Beachy Tessuti Ophelia Dress

Posted on January 27, 2024 by sewbusylizzy

When the Tessuti Ophelia dress pattern was released this Monday, I immediately thought of this long-stashed blue printed linen.

So in no time, the pattern was purchased, downloaded, printed and traced. The linen was prewashed and I sewed this up in short sewing sessions over several evenings and finished on Friday (public holiday here).

Pattern purchased ✅ fabric ready to go ✅

I’m still wearing the Tessuti Claudia I made in 2018 – and have made three more since! My wardrobe is in need of a refresh and while I am much more mindful of overconsumption in all forms, I do feel a couple of new sundresses wouldn’t go astray! While I adore the Tessuti Claudia for hot summer days, I had been procrastinating between a number of other styles as I wanted a different easy-wearing summer style, and I’d been procrastinating between the Tessuti Annie, Sewhouse7 Sauvie and Ready to Sew Paloma. However when Tessuti posted a teaser on instagram about a soon-to-be-released pattern, I decided to wait and see if it was just what I had been looking for.

Description from the Tessuti website: The Ophelia Dress is the ultimate sundress designed for warm days and balmy nights. It is fitted above the bust with bust darts and wide, comfortable shoulder straps and neckband; subtly shaped at the waist and gently flared to the midi-length hem. Topstitching highlights the button through front; stitched down, inseam pockets; centre back seam and wide hem.”

Sizes 6 to 22 are available, bust 32-48inches, hip 36-52 inches.

I opted for A0 printing (2 sheets) because I hate sticking small sheets together!

Line drawing from Tessuti website. I really love the pocket construction.

Thoughts

I suspect the Ophelia may be a pattern repeater for me. The loose shaped fit, pockets, well suited to linen… a perfect Aussie sundress. Sometimes I fall in love immediately with wearing a new style, some times it is a slow burn. Let’s wait and see!

Tessuti Ophelia: a cloudy but very hot humid day.

The front button bands are not interfaced. The top band is – depending on your fabric choice you may want to consider lightly interfacing the band… as there are a lot of buttons and buttonholes!

I have found my bra straps can slightly show, that may depend on your bra style of course.

I graded from 8 at the bust to 10 at the hip as per my measurements. I found the fit good and opted not to shorten the pattern (I’m 5 foot 3 for reference).

I had these buttons (gifted by my lovely friend Jen) and they were a great match. They were four-hole buttons so no machine sewing them on… I found handing sewing the buttons on to be the most tedious, time consuming element.

I confess, I’m tempted to try another in a solid colour linen… or stripes…. maybe a check…

Button testing…. I could not believe I had such a great match in my stash. Note: this is before I sewed the buttonholes.

Thanks for reading!

Pattern: Tessuti Ophelia Dress, PDF download, sizes 6-22.

Fabric: printed linen, The Fabric Store (years ago sorry!)

If Romy was a dress

Posted on January 10, 2022 by sewbusylizzy

It wasn’t exactly what I had in mind… but sometimes you just gotta roll with what you’ve created and make it work. These photos taken on my back deck after a work-from-home day and in the midst of a horrendously disruptive and dusty kitchen demolition project.

I’m extremely weary. Christmas, a very large tree branch landing on my roof and cracking tiles, back to work and a kitchen demolition/renovation … it’s been a hectic few weeks. So if this lacks detail… or fails to make sense… I apologise.

“If Romy Was A Dress” she might have been a Gorman. This dress style is reminiscent of the iconic Australian brand which favours simple dress shapes which let the fabric sing – which are often artist collaborations. Google ‘Gorman Afternoon Tea Dress’ to see what inspired this dress.

The Tessuti Romy Top has been popular as a ‘dress hack‘ and it’s easy to see why. If Lisa’s gorgeous version a few year back wasn’t enough to seduce you – then the floaty summer dresses of late in stores might now.

Inspired by a Gorman dress from a few season ago, when I spied this delicious textural domino check at Minerva’s Bower I jumped at the opportunity to turn an idea buzzing around in my head into reality.

