Papercut Patterns Bellatrix and Jeans in June

Posted on June 2, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

JEANS IN JUNE & JULY

I’ve been busting to write this post & suddenly nearly half a year has zoomed by… and hello? It’s June??

I wear jeans a lot – I’ve often written about my love of denim… there is no such thing as too much in my opinion. They regularly pop up in my posts…

me in jeans… and on the beach… again… yes that’s a new jacket… a Bellatrix… keep reading…

I’d set myself a deadline to sew Jeans in June. As I’ve got so much on my schedule, I’ve decided to be kind to myself – and you! – and launch a Jeans in June & July Challenge!

Jeans seem to be the ultimate sewing challenge for so many people – and I’m arrogantly convinced they ain’t that hard, I just need a reason to take them on (yes I’m now waiting to fall flat on my face – pride cometh before the fall, blah, blah, blah).

So here’s my Jeans in June & July Challenge pledge. I’ll stitch up Named Patterns Jamie Jeans… and Angela Wolf Bootcut Jeans. I’m committed – I’ve even got a real ‘clapper’! Once I decided this must be done… Stitch 56 popped up with a 20% off special so I went bananas and purchased the Angela Wolf pattern (because I love the back of these jeans – they look potentially awesome), the DVD and a clapper – which is apparently the bees’ knees for pressing seams…

Angela Wolf pattern, DVD & clapper – I don’t know what I was thinking with the DVD I rarely have time to sit still for that long!

I’d love to tell you I’m a jeans guru… although I’ve dedicated my life to wearing them, I’m sorry to say that I’m a novice jeans-maker, so bear with me! And you know, feel free to laugh at me if needed!

I think the spirit of this challenge is to muck in together and heave ourselves up the jeans mountain!

I’m making up a blog button – check back here soon… and I’ll keep you updated on my progress, I’ll review the Angela Wolf pattern & DVD… and watch this space… and GingerMakes is joining the charge! Are you?

So are you up for Jeans in June & July? What will you sew?

Tag your Twitter & Instagram with #JeansJJ
Sorry I’ve abandoned Flickr for tonight – apart from the weirdos it attracts, you now need a Yahoo account… seriously Flickr? I can live without you. I will set up a group for the non-Instagrammers but I’ll need to try another browser when I’m not so tired. Yahoo is being poo-poo tonight.

Let me know if you are sewing up jeans – comment below or send me an email and I’ll create a master list of everyone – blog links included where available.

AND THE PAPERCUT PATTERNS BELLATRIX BLAZER…

Oh yes… I made the Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer…

It morphed into a ‘statement jacket’… I’m actually wondering what the hell I was thinking, it’s not so much as a statement as it makes my eyeballs bleed… anyways here it is…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, front view. The jacket has these cute little single welt pockets tucked into the peplum – and are a breeze to sew. I used the black sateen for the welts to match the lapel.

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, back view. This could have done with shoulder pads… I can’t believe I typed that…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, side view

It’s just a humble print cotton sateen with lapels in black sateen. I’ve lined it with a vivid aqua silk (sorry bit blurry – late at night and using my iPhone #tiredblogger)

Bellatrix Blazer details. Clockwise from left: Lining, sleeve facings, sleeve shaping

The Sleeves…
I did find the sleeve heads a bit of a struggle to fit into the body & I was very glad my fabric had some stretch – I needed it!
The hems of the sleeves are slightly curved (and have a sleeve hem facing) and I love how they sit on my wrists/hands.
The instructions have you hand sew the lining to the sleeve facings. Since I’ve figured out how to machine finish sleeve hems, I choose to machine these. Really it’s the simplest way to finish sleeve hems.

The Pattern…
You really do need to buy at least one Papercut Pattern in your sewing life. Beautifully presented, unique packaging, sturdy paper, good instructions… yes expensive but the price includes postage anywhere in the world. You know you want too…

Overall Verdict on Papercut Patterns Bellatrix…
This is quite an easy jacket sew.
I think the sizing runs large – I made up the XXS and it feels the right length but is very generous around my frame.
The sleeves are a bit tricky – so watch out for that.
OMG there is a lot of interfacing. I think it would be easier to block fuse a lot of your fabric. Pretty much it’s just the back and sleeves that are not interfaced. It does make for a nice finish though.
I usually love cropped jackets but I think I’d prefer this in the longer length on me.
I think I’d like it in a solid colour as much as this is crazy fun (oh dear I must be getting sensible in my old age *sigh*).

