Hello Flora Nightshade, the new By Hand London dress pattern – and some amazing fabric courtesy of Tessuti Fabrics (thank you very much!). Colette at Tessuti sent me images of a range of options – and I just immediately fell in love with this strong & striking blue/black classic print.
It’s an amazing cotton sateen with a satin finish… and I just adore black and blue together, possibly my all-time favourite combination.
While predominantly dark, the repeat does have a small amount of white – I chose to use this in the bodice and keep the skirt dark and dramatic.
Do I take my shoes off at every opportunity? ummm… yes… oh course I trimmed just that little too much off the lining hem and now need to attach some bias tape to the hem to hide the reverse of the fabric. SewIdiotLizzy
Back view – I moved the zip to the underarm so I didn’t have to break up that lovely print
Just proving that sometimes I do wear shoes…
Just love this shot – even if it is blown out. It’s so soft in comparison to the other images
Pattern Modifications
- I lined the skirt
- I added elastic to the warp bodice edges
- I moved the zip to the underarm so I didn’t disrupt that beautiful pattern.
Hem Alert
Please be aware that I am not particularly tall. People are often (politely) surprised when they meet me. I’m a very unimpressive 5 foot 4. I make the smallest size in By Hand London patterns (US 2 / UK 6). So I’m not just short but also have a very small frame – yes, at some point I forgot to grow in all directions – sorry about that. This skirt is quite short at the front. If you are a leggier lass than me, you might like to consider that when cutting your fabric.
Fabric Choices
I’ve said this once and I’ll say it again… you need WIDE fabric. This fabric was certainly wide enough… except the pattern repeat wasn’t quite centred… so it was either have an off-kilter pattern repeat… which would have been terribly obvious in such a strong and striking print… or centre the print and find a solution.
I was bamboozled for a while… rather than decrease the volume of the skirt, I cut as much of the skirt pieces as I could – which left a triangular wedge at each side of the dress. This needed to be filled – so I cut wedges from the remaining fabric and sewed them into the side of the skirt… see if you can spot them in the above photos!
Even I find the wedges hard to spot – one is directly below my hand in the side shot above.
The wrap bodice
I was concerned about the slight bodice gaping with the Flora AM version.
After some investigation I tried something new *faints*.
I studied Couture Sewing Techniques: Revised and Updated by Claire Shaeffer and came across a technique to prevent necklines from gaping using elastic.
While Shaeffer has you create a tunnel with herringbone stitches along the inside of the neckline which you then thread the elastic through, I was bamboozled as to whether these were in the inside or outside of the lining.
In the end I created my own little technique – well at least I haven’t seen it elsewhere.
After attaching the lining to the front wrap pieces, I then understitched the lining. Then I sewed another line of stitching in the seam allowance, in effect creating a tunnel running alongside the line of understitching. I threaded some narrow flat elastic through this. I secured the top end in the seam allowance. I let the elastic relax and then gently pulled about an inch out at the bottom end and secured it to the seam allowance.
This is no way gathers up the wrap edge but does create a slight tension which helps the bodice sit more firmly against your chest.
Do not gather the elastic up excessively or you will end up with a puckered bodice edge. I dunno that might be the look you are after – but I dare say not.
I don’t think this is a solution if the neckline is gaping massively – it just helps it sit firmer against your chest. I did find taking in the back by straightening up the centre back seam helped the front bodice fit enormously.
Is that clear enough? Or do you need pictures?
Pattern: Flora, By Hand London
Fabric: Cotton Sateen with a satin finish, Tessuti Fabrics
Also see: Dolly Clackett | Gingermakes | Jolies Bobines | Diary of a Chainstitcher | A Stitching Odyssey | Dixie DIY | Nette | Lladybird | Zo Sews
I took this for you Little Stone Cottage…
Lighthouse Beach, Port Macquarie
and this one is for you Begonia Sews…
Kookaburra… this one is for your Begonia Sews!
Sew Busy Lizzy 
So beautiful. Had the same concerns about the wrap version but very inspired to try that wrap top version now thanks to your hot tips lady! x
Hopefully my randomly typed advice, done over a glass of wine & plate of lasagne, make sense!
