The Battle of Hazel: Part 2

Hazel and I are becoming wary friends at the moment.

Colette Hazel: Muslin Take 2

Colette Hazel: Muslin Take 2

This is my Colette Hazel Muslin: Take 2.Colette Hazel Muslin: Take 1 was a disaster of baggy proportions.So with much stitch ripping, pinning and tucking we now have Colette Hazel Muslin: Take 2.I think this is much better – still lots of little fiddly fitting to do but I’m much more pleased with this one.I took about an inch out of each side of the back and then angled the side seams in just a tiny bit at the top to help pull in the gape across my bust.

I also moved the straps in about half an inch on the front. They still don’t sit perfectly but they are not quite as scary.

The inside finishing on this muslin is less than spectacular. I have no intention of wearing this, it really is a muslin! I hate how you can see the pockets and the facing through the fabric. I can be picky about weird things. I want pockets but I want them to be my little secret – this probably explains my love of the Tardis Skirt.

I have not bothered with the hem – this little number is just about finally conquering a Colette pattern!

I was quite stupid and did not think to take some fabric out of the back skirt to reflect the change in the bodice back. I think the back of the skirt is too full. So I have a slightly puffy midriff and a much puffier bottom! I’m wondering whether this would work with more of a pencil skirt, then I would need to install a back vent so I would walk properly and not ‘mince’. I might just be making life hard for myself – because if I changed it to a pencil skirt I would insert a band at the midriff with stripes moving in different direction just for ‘fun’ and to have the skirt starting closer to my natural waist. Or maybe more of an a-line skirt?

And then it really would not be a Colette Hazel any more, would it?!

I really didn’t like the gathered skirt. I felt that the bodice was quite short and the gathers kinda ‘puffed out’ over the rest of me. So I experimented and put four pleats in the front and back of the skirt. It’s still puffy but I think it’s an improvement on the gathers. Ever Lovin’ Hubby pointed out perhaps the pleats should be pointing the other direction and that might minimise the puffiness over the stomach area. Perhaps darts?

I’m still not thrilled with the dress but I do think it would look much better in a fabric with a more drape, this cotton is a little stiff for the job. I would also prefer a slightly darker fabric as well. I have seen a nice striped shirting fabric which would work…

I’ve always just thrown patterns aside and written them off a loss if it doesn’t fit straight off the machine. However this little battle with Hazel has taught me…

  1. that is it possible to tailor sewing patterns to fit you better.
  2. unpicking things and sewing them back together is loads of fun in a very weird way.
  3. I love hand sewing at night.
  4. I have more confidence to tackle the Colette Sewing Handbook patterns now. After this little battle with Hazel, I think I can make Pastille into a very cute wearable shift and I have a lovely cotton sateen for the job!

I think I might make a skirt next rather than launch another attack on Hazel, although I do hope that this battle concludes as a successful trilogy!

I’ve very tired (three hours folding clothes for the school fete second-hand clothing stall will do that to you after five days at work). So it will be either Simplicity 2451 in view D if I’m too tired for anything more challenging or Rachel Comey’s Vogue 1170 if I think I can manage it. This is all dependent on waking up with more energy tomorrow to start tracing the patterns – unfortunately I do have to spend the day manning the second-hand clothing stall at school and packing up (and all the clothes are hideous, people donate such rubbish – or just have bad taste I guess!)…

Argh, horrid photos. I am so not a morning person… excuse some of the puckers and whatnot, I was standing very lopsided on our very steep front garden in very stupid shoes.

Colette Hazel - back (Take 2 muslin)

Colette Hazel – back (Take 2 muslin)

Colette Hazel bodice: Muslin Part 2

Colette Hazel bodice: Muslin Part 2

OPERA DILEMMA

OPINIONS WELCOME…

I work at a cultural centre called the Glasshouse (theatre, gallery, heritage displays, visitor information centre, shop and whatnot). Yes very cool. It also provides me with a rather more relaxed approach to office wear. Some days I’m quite corporate, other days I’m a bit more ‘arty’.

Anyway I’m in the middle of organising a ‘best dressed’ competition for August when Opera Australia’s Oz Opera presents Mozart’s Don Giovanni at our place. We figure everyone loves an excuse to dress up and given the opportunity for going OTT is fairly limited, we decided to provide one.

Now I can’t win the competition but it’s a lovely excuse to sew something ‘fancy’. And it’s very important to set a good example don’t you think?

Don Giovanni is the bad boy of the opera world. He is naughty naughty naughty. And this production has been set in 1950 Italy. Sexy, stylish and decadent. So I figure it’s time to go to town in the ‘dress stakes’.

