SewHolidayLizzy – Grainline Maritime Shorts (1 & 2)

Grainline Maritime Shorts in floral denim

Grainline Maritime Shorts in floral denim – Take 2 in size 6

I’ve never been a ‘shorts’ girl. However after the Archer blast I decided that I needed MOAR Grainline in my life so I purchased the Maritime Shorts, Mini Moss Skirt and the Tiny Pocket Tank. I know, nothing like jumping in boots ‘n’ all.

I decided to make the Shorts first – weird choice as I have never been a fan of me and my legs in shorts…

I had a scrap of denim so I whipped up the first pair… they were… let’s say ‘friendly’ aka rather on the super-fitted side. I think if I had put on Kylie Minogue’s Spinning Around that I could have smacked out the denim version of the music clip. Actually… they weren’t quite that bad… but they were a little frisky for me 🙂

Grainline Maritime Shorts

ahhhhh….. NO….. size 2

I didn’t actually finish these – ie no hems – I’ve just rolled over the raw edges. I knew they were not going to be wearable before I even put in the fly but I just continued on just to practice the techniques. The fabric was about $4 so there were no tears over this failure. ELH (the ever lovin’ husband) said he thought they looked mighty fine (men!) but understood my reluctance to leave the house in them!

Grainline Maritime Shorts - front view

Grainline Maritime Shorts – front view

So then I decided to make them again in size 6 (because going up two sizes seemed sensible after Take 1 fit!) with some floral denim I had stashed (yes this is the stash busting project of 2013!). I basted up the side seams on the advice of Abbey from Sew Charleston – great advice as I took them in by at least another 1/4 inch on each side after trying them on.

I also altered the construction method so it was more like the Sewaholic Thurlow – in a similar manner to Lauren’s Maritime shorts.

I sewed the crotch seam from the bottom of the fly and just an inches into the back pieces. I inserted the fly front and then attached the waistband in two pieces. I sewed the left front band to a back band and the right front band to the other back band. I then attached the left front/back bands and the right front/back bands to their side of the shorts – leave the back seam unstitched (am I making any sense??). I tried on the shorts and redrew the back seam line on the shorts back and band pieces – taking out a massive slice… I mirrored this slice onto the band interfacing back pieces.

This is a really simple way to fit shorts if you have a huge gape at the back – no-one wants to see your builder’s crack – trust me on this one.

Grainline Maritime Shorts, size 6, back view.
Grainline Maritime Shorts, size 6, back view. Still a little baggy – need more junk in the trunk.

These are not too bad – not quite perfect but still very wearable. I really love this denim, it’s stretchy and really quite cute. Looks so much better made up than on the roll… good thing I got three metres for $12…

So I decided I needed to make these in size 4. I don’t know why I went up two sizes. SewStoopidLizzy hoots the Drunk Monkey. So Take 3, the Urban Butterfly, is coming your way very soon…

Where am I in these shots? Yes away again. This time with friends at Nambucca Heads, about 75 minutes drive north from home for the October long weekend. I had the most hideous flu in these shots, I actually spent most of the weekend asleep in the cabin… staggering out for a few hours, having a few beers and then back to bed!

This is a truly gorgeous spot where the river meets the ocean and they have a breakwall – complete with graffiti rocks. I love breakwalls like this, people document their holidays, family reunions, propose, commemorate a loved one’s passing… while it is graffiti, most people ignore the ‘illegal’ element. These strangely beautiful walls are about lives being lived… and there is something captivating and beautiful about that. Ordinary people taking the time to grab a brush and celebrate a moment in a public way. Over time the rocks change, as people paint over a rock and start their own stories where another once was. I love that. There is always another story, another joy, another sorrow. It’s quite beautiful in a magnificently ordinary way. Just like life.

Grainline Maritime Shorts - Nambucca Breakwall

Grainline Maritime Shorts – Nambucca Breakwall

And we saw whales breaching offshore while we took these pictures. Amazing!

Pattern: Grainline Maritime Shorts
Fabric: denim from Spotlight ($4m from the bargain table!)

Also See: Sew Charleston | Boo Dogg & Me | Lladybird | Cloth Habit

Watch this space for Take 3… The Urban Butterfly…

I seriously can’t believe I put two photographs of my bum in a blog post – but there you go… that’s blogging for you…

Sew Bossy… falling in love with (silk) Archer

Like everyone else, I’ve fallen in love with Archer by Grainline Studios.

