HAZEL’S NAUGHTY LITTLE SISTER

Meet the nighttime version of Hazel aka PURPLE HAZE’L. Or as I also fondly call her – Hazel’s Naughty Little Sister…

Hazel's Naughty Little Sister - Purple Haze'l

Colette Hazel’s Naughty Little Sister – Purple Haze’l (or Not Smoke On The Water as ELH declared)

So what do you do when all the pattern companies are releasing lovely summer dresses and winter is descending in the southern hemisphere? You just grunge them up, slap on some boots, a cap and coat – and rock on. Who says you can’t wear pretty sundresses in the middle of winter? Just wear them with attitude!

I decided to tackle Hazel once more and participate in the Colette Sewalong 2.0 organised by Lucky Lucille, Sarah and Erin. I was most jealous about the first Sewalong but the canoe-across-the-oceans speed delivery from Amazon meant I could not join in. So here I am! I’m a bit early for the Hazel sewalong but it’s better early than late! And Macaroon looks to be the next sewalong choice, based on the voting so far, which is not my cup of tea, so I want to start my next project while they tackle that one.

I almost did not make this dress but I am so glad I didn’t give up (even when that seemed to be the sensible option). It’s not perfect but it’s grungy fun. This is not cake clothing, it’s just very naughty self-saucing winter pudding.

I freaked out at first when I got home and realised it was a one-directional stripe pattern.

My step-by-step approach to dealing with this.

  1. I picked which set of stripes I wanted to feature in the centre of the dress. I picked the set of smaller stripes.
  2. I decided to run the stripes across the bodice front rather than down. I did this because I did not like how the stripes would not mirror each other out from the centre of the bodice. I also ran the narrower stripes at the edge of the side bodice pieces so they angled down towards my waist. I was trying to achieve an hourglass effect. Not sure if this worked…
  3. I decided to cut the front skirt piece in half and then cut all skirt pieces on the bias for a chevron effect. I thought Wow that will look great – I should have thought, crikey that will make life tough. It was all going swell until I cut the back pieces so they matched at the backs but not the sides. DOH! I had enough fabric to cut these pieces out again and then cut the straps from the oopsie back pieces.
  4. I thought the bodice and skirt looked messy together so I cut strips from the wide black stripe to create a visual break between the bodice and skirt. I just measured the bodice bottom and the two joined back panels and added seams allowances. I then joined the black strips and then joined them to the bodice, matching the side seams. I then attached the skirt to the black strip.
  5. The skirt is slightly narrower than the pattern. I had some oopsies getting the side stripes to match up and trimmed some off the edges. I think it works better as more gathering would ruin the chevron effect – after all that hard work I wasn’t going to let that happen!
  6. I ran the stripes up and over my shoulders to lengthen my frame.
  7. I moved the straps in at the back and the front. I also changed the angle they are inserted into the bodice – otherwise they sort of slide off my shoulders.
  8. I decided to run the stripes straight across my back. Yes, I could have chevron’ed them as well but you need to stop somewhere. I’m not a complete sucker for punishment.
  9. Sob. No pockets. Did not want to ruin the side seams – or make them even harder to match!
  10. A much shorter zip – for the same reasons as no pockets. I pull the dress over my head rather than step into it. On the upside my zipper insertion is perfect – first time ever – and right the first time I sewed it in. Hooray!!

Now just a friendly warning, several shots follow where I look rather sickeningly pleased with myself. Yes, it’s revolting but I just could not help myself.

Purple Haze'l - pleased with myself - Colette Hazel pattern with a bas cut skirt

Purple Haze’l – pleased with myself – Colette Hazel pattern with a bias cut skirt

Purple Haze'l - side seams - Colette Hazel pattern with a bias cut skirt

Purple Haze’l – check out those side seams people!!

Colette Hazel - back view - bias cut skirt

Colette Hazel – back view – bias cut skirt. The stripes are a tiny bit skew-iff towards the hem – my cure is to tell people to just stop looking at my butt. Just focus on my lovely invisible zipper – I finally figured out how to get these in neatly.

Colette Hazel - front view - bias cut skirt

Colette Hazel – I chopped off my head to get rid of the smug self-satisfied look for you 🙂

Apart from the Simplicity 1880 sewalong I mentioned last post (and I’m thinking of throwing caution to the wind and making a red one with white piping, crazy girl), I also want to make Cambie in a very pretty rose print. It’s inspired by an Australian vineyard. Long story. I will tell you one day soon. That’s what I love about sewing, every project is a story in itself. No wonder we blog!

I am also dying to make Oolong. And I think the peacock fabric some of you admired in the last post would work beautifully. I’m not as curvy as the Colette model but I think it might work on me. I love flowy bias cut dresses. Sew Squirrel are trying to get it in. If you live in Australia this is THE SITE to get your Sewaholic and Colette Patterns. Postage is free at the moment and the patterns are a great price. I am devoted to them already. This is where I got my Cambie and Renfrew patterns from. Thank you Sew Squirrel!

THE ONLY WAY IS UP

Had that sinking feeling when you look at the fabric you purchased for a project and thought ‘Ooops‘?

Never one to shy from a challenge, I decided to not only slightly modify a pattern but to do it with a stripe fabric for the Colette Sewalong 2.0 – Hazel. Yes I’m having yet another crack at Hazel.

crikey stripes everywhere!