It’s more cream than white ‘in real life’ – link to site provided below.

I had Romy in my stash and had made it in a linen remnant when it was first released. The fit was good and I like how it’s a slip-on top with no zipper/buttons required. Sorry my photo opportunities and blogging is sorely lacking these days!

So I tried on my top, decided where I would like my dress waistline to be and added 1/2 inch seam allowance.

I only lined the bodice as I knew the waist ease would make the skirt voluminous enough.

I hand stitched the lining to the waist seam. I love a tidy finish.

I used the outer bodice pieces as the lining pieces. I lined it with black lawn as the shepherds check is fairly textured and two layers would have added too much structure to the garment which already was going to have significant ease around the waist.

Inspired by the first Romy dress hack, I also used grosgrain ribbon for my shoulder straps. I made this during lockdown so I was just lucky to have some in my ‘stash’ to use.

For the skirt, I used all of the remaining length, cut it in half lengthwise, sewed the two pieces together (selvedge a to selvedge a) and then gathered the full width of the fabric onto the bodice. I hand stitched a tiny hem to get the most out if the fabric length.

I wished I’d purchased 2m or slightly more instead of 1.75cm and this would be a tiny bit longer… but hindsight is a wonderful thing and the dress is lovely nevertheless. So after cursing myself for several months… I’ve forgiven it for my Scrooge-like purchasing and have finally decided I like it after all! How the checks met between the bodice and skirt does irritate me a little – but I’m learning to embrace my frugal habits and what comes with them!

If you put your hands on your waist… it doesn’t look quite as roomy as Romy can be!

I’ve well and truly embraced dresses with lots of ease, perfect for humid summer days… and just feeling comfortable and relaxed in, I struggle to imagine reverting to fitted styles now. Perhaps it’s the Covid lockdown, work-from-home lifestyle. Maybe it’s my age. Either way… I’m comfortable and relaxed – and happier.

Romy dress, side view – if you are seeking a waist-enhancing frock… this may not be for you!

Pattern: Romy Top, Tessuti Patterns

Fabric: Domino Check, Minerva’s Bower

The Tale of Two Turtleneck – Monroe and Fall

Posted on August 31, 2018 by sewbusylizzy

Tessuti Patterns Monroe Turtleneck
vs
Fall Turtleneck Papercut Patterns

On a cold winter day, a snuggly turtleneck holds endless appeal. And this year it has been a cold winter, bitter mornings and colder winds than I’m used to. No bare feet at the beach this winter!

This Aussie winter, Tessuti Fabrics spoilt us with a free pattern – the Monroe turtleneck. It was an obvious choice to try.

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns

The drafting & style of this one reminds me of the pared back & minimalistic Japanese sewing patterns. There is minimal shaping and plenty of ease. I find the neckline to be a little tight and requires a ‘tug’ to pull it over my head. I love the 3/4 sleeve length option.

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns

The length of the body of the Monroe is slightly longer than the Papercut Patterns Fall.

Monroe – Tessuti Patterns. This one has lots of ease – for me.

To contrast, as I already had it in my stash, I also made the Fall Turtleneck from Papercut Patterns. Still a turtleneck with drop shoulders, the Fall however quite a different fit and style to it.

Comparison of the Monroe (left) and Fall (right) armhole and shoulder pattern lines

The armholes and shoulder lines are much more shaped – and as a result, of course, the sleeves also have more shape to their cap and a noticeable ‘front’ and ‘back’ to the sleeve draft.

The neck is much higher and turns over into a delightfully snuggly but not-too-tight turtleneck to ward off those cold winter winds.

Fall Turtleneck – Papercut Patterns

Thoughts

I found both patterns to be quite short in the body – but the Monroe less so. I would have added length to the Papercut Patterns Fall body however I only ‘just’ had enough to cut the Fall pattern. I originally purchased this piece of merino knit to make a Monroe (Monroe requires 120cm, the Fall 130cm).

I need some new jeans – perhaps some of the high waisted variety… will I succumb to the Persephone Pants fever gripping Instagram? I may one day ‘tuck in’ my tops… who knows!