What a gorgeous dress! There is nothing wrong with being petite! I’m 5′ 1 so mini skirt/dress patterns are a generous length on me! The fabric for this dress is so beautiful. You did an amazing job with the pattern.
Thank you so much, I was a little nervous as it was much stronger design than I usually wear. Always good to try something new!
So many people have the impression that I’m dramatically taller than I am. I often see them do a double take when they meet me in ‘real life’.
You definitely used that fabric to it’s full advantage ;o)
Thank you. I did pat it & ponder for a long time!
I really like this! The fabric is such a winner – it looks dark and moody and elegant and with-attitude all at the same time. Love it 🙂
I was so lucky that Tessuti sent me this – it’s divine. I was freaking out for weeks!
Love it! I’ve been waiting for your version of Flora to decide for me. I’m decided now! Time to order 🙂
So pleased! Enjoy!
That’s a real stunner right there. I think there might be a (gasp!) mullet hem in the future for me!
At some point we all give into the pull of the mullet!
Just beautiful. I’m well impressed by the lovely front wrap and the fact it doesn’t gape at all. If you have the time, I’d love to see pics if the process you used to eliminate gaping. The instructions are great though.
Love the kookaburra pic, I really miss the sound of the Aussie birdlife.
No worries. Might take me a week – I have another project blog post lined up for 11th!
Stunning! Perfect fabric and pattern match. In my world view shoes and sand don’t mix!
Agreed. There is always a mountain if shoes at our door, covered in various amount of sand.
Tessuti really smacked it out of the park with this fabric. Gorgeous.
Wit woo! Another stunner! You are really knocking it out of the ballpark at the moment, lady!
I actually think this length is perfect on you, some others I’ve seen have been dangerously short.
Great tip on the elastic too, thanks!
There is an upside to lack of vertical prowess, few things are too short!
I’ve got some simpler things in the pipeline – I needed some ‘downtime’ to just relax & sew. This project & fabric rather terrified me!
Beautiful dress Lizzy! You’ve made the best use out of a stunning piece of fabric! Well done!
Awww shucks. Thanks x
So stunning! There is such a story to this dress with your fabric placement. It’s a show stopper!
You would giggle if you knew how much time I spent just looking at the fabric! It had such a big pattern repeat – with such enormous motifs it really threw me.
However when I saw it, I nearly fainted with lust. It just screamed to be a dramatic Flora. I do love taking these girly patterns and shaking them up a little.
Big pattern repeats scare me a little. You totally nailed it with this.
Me too – only way to deal with it some days is to just do it!
Oh wow! This is a perfect match of fabric and frock, Lizzy. Epic work, chica!
Thank you Amanda! I’m so grateful to Tessuti for providing something so brilliant – when they sent through the options I fainted when I saw this one. Love a bit of drama!
Oooh, that fabric is gorgeous! I love how you faded it with white on the bodice to black on the skirt. Looks so dramatic. And, triangle wedges??? Brilliant. I can’t see them, must’ve taken hours to get just right? I have directional and repeating challis fabric like this and I’m afraid to cut into it. So many aspects to line up, center and match. I’m just not sure what to sew with it.
I think the trick is to find a pattern which has relatively few pieces. This would not work with a paneled skirt. It could work if it was colour-blocked – like I did with the large print African wax print with my Elisalotte. Putting the zip under the arm helped tremendously!
Good advice! Probably also best to go with sleeveless do you think?
Personally I’s say yes! Unless it’s a shirt – that’s might work. Vogue has some full-on print shirts.
Beautiful Lizzy! I can see why you fell in love with that fabric.
Absolutely. I was somewhat obsessed once I saw it!
That is a stunner! I LOVE the pattern placement at the back of the skirt and the beautiful way it drapes into those puuurfect little folds. Gorgeous.
Thank you 🙂
While massive/strong prints can be daunting – when they work, they just sing!
I wish I could afford more of their lovely fabric!!!
I purchased a few pieces when I was in Sydney last week. Knits – not outrageously expensive though – yes for more draping projects!
