Flutter Tunic, Papercut Patterns

I didn’t expect to knock out another Papercut Patterns project so quickly… but when the inspiration strikes, one must sew along with it… meet my new Flutter Tunic (with a little bit of grrrrr)

Papercut Patterns, Flutter tunic, front view

Flutter Tunic, front view

This is a garment shape that people either love and shy away from. One of the responses I have had to this is “grrrrrrr” which is apparently manspeak for “sexy“. Not quite the response I anticipated to a loose & simple dress.

I planned to make the Flutter blouse – then I spotted this blue/blue/white splatter print rayon ottoman suiting in my stash… and it just seemed the obvious choice for the tunic. I love this fabric, it’s got a bit of weight to it yet has a nice drape.

Papercut Patterns Flutter tunic, side view

Flutter tunic, side view

I added 1.5 inches to the length as it seemed a little saucy… and then cut it off when I finished the tunic – perhaps I’m a hussy at heart after all 🙂 The added length transformed the  ‘flutter’ into a ‘feedsack’. On my frame and height, the loose silhouette needs to be balanced by a shorter length. I turned the hem up by 1.25 inches. I’m an un-statuesque 5 foot 4 if that helps with your future Flutter tunic length decisions.

THE PATTERN

The tunic has French darts to provide some shape to the boxy body. The shoulders are dropped, the sleeves are flared and the back hem dips slightly.

Flutter tunic - Papercut Patterns package

Flutter tunic – Papercut Patterns package (in the background is a hoarded silk I’m thinking about turning into a Summer Flutter Tunic…

My fabric is rather ‘busy’ so here is the line art so you can see the detail.

Flutter tunic - Papercut Patterns: line art, measurements and fabric requirements

Flutter tunic – Papercut Patterns: line art, measurements and fabric requirements

This is an easy sew… the most work is the bias binding on the neckline, which in this fabric was not at all fiddly and was easy to achieve a nice neat finish. I didn’t have quite enough fabric to cut the strip on the bias… so I cut it on the ‘semi bias’ ie at an angle but not quite 45 degrees… it seemed to work, probably helped along by the agreeable nature of the fabric.

Back neck detail

Back neck detail, finished with self-fabric bias binding. Sorry, pattern matching impossibility with this one!

THOUGHTS

  • This is an easy garment to make. There are a couple of darts, you set the sleeves in flat (then sew up the side seams all in one go) and the hem only has a slight curve to it. The neckline is finished with a bias strip. You could do this in a contrast fabric or trim as per the pattern envelope.
  • I didn’t expect to love this quite as much as I do. It’s one of the strangely fabulous garments to wear. I stitched it up with a sickening ‘sack dress anxiety’ sensation and got a big surprise when I put it on! I’m wearing it out to a work dinner tonight.
  • I like the wide neckline with the v-back.

    This wide deep neckline is growing on me...

    This wide deep neckline is growing on me…

  • Yes it is short… however as it is straight there is no ‘oops’ that can happen with the Saiph circle skirt tunic in a sea breeze (which happened once… in front of a bunch of bikies… seriously).
  • I can imagine wearing this with leggings, a long scarf and a light, loose wool jacket on colder days. I think it would make a gorgeous summer dress as well in a different fabric.
  • I suspect some people will be tempted to add shape to this silhouette with some darts or a belt… however I love it as is. I think the loose shape works in a shorter length. The legs get enough attention without drawing more attention to the rest of my figure. This is definitely ‘all about the legs’ garment for me.

DETAILS
Pattern: Papercut Patterns, Flutter Tunic/Top. I made the tunic in XXS, choosing my size based on bust measurement, no grading for my XS hips. I left the length as drafted, I am 5 foot 4.
Fabric: 1.5m Rayon Ottoman Suiting from Spotlight, Australia. About $15 per metre, I think I scooped this up during a 30% or 40% off sale.
Necklace: Jellystones
Boots: Avani, Duo Boots

Also see: Beautyfull Handmade Tunic & Blouse | High tea & Hydrangeas Tunic & Blouse | Jolies Bobines Blouse

GIVEAWAY
(now closed – thank you for your interest!)
Katie from Papercut Patterns has generously offered to send one of my readers a Papercut Pattern of their choice – anywhere in the world – thanks Katie!

