Rum Tum Tugger Summer Concert Tee & the PATTERN PARCEL

Posted on March 11, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

While every sewing blogger seemed to be madly sewing Plantains (which is lovely!) I just couldn’t stop thinking about the Summer Concert Tee… and it made me feel like a right Rum Tum Tugger… what was wrong with me?? Plantain is French, chic, I downloaded and printed it… and still I wanted a Summer Concert tee.

I love all types of clothing – I am a true wardrobe eclectic… and in my spare time… I am a denim/khaki junkie & often a slouchy mess – I love edgy, I love grunge and I love casual. Remember, SewBusyLizzy does love to have her shoes off… Summer Concert Tee seemed so very me.

…and funnily enough days later it landed in my inbox courtesy of the brilliantly clever Perfect Pattern Parcel. Of course I immediately made two Summer Concert tees – in two evenings… because that is the SewBusyLizzy way… go hard or go home.

The classic red striped version…

Dixie DIY Summer Concert tee – the classic version

Dixie DIY Summer Concert tee – the classic version side/back view

and then there is the lace-back version – I made this from a piece of left-over Japanese rayon knit and some lace from a remanent bin… which I had considered binning but rather glad I didn’t.

Dixie DIY Summer Concert tee – the lace backed version (yes, yes, you will see the lace soon)

Dixie DIY Summer Concert tee – see there’s a little bit of lace…

Dixie DIY Summer Concert tee – there it is!

and a naughtier/younger version of me might have worn it like this…

Dixie DIY Summer Concert tee – the lace backed version – this one is for Sown Brooklyn and crew’s Sew Sexy Sewalong!

It’s a tee – easiest thing in the world to sew. I did cut my own neckbands without the pattern piece as it looked a little short. With the lace version, I simply roll-hemmed the edges of the sleeves and lower hem with my overlocker. I also decided to let the double layer sleeve hems hang separately as I liked the softness of them. I also used a doubled over strip of the Chantilly lace to bind the neckline. It’s super girly.

I’m actually smaller than the smallest measurements for this tee by 2 inches… so it’s very roomy – but I love it to pieces, it’s so very easy to wear and layer… there will be many more!

I’ve worn these ever since they came off the machine. LOVE.

And in the first ever Pattern Parcel you get FIVE patterns…

Personally I’ve been dying to make the Lady Skater to slouch around in at home. And Ava has been ringing my bell but I want to make her grungy because she’s so very pretty and I like a bit of ‘nasty’ with my ‘nice’. I’ve made the Dandelion top (which is very different and a great project to make and wear) – and heck who doesn’t need a bag? My girls seem to think bags are required in double digits.

ABOUT PATTERN PARCEL

Now we all need MOAR patterns in our lives – am I right? Great news, Pattern Parcel is the perfect solution for you! So what is Pattern Parcel?

About Perfect Pattern Parcel:

Put together two entrepreneurial makers driven by their internal voices and one self-taught hacker with an “if you build it, they will come” mentality, and Perfect Pattern Parcel was born. We are passionate about supporting independent designers in their craft and fostering a community of makers to grow. Our mission is to offer high-quality pdf sewing patterns written by indie designers while supporting children’s education.

About Donors Choose:

Donors Choose is an organization that matches up the needs of teachers and their students for specific projects with willing donors. The funds raised from each Pattern Parcel sale will go to help K-12 students in minimizing educational inequality and encourage a community where children have the tools and experiences necessary for an excellent education.

About Parcel #1:

Pattern Parcel #1 includes sewing patterns for women that are modern classics, featuring both flattering silhouettes and garments that are comfortable to wear. From a new little black dress to weekend play wear, the patterns in Parcel #1 have got you covered.

Support Indie Designers

Independent designers create patterns that are innovative, imaginative and in line with current style trends. Their patterns encompass a broad range of sizes and fabulous “out of the envelope” fit because they’re thoroughly tested by real people. With detailed and well-explained instructions, these patterns often teach as you sew. Independent designers are approachable, providing support, suggestions, publishing additions to your favorite designs, and hosting interactive sewing events. When we are patrons of indie designers, we are supporting small, mostly women owned, businesses. We are developing the community around us. We are helping to making dream come true.

Now the really cracking thing about this deal is that by buying patterns you can choose to support a charity – yes, I know. This is brilliant. “I’m not buying patterns honey… it’s about charity… yes really it is… I just have such a big heart“.

Seriously who is not going to believe that? Five fab patterns – some serious rockstars of the sewing world. Buy it – it’s on sale for just TWO WEEKS! In fact at time of posting this, there was just 11 days and 3 hours left…

and wait for it…

a Rafflecopter giveaway to boot. Go forth and support charity… and perhaps add to your pattern stash along the way… just sayin’

What does this cost? The retail value of this parcel is $48. You decide what amount you want to contribute in order to truly support the Parcel’s designers for their work – read more here… It is a personal choice. As sewing bloggers and participants in the blogosphere, I know you support indie designers… so focus on that fact – the purpose is to support independent pattern designers and charity.

