Vogue 1351 – the neckline
When Vogue 1351 was released, I was underwhelmed. The styling, the fit and photography – it does the dress no favours – I look at the models and think EAT A HAMBURGER & STAND UP STRAIGHT! Despite that I kept returning to it, perhaps because I am a cowl junkie (see here, here and here for evidence)…
Vogue 1351 – I look positively beefy here and I’m a towering 5 foot 4 & weigh in under 50kg.
I’m glad I did. It’s simply lovely. It’s not fancy, it’s not attention seeking… it’s just quietly ‘there’. Simple clean lines…
Vogue 1351, front view
I know that bias-cut patterns scare some people. However the simplicity of this dress means that the construction is simple, there are minimal seams to stretch out, very few seamlines to match. The skirt skims and flares. The bodice is simple and drapes. The fit is not complex. I love bias.
This triple crepe fabric is quite heavy but falls nicely. I think the weight of the fabric lends itself well to a bias cut as it’s more forgiving over any lumps or bumps than a clingier knit fabric.
Kathryn and Laura have also made this crepe up and both commented about how it frays. As all my pieces, except the back piece, were cut on the bias, fraying was not an issue for me.
Vogue 1351, back view. The skirt on this dress is simply lovely.
Here is the good news…
- Lining: 5 pieces & Shell: 5 pieces.
- Zip: invisible
- Just two darts in the front bodice lining. There are no tucks, no pleats.
The dress is beautifully lined. The cowl attaches to the lining and the inside of the dress is fabulous.
You could just line the bodice if you are not a lining fan.
Vogue 1351 – interior
I adore the colour of this fabric – it’s not too purple if that makes sense. And there have been two recent Minerva makes from exactly the same shade of triple crepe – there is something about the aubergine (Kathryn’s New Look dress * Laura’s Lisette Dress)… I almost made this in ‘jade’ which I think would be gorgeous… and black would be absolutely perfection as a LBD…. note to self: make this in black…
Lining a sleeveless dress is a little bit fiddly. I needed to concentrate (ie not tweet) when attaching the cowl to the lining and bodice – and joining the shoulders.
I lined this dress with a heavier than usual ‘Italian anti static’ polyester/viscose lining. It was lovely to work with – and much easier to cut out and handle than bemsilk for a change.
Things I did differently..
- The patterns asks you to sew above and below where you insert the zip. It’s an invisible zip and I could see no good reason to make the zip insertion more difficult. I inserted it as per a usual invisible zip insertion and sewed the seam above and below the zip afterwards.
- I also found sewing the lining to the dress waistline very tricky after sewing the lining to the zipper tape. I would sew the lining to the waistband first next time… I think!
This dress construction is not rocket science. It’s simple yet lovely. It doesn’t need a billion pleats, pockets or design features. It just is what it is and it works.
Things I would do differently…
I should have interfaced the seam where the zip is inserted. It does ripple slightly. Not enough to be a bother but I do notice it.
The pattern features a narrow rolled hem. My last Minerva project I showed how to do this – this time I used a rolled hem foot as I got one for my birthday in November (tricky getting around the side seams though!). At first I didn’t like the rolled hem. I thought the crepe was too heavy for it… but looking at the photos I love the subtle fluting it creates so I think I will leave it. The other way to finish this hem would be creating a facing as Sam, another Minerva Blogger, did with her pink crepe skirt.
Pattern: Vogue 1351, made as a size 6, no alterations.
Fabric: Triple Crepe in Aubergine from Minerva Crafts.
Kit: available from Minerva Crafts.
Also see (fabric): Laura | Kathryn
Also see (pattern): Little Betty | Sunny Gal Studio | Very Purple Person
I’m lucky enough to be able to stop at the beach after work and stroll across the sand like this… I know, life is tough…
Vogue by the seashore
Sew Busy Lizzy 
Beautiful. That colour is gorgeous on you!
