Jeans in June/July

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Jeans in June & July 2014

Jeans in June & July 2014

I know! I disappeared! Life has a habit of swallowing me up – especially in 2014. My schedule seems to have taken on a life of its own and I seem to spend much of my time trying to wrestle it into submission.

JEANS IN JUNE & JULY 2014

Yes still happening! I must have sensed an impeding ‘life’ speed humps when I set a two-month deadline to sew some jeans!

When I posted the Jeans challenge a few weeks ago – several people put their hands up – no pressure if your life has swallowed you up, but here were the interested bloggers!

Now if I’ve missed you – or you want to join in – let me know via comments or email to sewbusylizzy at gmail (dot) com.

Flickr: Yes, it decided to play nice & I’ve just set up a Jeans in June & July group that you can post pictures into (or get the blog button from).

Instagram & twitter: #jeansjj

Blog Buttons: Right click and save the image – or copy the html from Flickr (use the share button – if you get stuck, please contact me.

MY JEANS CHALLENGE?

I’ve been stitching up the Named Jamie Jeans (when the schedule permits) and am pleased to report that I only have the belt keepers, waistband and hems to do… I did most of the stitching over a weekend – it’s not as intense as I thought!

Jamie progress shot

Jamie progress shot

I’m less pleased to report I don’t think this pattern is for me – great pattern but it’s just not SBL style – but that’s for another a post just for Jamie.

Despite me not being ‘in love’ with the fit of these jeans, I am delighted to report that sewing jeans – ain’t that hard… so don’t be afraid – just grab some denim and give them a go!

JEANS IN THE WILD
Get inspired by the gorgeous Simple Skinny Jeans by Sew Liberated by the always stunning Jolies Bobines.

 

OTHER SEWBUSYLIZZY NEWS
This weekend I decided I just could not handle the mess in the sewing room – and tackled it… I spent hours folding fabric… but it’s improving… patterns next!

Here’s just some of it… my sateens, poplins, linens and yes… denim… told you I liked it!

Sewing Room Fabric Stash June 2014

Sewing Room Fabric Stash June 2014

Papercut Patterns Bellatrix and Jeans in June

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JEANS IN JUNE & JULY

I’ve been busting to write this post & suddenly nearly half a year has zoomed by… and hello? It’s June??

I wear jeans a lot – I’ve often written about my love of denim… there is no such thing as too much in my opinion. They regularly pop up in my posts…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns

me in jeans… and on the beach… again… yes that’s a new jacket… a Bellatrix… keep reading…

I’d set myself a deadline to sew Jeans in June. As I’ve got so much on my schedule, I’ve decided to be kind to myself – and you! – and launch a Jeans in June & July Challenge!

Jeans seem to be the ultimate sewing challenge for so many people – and I’m arrogantly convinced they ain’t that hard, I just need a reason to take them on (yes I’m now waiting to fall flat on my face – pride cometh before the fall, blah, blah, blah).

So here’s my Jeans in June & July Challenge pledge. I’ll stitch up Named Patterns Jamie Jeans… and Angela Wolf Bootcut Jeans. I’m committed – I’ve even got a real ‘clapper’! Once I decided this must be done… Stitch 56 popped up with a 20% off special so I went bananas and purchased the Angela Wolf pattern (because I love the back of these jeans – they look potentially awesome), the DVD and a clapper – which is apparently the bees’ knees for pressing seams…

Angela Wolf pattern, DVD & clapper

Angela Wolf pattern, DVD & clapper – I don’t know what I was thinking with the DVD I rarely have time to sit still for that long!

I’d love to tell you I’m a jeans guru… although I’ve dedicated my life to wearing them, I’m sorry to say that I’m a novice jeans-maker, so bear with me! And you know, feel free to laugh at me if needed!

I think the spirit of this challenge is to muck in together and heave ourselves up the jeans mountain!

I’m making up a blog button – check back here soon… and I’ll keep you updated on my progress, I’ll review the Angela Wolf pattern & DVD… and watch this space… and GingerMakes is joining the charge! Are you?

So are you up for Jeans in June & July? What will you sew?

Tag your Twitter & Instagram with #JeansJJ
Sorry I’ve abandoned Flickr for tonight – apart from the weirdos it attracts, you now need a Yahoo account… seriously Flickr? I can live without you. I will set up a group for the non-Instagrammers but I’ll need to try another browser when I’m not so tired. Yahoo is being poo-poo tonight.

