Trying New Shapes, Papercut Saiph

Lately I’ve become intrigued with trying ‘new stuff’. New patterns, different techniques and shapes.

I’ve always loved something different – even if it’s not something I fall in love with or adopt as ‘my thing’. I’m simply interested in experimenting. To me this is the huge appeal of sewing and blogging. I find the thought process, the making and subsequent photography fascinating to analyze something new. I’m ok if it doesn’t work, I’m just curious to try.

Papercut Saiph Tunic - it's loose!

Papercut Saiph Tunic – it’s loose! The armholes are also a little large. I finished these with white bias binding

I’m the first to admit that I skimmed right on over the Papercut Saiph tunic when it was released. I found it a little shapeless for my taste and was rather bamboozled that it was called a ‘tunic’ but presented as a dress. The length also seemed SUPER short.

The ‘drop waist’ was also a deterrent as I’ve only ever worn that style as a school uniform – which I always referred to as the ‘H Line’.

Papercut Saiph Tunic - back view

Papercut Saiph Tunic – back view

Then as I looked towards summer (if it should ever really arrive…) the appeal of shifts, sacks & shapelessness reared its head. Suddenly I wanted to try new styles & shapes that I traditionally shied away from. So perhaps expect The Summer of the Shift from me. The timelessness of ‘the shift’ interests me. And well… I can’t explain my fascination with sacks…

However a few Top Notch posts triggered my curiosity and I finally gave in. Then low-and-behold Rachel of House of Pinheiro popped up with her glamorous one photographed in than Paris while mine was winging it’s way over the seas from New Zealand.

I decided to make my Saiph as designed. No fitting alterations. The Full Sack if you like! I wanted to see if me and sack dresses could be friends.

That’s not to say that this dress doesn’t have any shaping. It has French darts which are an interesting and fun addition.

Papercut Saiph Tunic - inside (sorry heading off to Sydney for a shibori workshop - no time to iron! #badblogger)

Papercut Saiph Tunic – inside – I was heading off to Sydney for a shibori workshop – no time to iron! #badblogger

But what to make it in?? I decided I wanted something with some weight but drape…. and remembered the rayon viscose ottoman suiting range at Spotlight. I’d always wonder what on earth to make with it but it seemed the perfect choice for this. It’s lovely to sew with I must say!

These were the options and I decided to go with the more graphic black/white/red fabric (I love it when Instagram polling matching up your gut instinct!).

Papercut Saiph Tunic - material options

Papercut Saiph Tunic – material options

I made the XXS and added an inch to the ‘waist’ as I am quite long waisted. I also cut the skirt length to XL as I’d read how short this design was. I omitted the sleeves as I saw this as a summer dress option.

Nothing terribly exciting to tell you about construction. I ended up lopping 1/2 inch off the skirt as the extra length seemed to exaggerate the roominess of the dress on me. I finished it with a rolled hem – not using my machine foot as this fabric was quite heavy.

I used a piece of thin black cord (ratstail – the sort you can use to make piping). I created a little loop and sewed this into the seam where the facing mets the shell at the back neck opening. I think it’s a nice little detail however it is also strong and quick to create!

Papercut Saiph Tunic - button closure

Papercut Saiph Tunic – button closure

I don’t think the Saiph translates well in photographs – not on me. I really don’t. That said, it is lovely to wear and ELH commented as he took the photographs… “I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be but it’s strangely sexy”. Perhaps it’s the shorter length with the flippy full circle skirt or the way it swings and floats around the body, hinting rather than revealing… it’s a mystery. OR ELH has a penchant for sacks?

Papercut Saiph Tunic/Dress

Papercut Saiph Tunic/Dress

I’m glad I made it, I do think in cotton it would make a great summer dress/tunic. Super cool, loose & feminine. I think it could be cute in wool with long-sleeves and tights in winter…

This image is ‘blown out’ due to the bright sunshine but I popped it in as it is one of the few without my hand on my hips – must have been unconsciously searching for myself in this loose-fitting dress!

Papercut Saiph Tunic - front view

Papercut Saiph Tunic – front view.

I’m not sure I’m sold on the Saiph – which isn’t to say that I wouldn’t make it again as I think I have space in my life for loose summer dresses. This make got me curious and I experimented with another idea… coming to a blog soon!

Pattern: Papercut Saiph Tunic
Fabric: Viscose Rayon Ottoman

Papercut Patterns Bellatrix and Jeans in June

JEANS IN JUNE & JULY

I’ve been busting to write this post & suddenly nearly half a year has zoomed by… and hello? It’s June??

I wear jeans a lot – I’ve often written about my love of denim… there is no such thing as too much in my opinion. They regularly pop up in my posts…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns

me in jeans… and on the beach… again… yes that’s a new jacket… a Bellatrix… keep reading…

I’d set myself a deadline to sew Jeans in June. As I’ve got so much on my schedule, I’ve decided to be kind to myself – and you! – and launch a Jeans in June & July Challenge!