RUM TUM TUGGER?

And if you don’t know what the Rum Tum Tugger reference is… it’s from Old Possum’s Book of Practical Cats by TS Eliot. My father read this to me as a child and I love every poem dearly… (I am also a huge fan of all of TS Eliot’s poetry…)

Here is an excerpt…

The Rum Tum Tugger is a curious beast:
His disobliging ways are a matter of habit.
If you offer him fish then he always wants a feast;
When there isn’t any fish then he won’t eat rabbit.
If you offer him cream then he sniffs and sneers,
For he only likes what he finds for himself;

So you’ll catch him in it right up to the ears,
If you put it away on the larder shelf.
The Rum Tum Tugger is artful and knowing,
The Rum Tum Tugger doesn’t care for a cuddle;
But he’ll leap on your lap in the middle of your sewing,
For there’s nothing he enjoys like a horrible muddle.
Yes the Rum Tum Tugger is a Curious Cat–
And there isn’t any need for me to spout it:
For he will do
As he do do
And there’s no doing anything about it!

FLORA Nightshade, By Hand London – the PM edition

Posted on March 9, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

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Hello Flora Nightshade, the new By Hand London dress pattern – and some amazing fabric courtesy of Tessuti Fabrics (thank you very much!). Colette at Tessuti sent me images of a range of options – and I just immediately fell in love with this strong & striking blue/black classic print.

It’s an amazing cotton sateen with a satin finish… and I just adore black and blue together, possibly my all-time favourite combination.

While predominantly dark, the repeat does have a small amount of white – I chose to use this in the bodice and keep the skirt dark and dramatic.

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

Do I take my shoes off at every opportunity? ummm… yes… oh course I trimmed just that little too much off the lining hem and now need to attach some bias tape to the hem to hide the reverse of the fabric. SewIdiotLizzy

Back view – I moved the zip to the underarm so I didn’t have to break up that lovely print

Just proving that sometimes I do wear shoes…

Just love this shot – even if it is blown out. It’s so soft in comparison to the other images

Pattern Modifications

I lined the skirt
I added elastic to the warp bodice edges
I moved the zip to the underarm so I didn’t disrupt that beautiful pattern.

Hem Alert

Please be aware that I am not particularly tall. People are often (politely) surprised when they meet me. I’m a very unimpressive 5 foot 4. I make the smallest size in By Hand London patterns (US 2 / UK 6). So I’m not just short but also have a very small frame – yes, at some point I forgot to grow in all directions – sorry about that. This skirt is quite short at the front. If you are a leggier lass than me, you might like to consider that when cutting your fabric.

Fabric Choices

I’ve said this once and I’ll say it again… you need WIDE fabric. This fabric was certainly wide enough… except the pattern repeat wasn’t quite centred… so it was either have an off-kilter pattern repeat… which would have been terribly obvious in such a strong and striking print… or centre the print and find a solution.

I was bamboozled for a while… rather than decrease the volume of the skirt, I cut as much of the skirt pieces as I could – which left a triangular wedge at each side of the dress. This needed to be filled – so I cut wedges from the remaining fabric and sewed them into the side of the skirt… see if you can spot them in the above photos!

Even I find the wedges hard to spot – one is directly below my hand in the side shot above.

The wrap bodice

I was concerned about the slight bodice gaping with the Flora AM version.

After some investigation I tried something new *faints*.

I studied Couture Sewing Techniques: Revised and Updated by Claire Shaeffer and came across a technique to prevent necklines from gaping using elastic.

While Shaeffer has you create a tunnel with herringbone stitches along the inside of the neckline which you then thread the elastic through, I was bamboozled as to whether these were in the inside or outside of the lining.

In the end I created my own little technique – well at least I haven’t seen it elsewhere.
After attaching the lining to the front wrap pieces, I then understitched the lining. Then I sewed another line of stitching in the seam allowance, in effect creating a tunnel running alongside the line of understitching. I threaded some narrow flat elastic through this. I secured the top end in the seam allowance. I let the elastic relax and then gently pulled about an inch out at the bottom end and secured it to the seam allowance.

This is no way gathers up the wrap edge but does create a slight tension which helps the bodice sit more firmly against your chest.

Do not gather the elastic up excessively or you will end up with a puckered bodice edge. I dunno that might be the look you are after – but I dare say not.

I don’t think this is a solution if the neckline is gaping massively – it just helps it sit firmer against your chest. I did find taking in the back by straightening up the centre back seam helped the front bodice fit enormously.