Just let me know the comments below if you would like to be included in the giveaway draw! (giveaway is now closed. Closed on Sunday 6 July, 6pm – Australian Eastern Standard Time). My Sway Dress and Flutter Tunic are from the recently released Chameleon range. The full Papercut Patterns range is available here.

Note: Papercut Patterns provided this pattern for preview purposes. All opinions my own. No affiliate links in this post.

Papercut Patterns, Flutter tunic, side view

These photos were taken in Port Macquarie, at the end of the ‘eat street’ in the CBD.

This post first appeared on http://www.sewbusylizzy.com

Sway Dress, a simple LBD – Papercut Patterns

Recently I sent Katie at Papercut Patterns an email because I was searching (unsuccessfully) for a copy of the Pleated Pants pattern and noticed that it was sold out online.

Katie let me know that it was indeed out of print (*sobs* she who hesitates is patternless). Then she told me she had a new trouser pattern coming out and would I be interested in trying it… well… yes!

Sway Dress by Papercut Patterns

Sway Dress

I know this is not even nearly a pair of trousers… Katie sent me a few patterns and I was swayed by the Sway Dress immediately. I know. I get distracted easily. #squirrel

Why? It’s a very simple dress and often I’m drawn to patterns with details or unusual shapes (hello Drape Drape). However it is something that I could see myself wearing in a solid or a floral. Dressed up and dressed down. While I wear a lot of fitted sheath dresses to work, so I tend to prefer softer, loosely fitted styles when I’m not at work. I guess I just feel more relaxed in them.

Swingin' in the Sway

Swingin’ in the Sway

While I had planned to make this is a floral, when I stumbled across this strange micro-pleated woven fabric in Spotlight it just seemed perfect… and on a bargain table!

I chose not to create a self-fabric belt – mainly because of the pleats in the fabric. I felt having the pleats run one way down my body and then another way across my waist would have been distracting. So I’ve used a black satin ribbon instead. This fabric does not fray at all so I let the dress hang for 24 hours and then re-cut the hem so it was straight (it did drop all over the place). Yes you read that right – no hem on this LBD.

I don’t like these photos. I’m just so tired at the moment. Everything feels a little blah and I had horrid hair after a morning at the beach – seaspray is not my hair’s friend. That’s life though – and we are here for the dress not me LOL. If I don’t blog now – who knows when I’ll do some more photos!

Sway Dress - back

Sway Dress – back neckline. Not a great picture but this is just to show the shape of the back neck (you can wear the dress either way)

FACINGS…

I used black tricot for the facings, interfaced with a light tricot interfacing. Yes I said facings… and like my Top with Epaulettes I think this is a superior way to finish this particular dress rather than bias binding.

As the dress is sleeveless, the facing is attached using one of those Houdini methods… you know those type of sewing steps when if you haven’t done it before, you read the instructions, google, re-read the instructions… take a deep breath and then sew. If you have sewn a button-up shirt using the yoke burrito method (as seen here on the Grainline blog)… then I think you will master this technique easily. While the yoke is different, you do rolled the dress over to one side and then wrap the shoulder around the dress – I know, sounds weird but works perfectly. While I could demonstrate this on my blog, there are plenty of bloggers who have already done so – so check out Poppykettle for starters. My lovely friend Marjorie in Brisbane also emailed me a tutorial as well – so this was easy – just needed a little sewing faith.

BELT LOOPS…

Rather than making self-fabric belt loops I created thread loops. I had not made these before… however thread loops are SERIOUSLY the simplest thing to create. I cut six lengths of Gutermann thread (just my normal thread) I tied a knot at one end. Then I set my machine to a zig-zag stitch with the width at 3 and length at 1. I held the threads behind and in front of my machine foot with a light tension and away I went. Yes, it’s that easy.

sewing thread loops

my first self-made thread loops

I found this tutorial on Coletterie very helpful.

THOUGHTS…

It’s such a simple dress, four pattern pieces. Sometimes that’s just what I love to wear the most – very simple clothes that fit (loosely) and flatter – that’s enough more days than not. This is one of those dresses where you can let the fabric sing. Now I want one in a floral (of course). You can bet there will be exactly that in my summer wardrobe this year.