Let me know if you are sewing up jeans – comment below or send me an email and I’ll create a master list of everyone – blog links included where available.

AND THE PAPERCUT PATTERNS BELLATRIX BLAZER…

Oh yes… I made the Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer…

It morphed into a ‘statement jacket’… I’m actually wondering what the hell I was thinking, it’s not so much as a statement as it makes my eyeballs bleed… anyways here it is…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, front view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, front view. The jacket has these cute little single welt pockets tucked into the peplum – and are a breeze to sew. I used the black sateen for the welts to match the lapel.

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, back view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, back view. This could have done with shoulder pads… I can’t believe I typed that…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, side view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, side view

It’s just a humble print cotton sateen with lapels in black sateen. I’ve lined it with a vivid aqua silk (sorry bit blurry – late at night and using my iPhone #tiredblogger)

Bellatrix Blazer details

Bellatrix Blazer details. Clockwise from left: Lining, sleeve facings, sleeve shaping

The Sleeves…
I did find the sleeve heads a bit of a struggle to fit into the body & I was very glad my fabric had some stretch – I needed it!
The hems of the sleeves are slightly curved (and have a sleeve hem facing) and I love how they sit on my wrists/hands.
The instructions have you hand sew the lining to the sleeve facings. Since I’ve figured out how to machine finish sleeve hems, I choose to machine these. Really it’s the simplest way to finish sleeve hems.

The Pattern…
You really do need to buy at least one Papercut Pattern in your sewing life. Beautifully presented, unique packaging, sturdy paper, good instructions… yes expensive but the price includes postage anywhere in the world. You know you want too…

Overall Verdict on Papercut Patterns Bellatrix…
This is quite an easy jacket sew.
I think the sizing runs large – I made up the XXS and it feels the right length but is very generous around my frame.
The sleeves are a bit tricky – so watch out for that.
OMG there is a lot of interfacing. I think it would be easier to block fuse a lot of your fabric. Pretty much it’s just the back and sleeves that are not interfaced. It does make for a nice finish though.
I usually love cropped jackets but I think I’d prefer this in the longer length on me.
I think I’d like it in a solid colour as much as this is crazy fun (oh dear I must be getting sensible in my old age *sigh*).

I still want a bomber jacket…

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer
Fabric: Cotton Sateen from Spotlight. Lining: Silk from Spotlight.
Also see: Let’s Tweed Again | Gingermakes | Handmade by Heather B | Girls in the Garden | Very Purple Person | Mercury Handmade Fashion (she has made it many many times – all gorgeous | Jolies Bobines | Alida Makes | alas I’m too tired to keep linking! There are so many out there – go to Google Images and search for Bellatrix Blazer… get inspired.

SBL LIFE UPDATE
Life’s been hideously busy, I’m overtired and just generally feel like I’m stretching myself in a million directions for everyone else… I’ve booked some days away all by myself so I can unwind. I’m on a countdown – 29 days to go… not sure I’ll be sane by then…

Pattern Parcel #3: April Rhodes Staple Dress

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Pattern Parcel is back! It kicks off today. Until 13 June you will be showered by bloggers across the world sewing up endless variations of five (actually six!) different patterns (see the end of this post the tour schedule!) tempting you to buy Pattern Parcel #3 – a package worth $68+.

Pattern Parcel #3

So what’s in Pattern Parcel 3?

Pattern Parcel #3 includes:

  • Poppy Tunic by Make it Perfect
  • Water Bottle Tote by Radiant Home Studio
  • Jorna Tank Dress by Jenna Brand
  • Staple Dress by April Rhodes
  • Bombshell Swimsuit by Closet Case Files

AND a Bonus Pattern!
Pattern Parcel #3

Choose a price of $28 or greater for Parcel #3 and you will automatically also be sent the Bonus Pattern! “The Bonus Pattern for this Parcel is Prefontaine Shorts for Women by Made with Moxie. This shorts pattern has a retro trim, loads of pockets, two inseams and are so comfortable you won’t want to take them off. Includes sizes 0 – 24. Exclusive launch on Pattern Parcel. Be the first to own this pattern!”

Buy Pattern Parcel #3

I love Pattern Parcel. There is the feel-good factor of your purchases contributing to charity. From a selfish sewing point of view, you get five patterns and perhaps some you’d never considered sewing before. I actually love that part the most – sometimes you decide to make something unexpected and it turns out great! I’ve worn my Summer Concert tees from Pattern Parcel #1 a lot – my lace back one in particular!

