline Studios. Back view.

 

MEGAN CARDIGAN – Tessuti Fabrics

Now this lass and I became instant best friends. I’ve worn Megan a lot. She’s popped up on my Instagram feed quite a few times already. She was impatient and didn’t want to wait to be blogged. She simply screamed ‘WEAR ME – you know you want to’ and so I did.

I honestly had dismissed it as being ‘not for me’ as I had concerns about the fit on me, I thought the shoulders would be too wide and it would swamp me… thanks to the encouragement of Melanie, I decided to give her a try.

I do own several beloved longline RTW merino cardigans. They seem to go with everything from dresses to jeans, casual wear and a stylish office warmer on those chilly air conditioning days. Logically I should have made this cardigan a long time ago, alas I’m not always logical when it comes to my creative pursuits.

Megan Cardigan - Tessuti. Side View

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. Side View

Features

Megan is a very simple cardigan, full length sleeves, flared side seams and a quirky side hem detail.

Megan Cardigan - Tessuti. Back View

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. Back View

Construction

Again a very simple sewing project. Sewn up in no time at all on the overlocker with the shoulder seams having added seam tape to keep them in shape (I also did this with Driftless).

Megan Cardigan - Tessuti. Side View

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. Oh that lovely little side hem detail 🙂 It makes my heart sing.

Thoughts

I adore this cardigan. I’ve received an amazing amount of compliments on it when it’s worn – which I think is the combination of the lovely flare of the hemline and the rather funky fabric that I paired with this pattern. It’s been worn a lot in its short life so far. I guess it also slots perfectly into that grungey casual vibe that I love to wear.

Megan Cardigan - Tessuti. Back View

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. Back View – a nice flare without being overly cumbersome in ‘swooshiness’

The fabric I have had stashed for about three years, waiting for the right pattern as I feared the wrong choice would drop me into tragic acid wash territory. I picked this up at Clear It in Melbourne for the less than princely sum of $4 a metre. It’s certainly not high quality, a simple cotton interlock but it just seems to work with this pattern design.

Megan Cardigan - Tessuti. Side View

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. front view

There will be many more Megans in my wadrobe in the future. The perfect layering cardigan.

ALSO SEE

Driftless: I simply visited Instagram and searched for the hashtag #driftlesscardigan

Megan: Made by Melanie  | Clever Tinker  |  Boo Dogg  |  Rennous oh Glennuss

Not a city girl anymore… Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics

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I expected to love this more… maybe it will grow on me – never say never. I can take a little longer to fall in love or warm to things… so I’m trying to be patient (not one of my finer qualities).

Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics, Australia.

Styled to death 🙂 because that’s how I roll.

This is the Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics. Every other blogger in the southern hemisphere seems to have made this (some multiple times), talked about it, considered making it or read about it – OK I’m exaggerating but that’s how it feels! It will be interesting to see if Sydney fever hits our northern hemisphere friends as their winter approaches.

It’s certainly a different jacket pattern with a fresh take on construction techniques. We all love a challenge, so curiosity might get the better of some bloggers – certainly did me!

I loved it as soon as it was released. It’s got all of the perfect ingredients – a slightly deconstructed feel, modern, perfect for layering, exposed seams and of course… draped. It should be my perfect jacket. I’m Sydney born and bred so this was a sentimental make, I adore Sydney but I have lived on my beautiful coastal patch for nearly 15 years now. Maybe the salt and sand has seduced me after all.

Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics, Australia.

I love the shorter sleeves, it’s very cool layering piece

There are lots of things that I like about this particular style, I love…

  • the short sleeves – it’s ideal for those not so cold days, perfect for layering and accessorising
  • the seam details
  • the pockets
  • the length – I love a longer line jacket for when I’m cruising about, they have a bit of flair and drama about them

I think a slightly heavier or more textured fabric might have worked better. I’m not a massive fan of the curved back yoke on me, I feel a little slumped. The lapels feel massive. Yes, I guess I could have fiddled with them for the photos… but this is how they fall on me so that’s how I left them.