I’ve worn both turtlenecks quite a lot, perhaps the Monroe more due to the longer body length which is better on the cold days. I think I prefer the Fall for it’s heavier neckline and fit. Then again… it is considerably more expensive than the free Monroe!

Merino leftovers – sew a buff!

I did have long thin off-cuts after cutting out both patterns I turned into a ‘winter buffs’. These have been great on cold mornings when I’m out running (running when frost settles is not fun – especially when frost isn’t something you see very often – if ever!). I’ve been surprised how much I’ve used them – who knew that a random tube of fabric was so useful! Check out the YouTube clips on the multiple ways you can wear them.

Patterns: Monroe Turtleneck, Tessuti Patterns (free) & Fall Turtleneck, Papercut Patterns
Fabric: Merino knit, The Fabric Store, Brisbane

Sadie Slip Dress in tencel ‘denim’

Posted on June 25, 2017 by sewbusylizzy

I’ve been daydreaming about a bias slip summer slip dress in denim, maybe I’m stuck in the 90s. I’m ok with that, the music was great!

I guess it seems counterintuitive to sew a bias-cut dress in one of the heavier fabrics in the sewing galaxy. However I simply couldn’t shake this idea and here we are…

Sadie Slip Dress, pattern by Tessuti Fabrics

This is the Sadie Slip Dress from Tessuti Fabrics.

I have loved this pattern since its release. If they agree with you, there is nothing more lovely to wear than a bias-cut dress. The way bias fabrics can slide and glide around your body as you move is simply sexy sinuous heaven to wear compared to a dress cut on the straight of grain that ‘hangs’.

Yes you can see my bra straps. No apologies. I intended to wear this over a tshirt but haven’t got around to making it yet. It was such a beautiful winter afternoon I decided ‘what the hell! Let’s blog this dress today!”. How gorgeous is this weather – 20 degrees at 4.30pm in the afternoon. The tshirt can wait (and to be honest… I’ll wear it with my bra straps showing… tsk tsk… #wildchild).

This is a ‘tencel denim’ rather than a traditional denim you use for jeans. Cut on the bias, it has a lovely satisfying weight about it to wear.

A simple summery slip dress. Sadie Slip Dress by Tessuti Fabrics. I STILL have my summer tanlines halfway through winter!

Shoestring straps

Turning narrow straps can be frustrating. However if you get your hands on something like the Dritz Tube Turners, life gets much easier. If you are a DIY sort I’m sure you can rustle up a similar set using piping/straws/skewers. I purchased my set after seeing a little twitter clip by Claire-Louise of the Thrifty Stitcher. She shares lots of useful tips and tricks – well worth the ‘follow‘!
I found my set on eBay. This youtube video is gives you a clear idea of the way they work.

Length

I haven’t hemmed this – yet.

Yes I’ve photographed and blogged it anyway as I am a little undecided whether to leave it this length or cut some more off. I find taking photos really helpful to make these decisions. So let’s consider this Sadie ‘a work in progress’.

I cut 4 inches off the length of this pattern before I even cut into my fabric. Rachel of Boo Dogg provided some sage advice about the length of the drafted pattern as she has made this a couple of times (you will find them on instagram, she’s not blogged them).

I’m 5 foot 4 for the record. So if you are about my height you might like to consider adjusting the pattern before you start.

Sadie Slip Dress, back view. I’ve use the back darts for additional shaping.

Facing

The instructions have you turn a narrow hem on the edge of the facing. If I was using silk, I probably would do this. As I was sewing in a heavier fabric, I opted to just overlock the edges of my facing to minimise any potential bulk in this area.

I used a suitable interfacing for this fabric, nothing too heavy. I also very carefully understitched the facing… yet the front edges still want to roll out along my bustline (which results in lots of awkward fiddling!). I really wish I had increased to depth of the facing pieces (more like the Odgen cami facings – you can see them in this sewalong post on True Bias. Compared to the Sadie facing pieces seen on this Tessuti blog post) as I think this may go some way to alleviating the tendency of the facings to roll out.