It was extremely windy - so this looks way more fitted than it is!

It was extremely windy – so this looks hard more fitted than it is!

We took these photos on the way home from Dubbo Zoo (site of the infamous leopard culottes shoot). Unfortunately it was blowing a gale and getting shots where my face wasn’t covered in hair was challenging. I love driving through this country, the colours are so muted, the hills roll away into the distance, the sky seems closer and the grass is soft and brown. I’ve always wanted to take a blog shot in this area – perhaps next time when the weather is more agreeable!

Archer by Grainline Studio, Sewn by SewBusyLizzy

I’ve chosen this as the back view shot – simply because all the other shots, it’s quite creased as I fell asleep in the car!

This make is courtesy of Leila of Three Dresses. Not only did she get me sewing a ‘proper’ shirt, she also got me to tackle silk – thank goodness for the gelatin bath for taming the slippery beast. This make re-fuelled my love of sewing. I certainly had not fallen out of love with sewing (not possible) but I had been feeling flat and weary about most things for a while.

Leila has made Archer – and has great fitting tips.

Once I pulled out the scissors and cut into the silk, I just went bananas.

Not my favoutire shot - however it's slightly less windy and the shirt is sitting more 'normally'!

Not my favoutire shot – however it’s slightly less windy and the shirt is sitting more ‘normally’!

I did not read the instructions – I used Jen’s online sewalong, which is fantastic.
I did get slightly stuck with the burritoed yoke (you attach the yoke without a single hand stitch – love that!) and hopped between Jen’s tutorial and Peter’s of Male Pattern Boldness which helped me get the concept straight in my head. If you haven’t even sewn a yoke this way – I recommend you try it!

I hit an absolute road block with the collar and collar stand. Not because of the pattern or instructions, just my lack of experience and agility with the machine! I put it aside for a few days, realised it wasn’t as bad as I thought and ploughed on. Next time I’ll be trying Andrea of Four Square Walls method – which popped up post my collar horror!

I so enjoyed making this Archer- I promptly purchased the Tiny Pocket Tank, Mini Moss Skirt and Maritime Shorts from Grainline Studio!

windy!!

windy!!

I do love long-sleeved, masculine shirts and I think that I will be making a more Archers (I might have fabric queued for two more…). LOVE.

I’m going to wear this with pencil skirt and heels to work – it looks fabulous like that too… for some reason heels didn’t seem so appropriate in this setting…

Thank you Leila. xox

Pattern: Grainline Archer
Material: 100% silk shot with metallic thread
Location: 10 minutes east of Walcha NSW Australia

Also see: True Bias (this is my all time fave Archer) | Did You Make That | Ginger Makes | Sew Amy Sew | Four Square Walls (adore this outfit) | Notes from a Mad Housewife (love the back of this one – great shots & advice) | Handmade by Heather

As for the holiday – it was ‘rad’ – just ask Miss 8… thanks to all our family and friends!

Apsley Falls near Walcha, NSW

Apsley Falls near Walcha, NSW

And if it’s quiet around here… I’ve been at home for a whole four days – so it’s time for another break – this time with friends at the beach (a different one!).

PURRFECT – Tania Culottes by Megan Nielsen

AKA the Cheetah/Cheater Shorts (the shorts you wear when you want to be wearing a skirt…)

So if you were going to the zoo… and riding a bike… what would you choose to make?

Tania Culottes - doing what they were designed to do!

Tania Culottes – doing what they were designed to do!

Bingo! The Tania Culottes by Megan Nielsen. In animal print no less….

Tania Culottes and the odd giraffe

Tania Culottes and some giraffes – I’m looking a little weary – so NOT a morning person…

These are kinda kooky & crazy but you know… I think I kinda love them.

I admit, like the Cascade Skirt of Mulletdom, the Tania Culottes held little appeal when the Breakwater Collection by Megan Nielsen was released – obviously I am a nincompoop – or I just need the right burst of inspiration. I have vague memories of culottes (not on me, I am clearly not that traumatised) and recall them being daggy and knee-length. You know… the sensible wardrobe skirt choice for women who don’t want to risk showing their knickers.