When I saw what contents of the Parcel, I printed and assembled the Shorts pattern, I also printed the Bombshell and Jorna. Then just days from Pattern Parcel 3 deadline… I desperately wanted a simple autumn dress to wear with boots… and the only pattern I had never considered making suddenly rocketed to the top of my must-sew list – the April Rhodes Staple Dress. Thank you Pattern Parcel!

I’ve sewn this up in a lovely soft rayon twill. I have a ‘thing’ for paisley and tartan together. I also love navy for autumn wear – so much softer than black.

We took these photos in a desperate rush – as I’m actually standing in misting rain! I was in such a rush to take the shots that I forgot to put my cream lace scarf on with this which really makes it look cute. I got loads of compliments wearing this today… which always surprises me when I’m wearing such a simple make.

April Rhodes Staple Dress

April Rhodes Staple Dress from Pattern Parcel #3

This is a delightfully simple dress to sew. It probably took me less than four hours to assemble the pattern, cut the fabric and assemble most of the dress. It has a just five pieces. Front, back, neck facing and two armhole facings.

What had me bamboozled, and took four tries, was the waist shirring!

Shirring
I’d heard shirring was the easiest thing in the world to so. So I did my internet research, watched YouTube, wound the bobbin three times (loose, with slight tension, looser again), tried different stitch lengths – you name it. Every time the shirring was too tight and it was a DISASTER. So I heaved the Heavy Duty Singer out of its box, threaded it up and… perfect… first time. Personally I suspect it’s the size of the hole in the Bernina bobbin case that the elastic has to pull through that is the issue or I need to release the bobbin tension screw (which freaks me put – stupid I know)… then again others find they can’t shirr with a top loading bobbin… it’s a mystery.

I would argue if you have had issues with shirring, it really might not be anything you are doing or not, simply that your machine is just not into elasticised waists.

I’m really glad I found a shirring solution as I love the regular gathers it provides to the waistline – even though I might always wear a belt with it, I much prefer the look of even small gathers, the dress falls much more nicely with them. It is also an extremely comfortable waistline! Not to mention it transforms a rather sack-like dress…

April Rhodes Staple Dress dress - pictured flat, no shirring (and yes, no hemming)

April Rhodes Staple Dress dress – pictured flat, no shirring (and yes, no hemming)

April Rhodes Staple Dress dress - flat with a shirred waist

April Rhodes Staple Dress dress – flat with a shirred waist

I think I will return to my old Jiffy dress – from the Pattern Pyramid and add shirring to it. I’ve worn it a lot but the bunching at the waist bothers me a little. Shirring is the perfect cure.

The Facings
The neckline and armholes are finished with facings – which are in essence just bias strips which are slightly longer on one side and they fit perfectly. This is such an easy dress to finish. If you are a beginner stitcher or even an experienced one, the very comprehensive instructions and finish of this dress is very satisfying.

The Pockets
I love the pockets on this dress. Yes, they are just pockets but I love that the instructions have you stitch them in such a way that they are attached to the dress front seam allowances – hence they always face forward.
The only thing I found odd was that the instructions do not have you understitch the pocket edges at the dress seamline – which I think makes for a neat finish and keeps the pockets tucked neatly into the dress – no rolling out.

April Rhodes Staple Dress, front view - OH LOOK! POCKETS

April Rhodes Staple Dress, front view – OH LOOK! POCKETS. And yes, I have a yacht mast springing from my head.

Overall Verdict
I love the kimono sleeves, the loose fit and ease of this dress. I know I’ve been blessed with a lean build but I don’t feel the need to showcase my shape or legs with everything I wear. Some days I just want to slouch about and relax.

I can see this being a great dress in many types of medium to lightweight fabrics – and I certainly think there will be many more in my wardrobe – I’d love one in silk or silk cotton for spring/summer. The patterns states 2m of fabric for 150cm wide fabric. I got my dress out of a lot less but then I do cut the smallest size so I can fit more across the width of the fabric I guess.

About Pattern Parcel: “Here at Perfect Pattern Parcel, we believe in supporting independent pattern designers. It’s our opinion that indie patterns are just, well, better than big box patterns, and we’re pretty sure our customers think so too. So, we allow customers to show their support in naming their own price for each Parcel. We also encourage customers to allocate part of their Parcel price to the charity Donorschoose.org in order to help classrooms in need. Pattern Parcel donates all profits after expenses from Parcel sales to the charity as well. Together we’ve raised almost $4,500 towards eliminating educational inequality.”