I’d forgotten how much I loved purple – I was stuck in a blue rut!
what a gorgeous dress, so simple, so elegant and it looks very comfortable
It is extremely comfortable – and the husband loves it on me 🙂
Loos fabulous!
Thank you!
Looks even! Haha
A beautiful dress! And can I just say, if I would have had to guess who is the model I would have thought it was you, not that Vogue girl who clearly is in need of more than one burger.
Oh you are kind! I asked my husband what he thought about the comparison picture & if I looked ‘beefy’ in comparison – he said “no you look ‘normal'”
Merry Christmas!
Vogue should use you and your dress on the envelope. They would for sure sell more patterns! 🙂
Thank you! Even if the dresses fitted the models better it would be more inspiring….
Your version is so much better than on the poor malnourished model. You look beautiful.
Thank you – that’s a lovely thing to say… now I’m going to enjoy my heavily buttered toast even more!
This is close to Pantone’s 2014 color of the year, isn’t it? Looks great on you, and I love the fit of the dress. It’s the type of dress that looks good on almost everybody. Gotta get that pattern. Happy Holidays!
A little bit darker and I hadn’t even thought of that – good pick up! I agree I think most people could wear this style, it’s a lovely cut and drapes over the bits we would rather forget about. Happy holidays!
You are right, the anorexic model does this dress about as many favours as a coat hanger. I have made this twice now in knit and really like the pattern. After seeing yours I am soo going to make it in crepe! I love the colour you have chosen and the rippling hem.
And I’ve seen your versions and want to make it in a knit. I think I’ll still have to put a zip in… I’ll have to think about it. My bust and shoulders make even getting this dress off with the underarm zip a bit tricky!
Once again you hit it out of the park with this gorgeous dress! I sure wouldn’t have guessed it from looking at the envelope though! Way to overcome poor product representation! 😉
The pattern envelope is awful, lovely colour and fabric but appalling fit. I’m glad I saw past all that and made it up – it’s one of my favourite makes!
WOW! This is so sophisticated and elegant. I think it’s my favourite dress of yours on you so far. Looks very professional. And my word the model is shocking – well done for drawing attention to this.
My husband agrees with you – he loves the style of the skirt – goes to show you don’t have to ‘hang it all out’ to be sexy!
I love this colour on you. The dress is simply ‘there’ as you’ve said.
I hope you get a break over the coming weeks as you’ve been super busy but stylish as always.
And that model does need a good feed too.
I was nervous about the colour but it turned out beautifully. It’s quite a soft dark colour to where if that makes sense and I nice change from my usual black or blues!
Hate to be the person that points out the error on your post (sorry) but you have the labels “The Professional” and “The Amateur” on the wrong pictures – I am sure of it. Your dress is absolutely smashing and puts the other one to shame. No only the knobbly “model” but the fit and flow of yours is so much superior.
Gorgeous dress.
You almost gave me a heart attack and then I burst out laughing when I finished reading your comment – too funny. Thank you 🙂
Love it – the color and drape are fabulous. I may have to get this pattern – I love bias cut skirts so why not a dress? Though it’s winter over here so maybe a spring dress. Oh, and that model has scary thin arms. Yikes.
I think this would look lovely with a woollen cardigan. And a wool crepe would be lovely as a dress too… Highly recommend this pattern!
I have to agree with BeeJay! I would like to reiterate everything she said. Also, you are not, “positively beefy.” The “professional model” who should really be you is anemic. YOU really belong on the pattern envelope and not her. There is absolutely no comparison to you (you are so beautiful) wearing your wearing your gorgeous, gorgeous dress. Also, I am beginning to think the majority of gorgeous incredible people live in Australia. Please say “Hi” to may nephew and his wife who live there now. WINK
that’s so very kind of you – I’m lucky because I live by the beach and have a very active lifestyle that keeps me fit & healthy. Australia does have a wonderful climate (well most of it!) – thank you for your kind words and Happy Holidays!