Is that clear enough? Or do you need pictures?

Pattern: Flora, By Hand London
Fabric: Cotton Sateen with a satin finish, Tessuti Fabrics

I took this for you Little Stone Cottage…

Lighthouse Beach, Port Macquarie

and this one is for you Begonia Sews…

Kookaburra… this one is for your Begonia Sews!

FLORA (AM) By Hand London – the muslin edition

Posted on March 9, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

I just love this shot… such a beautiful classic Aussie beach (plus a pretty dress)

Slightly behind schedule – life has a habit of getting in the way at the moment… By Hand London’s latest pattern – Flora.

Like any sane sewing blogger – when asked by the By Hand London gals if I was interested in pattern testing… I said YES, YES, YES… (rather in the vein of ‘When Harry Met Sally’.)

This is actually my ‘muslin’ Flora – made up from a stashed cotton sateen… I wasn’t going to blog her but I know you always want MOAR. So here is the Flora prelude to my final version.

By Hand London girls were rather fabulous and organised Tessuti Fabrics to provide some completely amazing fabric (cotton sateen with a satin finish) for my second version. I will photograph it this afternoon. While it’s the same mock-wrap version… it’s completely different due to the dramatic fabric provided by Tessuti. I’ve called it Flora Nightshade. I’ve also lined the skirt. Flora Nightshade is dead posh 🙂

This pattern comes with two bodice options and two skirt options. There is a modest high-neck bodice and (for the floozies like me) there a lower cut mock-wrap bodice. – The skirt is a massive indulgence in ‘oomph’ – so full-skirted addicts out there… Flora is your gal.

Anyways… here’s my Flora (AM) – as in daytime – version. She’s rather rough as guts on the inside (I pinked the skirt seams – errrr couldn’t be bothered to change my overlocker thread that night) but still very pretty and wearable… I couldn’t decide what pictures to use so prepare for a visual onslaught. Pick your favourite!

Note to self – holding up the front of a mullet skirt in no way helps the back from not getting wet…

I often think I should crop my pictures more as this is a sewing blog… it’s supposed to be all about the clothes. I just can’t make myself do it – sorry. They are part of my identity, my makes, my lifestyle.

Mullet hems – they do look so cool when you photograph them….

back view…

Back view… I do really love how the back armholes just come in a tiny bit… (also love a good bit of reflection in wet sand)

side view – mullet hem in all its glory

Pattern notes…

The pattern testing version came with just the high-low (aka mullet hem). Great news – the released pattern has a straight hem as well! In the words of the By Hand London girls… (check out the square neck version – it’s lovely and I’m tempted to make another…)

“Fundamentally feminine and universally flattering with her cinched waist and voluminous pleated straight or dipped hem circle skirt, Flora is the definitive party dress. Choose from two entirely different bodice variations: a classic sleeveless faux-wrap style or the more demure tank bodice, with her high square neckline and simple shoulder straps.”

Back neckline
I found the back neckline gaped slightly – so rather than put in back neck darts I straightened up the centre back seam as it curved out a little at the top. I found this also helped the front sit better. I’m sure there is a million reasons why I should have done darts – but hey, this worked for me.

Wrap bodice
This version does gap a little. I did some research and found a slightly different solution which I will share on Floral Nightshade post.

Fabric Selection
The skirt is a fabric-munching monster – you will need a WIDE fabric, 150cm no less – also remember that the mullet option means you will see the underside of the fabric. I cut the skirt for this muslin on the crosswise grain.

I did find the bodice gaps a little – I found a cure for that and I’ll write about it in my Tessuti Fabric’s Nightshade Flora post… coming soon…

Thank you so much for all your lovely comments on my last post – I’ve been giving myself some rest so I have not had a chance to reply – but thank you, every single one was much appreciated xo

Drape Drape 2: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress

Posted on February 25, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

Drape Drape 2: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress. I have no idea where these arm muscles keep popping out from – I swear I struggle to open a jar of Vegemite most days.

Yes, it’s another Drape Drape project – if you accuse me of being obsessed, I’m not going to argue.

I’ve become rather fascinated by this particular style of clothing. I suspect it’s because it’s not something that I ever imagined wearing. It’s become a personal style journey. I’m rather fascinated. I think I’m falling in love… for now…

Not quite sure what to do with myself…

I confess Japanese clothing design always used to leave me a little confused. However right now I’m enjoying the visual contradictions it presents. It’s shapeless yet oddly sexy. It’s casually draped yet strangely highly structured.