An amazingly quick and gratifying make. I love the neckline and you can wear it either way. I love the V-neck, it’s not too deep or too wide.

This dress has a front and back centre seam. I did think about eliminating them – however with this fabric you can’t see the seams so I chose to leave them.

I love Papercut Patterns. I’ve actually got quite a collection, I just haven’t had a chance to sew them all, except the Saiph Tunic and the Bellatrix Blazer.

The patterns come in a sturdy cardboard package, the pattern photo can be removed from the package… where you will discover all the measurements and fabric requirements. These really do look and feel like excellent value for money – the sort of pattern you keep and display on your shelf. Check them out here.

The patterns are easy to trace and the instructions are thorough without being too wordy. You can cut up the pattern and cerate a booklet from the instruction section of the sheet – however I can’t bear to cut these lovely patterns up.

STILL TO COME…

The Guise Pants (traced). I was initially a little hesitant about these – the back waist is elastic however I’ve seen some great reviews (Gingermakes and Jolies Bobines – and I am going to try them. In basic black. I’ve also cut out the Flutter Tunic .

GIVEAWAY TO COME…

Katie has offered a Papercut pattern as a giveaway – I’m a little tired this week so let’s do it with my next Papercut make! Watch this space.

Pattern: Sway Dress by Papercut Patterns, I made XXS cut to the longer hemline.
Fabric: Mystery woven from Spotlight (bargain table)
Shoes: Urban Soul (I do love these crazy shows but they have a history so I’m not overly fond of them… #itscomplicated – chosen by Miss 10 for these photos). I really need a pair of classic black patent heels… I got distracted last shoe shopping trip… it happens #squirrel

Note: Papercut Patterns provided this pattern for preview purposes. All opinions my own. No affiliate links in this post.

This post first appeared on http://www.sewbusylizzy.com

Drop Waist: Take 2, Papercut Saiph inspired Burda 7056

So while the jury is out on SBL vs the drop-waist look. I decided to try another ‘Saiph inspired’ make. Yes, another drop waist and a circle skirt.

I wanted to try out another drop-waisted look, this time with a more fitted bodice.

So I turned to my bulging pattern & fabric stash to see what might be a contender.

Burda 7056

Burda 7056

I chose Burda 7056, described as “No-frill dresses for the confident woman, being the focus. All slightly flared, fitted at the back waist, shoulders left exposed“. I liked the more fitted but slightly a-line shape, with fitting provided by bust darts and back fish-eye darts. I added this pattern to the stash quite some time ago, I love the maxi version, and I also love the combination of high neckline and cut-away shoulders. There are not too many blogged versions out there – except for the lovely new-to-me blog bernie and i who has made it several times!

The fabric is a cotton sateen from a Spotlight bargain table for a princely $3 a metre. I adore the vivid blue & white. The large regular pattern is fun but not easy to sew with as you will see later!

Here’s what happened…

Burda 7056 with Saiph-inspired drop-waist and skirt modification.

Burda 7056 with Saiph-inspired drop-waist and skirt modification. It was blowing a gale on this day we had to find a headland out of the wind (almost impossible to get out of the wind anywhere some days – so the dress looks slightly distorted in this picture and my bra strap has popped out – that’s life. And yes, it’s TOO SHORT! My waist is at the ‘ellipses’ travelling horizontally around the dress.

I cut the dress pattern off at about ‘Saiph’ bodice length. I sewed the bodice together, attaching the facings, which are great and don’t flip out at all due to the style of the dress, and put in the zip. The zip is a long centre back invisible zip.

To draft the circle skirt piece, I measured the finished bodice circumference. I then simply googled ‘circle calculator circumference, find radius’. Low and behold a little box popped up and I was away. This provided the radius & I used my daughter’s school compass to draft the dropped waistline of the circle skirt piece.

I simply pulled out the Saiph skirt pattern piece and used that as my guide for the outer hemline. I know, string, fishing line, makeshift compass, la la la – the pattern piece was there and a circle is a circle is a circle.

Burda 7056 with Saiph-inspired drop-waist and skirt modification.

Burda 7056 with Saiph-inspired drop-waist and skirt modification. Not sure if it’s looking ‘hippy’ possibly yes. or if the cut-away shoulders help balance it out.

