A double take… Morris Blazer Grainline Studio

Morris was one of those patterns which just seemed to be a guaranteed hit before it was even released. Everyone was talking about it. Instagram and Twitter went a bit barmy on its release. It seems everyone is now madly printing and sewing it. I anticipate our blog feeds will be brimful with blazers! These blazers (yes I made two) are huge queue jumpers. I’ve been working on a vintage muslin and have four other projects in the blog queue. I just wanted to make Morris… so I did!

Morris Blazers

Morris Blazers

The Morris Blazer is the latest release from Grainline Studios. I will admit before I even write anything about Morris that I am a huge Grainline fan. I haven’t made all her patterns but I have made the Maritime Shorts (x 3), Moss Mini (x1), Archer (x1), Hemlock (x1) and Alder (x 3). The Morris Blazer is described by Jen as “The Morris Blazer is the perfect mix of casual and cool. It will quickly become the go-to garment to complete any outfit. With a mixture of drape and structure, bracelet length sleeves, and gentle shawl collar, it looks great dressed up or down. It works up well in fabrics with stretch, making it comfortable on top of everything else!” It’s rated as an advanced beginner and I would agree with that. I made two of these in two days (OK, one evening and one day). Probably the trickiest thing is putting in the shawl collar but it’s not that difficult. Techniques include:  sewing a straight seam, setting sleeves, sewing a shawl collar, facings, and topstitching. I made my first Morris in one of the suggested fabrics: a medium weight ponti style fabric. I have no real idea exactly what is it – it’s been maturing in my stash for about three years. I found it on the Spotlight bargain table for the princely sum of $5 a metre. Anyway, shut up Lizzy and show us some pictures… OK.

Morris Blazer by Grainline Studios

Morris Blazer: Excuse the ‘resting bitch face’. Had zero sleep the night before due to 12-year-old molars! Complete bummer as she never teethed badly as a baby!

Morris Blazer, pattern by Grainline Studios

Side view – sorry that dratted cloud in the background suddenly slid across the sun and we were done for the day. Boo!

The edges of the jacket at the lower front don’t seem to sit quite as smoothly as I would like. The jacket has a front facing, which rolls over to become the shawl collar. I think the texture of the medium weight knit tends to catch against each other or perhaps the body of the interfaced knit is not playing nice with the non-interfaced jacket front – if that makes sense. I’ve been wondering two things… if I lightly interfaced just the front section (where the front facing is) of the front pattern piece if this might alleviate this issue. I wouldn’t interface the entire front of the jacket – just the front portion. The knit properties are very comfortable and I would want to retain that quality. Would the front then have the same structure as the front facing piece and be less likely to collapse against the facing thus creating a smoother jacket front?? I have no idea – but I’m interested to find out. While it’s made from a stretch cotton, my Papercut Patterns Bellatrix blazer has the front facing and front pieces lined… just food for thought. Jen has made a hefty number of these blazers so I’m sure she will have some strong opinions about that! I’m all ears! The only step I got a little confused was Step 15. Most likely because I was tired. Earlier in the process you join the two facing pieces at the back neck. You then fold over the inner edge of the front facing pieces by 1/2in to the wrong side. You join the back and front hem facings and turn their upper edge under by 1/2in. Then you join the facing pieces to the front facing pieces.

Step 15 - Grainline Morris Blazer

Step 15 – Grainline Morris Blazer

This is where I go confused – Step 15. If you are purely a diagram person then you might not get confused – however it wasn’t clear to me that I had to fold the folded inner edge of the front facing back out before I attached the hem facing pieces to the front facing piece. You need to unfold the front facing edge before joining the pieces. Yes, the diagram does say ‘foldline’ but I managed to get confused anyway. I read the words and cross check the diagrams and they didn’t quite click for me. I’m not sure if this is any clearer but I think it better matches the diagram and desired outcome. Step 15: With the right sides together and raw edges aligned, line up the bottom edge of the front hem facing with the bottom edge of the front facing. Stitch the two together starting at the hem edge and stopping at the point where the 1/2″ front hem seam allowance is folded under. Press seam open.” Fortunately it’s about 3 inches of unpicking to rectify. Not a big drama. Maybe it should also say “Unfold the front facing edge. Then with  rights sides together… etc With my curiosity sated about this new much-anticipated pattern, I got thinking and wanted to make another straight away! A LINEN MORRIS