You spend a lot of your time rearranging the cowl in a heavy onshore breeze… fortunately not every stitcher has this weather to deal with. And seriously? This drapes all the way down to my underwear… and I don’t wear granny knickers… just saying…

The different construction and pattern pieces always spellbind me. It’s like a visual cryptic crossword. If you enjoy a puzzle (I certainly do) Drape Drape is for you.

“Honey does my bum look big in this?” errr yes probably…

While this dress is styled as an extremely revealing piece in the Drape Drape 2 book (picture it with no camisole…) it’s remarkably easy to wear with a camisole. I think a long-sleeved t-shirt and boots could look quite fab in winter… I’ll let you know in a few months…

THE DRESS

My first two Drape Drape 2 projects, the dress & tshirt, were very simple projects. They look complex but in fact the appearance is achieved through unusual pattern pieces and draping.

: The line drawing – not actually very helpful for construction

This was another matter. The construction itself was not difficult – once you figure out how that cowl was attached – that’s the tricky element. The cowl and front skirt is actually all one piece. Part of the cowl is attached to the front facing (which you can’t see), another section of the cowl swoops out to the side seams, attaches to the back neckline and one folded end tucks back into the front of the cowl itself.

Drape Drape 2: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dressThe line drawing - not actually very helpful for construction

The cowl and front skirt piece

I know the above explanation makes no sense. Sorry. I think if I hadn’t had a dress form to put the dress on during construction I might have given up – once it was on the form and I had partially pinned the cowl in place across the back neckline, seeing it drape across the dress suddenly made sense.

CONSTRUCTION TIPS?

Use a walking foot. Seriously. These things make sewing knits so much easier.

I also added clear elastic to the shoulder seams as there is quite a lot of fabric hanging around that neckline.

LIFE

You know I wasn’t going to use these pictures. The outcome is in no way reflective of ELH’s camera handling abilities. In fact he’s perhaps rather captured me too well.. tired, pensive, reflective… far away… and in all honesty, sad.

I’ve been so very very tired… which explains my sporadic blogging. I’m actually medically tired which isn’t a disaster, it’s good news. When I got the blood tests back earlier today, I was elated – strange reaction but it’s a relief that at some point it ends. Physical exhaustion becomes all consuming – dominating and defining your life, mood and decisions.

Don’t fret on my behalf for goodness sake – I’m quietly content that the mystery exhaustion has been explained. Hallelujah.

Sometimes the beauty of the long bleak cloud of exhaustion is the brilliant sunshine that follows.

One of those moments…

Deemed no good by ELH – too clingy… yes because that neckline is soooo modest you need to worry about people looking at your legs.

I usually don’t write such things in this happy little space… however I’m human – we all are…

Pattern: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress from the book Drape Drape 2
Fabric: grey/black stripe viscose from All About Fabric in Tamworth NSW.

I had intended this for the Sew Sexy Sewalong – I need to take some more photos when I’m feeling more ROARSOME. LOL. I did take some without the camisole… but they are just not quite ‘there’ or perhaps I wasn’t.

If you are in Sydney this weekend for the meet-up – see you there!

Drape Drape 2: No 4 One Piece Scoop Neck Asymmetric Top – it’s love…

Posted on January 30, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

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Thank you so much! I found all your comments on my last post so encouraging, interesting and a big confidence boost! Mwah.

So without further ado, here’s my second Drape Drape project…

Pattern No. 4: One Piece Scoop Neck Asymmetric Top

I’m completely sure about this one… this could be my favourite t-shirt ever. Slouchy, sexy, loose, scoop neck – and hello sleeves without setting in a sleeve – yes it’s pure magic!

: Love this – it’s all sorts of slouchy sexy goodness.

Drape Drape 2: Pattern No 4 Asymmetric Scoop neck shirt

back view

I’m doing you a favour and editing me out!

I think this is a superb slouchy sexy t-shirt. I love the quirky sleeve hem on the slouchy side. I love how it drapes and wraps around my body. It’s just perfect. I could make a million of these.

Construction thoughts

I’ve made the small/medium size.

Again, easy as pie to construct after I studied the pictures. I actually didn’t refer to the instructions once I started. It’s quite simple and logical once you get going.

This is an incredibly fine black/silver lurex striped knit. It wasn’t fun to sew, it curled and the bands were difficult – it was worth it though! I think the shirt would look quite different again in a heavier knit (or even normal weight!) but I do love the softness of this and how it falls across the body.

I attached the neckline the same as I did for No.2 dress and actually slip stitched the binding over the wrong wide onto the overlocked edge by hand. The machine was determined to eat the neckline and I was determined it wasn’t going to happen – as unpicking this would have been impossible. The overlock seam for the doubled over binding strip provided some stability and firmness that was lacking with any other neckline finish.

The knit is so fine I’ve chosen to wear a strappy tank under it – if you follow me on Instagram you will know why! LOL.