FLORA (AM) By Hand London – the muslin edition

Posted on March 9, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

I just love this shot… such a beautiful classic Aussie beach (plus a pretty dress)

Slightly behind schedule – life has a habit of getting in the way at the moment… By Hand London’s latest pattern – Flora.

Like any sane sewing blogger – when asked by the By Hand London gals if I was interested in pattern testing… I said YES, YES, YES… (rather in the vein of ‘When Harry Met Sally’.)

This is actually my ‘muslin’ Flora – made up from a stashed cotton sateen… I wasn’t going to blog her but I know you always want MOAR. So here is the Flora prelude to my final version.

By Hand London girls were rather fabulous and organised Tessuti Fabrics to provide some completely amazing fabric (cotton sateen with a satin finish) for my second version. I will photograph it this afternoon. While it’s the same mock-wrap version… it’s completely different due to the dramatic fabric provided by Tessuti. I’ve called it Flora Nightshade. I’ve also lined the skirt. Flora Nightshade is dead posh 🙂

This pattern comes with two bodice options and two skirt options. There is a modest high-neck bodice and (for the floozies like me) there a lower cut mock-wrap bodice. – The skirt is a massive indulgence in ‘oomph’ – so full-skirted addicts out there… Flora is your gal.

Anyways… here’s my Flora (AM) – as in daytime – version. She’s rather rough as guts on the inside (I pinked the skirt seams – errrr couldn’t be bothered to change my overlocker thread that night) but still very pretty and wearable… I couldn’t decide what pictures to use so prepare for a visual onslaught. Pick your favourite!

Note to self – holding up the front of a mullet skirt in no way helps the back from not getting wet…

I often think I should crop my pictures more as this is a sewing blog… it’s supposed to be all about the clothes. I just can’t make myself do it – sorry. They are part of my identity, my makes, my lifestyle.

Mullet hems – they do look so cool when you photograph them….

back view…

Back view… I do really love how the back armholes just come in a tiny bit… (also love a good bit of reflection in wet sand)

side view – mullet hem in all its glory

Pattern notes…

The pattern testing version came with just the high-low (aka mullet hem). Great news – the released pattern has a straight hem as well! In the words of the By Hand London girls… (check out the square neck version – it’s lovely and I’m tempted to make another…)

“Fundamentally feminine and universally flattering with her cinched waist and voluminous pleated straight or dipped hem circle skirt, Flora is the definitive party dress. Choose from two entirely different bodice variations: a classic sleeveless faux-wrap style or the more demure tank bodice, with her high square neckline and simple shoulder straps.”

Back neckline
I found the back neckline gaped slightly – so rather than put in back neck darts I straightened up the centre back seam as it curved out a little at the top. I found this also helped the front sit better. I’m sure there is a million reasons why I should have done darts – but hey, this worked for me.

Wrap bodice
This version does gap a little. I did some research and found a slightly different solution which I will share on Floral Nightshade post.

Fabric Selection
The skirt is a fabric-munching monster – you will need a WIDE fabric, 150cm no less – also remember that the mullet option means you will see the underside of the fabric. I cut the skirt for this muslin on the crosswise grain.

I did find the bodice gaps a little – I found a cure for that and I’ll write about it in my Tessuti Fabric’s Nightshade Flora post… coming soon…

Thank you so much for all your lovely comments on my last post – I’ve been giving myself some rest so I have not had a chance to reply – but thank you, every single one was much appreciated xo

Drape Drape 2: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress

Posted on February 25, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

Drape Drape 2: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress. I have no idea where these arm muscles keep popping out from – I swear I struggle to open a jar of Vegemite most days.

Yes, it’s another Drape Drape project – if you accuse me of being obsessed, I’m not going to argue.

I’ve become rather fascinated by this particular style of clothing. I suspect it’s because it’s not something that I ever imagined wearing. It’s become a personal style journey. I’m rather fascinated. I think I’m falling in love… for now…

Not quite sure what to do with myself…

I confess Japanese clothing design always used to leave me a little confused. However right now I’m enjoying the visual contradictions it presents. It’s shapeless yet oddly sexy. It’s casually draped yet strangely highly structured.