I still want a bomber jacket…

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer
Fabric: Cotton Sateen from Spotlight. Lining: Silk from Spotlight.
Also see: Let’s Tweed Again | Gingermakes | Handmade by Heather B | Girls in the Garden | Very Purple Person | Mercury Handmade Fashion (she has made it many many times – all gorgeous | Jolies Bobines | Alida Makes | alas I’m too tired to keep linking! There are so many out there – go to Google Images and search for Bellatrix Blazer… get inspired.

SBL LIFE UPDATE
Life’s been hideously busy, I’m overtired and just generally feel like I’m stretching myself in a million directions for everyone else… I’ve booked some days away all by myself so I can unwind. I’m on a countdown – 29 days to go… not sure I’ll be sane by then…

Running hot & cold… Burda 7401

Posted on November 8, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

aka The Jacket of Poo… not

Burda 7401 – a modern-day trench (OMG I’ve got my sunnies off – note I do wear my sunnies whenever I am outside – it’s an Aussie beach girl thing.

Oh, it’s not so bad… now I’m finished… I feel this sense of impending DOOM as I sewed.

The construction was an epic battle and at one stage I desperately hated it and banished it to the wardrobe. Funnily enough now I’ve fallen in love with it, it’s rather like the artful trench that wasn’t (hey, I’ve never claimed to make much sense).

Burda 7401 front view closed.

THE JACKET THAT NEARLY WASN’T…

I sewed like a woman possessed. Then fell outta love. Hard. I tweeted and bemoaned how this project had morphed into The Jacket of Poo. And I hated it. With a passion. I even banished Betty and the jacket to the wardrobe for a week. I got up on Saturday and pinned the sleeves on… and it restored some balance and I felt better… and nearly missed my weights class as a result… ah the sacrifices!

WARNING… dangerous sleeves ahead…

Yes, they are kimono sleeves. No setting in a sleeve. Hooray I hear you cry… however they have a gusset under the arm… and it is hell on earth to sew. A straight piece of fabric curling around a sharp curve… it’s like driving on buttered bald tyres on an icy road… you desperately try to hug the curve but it just doesn’t play nice… and you have to sew it four times… oh how the drunk monkey howled in mirth…

Burda 7401 – sleeve gusset… so much harder than it looks.

Most of this jacket I did not find technically difficult however the sleeve gussets are a nightmare. I tried pinning, basting, hand-stitching… regardless of my approach they are just incredibly disagreeable and that one step makes this jacket an advanced project in my opinion.

SHHH… secret pockets!

Yes, it’s got pockets. Where??? The front panels are also pockets. They open at the side seam and are the full width and depth of the front panel. I personally would not use them to stash things in as it would ruin the drape of the jacket – however they are excellent when slouching around town.

: Burda 7401 – concealed pockets

CONSTRUCTION… embrace it…

This is not a lined jacket.. and I don’t believe everything needs to be lined… I know, shock horror, I’m a sewing radical.

It’s a very modern jacket, with interesting design lines, pockets hidden in the seams, softly folded lapels, standing collar, an angled flared peplum. I think seeing the seams is interesting and also the reverse of the fabric, it’s all part of the feel. I didn’t really want to see fraying or neatened seams… so I flat felled many of the seams… excluding the sleeve gussets and the peplum. The sleeves and peplum I attached as usual and then sewed the seam allowance down through all the layers so every seam had a secondary line of stitching as per a flat felled seam.

TIES… the closure that nearly wasn’t…

I added the ties – which I thought were epic cool – I created them from the furry selvedge as I discovered that there is a Million Shades of Beige and no ribbon would match. They matched perfectly and… I hated them. I tried creating the wrap ties like Carolyn did on her beautiful jacket for her daughter – but I disliked them crossing the smooth peplum at the back and pulling on the drape of the front.