Yeah, have my eye on a camel wool knit, but the site won’t take my credit card…it did not so long ago so not sure what’s wrong 😦
Try calling the store. I ordered over the phone last week – they were very helpful!
Good call. No pun intended 😛
Beautiful! You worked that pattern!!
thanks Zo!
Beautiful – and I totally understand the lust for the fabric – perfectly utilised! Thanks for the elastic bodice tip – I think it’s the answer I’ve been seeking, at least it’s much more intuitive than anything else I’ve read or tried.
Again, gorgeous 😉
It’s a nice simple solution!
I like this dress do much I don’t know what to say… The fabric placement is excellent, it totally makes the dress! I think I’m in love…
me too 😉
Absurdly gorgeous. This is a beautiful shape on you and the fabric, with the light on top and darker bottom, just makes it!
Will hit you up for more tips re neckline when I get around to flora. I managed to miss out on the bust inches when I was in line for measurements 😉.
Thanks for the lighthouse shot. Makes me so so homesick on this grey day. Can’t wait to get home xxx
me too – I think I skipped the busty queue…
Um… Absurdly gorgeous should have read absolutely gorgeous. Hmmmmm 😳
I kinda liked ‘absurdly’ LOL much more me!
I might try using it more often. This dish is absurdly delicious… 😉
Love.it
Beyond beautiful! I remember this fabric from IG or Twitter and the thought that went in to how to cut the fabric. You did a fabulous job, it’s divine.
Oh I stressed about it for AGES – to the point where it got ridiculous. So I cut out the bodice and make it – then went back to cut out the skirt!
This dress is such a headturner – beautifully done! And thanks for the top tip there about managing gaping on the bodice.
it’s certainly a statement piece!
Gorgeous, gorgeous dress Lizzy, you look wonderful! Great tip about the gaping neckline too – thanks! x
thanks Jane – I was terrified mid-make that is was going to overwhelm me – which stopped me in my tracks for a few days as I worried about it. Glad to stuck with it though. The fabric is just outta this world.
This is so gorgeous! I love it on you! The shape works beautifully on you!
Thanks Sonja!
Such a beautiful dress and I love the fabric choice as well!
The fabric is just amazing. As soon as I saw the line drawings I knew I wanted a dark and dramatic Flora – which is interesting as everyone else has gone for light and pretty! I must be the black sheep!
How beautiful! ! LOVE The material and print! As for those triangular pieces, if you hadn’t mentioned them I wouldn’t have seen them.. I had to zoom in big time to see where they were. 🙂
I worried about the skirt for days and just could bare to use it off centre. I actually hand stitched the panels in – with the fabric flat on my ironing board. The extra time was worth it!
That dress looks stunning! Lovely fabric and very smart cutting (the white in the bodice and the black in the skirt is absolutely perfect!)
Thank you 🙂
That print is amazing! I love that you kept it light on top, so dramatic! Thanks for the elastic tip! I steer clear of wrap bodices for this very reason, even though they’re so pretty…
wraps are very flattering. I usually only stick to wrap jersey dresses as I can pull them in tighter to fit.
This print is INCREDIBLE! What a stunning idea to use the white/blue for the bodice and let the colour gradation to the black/blue occur! Absolutely beautiful! I’m in LOVE with this dress. I’m already obsessed with this pattern – now this fabric!
The fabric is really quite magnificent – so much so I was terrified to cut it for a while!
I love this version! I always like a wrap. If autumn wasn’t showing its presence I would make this. Oh well, maybe next summer! For the record I am 160cm tall or 5ft 3″! I have also been told on my blog that I look taller.
Gotta love blogging – it provides many virtual centimetres!
So beautiful. Love the gradation effect. I’m seeing too many Floras that I want to downright copy/steal, but I have too many unsewn projects already.
Please tell me that kookaburra is in a old gum tree. Even if it isn’t.
ummm is a frangipani tree OK?
Beautiful!!!
thank you Roberta!
Beautiful dress. I think I saw sneak peeks of it on Instagram, but I’m not sure.