You spend a lot of your time rearranging the cowl in a heavy onshore breeze… fortunately not every stitcher has this weather to deal with. And seriously? This drapes all the way down to my underwear… and I don’t wear granny knickers… just saying…

The different construction and pattern pieces always spellbind me. It’s like a visual cryptic crossword. If you enjoy a puzzle (I certainly do) Drape Drape is for you.

“Honey does my bum look big in this?” errr yes probably…

While this dress is styled as an extremely revealing piece in the Drape Drape 2 book (picture it with no camisole…) it’s remarkably easy to wear with a camisole. I think a long-sleeved t-shirt and boots could look quite fab in winter… I’ll let you know in a few months…

THE DRESS

My first two Drape Drape 2 projects, the dress & tshirt, were very simple projects. They look complex but in fact the appearance is achieved through unusual pattern pieces and draping.

: The line drawing – not actually very helpful for construction

This was another matter. The construction itself was not difficult – once you figure out how that cowl was attached – that’s the tricky element. The cowl and front skirt is actually all one piece. Part of the cowl is attached to the front facing (which you can’t see), another section of the cowl swoops out to the side seams, attaches to the back neckline and one folded end tucks back into the front of the cowl itself.

Drape Drape 2: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dressThe line drawing - not actually very helpful for construction

The cowl and front skirt piece

I know the above explanation makes no sense. Sorry. I think if I hadn’t had a dress form to put the dress on during construction I might have given up – once it was on the form and I had partially pinned the cowl in place across the back neckline, seeing it drape across the dress suddenly made sense.

CONSTRUCTION TIPS?

Use a walking foot. Seriously. These things make sewing knits so much easier.

I also added clear elastic to the shoulder seams as there is quite a lot of fabric hanging around that neckline.

LIFE

You know I wasn’t going to use these pictures. The outcome is in no way reflective of ELH’s camera handling abilities. In fact he’s perhaps rather captured me too well.. tired, pensive, reflective… far away… and in all honesty, sad.

I’ve been so very very tired… which explains my sporadic blogging. I’m actually medically tired which isn’t a disaster, it’s good news. When I got the blood tests back earlier today, I was elated – strange reaction but it’s a relief that at some point it ends. Physical exhaustion becomes all consuming – dominating and defining your life, mood and decisions.

Don’t fret on my behalf for goodness sake – I’m quietly content that the mystery exhaustion has been explained. Hallelujah.

Sometimes the beauty of the long bleak cloud of exhaustion is the brilliant sunshine that follows.

One of those moments…

Deemed no good by ELH – too clingy… yes because that neckline is soooo modest you need to worry about people looking at your legs.

I usually don’t write such things in this happy little space… however I’m human – we all are…

Pattern: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress from the book Drape Drape 2
Fabric: grey/black stripe viscose from All About Fabric in Tamworth NSW.

I had intended this for the Sew Sexy Sewalong – I need to take some more photos when I’m feeling more ROARSOME. LOL. I did take some without the camisole… but they are just not quite ‘there’ or perhaps I wasn’t.

If you are in Sydney this weekend for the meet-up – see you there!

Drape Drape 2 – No 2 Dress – tell me what you think…

Posted on January 29, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

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For Christmas I received Drape Drape from my very thoughtful parent-in-laws (thank you!). I liked it so much I immediately jumped online and purchased Drape Drape 2 and Drape Drape 3… so you can expect some drape bingeing in 2014…

First up is a very simple draped singlet-style dress – or the ‘one piece side drape top’… it’s photographed as a dress in the book and I’m not much of a tunic wearer so it’s a dress for me too! Helen of FunkBunny in Melbourne discovered Drape Drape around the same time… and has made a nearly identical dress! We discussed on twitter how long this dress should be – I think perhaps longer, I’m wondering whether as the hemline rises, the hips look bigger… or is more legs a bonus?