Jeans seem to be the ultimate sewing challenge for so many people – and I’m arrogantly convinced they ain’t that hard, I just need a reason to take them on (yes I’m now waiting to fall flat on my face – pride cometh before the fall, blah, blah, blah).

So here’s my Jeans in June & July Challenge pledge. I’ll stitch up Named Patterns Jamie Jeans… and Angela Wolf Bootcut Jeans. I’m committed – I’ve even got a real ‘clapper’! Once I decided this must be done… Stitch 56 popped up with a 20% off special so I went bananas and purchased the Angela Wolf pattern (because I love the back of these jeans – they look potentially awesome), the DVD and a clapper – which is apparently the bees’ knees for pressing seams…

Angela Wolf pattern, DVD & clapper

Angela Wolf pattern, DVD & clapper – I don’t know what I was thinking with the DVD I rarely have time to sit still for that long!

I’d love to tell you I’m a jeans guru… although I’ve dedicated my life to wearing them, I’m sorry to say that I’m a novice jeans-maker, so bear with me! And you know, feel free to laugh at me if needed!

I think the spirit of this challenge is to muck in together and heave ourselves up the jeans mountain!

I’m making up a blog button – check back here soon… and I’ll keep you updated on my progress, I’ll review the Angela Wolf pattern & DVD… and watch this space… and GingerMakes is joining the charge! Are you?

So are you up for Jeans in June & July? What will you sew?

Tag your Twitter & Instagram with #JeansJJ
Sorry I’ve abandoned Flickr for tonight – apart from the weirdos it attracts, you now need a Yahoo account… seriously Flickr? I can live without you. I will set up a group for the non-Instagrammers but I’ll need to try another browser when I’m not so tired. Yahoo is being poo-poo tonight.

Let me know if you are sewing up jeans – comment below or send me an email and I’ll create a master list of everyone – blog links included where available.

AND THE PAPERCUT PATTERNS BELLATRIX BLAZER…

Oh yes… I made the Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer…

It morphed into a ‘statement jacket’… I’m actually wondering what the hell I was thinking, it’s not so much as a statement as it makes my eyeballs bleed… anyways here it is…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, front view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, front view. The jacket has these cute little single welt pockets tucked into the peplum – and are a breeze to sew. I used the black sateen for the welts to match the lapel.

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, back view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, back view. This could have done with shoulder pads… I can’t believe I typed that…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, side view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, side view

It’s just a humble print cotton sateen with lapels in black sateen. I’ve lined it with a vivid aqua silk (sorry bit blurry – late at night and using my iPhone #tiredblogger)

Bellatrix Blazer details

Bellatrix Blazer details. Clockwise from left: Lining, sleeve facings, sleeve shaping

The Sleeves…
I did find the sleeve heads a bit of a struggle to fit into the body & I was very glad my fabric had some stretch – I needed it!
The hems of the sleeves are slightly curved (and have a sleeve hem facing) and I love how they sit on my wrists/hands.
The instructions have you hand sew the lining to the sleeve facings. Since I’ve figured out how to machine finish sleeve hems, I choose to machine these. Really it’s the simplest way to finish sleeve hems.

The Pattern…
You really do need to buy at least one Papercut Pattern in your sewing life. Beautifully presented, unique packaging, sturdy paper, good instructions… yes expensive but the price includes postage anywhere in the world. You know you want too…

Overall Verdict on Papercut Patterns Bellatrix…
This is quite an easy jacket sew.
I think the sizing runs large – I made up the XXS and it feels the right length but is very generous around my frame.
The sleeves are a bit tricky – so watch out for that.
OMG there is a lot of interfacing. I think it would be easier to block fuse a lot of your fabric. Pretty much it’s just the back and sleeves that are not interfaced. It does make for a nice finish though.
I usually love cropped jackets but I think I’d prefer this in the longer length on me.
I think I’d like it in a solid colour as much as this is crazy fun (oh dear I must be getting sensible in my old age *sigh*).

I still want a bomber jacket…

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer
Fabric: Cotton Sateen from Spotlight. Lining: Silk from Spotlight.
Also see: Let’s Tweed Again | Gingermakes | Handmade by Heather B | Girls in the Garden | Very Purple Person | Mercury Handmade Fashion (she has made it many many times – all gorgeous | Jolies Bobines | Alida Makes | alas I’m too tired to keep linking! There are so many out there – go to Google Images and search for Bellatrix Blazer… get inspired.

SBL LIFE UPDATE
Life’s been hideously busy, I’m overtired and just generally feel like I’m stretching myself in a million directions for everyone else… I’ve booked some days away all by myself so I can unwind. I’m on a countdown – 29 days to go… not sure I’ll be sane by then…