Grainline Studio Morris Blazer - front view

Morris Blazer – front view

Then I just couldn’t get a Morris linen idea out of my head… so I made it despite the fabric not being a stretch. It’s a rayon linen blend with a tiny bit of give. I really should have perhaps sized up or altered the pattern… or been sensible and chosen a jacket pattern designed for non-stretch wovens. Since I’m not altering guru (at all!), I decided to make it, rather than seconding guessing what would happen and trying to counteract it. I’m one of those idiots who learn best by making mistakes and analysing them. This is why I have a fabric stash – to enable excessive amounts of sewing, my imagination and sometimes my idiocy. I decided to underline the back and front pieces with very light white cotton voile. I was concerned about the soft drape of the linen. I choose a very light fusible interfacing for the front/back/sleeve facings and front facing pieces. Interestingly the jacket front doesn’t seem to have the same tension issue around the lower hemline. Whether it this is because the front and facings have the same body due to the interfacing and underlining – or whether it’s just because it’s a woven rather a knit? I’m looking forward to seeing all the other makes.

Morris Blazer - in linen

Morris Blazer in linen – back/side view. Should have rolled that collar over more, should have pulled my top down, should have worn a belt… Oh for a blog stylist. LOL

Overall the jacket sits very nicely and went together without any hiccups. As it is a casual jacket, without shoulder pads interfacing around the upper jacket shoulders etc it does fold slightly as it sits – but I wasn’t after a structured blazer so I don’t mind those features. In fact I’ve always wanted a linen jacket, I love the soft creases they get in the elbows and the gentle worn look they have. I find it very distracting to talk to people wearing linen jackets, or men in great dress shirts (I have a fascination with shirtmaking at the moment), as I have an urge to turn over their button plackets and feel the quality of the fabric. Sorry, I digress.

Morris Blazer

I’m a fiddler. Is it just me – it doesn’t how much you press – you always miss a tiny bit?

While it’s a neat fit, it is comfortable and will definitely be worn. I rather like it. It’s important to note, I don’t have broad shoulders and I couldn’t swing a golf club in this. Fortunately my golfing is limited to living within walking distance of two golf clubs and playing hydro golf with the kids… which I’m not bad at and don’t wear linen jackets to at any rate. All credit to Busy Lizzie who suggested the navy trim when I was pondering the lapel – whether to make it contrast or piped or who knows! A very indecisive morning! It’s just a navy bias binding, sewing to one side and hand stitched down. Thoughts about Morris

  • A fast  and easy jacket pattern – some sewing experience is needed or wait for the sewalong.
  • The instructions are excellent (except for possibly Step 15, although it could just be me! I read this Morris  blog post by Saturday Night Stitch and wondered if it was the same step that tripped me up.
  • Fabric choice is important.
  • The sleeves are short. I like this feature as I tend to roll up my sleeves – or shove them up my arms in the most untidy fashion.

Note: I would not recommend making this jacket in linen or a non-woven. It’s not designed for it and I respect for Jen’s knowledge and pattern drafting skills (I just like experimenting). The linen jacket works for me – but perhaps not for everyone.

Pattern: Grainline Studios, Morris Blazer. PDF purchased.
Fabric: First version: medium weight ponti style knit and a  linen rayon blend from Lincraft (purchased at a 50% off sale). All purchased by me.
Size made: 0 (my measurements: 32 bust and 25 waist)
Construction: Sewing machine and seams neatened on the serger/overlocker.

Also see: Crafting a Rainbow | Saturday Night Stitch

WordPress editing mode is impossibly slow tonight – I can’t write any more as it takes several minutes for a line to appear. No more words possible.

72 thoughts on “A double take… Morris Blazer Grainline Studio

  1. Wowza!! Your blazers are amazing! I love the linen one with the navy trim! and yes! Step 16 is the bit I struggled with too! I honestly put it down to the fact that I am still an intermediate beginner – but yes I thought the seam allowances had to remain folded under too. Glad to hear that it wasnt me having a senior moment. 😉

    • No seniors’ moment. I often don’t following instructions any more but I tend to with Grainline patterns as the instructions are excellent and I often learn something new or the finish is improved. In this case I think there is just a sentence missing 🙂

  2. I love these jackets! Part of it is you, you are always amazing, but I really can’t imagine a bad version of this jacket. I’m almost finished with my first, and would have finished last night had I not gotten tripped up at step 15. I may not have gotten tripped up if I weren’t so sleepy, but it was clear I had to call it a night!

    • Thank you – when I went to sew the facings onto the jacket and they didn’t quite fit – I kept thinking “I must have misunderstood a step as there is no way Grainline has stuffed up in the drafting” I agree, it’s a lovely pattern – I keep thinking about what else I could make it in!