: Burda 7401 – deciding on the closure

I almost cut off the ties and replaced them with a hook and eye…. almost. Then I simply trimmed off the furriness (as suggested by ELH) and suddenly things looked much better. The overall feel of the jacket and the fabric is just too slick for any soft textures.

Burda 7401 – how I love the back view of this jacket….

I found this fabric – this rather amazing shimmer twill at the Alannah Hill outlet in Melbourne. It’s only downfall… it is epic beige- not my favourite shade. I was so delighted when I found similar fabric on the Minerva site – shimmer twill. I’ve now got some in raspberry and green… I may have just purchased some more in ice blue… I highly recommend this fabric. It’s absolutely perfect for jackets – make a Sewaholic Robson in it! It’s the perfect weight, practical sturdy fabric that doesn’t fray badly and has a lovely soft metallic sheen – trust me – you will love it.

OH THE IRONY… I made a Shiny Beige Jacket… face palm

‘Beige’ is the disparaging colour I apply to people I find dull. Beige People come in many forms – people who are so righteous it’s tedious, people so lacking in real opinion they talk without saying anything, people who never really say what they mean for fear of offending, people with no opinion but the opinions they spout of others.

I also have an aversion to Shiny People. I probably loathe Shiny People more than Beige People. Shiny People are those people impressed by appearance and stuff – what lies beneath doesn’t matter as much as the surface and the price tag that it came with. They never really seem to have ‘friends’ so much as impressive people in beautiful clothes that they hang out with because they are the right sort of people to be seen with. The type of people that you never really feel you actually know…

Burda 7401 – side view

Life should be lived, in all its colour spectrums (the odd moment of beige is OK, and heck Shiny can be hellishly fun… Shiny can be like eating three courses of dessert with loads of grog – let’s be honest) and a little bent around the edges… because life is like that if you open your eyes and really look… imperfection is what makes life interesting and beautiful. Shiny Beige jackets and all… perhaps this is in fact my very own flak jacket against the army of Beige/Shiny People that live out there… and a reminder of who I’m not going to be…

SewNotABeigeShinyPerson (most days I hope).

Inspiration: Handmade by Carolyn (beautiful gorgeous make) & Pretty Grievances (Anne scared me off this pattern for a while with her tale of woe!)

Pattern: Burda 7401. This appears to have recently gone out of print. I think it may still be in Australian stores.
Fabric: Beige Shimmer Twill from Alannah Hill outlet, Melbourne – purchased on the Frocktails trip. Similar fabric from Minerva Fabrics… on clearance!
Location: Port Macquarie Town Green… a block from where I work… I know… life’s tough… shot in my lunch break…

BY HAND LONDON Silk Sari Victoria Blazer

Posted on July 6, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

The Sari Edition – By Hand London Victoria Blazer

By Hand London have done it again, created a beautiful yet simple pattern which is taking the blogging world by storm! THE VICTORIA BLAZER. Plus they are doing a Sewalong – fear jackets no more!

Yes, it’s popped up at House of Pinheiro, Sew Dixie Lou, Dolly Clackett, The Virtual Princess & the Pea, A Stitching Odyssey and none other than Oonaballoona of Kalkatroona.

By Hand Victoria Blazer - The Sari Edition back view

By Hand Victoria Blazer – back view – oops excuse the little oopsie crease in the hem!

The thing I am coming to love most about the By Hand London patterns is they have these amazing cuts, great drafting and the patterns lend themselves to so many interpretations. I fear I may be a junkie for these patterns. I really adore their design aesthetic… as they describe themselves: By Hand London is an independent sewing pattern label for women who love to dress up, stand out and customise their own wardrobe. The designs themselves are an up-to-date take on classic silhouettes and so act as a canvas for your unique look. Creating patterns inspired by and named after the stylish ladies we know and admire, By Hand London is all about championing individual style and celebrating strong femininity.

What’s not to love about that! And they have just celebrated their first birthday. Happy birthday girls – looking forward to your second year!

I made the cropped version in the smallest size – it’s slightly shorter than it should be as I didn’t realise how badly silk dupioni can fray!!! I picked up the black silk from The Fabric Store in Sydney the morning after the Sydney June Meet-up High Tea. It was in the remanents bin – score!