Here’s the current ‘hero’ shot for the production.

Don Giovanni

Don Giovanni

I had thought to make up this 1950s Simplicity retro pattern. The era is in keeping with Don G

Now I’m thinking I might get a bit lost in all that fabric and end up looking like a matchstick in a marquee.

So I’m thinking more along the lines of…

I like how the blouse combines with the dress and jacket! This pattern is a retro 1930s Vogue, pre-dates the setting of the production. So chic though, I think it’s gorgeous!! But would be turn me into ‘stick girl’?

or circa 1950…

but not in green – I think I would look like a slick of snot if I did not get the right green so it would have to be a different colour. I love love love how this coat is reversible!

I think this is quite simply smokin’.

The more I look at this one the more I think it might create some curves and highlight my waist – which helps the rest of the curves look curvier. It’s ‘advanced’ which is scary but I’m pretty competent handsewer so perhaps a muslin or two might pay off – and some practice sleeves. Also prefer this in one colour. Several dresses on Pattern Review have been done with contrasting sleeves but I like the simplicity of one colour with all that detail – not red though as I am sallow and red turns me yellow. Not such a good look. Perhaps if I made it a tad longer or the skirt was a little neater around the calves? Will need a wrap as August nights are cold and our foyer is vicious on a chilly night.

Love this coat but what to wear underneath?

Found this cute little coat pattern on eBay that I think I could turn into an ‘opera coat’… but again… what to wear underneath?

And I spotted this on ebay… amazing… too big (and expensive) for me but wow!

Vintage Opera Coat & Dress on ebay

waaaaay too expensive!

Are you as bamboozled as me?

Ideas anyone??

Other patterns suggestions welcome too!

Conquering the Hazel fit!

Colette Hazel, size 0, waaay too big

Colette Hazel, size 0, waaay too big

Unlike Colette Peony – which I tossed aside in a snit – I am determined to beat Colette Hazel into submission.The day started out well. Mother’s Day – breakfast in bed, cups of tea, presents and a walk on the beach. We are only a couple of week away from winter and I wore my Stamp of Approval dress (with a white belt on loan from Miss 9) and bare feet. The kids and the dog swam. It’s odd weather, it’s been warmer the last couple of days than it was during summer!

This afternoon I trotted off to the sewing room to tackle Hazel. She bit back.

This is my muslin, my very baggy muslin. I suspected that I was going to have major fit issues as my last two outings with Colette have been very ‘confrontational’ in my little sewing room. Poor old Homer in a Muu-muu has been watching on aghast. The muslins have not made it to this blog. In fairness Crepe is not too bad, probably because it’s a wrap, but Peony is horrid.

The fabric for my Hazel muslin is a cheap cotton that was on sale at Spotlight so it was not a big investment (or loss given the result). It is pretty though and I wanted to try this dress with stripes as the bodice lends itself to stripes in a very flattering way otherwise you might as well use any old summer dress pattern…. I think it would look great… if you can get it to fit…

Colette Hazel, size 0. Hello! there is a huge gape at front

Colette Hazel, size 0. Hello! there is a huge gape at front

The zip is not an invisible one like the pattern suggests. I just used one that I rescued prior to throwing out one of my daughters’ old threadbare school uniforms. It’sjust a zip and it doesn’t impact on the fit, clearly.I acknowledge that I am a small person. I’m 5 foot 4 which is pretty average but the rest of me is slight – or perhaps better described as skinny. I’m not boasting or moaning, its just a fact of life that I am naturally built like this, I do zero exercise and don’t diet. Yes you can start throwing rocks now, I’m used to dodging them. Many kind people constantly comment on how ‘skinny’ I am, questioning my eating habits and how I look like my dog… I’ve got a whippet. Yes, I’m blessed to have so many people keep my ego in check. Anyway, moving on to more important issues like fitting clothing my seemingly sparrow’s rib cage.

I know that my frame is small but I am always very surprised at the size of Colette Patterns. This is a size 0. It’s huge.

Fit problems:-

  1. It’s gaping badly across the top of my bust – but it seems to fit nicely across my bust.
  2. It’s huge in the waist and across my back.
  3. The straps are whacko. I took them up but I think my shoulders are too narrow for the placement of the straps. I often buy the smallest size in jackets to get them to fit across my puny shoulders. The strap buckling stops if I move them further out to the edge of my shoulders – where they fall off all the time. Very stylish.
  4. I put a belt on with it as I think that, given how high the waist sits, the light gathering of the skirt just doesn’t work. It just not flattering – on me anyway.