I’m throwing a bunch of images at you so you can see the dress from different angles and in motion… one of the things I enjoy most are bloggers who include lots of images and angles… particularly of the clothes ‘in motion’ after all that’s the reality of wearing them – I like to see how they ‘behave’. Some things look fabulous when you stand still and then hideous with movement. This garment does change with movement, sliding across curves and hanging loose, it’s interesting…

I can’t quite decide what I think about this look on me… I do think that it will be worn a lot in summer, it’s too easy, loose and cool not to wear… but does it suit me? I’m sure you will advise accordingly – please feel free to be honest – I’m interested in your opinion.

Drape Drape 2. Pattern No. 2, the one-piece side drape top

walking…

more walking…

Showing off the chevron side seam…

more showing off…

side/back chevron side – the knit has a sheen and you can see this where the chevrons meet and the colour of the fabric appears to change.

the ‘drape’ bit

side/back drape side

Scared of Drape Drape?
Don’t be. If you can sew knits you can conquer these books. Once you wrap your head around the different style of construction, the unusual pieces and trace off the patterns, the projects are mind-bendingly fun.

The finished garment shapes are achieved from either draping (as in this project), gathering, pleating – and a combination of all in some cases. It’s a great exploration in different pattern shapes and fabric behaviour – I’m fascinated I confess.

The sizing is small as it’s Japanese – I’ve cut this as the small/medium size.

Pattern piece

This is the completed dress flat.

The neckline is supposed to be finished with a bias binding style finish. I tried this and it was just impossible with this fabric weight – it’s just far too flimsy. So I unpicked the neckline… which was overlocked. Yes it took forever. I finished the neckline and armholes with bindings ala Sewaholic Renfrew style.

Neckline – I know my thread is the wrong colour but I still only have red, white & black thread for my overlocker. I know…

Fabric: lightweight ‘crushed’ rayon striped knit from All About Fabric in Tamworth NSW (amazing little shop).
Pattern: Pattern No 2 from Drape Drape 2

Note: I’ve got heels on because I had a quick ‘car change’ as we took photos of another Drape Drape project before this!

SewRetroBatwings – Vogue 1337

Posted on January 28, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

This was going to be a classy DVF-inspired wrap dress…

The wrap dress that wasn’t – Vogue 1337

Then I woke up the morning I was planning to sew… and decided that the wrap dress had somehow morphed into a batwing mini dress.

Vogue 1337

I’d love to explain my creative process to reach this point – however it was one of my more random, arm-waving last moment decisions… I just suddenly didn’t want a wrap dress… and I needed a retro batwing mini in my life.

Vogue 1337

Thankfully Vicki at Minerva Crafts was more than accommodating at the last minute! This pattern screams 80s to me… massive shoulders, batwings, slender skirt… you know – some times clothing should just be fun… too many people take their threads far too seriously! This is fun – fun to make & fun to wear.

Vogue 1337

I think for my first venture into the world of batwings and 80s power dressing, the option of making this in black made moving outside my comfort zone easier. I know lots of bloggers become enamoured of sewing knits – some even appear to be addicted and sew little else. I’m not one of those girls, I’m still grappling with the techniques required for a good finish…

There is a great big long post over at Minerva with more pictures – and information about how I attached the elastic to the sleeves and waistline… go forth and read…

My elastic attachment.

No I didn’t make the self fabric belt… and I changed the neckline to have a narrow binding rather than a facing because the pattern facing is the work of the devil… all the details are over at Minerva 🙂

Pattern: Vogue 1337
Fabric: Black knit from Minerva Crafts.
Kit: available here.