The lining is a vintage silk sari that I found on ebay. The collar and cuffs are cut from the gilded edge of the sari. I pieced the collar and cuffs so the reverse is a matching pink linen (leftovers from my Tessuti jacket) to provide a little more body to the pieces as the sari is old and oh so soft & fine. The sari is gorgeous – if you are thinking about experimenting with these, the vintage ones can be a little stained and worn in places – however they are 5m long so you can cut around the ‘issue’ areas. Damage to mine was minor and for the princely sum of $20 (including delivery) I think it’s good value for 5 metres of silk!

By Hand Victoria Blazer – the Sari Edition & lining!

By hand Victoria Blazer – the Sari Edition, the cuffs

By Hand Victoria Blazer – the Sari Edition, the collar

By Hand London – the sari lining.

You might notice that I have only attached the collar band and not the lower lapels. I did attach the lower lapels but because the gild edges are prone to curling a little, they didn’t sit perfectly and looked a little wonky – that sort of thing bothers me tremendously. I knew that when I wore it I would be forever fiddling with them – and there is nothing worse than a girl tugging at her clothes – if you want to look effortless and stylish, constantly tugging and pulling at your clothes is not going to achieve that. So I took the lower lapels off. I’m much happier with the jacket with just the collar band.

I took three lots of pictures trying to get some nice ones… it’s tricky in winter, it is dark early and photographing black was not easy! So I ended up trying it with jeans, a black singlet, a white singlet and a black dress! At least it is versatile!

I hear there is another pattern just around the corner from the By Hand London girls – I can’t wait to try it!!! So far it’s been three out of three for these girls. A trifecta of sewing joy!

By Hand Victoria Blazer, the Sari Edition with white singlet and black skinny jeans!

By Hand Victoria Blazer the Sari Edition with black singlet and skinny jeans!

By Hand Victoria Blazer – the Sari edition with a black slinky dress

It’s an easy make. Really easy. I did have to gather the sleeve heads ever so slightly as the silk dupioni was not very forgiving going into the armhole, just a tiny bit of gathering pulled it in perfectly. I might have been having a Doh! moment (which I am prone to) but the instructions did not seem to mention how to finish the lining armhole edges. I just turned them under and slipstitched them to the seam allowance of the armholes, like I did with the Elisalotte.

Next time around I would also line the sleeves. It would be easy to modify the pattern ever so slightly to accommodate the lining going over the armhole without pulling – plus the cuffs is a nice neat French seam so I think it will work beautifully.

It’s quite a boxy shape in the silk dupioni but I like it as an evening jacket, it’s got great structure. I can’t wait to make this in a fabric with some more drape, perhaps a ponti or wool…

Woo hoo – I’ve squeezed THREE Indie Patterns into The Curious Kiwi & Modern Modern Vintage Upcake’s Indie Pattern Month, my Tofinos, my Cambie and my Victoria Blazer! And four if you count my Icecream Marion cardigan – ok it’s knitting… but you know I think I can claim it 🙂

Pattern: sent to me By Hand London girls (thank you!!!!), I wasn’t paid and all opinions are my own – this pattern rocks as much as Elisalex & Charlotte. Fabulous fabulous.

If you are in Australia you can order this from Sew Squirrel.

Fabric: Black Silk Dupioni (The Fabric Store) & Sari Silk (eBay).

Tessuti Gridlock Pop – mission complete

Posted on April 1, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

120

This project has been an endurance sport. I feel like that little athlete from an unknown country who staggers into the Olympic stadium about 3 hours after the winner of the marathon has crossed the line. A little nobody with no energy but simply determined to finish.

GRIDLOCK POP

The original post from Tessuti was to “design an outfit incorporating this fabric. Make it up however you like but make it just for you! Our brief is simply to create something stylish and appropriate as day wear.” That later seemed to morph into ‘garment’ but I had this ‘outfit’ concept stuck in my head.