Buy Pattern Parcel #3

Parcel #3 Inspiration Tour Schedule:

Friday, May 30
Sew Busy Lizzy ||
Pienkel ||
SeamstressErin

Saturday, May 31
Design By Lindsay ||
the Brodrick design studio ||
Cookin’ and Craftin’

Sunday, June 1
Diary of a Chainstitcher ||
a happy stitch ||
Disaster in a Dress ||
sew Amy sew

Monday, June 2
Idle Fancy ||
Casa Crafty ||
Kadiddlehopper ||
Dandelion Drift

Tuesday, June 3
Our Family Four ||
Casa Crafty ||
Cookin’ and Craftin’ ||
a happy stitch

Wednesday, June 4
Lexi Made ||
The Quirky Peach ||
Stitched ||
a happy stitch ||
Casa Crafty ||

Thursday, June 5
verypurpleperson ||
Casa Crafty ||
sew a straight line ||
Sewbon

Friday, June 6
Shawnta Sews ||
Mama says sew ||
a happy stitch ||
Cookin’ and Craftin’

Saturday, June 7
Casa Crafty ||
sewninestitches ||
‘So, Zo… What do you know?’

Sunday, June 8
oonaballoona ||
A Stitching Odyssey ||
Sew Charleston

Monday, June 9
Sew Sweetness ||
True Bias ||
Ozzy Blackbeard

Tuesday, June 10
Welcome to the Mouse House ||
Sew Caroline ||
Adventures in Dressmaking

Wednesday, June 11
Peneloping ||
YoSaMi ||
sewVery

Thursday, June 12
la inglesita ||
La Pantigana ||
Sanae Ishida

Friday, June 13
Seamster Sewing Patterns ||
Paunnet

This is me giggling as the marine mechanic stands patiently watching for us to stop taking pictures. And when you see my hand bunched over like that… it means I’m stressed… I need a sleep… later peoples… oh and buy Pattern Parcel #3, it’s a ripper.

April Rhodes Staple Dress

April Rhodes Staple Dress

Disclosure: there is a gift for the blogger with the most blog referrals and for participating. Honestly I’m not motivated by that at all, really I’m not. I get more than enough from all over the world not to feel the need for giveaways or competitions – in fact I’d probably donate it back to Pattern Parcel or buy something to giveaway to my readers. I simply love Pattern Parcel because I think it’s awesome initiative. I’ve been involved in several fund-raising events for my own kids’ school this month, charity is something that’s important to me… and I just LOVE to sew. I just wanted you to know. Tis all 🙂

Drape Drape takes flight with a Batwing Dress!

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No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 - Batwing dress. Sewn by Sew Busy Lizzy from rayon knit from The Fabric Store, Sydney

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – Batwing dress, back view. I do love the peek-a-boo shoulders.

I’m on the fence about this one… and I think it’s perhaps I’m not so happy with pictures or the fabric feels a little too slinky for this particular style. I do love the style and the colour. So it’s a 50/50 debate at the moment.

The fabric is a lovely rayon knit from The Fabric Store during the Sydney meet-up in March. I think a slightly heavier knit, less slinky & more matte, would work better. While the drape on this is gorgeous for the top, it’s not ideal for the skirt. The weight of the folded skirt pulls downwards and I need to hitch it up in the most unladylike fashion – you know… with a wiggle and a giggle (I’ve not always been famed for my decorum so I’m OK with that). The fabric slithers over my hips, I think something more matte would cling more to my hips (this must be the first time ever I’m looking for hip-clinging properties in a fabric LOL) and the dress would tend less to pull downwards.

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 - Batwing dress

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – couldn’t crack a smile for the camera 😦

Finishing

I found it impossible to match this shade of bruised blue and any overlocking thread looked dreadful – so I did all overlocking stitches on my sewing machine. I know you can’t see the overlocking stitches but it bothers me… I can handle hot ‘n’ bothered but not sew bothered.

The Neckline…

Once again with a Drape Drape make I found the finishing instructions on the neckline near impossible to achieve. Perhaps my knit was too soft, however the directions for finishing the neckline made it impossible to achieve a neat finish.

I found this impossible to achieve neatly with a rayon knit.

I found this Drape Drape suggested finish impossible to achieve neatly with a rayon knit.

I attached a very narrow band as per a Sewaholic Renfrew and I think this finish is much nicer.