I’m going to stitch the facing sides down as per the Odgen cami construction and maybe try a tiny weight in the centre front of the facing. Fingers crossed.

Sewing with the Bias

Bias is notorious however I’ve never had too much drama sewing garments cut on the bias. I minimise all handling. I gently roll or fold my fabrics up, I never pick them up and hold them up. When I sew, I try to make sure the fabric is not sliding or hanging off the edges of my table. I try to minimise anything that might encourage ‘stretching’.
The Tessuti instructions are excellent and has you use tearaway Vilene to stabilise the neckline. I skipped this, thinking the fabric was reasonably stable and if I was gentle, the neckline should not distort during construction. I was lucky – it didn’t. Perhaps with silk or a similar fabric you might like to consider using Vilene to stabilise the neckline.

This pattern has optional back darts for shaping if you use fabric with less drape than a silk. I have used these darts on this dress.

Thoughts?

I do love this pattern. Great pattern, would make a simple summer dress, a sexy cocktail dress, a slip to wear under sheer dresses, a lovely nightie. Endless possibilities. A good pattern for $10.

The instructions do have you create full flat pattern pieces as you are cutting on the bias. So you may need to consider your paper supplies or pattern paper supplies when getting ready to make this.

Now to cut this off more or leave it be… I think I rather like this between-midi-and-maxi length… but perhaps tomorrow I will think different.

Pattern: Sadie Slip Dress, Tessuti Fabrics.
Size: XXS
Fabric: Floral Tencel Mid Wash, Spotlight Australia

Sadie Slip Dress, back view. Sewn in lightweight tencel denim

Running
Last Monday I ran 18kms in 1 hour 43 minutes after work – just to see if I could. I have increased my distance considerably in the last few weeks – against all sound advice – and fortunately have not injured myself in the process (yet!).
Then I came down with ‘the flu’ on Tuesday. Less than 2 weeks out from my first half marathon – I was gutted! I’ve recovered reasonably well but think my time might be a bit slower as a result. When it’s your first half marathon, anything is a ‘personal best’ – bonus.
Next weekend I shall be busy:- running and running and running!

Sadie on the way to the beach. Yes it’s winter here. I know. Poor me.

Grainline Driftless and Tessuti Megan Cardigans

Posted on June 14, 2016 by sewbusylizzy

or the Tale of Two Cardigans…

Driftless and Megan cardigans

I confess I’m one of those people that decide they want a cardigan and then endlessly obsess over ALL the cardigan patterns. I do this for most garments. I comb through all the independent and Big 4 options. I’ll pour over blog posts, Google images, websites and in-store catalogues. I’ll decide what I want to make and then when I go to pick up the scissors… I’ll change my mind.

While Vogue 8780 continues to be one of my most worn and loved cardigans/jackets, I did want to find another cardigan pattern for a little variety.

I confess that I was luke warm when both the Grainline Driftless Cardigan and the Tessuti Megan Cardigan were released. Nothing wrong with either, perhaps it’s the simple fact that cardigans are practical garments and it’s hard to get a blood rush about them?

To solve my usual inability to lock myself down to one pattern, I decided to make two different cardigans. I find sewing multiple versions of one pattern or different patterns of a similar garment interesting. Seeing how different fabrics change the same garment or comparing different features and construction of two garments is always interesting to me.

DRIFTLESS CARDIGAN

I’ve always found Grainline patterns to be endlessly wearable. I think Jen designs the perfectly practical, highly wearable designs that always seem to go together without a fuss. I also find her designs fit me well and so I keep returning to her patterns. My three Alder dresses and little linen Morris are some of my favourite things to wear.

Features

The Driftless body is very wide and boxy with dropped shoulders and very fitted sleeves.

The pockets remind me of the Vogue 1247 skirt and are constructed in a similar way – minus all the Hong Kong binding of course! I’ve noticed that these sorts of pockets are popping up in a lot of RTW cardigans this winter in Australia.