Timeless: Vogue 1351 for Minerva Crafts

Posted on December 24, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

Vogue 1351 – the neckline

When Vogue 1351 was released, I was underwhelmed. The styling, the fit and photography – it does the dress no favours – I look at the models and think EAT A HAMBURGER & STAND UP STRAIGHT! Despite that I kept returning to it, perhaps because I am a cowl junkie (see here, here and here for evidence)…

Vogue 1351 – I look positively beefy here and I’m a towering 5 foot 4 & weigh in under 50kg.

I’m glad I did. It’s simply lovely. It’s not fancy, it’s not attention seeking… it’s just quietly ‘there’. Simple clean lines…

Vogue 1351, front view

I know that bias-cut patterns scare some people. However the simplicity of this dress means that the construction is simple, there are minimal seams to stretch out, very few seamlines to match. The skirt skims and flares. The bodice is simple and drapes. The fit is not complex. I love bias.

This triple crepe fabric is quite heavy but falls nicely. I think the weight of the fabric lends itself well to a bias cut as it’s more forgiving over any lumps or bumps than a clingier knit fabric.

Kathryn and Laura have also made this crepe up and both commented about how it frays. As all my pieces, except the back piece, were cut on the bias, fraying was not an issue for me.

Vogue 1351, back view. The skirt on this dress is simply lovely.

Here is the good news…

Lining: 5 pieces & Shell: 5 pieces.
Zip: invisible
Just two darts in the front bodice lining. There are no tucks, no pleats.

The dress is beautifully lined. The cowl attaches to the lining and the inside of the dress is fabulous.

You could just line the bodice if you are not a lining fan.

Vogue 1351 – interior

I adore the colour of this fabric – it’s not too purple if that makes sense. And there have been two recent Minerva makes from exactly the same shade of triple crepe – there is something about the aubergine (Kathryn’s New Look dress * Laura’s Lisette Dress)… I almost made this in ‘jade’ which I think would be gorgeous… and black would be absolutely perfection as a LBD…. note to self: make this in black…

Lining a sleeveless dress is a little bit fiddly. I needed to concentrate (ie not tweet) when attaching the cowl to the lining and bodice – and joining the shoulders.

I lined this dress with a heavier than usual ‘Italian anti static’ polyester/viscose lining. It was lovely to work with – and much easier to cut out and handle than bemsilk for a change.

Things I did differently..

The patterns asks you to sew above and below where you insert the zip. It’s an invisible zip and I could see no good reason to make the zip insertion more difficult. I inserted it as per a usual invisible zip insertion and sewed the seam above and below the zip afterwards.
I also found sewing the lining to the dress waistline very tricky after sewing the lining to the zipper tape. I would sew the lining to the waistband first next time… I think!

This dress construction is not rocket science. It’s simple yet lovely. It doesn’t need a billion pleats, pockets or design features. It just is what it is and it works.

Things I would do differently…

I should have interfaced the seam where the zip is inserted. It does ripple slightly. Not enough to be a bother but I do notice it.

The pattern features a narrow rolled hem. My last Minerva project I showed how to do this – this time I used a rolled hem foot as I got one for my birthday in November (tricky getting around the side seams though!). At first I didn’t like the rolled hem. I thought the crepe was too heavy for it… but looking at the photos I love the subtle fluting it creates so I think I will leave it. The other way to finish this hem would be creating a facing as Sam, another Minerva Blogger, did with her pink crepe skirt.

Pattern: Vogue 1351, made as a size 6, no alterations.
Fabric: Triple Crepe in Aubergine from Minerva Crafts.
Kit: available from Minerva Crafts.

Also see (fabric): Laura | Kathryn
Also see (pattern): Little Betty | Sunny Gal Studio | Very Purple Person

I’m lucky enough to be able to stop at the beach after work and stroll across the sand like this… I know, life is tough…

Vogue by the seashore

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…

Category Archives: Dresses

FLORA (AM) By Hand London – the muslin edition

Drape Drape 2: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress

Drape Drape 2 – No 2 Dress – tell me what you think…

SewRetroBatwings – Vogue 1337

Timeless: Vogue 1351 for Minerva Crafts

Things I did differently..

Things I would do differently…