Now clearly it’s a little short. Actually no. It’s a lot too short! Despite the ‘frisky’ length I’m pleased with the make. It was an interesting process… and that’s why I sew, to experiment and have fun. I could have not blogged it due to it’s length – but it’s part of my current obsession with shifts, shapes and more – I’ll just run the risk of you thinking me a ‘tart’. At some point I’ll reach the caboose of this sewing journey so forgive any hints of SBL caboose in the meantime. It’s part of the success/disaster of sewing.

Burda 7056 with Saiph-inspired drop-waist and skirt modification.

Burda 7056 with Saiph-inspired drop-waist and skirt modification.

Apart from the length, I’m not in love with the only front bodice shaping being the bust darts. Probably because this is a slightly heavier cotton sateen, I don’t like how the dress lies between my bust and the skirt – which you can also see in the white feather hem version on the pattern envelope. I don’t want this to be super fitted all through the length of my body but I think some waist shaping at the front of the bodice around the waist would be nice. That said, I think it’s great as is if it made up as just a shift dress, in fact I think it’s rather a terrific pattern for a shift.

Burda 7056 with Saiph-inspired drop-waist and skirt modification.

Burda 7056 with Saiph-inspired drop-waist and skirt modification.

If you are wondering about pattern placement… with a pattern this big it was always going to be challenging… and probably why this fabric sat in my stash so long. I love the vivid blue of this fabric but those ‘flowers’ and ‘leaves’ were challenging. I actually attached the skirt, removed it and reattached it… and I think you will agree the second try was much better!

Pattern placement = hilarious.

Pattern placement = hilarious.

so pleased to have provided a moment of mirth for you…

Like the Saiph, ELH rather likes this dress . He said “I think you should wear that dress… a lot”.

I’m now planning SBL & the Drop Waist No.3… why not… I’m having fun!

Oh and I forgot to mention last post… we have a new addition to the family… meet Midge…

Midge - the new bubba. Yes that's a Chihuahua.

Midge – the new bubba. Yes that’s a Chihuahua. Yes he is the same colour and has the same markings as Banjo – he’s twice as feisty though!

I’m betting you have now forgotten I made a dress. LOL. This post came so fast after the last post because I was pinned to the lounge by the sleeping puppy (he’s a genuine lap dog this one) so typed it up on my iPhone and read Japanese sewing books!

And here is a beach…

Photos taken at the northern headland of this gorgeous beach - Shelly. One of my favourite places and views in Port Macquarie.

Photos taken at the northern headland of this gorgeous beach – Shelly. One of my favourite places and views in Port Macquarie. Many of our beaches are ‘in town’ yet you don’t see a house – I love that.

Pattern: Burda 7056 with Papercut Saiph inspired modifications.
Fabric: Cotton Sateen from Spotlight (about $5 worth of fabric here!)

Trying New Shapes, Papercut Saiph

Lately I’ve become intrigued with trying ‘new stuff’. New patterns, different techniques and shapes.

I’ve always loved something different – even if it’s not something I fall in love with or adopt as ‘my thing’. I’m simply interested in experimenting. To me this is the huge appeal of sewing and blogging. I find the thought process, the making and subsequent photography fascinating to analyze something new. I’m ok if it doesn’t work, I’m just curious to try.

Papercut Saiph Tunic - it's loose!

Papercut Saiph Tunic – it’s loose! The armholes are also a little large. I finished these with white bias binding

I’m the first to admit that I skimmed right on over the Papercut Saiph tunic when it was released. I found it a little shapeless for my taste and was rather bamboozled that it was called a ‘tunic’ but presented as a dress. The length also seemed SUPER short.

The ‘drop waist’ was also a deterrent as I’ve only ever worn that style as a school uniform – which I always referred to as the ‘H Line’.

Papercut Saiph Tunic - back view

Papercut Saiph Tunic – back view

Then as I looked towards summer (if it should ever really arrive…) the appeal of shifts, sacks & shapelessness reared its head. Suddenly I wanted to try new styles & shapes that I traditionally shied away from. So perhaps expect The Summer of the Shift from me. The timelessness of ‘the shift’ interests me. And well… I can’t explain my fascination with sacks…

However a few Top Notch posts triggered my curiosity and I finally gave in. Then low-and-behold Rachel of House of Pinheiro popped up with her glamorous one photographed in than Paris while mine was winging it’s way over the seas from New Zealand.