Great idea about the neckline elastic. I’m thinking about what I would have done and want to ask you why you didn’t do it. If it were me, I would have inserted the elastic in the tunnel (cut 1″inch shorter), and the stitched it down using a zigzag stitch so that the extra was evenly distributed through the entire neckline. Is there any reason why you didn’t do this?
I’ve done this same trick, but I used gathering stitches and steam to eliminate gaping.
True love! It’s stunning!
Thanks Mum 😉 hope all is well with the little tribe
Stunningly dramatic – great idea to put the zip on the side – will stash that idea for future print retention (and fewer matching up head aches!)
Beautiful! Really love your fabric colour/print placement, very clever!!! I’m totally persuaded to try the faux wrap bodice too next ;o)
Lizzy this is so stunning on you! You have used the print absolutely perfectly, with the black in the skirt and white in the bodice. I NEED to try out the wrap version now!
okay, your first version is beautiful, but this version is stunning! well done!
Wow, that fabric is just perfect and you got the pattern placement spot on!! Love it on you.
AAAAHHH a kookaburra!!! He is so cute! Thank you! But not as inspiring as this version of Flora – I adore that fabric. The fit looks spot on in this version as well, and your piecing efforts are invisible. Nice work!
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That fabric is gorgeous!
Amazing dress – pattern placement is such an art and you so nailed it. What a perfect setting for the pics too.
it’s so lovely lizzy! nice work. i definitely couldn’t spot the piecing!
You version of this dress is really beautiful! i’m itching to get my copy of the pattern in the mail. Seeing gorgeous renditions like this makes me really eager to sew!
I love how you kept the skirt dark and the top white. REALLY LOVE IT.
Such a beautiful dress. Your side view pic is selling the mullet hem to me!!!
I think the fabric’s body & the lining really give the mullet that bit more pizazz – makes it look more elegant. Plus I think the moodiness of the fabric makes it look more night-time elegant than ‘sunshine party girl’
Eeek! That fabric is gorgeous! Another stunning flora! 🙂 love the little kookaburra too
I think dark & dramatic fabric really changed up this pattern, turns it from tea party into cocktail wear.
What gorgeous fabric! I especially like the back view. Beautifully done.
I hope you are feeling better.
This fabric is so stunning!! No wonder you fell in love with it!! I really love this on you – it’s 100% your style – so feminine and graceful, and totally perfect without (or with!) shoes 🙂
I really love this wrap version of the dress. I think that’s the one I’ll try too.
I used that elastic technique you used for the bodice on the back of one of my Elisalex dresses that refused to sit flat without it
I dutifully considered the ‘couture’ method for about 3 days – but this seems just as effective & neater, yes?
There’s a couture me this different from this?? Nah this works 🙂
Method. Stupid auto correct
Gotta love autocorrect! Do you have the couture book? Her method is do complicated, yet I think this is neater & achieves the same result. Clearly we are Couture-but-not Lizzie’s!
Don’t have the book, I’m not really a sewing book kinda girl. More prefer to wing it 🙂
Personally I prefer google! Although I’ve got Kenneth King’s Cool Couture & I love it – much clearer
I sometimes use google, sometimes instinct. Twitter is good for bouncing ideas too!
This dress is amazing! I love the fabric and I think the placement is brilliant. Thank you for the tips on how to handle elastic in the bodice, since gaping is not something I’d want in that area 🙂 I’m almost 5’3, so seeing the length of the skirt on you is really helpfull! (I also thought you were a glamazone!)
LOL it always surprises me that people think I’m so tall! I guess I’m lean & that exaggerates my height a little – alas I’m little! No glamour!
You still look glamourous! No worries 🙂
wow. what an amazing creation – you make the most spectacularly gorgeous things, and i love your finishing… My aunt (who was an adult during WWII) was an amazing seamstress, and what you did with your skirt was what she used to do whenever a fabric wasn’t wide enough – in fact, most of my patterns from the 30s with flowy skirts have patterns for the jointed bit. and she used to put hidden elastic in almost the same way you did in strapless tops, even bustiers, wrap dresses, etc – with just a little bit of tension so that no gathers are created. So you have invented/ unknowingly used vintage techniques. Isn’t that cool? Feel the connection…
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