BTW – whereabouts does your nephew live?
My vote is for the amateur! 🙂 How do you make everything look so classy?
You are too kind!
My fit motto is: skim not cling, longer not shorter 🙂
Your version is so much nicer than the one on the pattern! The colour looks great on you too.
I think I’m falling in love with purple, it’s easy to wear…
Really, really lovely! Your version is much more superior than Vogue’s and it’s worked really well in the crepe! Good job!
I wonder if Vogue made theirs in silk jersey or something?? It’s just too floppy and loose… great colour though!
This is pretty! Lovely match with the fabric. I bet this is a versatile dress, classy with heels and more casual with boots and a cardigan. And it looks comfortable too. And you look way better than the model. Beefy? No way! Look at the bodice of her dress, it looks like there’s, well, nobody in it. Not a good look 😉
I think it could be very versatile!
When I see people that stand like that I feel like slapping them between the shoulder blades – I hate bad posture!
wowzers, you’ve done an amazing job on this! It looks so classy and expensive. The style really suits you. I’ve had continuing issues with my rolled hem foot though think I have cracked it after a lot of practice – although I can never get the bits where you go over the side seams to work either, how is that supposed to happen?!
Thanks!
The rolled hem foot was a bit tricky but once I got I figured out how to get started it was ok. I rolled the hem over and used a super slim pin to hold it. I did a few stitches on the hem & then threaded into the foot. I struggled with the side seams. I think the secret is to stop before them. Hand roll them and start again on the other side… Or with thicker fabrics use a foot that does a deeper hem. I think I need the deeper hem foot… note: there is no such thing as too many feet…
I wouldn’t buy this pattern from looking at the model. But I would after seeing the dress on you – it’s gorgeous!
I was put off by the photo but if you pick the right size it’s very flattering!
this is gorgeous on you! i love uncomplicated designs, and you wear it so well. and i agree… someone give that girl a hamburger!
It’s a beautiful dress and fits you just perfectly. I wouldn’t (didn’t) give this pattern more than a passing look in the Vogue catalog, but I may have to look again after seeing your version.
I looks beautiful! Well done. I am inspired to try it – Thank you!
This shape is great on you- brava!
Thanks Anne 🙂
Sometimes the quiet things speak the loudest…in a {VERY} good way. Amazing job, as always. Happy Holidays x
Happy Holidays to you!
It’s a beautiful dress. Understatement is always the loveliest.
Agreed – and often the easiest to wear!
Gorgeous! I want that dress now, but I’m not sure I can pull it off as well as you do.
Pingback: Top 5 Inspirations | Sew Busy Lizzy
Okay. I don’t like cowls and I’m a bit to chubby for bias, but I need this dress now. Absolute perfection!
I’m a little behind on blog reading, but I’m sooo glad I didn’t click on “mark all as read” on Bloglovin or I would have missed your beautiful dress! I’ve added it on my wishlist/queue. It looks stunning! It would look great with a summer fabric too (when summer comes back up in the northern hemisphere).
Oh and I love the advice you gave the model 🙂
It’s a lovely dress – if you eat hamburgers and it fits properly. I’ve been thinking about sewing it up in a floral rayon as well – I think it would be a perfect summer dress.
Catching up with blog reading after a jaunt in Italy. I agree that this design is the epitome of elegant simplicity. I have the pattern and it just may be the first thing I sew when the jet lag tails off.
Oh look forward to reading about your travels! I think it’s best to work off the finished measurements with this one (I always do!) to avoid bagginess. It needs a waist that’s not too huge so it’s got some shape.
Pingback: Holly Jumpsuit not! It’s a Holly Dress! By Hand London | Sew Busy Lizzy
I remember reading this at Christmas, but now that it’s warm again, I must make this!!! 😉 Gorgeous, and yes, you wear it better 😉
Lol – I eat hamburgers & steak… with beer. You will love this, very simple but it has a drape!