This pattern is available as PDF (and printed) and at $10 for a PDF it’s a competitive price. It also comes with an A0 print shop version… which is often a deal clincher for me. My local Xerox shop prints A0 sheets for about $2.50 each. I really can’t stand sticking together A4 sheets and will avoid it whenever possible. It also comes as a ‘print at home’ file option.

The fabric is Italian cashmere coating from The Fabric Store, Brisbane – I can’t go to Brisbane and not go there, lovely store and lovely staff. This is gorgeous fabric that has a beautiful sheen and feels like liquid. If I don’t even up wearing this, I’m hoping to salvage enough fabric from my leftovers and the jacket itself to make a smaller jacket… I’m going to wait.

Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics

No scarf… BTW I made up the ‘petite’ version of the Sydney.

Despite my bellyaching, I really like this pattern and recommend it if you are a little jaded of traditional jacket patterns – or lining, collars and buttons/zippers scare you. It’s fun and interesting to make. Most of the seams are overlapped by 3/8 inch and you sew down the centre of the overlap. The side seams are sewn in a traditional manner.

Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics, Australia. Construction, the seams

I marked 3/8 inch in from the edge with pins, overlapped the edges and then sewed down the middle. You could choose to mark this with chalk or with thread – or by eye!

The instructions provide lots of photographs which is helpful. However sometimes the text is on one page & the photo is on the next. It’s not a drama it’s just a couple of times I’d find myself looking at a photograph at the top of the page & reading the text underneath… then realising the associated text was on a previous page. It’s just how I read, nothing wrong with the pattern instructions. I just found flicking between pages for one step threw out my rhythm a little.

There are pockets… not in the side seams… and no welts… oh no, you cut through the front of the jacket piece to gain access… yes, that requires a little bit of faith! And yes, more raw edges. The pockets certainly made for an interesting construction step – I love trying and learning new things.

Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics, Australia.

Those lapels swamp me. I didn’t fiddle with them for photos and that is how they fell which I think has to do with the weight of the fabric.

All the edges are raw. So if you hate hems – this is the pattern for you! You do need to keep that in mind when selecting fabric as something that frays will not be suitable. Think boiled/felted wools, neoprene and ponte.

I really enjoyed making this – fun pattern, interesting jacket… Love at first sight doesn’t always happen – how many times have you dreamed of a garment, tried it on RTW and felt slightly deflated? Or felt lukewarm about something and then worn it forever? Well, that happens with sewing as well. This is definitely a case of ‘it’s not you, it’s me’. Great pattern.. perhaps not on me (I feel like the lone blogger *sobs*).

Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics, Australia.

Taking a moment to soak up some warm winter sun.

Sorry can’t type much more – I’m typing like demented drunk monkey as I managed to sew straight through the pad of my left index finger on Friday morning… twice… yes, it hurt and still hurts – a lot. Funnily enough, I was madly stitching down fused (but not cooperative) stars onto my daughter’s ‘superhero’ tshirt (complete with gold net cape – her special power was ‘kindness and generosity’) so she could read her story to the kindergarten class in character that day.Giselle was thrilled (apart from the bleeding and swearing mother element) as the teacher said that if there was a ‘best dressed award’ it would have been her – more exciting because it was all thought out and designed by her. Superhero daughter status… but right now I’m sewing and typing a lot slower for a while!

There are lots of gorgeous version out there to inspire you…

Pattern: Sydney Jacket by Tessuti
Fabric: Cashmere coating, The Fabric Store (Brisbane)
Boots: Flore from Duo, scarf from Metalicus (old fave), beads from Portmans (years ago)

There’s potential for scoring a part-time job as a windsock at least…

Sydney Jacket by Tessuti Fabrics,

A little bit of swooping action… who doesn’t love a dramatic coat?