In the past I would have just chucked it to the side and written it off as a total loss. Thanks to all the sewing blogs out there and all the sewing alongs and sewing parties I have watched on the blogging sidelines, I realise that fitting doesn’t have to seem like tackling Mt Everest (or a molehill in my case).

So here’s my Colette Hazel fitting plan…

Colette Hazel, size 0, pinned back
Colette Hazel, size 0, pinned back
  1. Take a wedge out of the bodice centre to counteract the massive gaping at the front across the top.
  2. Take about an inch out of each side of the back.
  3. Move the straps in a bit at the front or set them in straight rather than at an angle.
  4. Consider changing the skirt from gathered to pleats.
  5. The stripes need more contrast

I’ve got a little weird wacky plan bubbling away in the back of my mind for this pattern. It could be a complete failure but I want to get this pattern to work as I think the panels of the bodice could be used as a base to dress up this little dress in quite a unique way.

Before I get ahead of myself I have to conquer the fit first! Evil plans must come second.

I have been most envious of all the Me Made May 12 stitchers wearing their creations. I just didn’t feel like I could participate – even in a small way because I have so little sewn by me at this early stage. So this year I am watching… and waiting… I am proud though that yesterday I wore my beloved Tardis Skirt (Vogue 1247, how I love this skirt! I must take a better picture) and today I wore my Stamp of Approval (Simplicity 2209) dress and tomorrow I plan to wear my Four Foot Dress (Simplicity 2060). I guess it’s my Me Made May 12 blip on a radar!

In the meantime I think I have pinned the muslin into submission – does this look better??

Colette Hazel, size 0, after being pinned into submission
Colette Hazel, size 0, after being pinned into submission – pins in the front as well!
 

Back to work tomorrow for another five days in the hamster mill and this week I am thinking ‘what to make to wear to the opera’. Open to suggestions, watch out for the post in a few days! I need a new challenge…

THE FOUR FOOT DRESS…

I’m embarrassed to admit it but I’m pretty pleased with myself.

LIsette Itinerary Dress, Simplicity 2060

This is Simplicity 2060 aka the Lisette Itinerary Dress View 2.

I’ve called it “My Four Foot Dress’ and I’m rather happy about the result. Can you tell from that smug self-satisfied look?

Like the Lisette Passport Dress, it’s not a complicated affair but if you score a smokin’ fabric combination I would rather let the fabric sing than a complicated pattern.

I like this little pattern and I like the fabric combination I’ve chosen. And I can’t wait to wear it… somewhere, anywhere! I had planned to wear it to work today to show off however the weather, amazingly, turned lovely! Darn it! Around 27 degrees lovely which is more of a late-summer temperature than nearly-winter, so it shall have to wait until next week for its first proper outing. Boo hoo.

I confess I did wear it post-front-yard-photo-opp to drop off Miss 9 at a slumber party as a mini roadtest and was asked ‘Wow! Are you going out somewhere??’ Which I figure means I am dressed quite nicely… or so appallingly that it was in fact a gentle hint to go home and change. I’m sticking to Option 1.

When I saw this dress I immediately thought of making it in navy linen and using a Japanese fabric for the contrasting yoke and obi belt. I love having sewing visions! I’m a recovering patchworker and have long had a great love of Japanese fabrics, and this dress pattern was SCREAMING out for a little bit of Japanese fabric loveliness. The quality and prints of Japanese patchwork fabrics are just lovely, they popped up all through my many quilts over the years (BTW Japanese patchwork is also amazing, their attention to detail and handwork is extraordinary). My original vision was for a small cherry blossom print on a navy background but no matter how long I looked at the shelves of the only patchwork shop in town it just did not materialise. My conjuring talents are limited apparently. There was a cherry blossom print but the flowers were just a little too far apart. This choice was the next best option but I really like it, especially with my beloved brown boots (if I don’t say so myself). It’s sedate… rather like me…

I’ve always steered clear of linen as I have this real ‘thing’ about fabric that crushes (I even sneak around in shops crumpling up the clothes in my hand before I consider them as a ‘potential purchase’ to see if it’s going to drive me nuts – yes, shop assistants must love me). I know that linen is supposed to look like that but I just HATE turning up to work with a stupid seatbelt crumple line across my chest – it’s like turning up with pillow creases on your face. Not cool. This linen didn’t crush badly as I worked with it so I’m confident this dress is going to become a favourite. (No I’m not a control freak… I’m just particular about some specific things… I like to think of it as adding ‘interest and texture to my personality’… rather like pretending I don’t have dirty blonde curly hair…)

I’ve read several recommendations not to use quilting fabrics for dressmaking as they don’t tend to drape well but I think it works for this dress – am I delusional? Well I am often delusional but I don’t think so in this case!