Driftless Cardigan – Grainline Studios. Front view.

Construction

This is a very easy cardigan to construct – don’t let those pockets fool you. I managed to cut this out and nearly complete it in an evening. It’s largely constructed on the overlocker (serger) with the exception of the pockets, thread chains and hand sewing down the neckband.

Driftless Cardigan – Grainline Studios. Back view. I do like how it hangs across my back. I am a definite ‘slouch’ girl.

Thoughts

It’s a bit ‘Sunday afternoon’. Very casual, slouchy and not very dressy. I guess that sounds negative but it’s not at all. Those types of garments have a place in many wadrobes. Can’t be ‘fancy pants’ all the time! While it isn’t my favourite cardigan, it’s been worn a lot anyway as it’s ‘easy’ to wear, the type of garment you grab as you head out the door in case the breeze turns chilly. I don’t think my fabric choice helped. It’s some sort of cotton knit terry fabric… from the bargain table at Spotlight. I think it would be might nicer in a marle, slightly textured, merino knit. It may also be interesting with thoughtful colour choice as a colour-blocked cardigan.

I made view B with the split hem that is slightly lower at the back.

Driftless Cardigan – Grainline Studios. Back view.

MEGAN CARDIGAN – Tessuti Fabrics

Now this lass and I became instant best friends. I’ve worn Megan a lot. She’s popped up on my Instagram feed quite a few times already. She was impatient and didn’t want to wait to be blogged. She simply screamed ‘WEAR ME – you know you want to’ and so I did.

I honestly had dismissed it as being ‘not for me’ as I had concerns about the fit on me, I thought the shoulders would be too wide and it would swamp me… thanks to the encouragement of Melanie, I decided to give her a try.

I do own several beloved longline RTW merino cardigans. They seem to go with everything from dresses to jeans, casual wear and a stylish office warmer on those chilly air conditioning days. Logically I should have made this cardigan a long time ago, alas I’m not always logical when it comes to my creative pursuits.

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. Side View

Features

Megan is a very simple cardigan, full length sleeves, flared side seams and a quirky side hem detail.

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. Back View

Construction

Again a very simple sewing project. Sewn up in no time at all on the overlocker with the shoulder seams having added seam tape to keep them in shape (I also did this with Driftless).

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. Oh that lovely little side hem detail 🙂 It makes my heart sing.

Thoughts

I adore this cardigan. I’ve received an amazing amount of compliments on it when it’s worn – which I think is the combination of the lovely flare of the hemline and the rather funky fabric that I paired with this pattern. It’s been worn a lot in its short life so far. I guess it also slots perfectly into that grungey casual vibe that I love to wear.

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. Back View – a nice flare without being overly cumbersome in ‘swooshiness’

The fabric I have had stashed for about three years, waiting for the right pattern as I feared the wrong choice would drop me into tragic acid wash territory. I picked this up at Clear It in Melbourne for the less than princely sum of $4 a metre. It’s certainly not high quality, a simple cotton interlock but it just seems to work with this pattern design.

Megan Cardigan – Tessuti. front view

There will be many more Megans in my wadrobe in the future. The perfect layering cardigan.

ALSO SEE

Driftless: I simply visited Instagram and searched for the hashtag #driftlesscardigan

Megan: Made by Melanie | Clever Tinker | Boo Dogg | Rennous oh Glennuss

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…

Tag Archives: Tessuti

Beachy Tessuti Ophelia Dress

If Romy was a dress

The Tale of Two Turtleneck – Monroe and Fall

Tessuti Patterns Monroe Turtleneck
vs
Fall Turtleneck Papercut Patterns

Thoughts

Merino leftovers – sew a buff!

Sadie Slip Dress in tencel ‘denim’

Length

Grainline Driftless and Tessuti Megan Cardigans

Tessuti Patterns Monroe Turtleneck vs Fall Turtleneck Papercut Patterns

Thoughts

Merino leftovers – sew a buff!

Length

Tessuti Patterns Monroe Turtleneck
vs
Fall Turtleneck Papercut Patterns