I decided to make my Saiph as designed. No fitting alterations. The Full Sack if you like! I wanted to see if me and sack dresses could be friends.

That’s not to say that this dress doesn’t have any shaping. It has French darts which are an interesting and fun addition.

Papercut Saiph Tunic - inside (sorry heading off to Sydney for a shibori workshop - no time to iron! #badblogger)

Papercut Saiph Tunic – inside – I was heading off to Sydney for a shibori workshop – no time to iron! #badblogger

But what to make it in?? I decided I wanted something with some weight but drape…. and remembered the rayon viscose ottoman suiting range at Spotlight. I’d always wonder what on earth to make with it but it seemed the perfect choice for this. It’s lovely to sew with I must say!

These were the options and I decided to go with the more graphic black/white/red fabric (I love it when Instagram polling matching up your gut instinct!).

Papercut Saiph Tunic - material options

Papercut Saiph Tunic – material options

I made the XXS and added an inch to the ‘waist’ as I am quite long waisted. I also cut the skirt length to XL as I’d read how short this design was. I omitted the sleeves as I saw this as a summer dress option.

Nothing terribly exciting to tell you about construction. I ended up lopping 1/2 inch off the skirt as the extra length seemed to exaggerate the roominess of the dress on me. I finished it with a rolled hem – not using my machine foot as this fabric was quite heavy.

I used a piece of thin black cord (ratstail – the sort you can use to make piping). I created a little loop and sewed this into the seam where the facing mets the shell at the back neck opening. I think it’s a nice little detail however it is also strong and quick to create!

Papercut Saiph Tunic - button closure

Papercut Saiph Tunic – button closure

I don’t think the Saiph translates well in photographs – not on me. I really don’t. That said, it is lovely to wear and ELH commented as he took the photographs… “I’m not sure if it’s supposed to be but it’s strangely sexy”. Perhaps it’s the shorter length with the flippy full circle skirt or the way it swings and floats around the body, hinting rather than revealing… it’s a mystery. OR ELH has a penchant for sacks?

Papercut Saiph Tunic/Dress

Papercut Saiph Tunic/Dress

I’m glad I made it, I do think in cotton it would make a great summer dress/tunic. Super cool, loose & feminine. I think it could be cute in wool with long-sleeves and tights in winter…

This image is ‘blown out’ due to the bright sunshine but I popped it in as it is one of the few without my hand on my hips – must have been unconsciously searching for myself in this loose-fitting dress!

Papercut Saiph Tunic - front view

Papercut Saiph Tunic – front view.

I’m not sure I’m sold on the Saiph – which isn’t to say that I wouldn’t make it again as I think I have space in my life for loose summer dresses. This make got me curious and I experimented with another idea… coming to a blog soon!

Pattern: Papercut Saiph Tunic
Fabric: Viscose Rayon Ottoman

Papercut Patterns Bellatrix and Jeans in June

JEANS IN JUNE & JULY

I’ve been busting to write this post & suddenly nearly half a year has zoomed by… and hello? It’s June??

I wear jeans a lot – I’ve often written about my love of denim… there is no such thing as too much in my opinion. They regularly pop up in my posts…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns

me in jeans… and on the beach… again… yes that’s a new jacket… a Bellatrix… keep reading…

I’d set myself a deadline to sew Jeans in June. As I’ve got so much on my schedule, I’ve decided to be kind to myself – and you! – and launch a Jeans in June & July Challenge!

Jeans seem to be the ultimate sewing challenge for so many people – and I’m arrogantly convinced they ain’t that hard, I just need a reason to take them on (yes I’m now waiting to fall flat on my face – pride cometh before the fall, blah, blah, blah).

So here’s my Jeans in June & July Challenge pledge. I’ll stitch up Named Patterns Jamie Jeans… and Angela Wolf Bootcut Jeans. I’m committed – I’ve even got a real ‘clapper’! Once I decided this must be done… Stitch 56 popped up with a 20% off special so I went bananas and purchased the Angela Wolf pattern (because I love the back of these jeans – they look potentially awesome), the DVD and a clapper – which is apparently the bees’ knees for pressing seams…

Angela Wolf pattern, DVD & clapper

Angela Wolf pattern, DVD & clapper – I don’t know what I was thinking with the DVD I rarely have time to sit still for that long!