This is a lovely little pattern. I cut size 8 and graded out over my hips to a size 10 as the linen had no give in it. Some of the pattern reviews said it verged on small – others said big. I think I could have gotten away with 8 all the way but I’m happy with it as it is as leggings will fit under it nicely in our colder months with plenty of wiggle room. Yes, when it gets down to a frosty 16-18 degrees in the middle of the day. LOL.Lisette Itinerary Dress, Simplicity 2060 Obi Belt

It was an easy pattern to cut out as the shape is very boxy without the obi belt. So I whipped out the old patchwork rotary cutter and had it done in no time at all.

I struggled a bit with the sleeves but the light at night in my sewing room is extremely poor (need to get a table light) and sewing navy at night is no fun at all!!!

The pattern for View B actually has curved hem at the sides however I preferred it straight like the pattern envelope. So I skipped the curved edges and squared it off. I’m not a big fan of the big shirt look on me. I feel like a little person wearing big person clothing.

I also lengthened the obi belt to a size 10 as I had read some reviews where it did not meet at the back. Mine overlaps by quite a bit and I’ll have to do some research as to whether this is what an obi belt should look like – or whether the Japanese are more free-wheelin’ about the back view of their obi belts! The pattern said to slip-stitch the opening of the obi belt closed. I just tucked in the raw edge, ironed it and then used my tricky little edging foot (oh how I love my Bernina presser feet – probably more than my high heel collection right now – which is saying something) and just stitched a little closer to the obi edge than the pattern suggested. The raw edges have been firmly caught inside and the edge is very neat. I love this presser foot, I also used it for the edge stitching on the contrast yoke. It’s a very fast and easy way to get a consistent top stitch seam.

Edge stitching with the specialised Bernina presser footI went a bit nuts trying out my Bernina presser feet and used four different presser feet on this dress. The standard foot, the overlocker foot for seam neatening, buttonhole foot and the edge stitch foot.  So I’ve called this my Four Foot Dress (I’m actually towering five foot four, only one foot two shorter than my ELH – ever lovin’ hubby). I’ve had my machine for about eight years now and only ever used two feet. Why? Because I was a patchworker and I didn’t have a need for the other fancy feet that came with my machine. However a new stitchin’ day has dawned! Hello Sunshine : )

The buttons are from my stash – coconut shell buttons all the way from Tonga where the ELH and I honeymooned. They have been waiting for the right outfit for…. quite some time! I can easily get this dress over my head without opening the button closure (in fact I just stitched the button  on my shoulder right on top of the buttonhole, rather than cutting the buttonhole open). Despite the fact the dress doesn’t need the button opening, if (or when) I make this dress again I would still do the button closure as I think it gives the dress a nice finish. It would be rather plain without.Lisette Itinerary Dress, buttons from Tonga!

I like the sleeve length but am tempted to add a little finishing touch with a button on the outside of the sleeves at the cuff with a little thin loop of obi fabric coming from underneath and around the button- does that make sense? Not that the sleeves need it but I think it would be a nice finishing touch. I might try pinning it on and see if it works or if it’s overkill.

I like buttonholes. They freak lots of people out but I think they are FUN. My Bernina has this super dooper (technical term) buttonhole foot. You put on the foot, set your machine to buttonhole stitch and then press the reverse stitch button when you get to the bottom of the buttonhole. The trusty Bernina takes over from there (just keep an eye that the fabric is feeding through straight) and every buttonhole you do after that is exactly the same. Fabulous!

There is quite a bit of fabric over of the contrast material when you cut out this dress (assuming you are well behaved and cut the obi ties out on the bias). So I cut the remainder into bias strips in preparation for another Tardis Skirt – or it might make a nice contrast trim on a Sorbetto top. Now there’s a thought!

I haven’t quite finished all the stitching on the obi belt – I was too excited and wanted to try it on RIGHT NOW and take a photo.

I love being naughty.

Now what to make next??

More pictures on flickr

Happy Little Mailbox

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20120509-103745.jpg

Finally! Colette patterns sheets arrived on Friday afternoon (yes right before I left for my weekend school reunion!) and today three Colette patterns – including Hazel – arrived.
Lots of happy hand clapping.
Just have to finish Lisette Itinerary & my ‘lounge’ Tardis skirt!