I spent ages looking at this fabric. It sat next to me on the lounge some nights and I draped it over myself quite a bit. I learnt about the fabric, how it draped and felt against my skin. This fabric is hot to wear – it’s 21% cotton, 77% poly and 2% polyurethane – there is no way I would make this to wear as a ‘daywear’ dress in my climate. I would ‘glisten’ terribly at any time of the year (that’s sweat in ladylike terms). It’s ‘breathing’ properties are limited. It’s a great jacket fabric though.

I chose my trusty Fashion Star jacket in the end. Like everyone I loved the Burda Crossover Blazer and Burda 7491 came in a close second (I even traced Burda 7491 and purchased the Crossover Blazer pattern). Those jackets are lovely but I don’t think Gridlock would have done them justice. Thank you Trish & Felicity for their advice.

The fabric had arrived wrapped in an old McCalls pattern – it seemed like fate.

The colour, while being a very beautiful blue, looked dead against the cream background. It needed a ‘pick-me-up’ so I decided a burst of colour was required.

My first choice was dusty pink but when I visited the fabric store this cerise cotton linen leapt from the pile of bolts, saying ‘Whattaboutme?’. It made the Gridlock POP so I found some matching lining and away I went.

Tessuti Gridlock – POP

I think the temptation with this competition is to clad yourself from head to toe in Gridlock. I decided to create a statement piece (the jacket) and a dress is to complement the statement piece. They complement each other without being ‘matchy-matchy’. The items can be worn by themselves or together as an ‘outfit’. I wore the jacket today with my jeans for a TV interview!

That was the EASY PART.

THE JACKET – MCCALLS 6611

The optional extras that I inflicted on myself:-

Continuous bias binding
Made-by-me piping
Topstitching. Not just the jacket shell but also the lining – in contrasting thread (pink on blue and blue on pink)
Covered buttons

THE DRESS – MCCALLS 6699

As I prefer to make my life as difficult as possible, I made up Fashion Star pattern (6699) to pair with the jacket. It’s got cute contrast pockets, skirt vent and waistband. The Gridlock fabric is quite bulky so I chose to add strips of it to the pocket lining.

To the dress I added:-

Topstitching to the neckline and armhole.
Piping to the waistband (self made as for the jacket). I’ve really proud of the zipper as the piping is pretty close to perfect.
Underlined the skirt, I was concerned the pockets would show through the skirt.

I will write up a post later in the week about how I did a few things with this project – right now I’m too tired and over it to say much more (except I want to make a t-shirt for therapy).

There are some seriously awesome entrants now for this competition – which you would expect with $1000 on the line.

SHUT UP LIZZY & SHOW US THE PICTURES.

OK. Let the pictures speak for themselves. A little creased due to car travel – no ironing facilities at the lighthouse!

I can’t help but point out – how perfect are these shoes for this outfit!!?? The right colour and even a bit ‘Gridlocky’, it was pure luck, I’ve had these for years!

Even the ominous clouds seem to be the right colour. I have not colour altered these pictures at all.

TESSUTI GRIDLOCK

TESSUTI GRIDLOCK – alternate view

Tessuti Gridlock. The dress – Cerise with contrasting Gridlock elements

TESSUTI GRIDLOCK – sleeves rolled back.

TESSUTI GRIDLOCK – back view

Tessuti Gridlock – back view. Alas cotton linen is very ‘crushable’.

Some detail pictures…

Tessuti Gridlock: lapel, button, piping, topstitching

Tessuti Gridlock – pocket

Tessuti Gridlock – zipper

Tessuti Gridlock. Shell – construction

Tessuti Gridlock. Lining – construction. Please note I’ve top stitched the lining with contrasting thread!

THANK YOU!
Thank you in particular to Trish, she endured regular random emails from me – which I am sure made little or no sense some days – I even inflicted progress shots on her. Thank you, thank you, thank you. This stopped what was a hard project from also being a long & lonely project.

Thank you also to the Tweeples who checked on my progress and cheered me on, especially Bimble&Pimble with her derby cheers and pom poms.

Good Luck Tessuti Gridlock contestants…

Focus Lizzy… Focus!

Posted on March 5, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

I tend to talk and write a lot. What can I say I talk, I type and words just come out!