You see, I don’t recall culottes looking like this…

Tania Culottes back shot

Miss 8 asked for the camera and returned it with this shot of “Mum’s butt” she explained. These culottes are kinda flirty and in a strong wind they don’t blow up completely but you do show LOTS of leg – I’ve spare you any risquĂ© shots today 🙂 Note this is Day 2 at the zoo – we had a quick visit and drove the car around – hence the heeled sandals.

I loved wearing these. So comfortable, cute and cool. I suspect they will get a lot of wear – with or without a zoo visit.

Oopsies - obscuring your view of the amazing Galapagos Tortoise - I thought you were here for the sewing?

Oopsies – obscuring your view of the amazing Galapagos Tortoise – I thought you were here for the sewing? Those tortoises live for 150 years!

These culottes are a bit like wearing two circle skirts around your legs. They swing and swish around your legs as you walk. They are so full it’s hard for the untrained eye to spot the culotte-ness of them! I managed to throw my leg over my unladylike bike all day without sharing my underwear choices with the other zoo visitors (I love those townie bikes but in my life the practicality of a mountain bike with suspension/gears reigns supreme – they are awesome to ride). The zoo circuit is only 5kms long but you are forever jumping on and off your bike (I did pack some ‘backup shorts’ just in case… and they were not required).

Tania Culottes and the inspiration!

Tania Culottes and the inspiration!

Tania Culottes and the less than inspiring real life cheetah - these big cats are seriously lazy.

Tania Culottes and the less-than-inspiring real life cheetah – these big cats are seriously lazy. Note: I wore a loose long-sleeved, collar shirt while riding – otherwise I would have been burnt to a crisp!

Whoopsies Part 1: The waistband… I managed to interface the waistband and the waistband interfacing pieces – yeah I don’t know what I was thinking either. Fortunately it didn’t have any impact on the culottes other than a slightly firmer waistband – which might have actually helped evening up the hems as they sit very nicely indeed.

Whoopsies Part 2: The hemming is hard core. I left them to hang overnight and when I put them on, I swear my drunk monkey had been swinging off the raw edges all night long while swigging his beer.
I cut these shorts as XS with the Large leg length. I am fairly confident they ended up shorter than the ‘large’ leg length due to all the levelling of the hem – lots of fabric was sacrificed! I actually convinced ELH to lend a hand (I know he’s probably the LSH at this point (Long Suffering Husband). I have NO IDEA how I would have managed to even up these hems by myself.
After levelling my hems (I can handle the Cascade skirt but I’m not a mullet hem shorts kinda girl), I overlocked the edges and then hand stitched the hems… yes, it took forever but like my rayon Anna dresses, I think the finish of the garment is much nicer.

The Finishing Touch

Tania Culottes Label

ummmm…. it also makes it easier to tell the front from the back…

This was a truly awesome experience – feeding giraffes… these creatures are just so graceful and beautiful – I fell completely in love with them. It was a little unnerving to stand still while their giant heads swooped down, tongues outstretched searching for a carrot.

Feeding giraffes!

Feeding Giraffes! That’s Miss 10 – who is getting far too tall!!

I had a lovely time at the Dubbo Western Plains Zoo – it is the country cousin of Taronga Zoo in Sydney. It’s not as shiny and glamorous as Taronga, there are not so many animals, the views not as grand BUT it’s a wonderful day out, there are fewer people, shorter queues and you really do get close to the animals. Plus riding a bicycle around was a delight and made for one of the most pleasant days at the zoo (OK, I confess a few wines in the park with lovely old school friends afterwards might have added to the fun…).

THE LOWDOWN ON THE HIGH-HEMMED CULOTTES
Seriously cute, flirty and fun to wear.
Seriously easy to make – it’s just the hems of horror that are a challenge, all I can say is find a friend to help (or a husband!).

DETAILS
Pattern: Tania Culottes by Megan Nielsen. It’s very hard to get your hands on a printed copy of this now – I searched high and low for mine and got it from Indie Stitches – it’s now sold out there too, I think it’s now ‘out of print’. Megan does sell it as a PDF.
Fabric: Spun Rayon Challis from Lincraft (available online)
Location: Dubbo Western Plains Zoo

Need more inspiration? Also see: Cirque du bebe | Scruffy Badger | Lladybird | Sown Brooklyn | Four Square Walls | Handmade by Heather B

Summer Sunset – Megan Neilsen Cascade Skirt

I have always loved wrap skirts and dresses – and right now I’m crushing on this one.