Nothing like a challenge!

OK not so bad, except when the stripes run in one direction and are all different widths. Not so good.

I almost ditched this project, however the time I spend in the sewing room after putting my girls to bed saved it. I spent a lot of time looking at the pattern and the fabric, moving pieces around before I started.

All sorts of things have gone wrong, I’ve cut out some pieces twice, jiggled and wriggled the pieces, had more than a few moments when I thought “I’m an idiot, I can’t do this” but I’ve hung in there and the stripes are lining up. Hooray.

I cut all the pieces out on the ironing board as they were all small and/or narrow. I wanted to achieve a cheveron effect at the seams so I was very precise about the position of the patterns pieces on the fabric before cutting. Once I had a pattern piece down exactly where I wanted it on my fabric, I wanted to anchor it securely before cutting. Standard pinning did not give me the result I was after and pattern weights were also not secure enough.

Solution? I pushed the pins directly down, through the pattern piece, the fabric and the ironing board itself. As my ironing board has a cover, a thick felt layer and then a metal grid, the pins went through easily (errr, except for when I hit the metal grid bits, minor detail).

Cutting out on the ironing board

Pinned down!

I pinned a little in from the edge so my scissors could easily slide along the edge. I have a rotary cutter and mat, however I found this method much easier for little pieces. (excuse the dodgey iPhone photos – the only thing at hand at night – but I think you get the idea. All you can see is a pin head, no pin shaft.).

I also found the height of the ironing board and the ease of moving around it very helpful.

Unlike many sewing projects, I have cut out the pieces as I have gone along. I knew I had enough fabric so I took my time. I cut out the bodice and pieced it together. Then cut and pieced the skirt. I spent quite a while deciding what to do with the stripes on the straps. I cut the facings from the scraps towards the end.

It’s been fun. In fact it reminds me of making a patchwork quilt, putting time and consideration into each step. Thinking about the placement of each piece and how the fabric works in context of the larger project. Sometimes it is nice to know your destination, other times choosing a different path is just as rewarding.

Still more work to go on this stripey challenge, I have to shift the straps a little, do some understitching and then the hem.

Patience is a virtue…

Stripey bodice

More stripes!

A FABRIC DIET

Fabric dilemmas

Fabric dilemmas – no joy here, rayons galore but nothing for me 😦

I’ve been in a sewing rut for an entire 24 hours. I know! Catastrophe!

Will I ever sew again?

How many more hours can I stare blankly at a pattern envelope?

I hemmed Hazel last night and we are looking at each other quite smugly. I feel like I won. She feels like she put up a good fight. Yes, yes pictures soon I promise!

A Fashionable Stitch Shirt-dress Sewalong

A Fashionable Stitch Shirt-dress Sewalong

I was already to roll into another project, Sunni’s Simplicity 1880 Sewalongand just can’t find the fabric to ‘sing’ to me!!! I have this picture in my head of English roses and I can’t find it. The one above is lovely but the print is a little big. I LOVE the birdies with a frightening passion but not for this project.

I found a completely fabulous red border print in another shop but I’m not really a ‘red’ girl (unless it’s hair colour and then anything goes!). Should I throw caution to the wind?? Maybe if I wore it with a jaunty scarf tossed around my neck?
Decisions!!

Returned home EMPTY HANDED. Yes, from a fabric shop. Twice. This is serious….
On the upside I received the Cambie & Renfew Patterns in the mail. Sew Squirrel has free shipping in Australia. It would have been silly not to buy them.
And it’s a bit of cake AND icing. Give me five! Balanced diet! Woo hoo! Tasia would approve.

Speaking of dieting…

I also succumbed to this very very funny vintage pattern on eBay.

I’m still laughing. A ‘pounds thinner pattern’ for a cereal company no less!
If this works I can found a sewing diet empire!

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WHEN THE STARS ALIGN

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I love those moments in life when you know just what to do.
It doesn’t always have to be sewing. It’s just that golden moment that happens some days when you stop ‘making do’, the stars align and everything seems so simple. It’s as if life is singing to you.
I love that sound.
I love those moments.
I had one years ago, a few months before a trip to London to see a lovely old friend who was having her first baby. If you are reading this mate, I’ve ‘borrowed’ this off your Flickr account. Wasn’t sure about sending everyone there given its packed with family photos.
I was excited for her. Wanted to take something special. Didn’t know what.
Then I saw a quilt pattern and it was perfect. The colors were too soft but I just loved it and I knew just what to do.
There was the odd moment, like spending about 2 hours in the local patchwork shop to find the right border fabrics. Purchasing something and then changing my mind to go through the process all over again. It was worth it. The patchwork shop owner bought the pattern to remake ‘my quilt’ I figure that’s a good sign.
I’ve always had a ‘thing’ for checks/plaids in patchwork and a huge amount of this quilt came from my beloved stash – it felt right!
I had another moment yesterday.
I think I found the perfect fabric for a Lisette Passport Jacket and Simplicity dress 2444
I’m determined to line the Passport jacket so I’m doing some research before I start, starting here at Tilly and the buttons
I wasn’t sure if I would make Simplicity 2444 but had a ‘thing’ for it as the pattern number is the same as my postcode. Hey! I never said I was normal.
I could not imagine it on me… Until yesterday…
I love those moments!
Watch this space.