So I’m attempting to rattle on less tonight, it’s getting late and I need to sleep 🙂 otherwise I end up SewCrankyLizzy.

PATTERN REVIEW RTW

Voting is now open on the Pattern Review website for the RTW competition. I’m quite sure that there are a few entries there that are going to smash my humble little gingham shirtdress but I’ve decided that if by some miracle I do win the $200 Mood voucher, I’m going to buy something (in addition to my dream Anise fabric) to giveaway on my blog. I figure you all want something from Mood Fabrics just as much as me – so part of being happy is about sharing it around 🙂 You are all so generous and kind to me, I would like to give a little back in the form of Mood fabulousness if possible. I guess that would be interpreted as an enticement but it’s not intended that way. A lot of what I have achieved has been inspired by your kind words and encouragement, you are all as much a part of my sewing as me. Maybe I should have wait til after the competition. Ah, I prefer to be upfront and just say things like they are. It’s just something I want to do & it’s not an afterthought Read more about this project here.

My Shabby Apple RTW inspired dress – I love it with my dark red belt, patent red slingbacks. I have worn this A LOT. Making it a sewing win regardless of Pattern Review competition outcome.

VINTAGE DRESS

I’ve also made up a vintage pattern – see if you can pick which one…. Thank you SuzyBeeSews! The bodice of this is very much like the Peony but it fits without alteration. I made this from an old doona cover from a charity shop – I as nervous about the fit but it fitted perfectly. The skirt is a little too gathered for the dress, I just used all the leftover fabric once I cut out the fabric. I didn’t have enough doona cover for the flared skirt in the original. I love this bodice. I want to make the dress again – sleeveless version.

Vintage McCalls. That’s one of my beloved pieces of furniture, a early 1900s settee, from my childhood bedroom.

DISTRACTED

I’ve been distracted by Sewalongs. I can’t help myself. I have almost finished my New Look 6000 for Scruffy Badger’s Polka Dot NL 6000 sewalong. It’s more splodge-a-dot but I like it. I love this pattern. I confess I had been put off it because the envelope was so thick LOL. The neckline on this is not playing nice, it looks smashing but the facing does not want to stay put – damn you drapey fabric… although the pleats look lovely… I want to make it in a ponti fabric for work. Love this pattern.

New Look 6000

Despite having the perfect pattern for the Sew for Victory Sewalong…

Sew for Victory. An original 1044 pattern.

YEAR OF THE JACKET RESUMES

I’ve decided that my London trip is too close and I would like to attempt to make a jacket to take. Hmmmm, I know ambitious….

Burda 03/2013 jacket. A pretty wool blend.

I also got this raspberry stretch lace and would love this little cardigan from the latest Burda magazine. Don’t you think it would look fabulous with a black Charlotte skirt and a skinny belt…

Burda 03/2013 lacy cardigan

Focus Lizzie. Focus!

Oh and my Tessuti competition fabric arrived…

Tessuti package – how awesome is that packaging!!

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…

Category Archives: Jackets

Papercut Patterns Bellatrix and Jeans in June

JEANS IN JUNE & JULY

AND THE PAPERCUT PATTERNS BELLATRIX BLAZER…

Running hot & cold… Burda 7401

aka The Jacket of Poo… not

THE JACKET THAT NEARLY WASN’T…

WARNING… dangerous sleeves ahead…

SHHH… secret pockets!

CONSTRUCTION… embrace it…

TIES… the closure that nearly wasn’t…

OH THE IRONY… I made a Shiny Beige Jacket… face palm

BY HAND LONDON Silk Sari Victoria Blazer

Tessuti Gridlock Pop – mission complete

Focus Lizzy… Focus!

JEANS IN JUNE & JULY

AND THE PAPERCUT PATTERNS BELLATRIX BLAZER…

aka The Jacket of Poo… not

THE JACKET THAT NEARLY WASN’T…

WARNING… dangerous sleeves ahead…

SHHH… secret pockets!

CONSTRUCTION… embrace it…

TIES… the closure that nearly wasn’t…

OH THE IRONY… I made a Shiny Beige Jacket… *face palm*

OH THE IRONY… I made a Shiny Beige Jacket… face palm