I’d love to tell you I’m a jeans guru… although I’ve dedicated my life to wearing them, I’m sorry to say that I’m a novice jeans-maker, so bear with me! And you know, feel free to laugh at me if needed!

I think the spirit of this challenge is to muck in together and heave ourselves up the jeans mountain!

I’m making up a blog button – check back here soon… and I’ll keep you updated on my progress, I’ll review the Angela Wolf pattern & DVD… and watch this space… and GingerMakes is joining the charge! Are you?

So are you up for Jeans in June & July? What will you sew?

Tag your Twitter & Instagram with #JeansJJ
Sorry I’ve abandoned Flickr for tonight – apart from the weirdos it attracts, you now need a Yahoo account… seriously Flickr? I can live without you. I will set up a group for the non-Instagrammers but I’ll need to try another browser when I’m not so tired. Yahoo is being poo-poo tonight.

Let me know if you are sewing up jeans – comment below or send me an email and I’ll create a master list of everyone – blog links included where available.

AND THE PAPERCUT PATTERNS BELLATRIX BLAZER…

Oh yes… I made the Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer…

It morphed into a ‘statement jacket’… I’m actually wondering what the hell I was thinking, it’s not so much as a statement as it makes my eyeballs bleed… anyways here it is…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, front view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, front view. The jacket has these cute little single welt pockets tucked into the peplum – and are a breeze to sew. I used the black sateen for the welts to match the lapel.

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, back view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, back view. This could have done with shoulder pads… I can’t believe I typed that…

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, side view

Bellatrix Blazer by Papercut Patterns, side view

It’s just a humble print cotton sateen with lapels in black sateen. I’ve lined it with a vivid aqua silk (sorry bit blurry – late at night and using my iPhone #tiredblogger)

Bellatrix Blazer details

Bellatrix Blazer details. Clockwise from left: Lining, sleeve facings, sleeve shaping

The Sleeves…
I did find the sleeve heads a bit of a struggle to fit into the body & I was very glad my fabric had some stretch – I needed it!
The hems of the sleeves are slightly curved (and have a sleeve hem facing) and I love how they sit on my wrists/hands.
The instructions have you hand sew the lining to the sleeve facings. Since I’ve figured out how to machine finish sleeve hems, I choose to machine these. Really it’s the simplest way to finish sleeve hems.

The Pattern…
You really do need to buy at least one Papercut Pattern in your sewing life. Beautifully presented, unique packaging, sturdy paper, good instructions… yes expensive but the price includes postage anywhere in the world. You know you want too…

Overall Verdict on Papercut Patterns Bellatrix…
This is quite an easy jacket sew.
I think the sizing runs large – I made up the XXS and it feels the right length but is very generous around my frame.
The sleeves are a bit tricky – so watch out for that.
OMG there is a lot of interfacing. I think it would be easier to block fuse a lot of your fabric. Pretty much it’s just the back and sleeves that are not interfaced. It does make for a nice finish though.
I usually love cropped jackets but I think I’d prefer this in the longer length on me.
I think I’d like it in a solid colour as much as this is crazy fun (oh dear I must be getting sensible in my old age *sigh*).

I still want a bomber jacket…

Pattern: Papercut Patterns Bellatrix Blazer
Fabric: Cotton Sateen from Spotlight. Lining: Silk from Spotlight.
Also see: Let’s Tweed Again | Gingermakes | Handmade by Heather B | Girls in the Garden | Very Purple Person | Mercury Handmade Fashion (she has made it many many times – all gorgeous | Jolies Bobines | Alida Makes | alas I’m too tired to keep linking! There are so many out there – go to Google Images and search for Bellatrix Blazer… get inspired.

SBL LIFE UPDATE
Life’s been hideously busy, I’m overtired and just generally feel like I’m stretching myself in a million directions for everyone else… I’ve booked some days away all by myself so I can unwind. I’m on a countdown – 29 days to go… not sure I’ll be sane by then…