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 - the neckline finish

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – the neckline finish

Sleeves

The book has you overlock the edges of the sleeve openings and then turn them over once and machine them down. As the sleeves fall open you do see the inside finish of the sleeve. I felt it would look terribly messy so I machine overlocked the edges in a matching thread and then turned them under twice. I pinned them, hand basted them and then machined them. Yes sounds fussy but the finish was much neater.

The Skirt

The wonderful effect of the skirt is achieved by large downwards folds at the sides – I love it and could have the side benefit of concealing significant VPL sins (although I made wise underwear choices here – enough said…)

I made the S/M size of this dress (it only comes in two sizes and this is the smallest size). I took the skirt side seams in considerably – sewing seams of about 30mm instead of 15mm. If I had left the seams as is, the dress hangs like a massive sack from my shoulders and is most unflattering. The shoulder seams are quite narrow to support 2m of fabric and I think the skirt needs to cling for the overall design to work.

Preparation

I used tailor tacks to mark all the folds etc on this fabric – no chalk or pen would mark it well. I hand basted all the skirt folds and cuff pleats into place. Pins slide straight out of this rayon knit. Despite all that basting – this is a relatively quick dress to put together. It’s got slightly whacky pattern pieces but it’s not too much of a brain bender.

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 - Batwing dress. Sewn by Sew Busy Lizzy from rayon knit from The Fabric Store, Sydney

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – Batwing dress. Still undecided about this make… it’s not for the ‘junk trunk’ shy.

On a positive note, it’s quite demure compared to some of my other Drape Drape dresses… this is about as risqué as it gets…

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 - Batwing dress. Sewn by Sew Busy Lizzy from rayon knit from The Fabric Store, Sydney

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – Batwing dress. This is as about as revealing as this dress gets – apart from the clingy factor of course!

Most of the versions I have seen omit the open sleeves – however I love them. It could be a gigantic sack on me and I love that my shoulders and arms can be seen now and then. I do find that the dress wants to slide forward and I think it could benefit from bra-keepers to help the dress stay on my shoulders. I adore how the fabric drapes in such fine folds across my back. It’s like water.

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 - Batwing dress. Sewn by Sew Busy Lizzy from rayon knit from The Fabric Store, Sydney

The ‘caboose shot’ however I do love how the fabric falls and folds across my back and arms.

I do love the feel of it and it’s quite wearable. I think it feels better on than it looks through a camera lens – so either my eyeballs are lying or the camera lens is being cruel. At least my legs are not hanging out everywhere like this memorable number… and while this one may have been short – I have worn it a lot…

I think I would love it in matte black knit as a work dress with boots. I work in a cultural centre so my wardrobe choices are sometimes a little less conservative.

I’m very tempted to chop off the skirt, add a lower band to the top and turn this into a highly wearable batwing top. The colour is lovely…

Perhaps I was having a general ‘blah’ day, bad hair, sea breeze to deal with, sun fast disappearing… perhaps I’m too self-critical…

These were taken on the river in my lovely home town of Port Macquarie, outside the venue where my wedding reception was held… many, many moons ago!

Pattern: No 7: batwing dress from the book Drape Drape 2.
Fabric: Rayon knit from The Fabric Store, Sydney

Also see: Cyber Daze | Small Things | Ancien Nouveau | The Somnolent Dachshund
Note – this dress does awesome things when made out of a stripe… tempting…

Giveaway: and I forgot to add a close date for my giveaway so let’s make it midnight, Sunday 25 May 2014 – I will draw it on Monday night.

If I seem to be absent lately – May 2014 has been hardcore busy. ELH was away fishing for nine days, I work fulltime, I have two young daughters. I have volunteered for 6 hours at Ironman on an aid station (until 10pm at night), helped run a school fete stall (this takes HOURS over several weeks – and then a whole weekend – the fete raised $25,000 so I’m happy to have contributed). My daughter is competing in a dance eisteddfod so I’ve been taking her to rehearsals, out of town for a solo performance and this weekend we are at the ‘dance group weekend’ competition for the Eisteddfod out of town – where I have ‘ballet mother duties’ ie shovelling 20 children into ‘circus’ lycra outfits at 8.30am on a Sunday morning… I’m tired just thinking about my schedule this month… I’m not quite sure how I survived it…
Massive apologies that I’m not commenting on blogs at the moment. I am reading everything – I’m just rather knackered at night & typing is tough. Sorry!