  3. Awesome! I’m going to take pics of my Morris today, and hopefully post soon – I think you are right, there are going to be a heap of these popping up quickly! Mine is a medium/light ponte, and I ended up topstitching the lapel facings to the jacket because it couldn’t get them to sit right. I wodter if my tricot interfacing was a bit heavy for the fabric? Like you, I’ll be making more, so it’ll be fun to investigate!

    • I think if you interface some of the fronts so the fabric at the front doesn’t sag as any knit is prone to do. The facing has some structure and I think the outer shell might need it as well – in some types of fabric. My linen one doesn’t suffer any issues at all.

  4. This looks like such a perfect little jacket for a southeast Queensland Winter (which is where I grew up and I’m imagining is not to dissimilar to where you are). The ponte sounds so comfortable and wearable, in a smart little style. I love the look of the linen too though. Sorry to hear the news on the molars…teeth hurt!!! And thank you for the photos x

    • Hi Debbie – I’ve worn both jackets this week. I do love the linen one the most – and yes perfect for my climate… although today the weather is dreadful and I need a raincoat 😦

  5. Your Morris Blazers are awesome! so cute! Thanks for talking about Step 15 – I’m still trying to figure it out and I’m on my second muslin. I’ll be referring to your explanation for some help this time.

  6. Your blazers are so cute and they fit you perfectly! I haven’t tried the pattern yet, but am inspired by your linen version especially – a perfect weight to wear over something on a coolish spring/summer day? Thanks for the tip on step fifteen…always good to know these things in advance…

  7. I’m so excited to see your versions pop up so quickly! I’m sure we’ll be seeing many more to come over the next few weeks. 🙂 I love the print you chose for your linen jacket – just beautiful. And that bias trim along the lapel is brilliant! It really elevates the blazer and gives it a little something special. I might steal this idea!

    • I’ve had that linen for ages. I want to get a little more and make a dress too. Blue flowers are not that common in printed fabric – I never understand why, it’s a magic combination.

  8. I love your jackets and sense of adventure. The navy bias trim looks fab on the linen version. Thanks for sewing, photographing & blogging so quickly. I’m still pondering if this blazer is for me…

  9. I love both versions! But that floral with the navy binding is just divine. You look gorgeous in both versions. I think I might have the make this for winter.

  10. I’m about to use some very stable ponte for a M6844 cardi, you are making me second guess my pattern choice…..might have to go and fondle the fabric a bit more to decide!

    • The biggest difference between the two is whether you want a peplum or not. Ponte on the McCalls does make for a nice flared peplum which is quite flattering. Helen of Funkbunny & Lara of Thornberry are both making ponte Morris blazers -maybe check those out before you decide.

      • I like the non-peplum version, but I think I want a longer cardi so will go with the mccalls. Gillian at Crafting a rainbow has done a fun spotty Morris in ponte too.

  11. Ohh, some good feedback tips in here 😀 As a broad shouldered lady this is great to know!
    I love the piping on the linen (it looks fabulous!) and the point is casual awesome. Double win!

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  13. Fantastic! These both look great on you! It’s such a quick, satisfying sew! I have the same issue with a bit of dragging at the front hemline. My suspicion is that it’s because I used heavy knits for both versions (neoprene and ponte) and the weight of the fabric is making the facing sag. Or maybe I should just go back and trim a bit from the facing to account for the larger turn of cloth at the hemline (since the fabric is so thick)?

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    • Thanks Gail! I think everyone wants to make a ponte jacket but I suspect the sagging front may be a common issue for a lot of knits. It’s great for a simple jacket – I think cotton sateen with a bit of stretch would be great. Or linen with a bit of stretch. It’s a lovely little pattern – a really satisfying sew.

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  17. Love, love, LOVE these jackets! Such a perfectly divine wardrobe addition. Now, I just need my sewjo back so I can make one too!
    I didn’t feel like sewing today so I bought shoes 😀

  18. Both are beautiful blazers! I’m a bit like you in that I don’t like to alter anything and love to experiment.

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  20. Hey wanted to drop in to say thank your for clarifying Step 15. I thought I was a diagram person, but I was so confused! You cleared it up though, so thanks! Love your Morris-es!

  21. Thank you so much for posting about Step 15! I certainly got confused when I first tried to match up the edges while making my first Morris Blazer. I love your Morrises. In fact, your floral one looks a bit like my floral one!

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  26. I love your Morris Blazers! my favorite is the floral linen. I made mine in olive green with leather sleeves. It is easy to sew (I also got confused of the folding in the facing though) and it is very stylish. Nice blazer to have in your closet 🙂

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