Love this skirt! Megan Neilsen's Cascade Skirt

Love this skirt! Megan Neilsen’s Cascade Skirt (sheltering from a strong on-shore breeze!)

This is Megan Neilsen’s Cascade skirt and it’s a simple, satisfying make. It’s essentially a wrap circle skirt, with the curve cutting away across the front pieces to achieve this lovely cascade effect.

It’s just four pattern pieces, the back, two front pieces and the waist band. The side seams are French seams and the hem is rolled. If you don’t have a roll hem foot (like me) I would advise some endurance refreshments as you sew around that hem THREE times – it’s a monster! Not to mention trimming the hem before you roll it. Patience has never been one of my virtues (in fact… I’m just trying to recall any of my virtues…).

the NeverEndingHem

the NeverEndingHem

Other than the NeverEndingHem, this is really a very simple make.

I somehow managed to squash this skirt out of two metres – without doing anything terribly dodgy in the cutting/grainline department.  I was so determined to make the skirt from this fabric – nothing else would do. The waistband was cut from the length of the fabric – the only piece of fabric I had left after I cut out the front and back pieces. This fabric is very very soft and I think making the button waistband option would have been a disaster. I also interfaced the waistband – just around my waist to give the fabric a little more endurance.

THE skirt of summer...

THE skirt of summer…

This is a long skirt. I’m a stately 5 foot 4 – Megan Neilsen’s model for this skirt is 5 foot 9 – just sayin’ as it explains why this is so much longer on me! Some people have chopped off the length to make it more mid-calf – personally I like it long, I love the sweep of the skirt and how the front ripples open as you walk. In a steady onshore breeze people got to see plenty of my legs – I spared you the ‘legs’ shots… I know, I’m good like that.

Confession: I’ve never been much of a fan of the high-low hem – or the mullet hem as I call it – however as a wrap skirt, that moves and flutters as you walk, this is quite lovely.

Perfectly soft viscose rayon for this design

Perfectly soft viscose rayon for this design

I had no plans to get the skirt pattern, however when I was in Melbourne for Frocktails and doing a ‘small’ spot of fabric shopping with the girls, I found this blissful viscose rayon at Darn Cheap Fabrics (note this one is not available online, I’ve checked). It’s reminiscent of Monet or the sun setting over the water and I immediately wanted to make the Cascade Skirt with it – it just seemed perfect… Busy Lizzie (in Brissy) got some of this fabric – so let’s see what she does with it!

Cascade Skirt - the back view. It was a windy afternoon!

Cascade Skirt – the back view. It was a windy afternoon!

For me this is a perfect summer casual skirt. It replaces a sarong to put over my swimmers, it’s easy to wear with flip-flops and a t-shirt/singlet, and after this beach blog shoot I threw on strappy silver heels and a tight denim jacket for a casual dinner.

you can wear it strolling on the beach…

on the beach...

on the beach…

and just dipping your toes in the water…

dipping my toes in...

dipping my toes in…

or just a spot of idle daydreaming…

daydreaming...

daydreaming…

Also see: Lladybird | Cut Cut Sew | Holly Dolly Blog | Sleek Silhouette

Note: Blog post dedicated to Leah of a Little Stone Cottage a brand new sewing blogger who grew up in Port Macquarie and I think misses out beautiful beaches and weather! Mwah 🙂

Dandelion Top in Watercolour

Today we are on a Disparate Disciplines Dandelion blog hop!

Dandelion Dress blog hop button 300px

Dandelion seeds have been strewn all over the globe…
3 September: Wanett of Sown Brooklyn
4 September: Winnie of Scruffy Badger Time
6 September: Lizzie of Sew Busy Lizzie (oops that’s me!)
9 September: Joyatee of Joy and Smiles
11 September: Brooke of Custom Style
Here is my contribution to the Global Dandelion blog hop…
Dandelion in Watercolour…
The Dandelion Yoked Top

Mari of Disparate Disciplines’ new pattern – the Dandelion

Mari asked me to be a pattern tester and I was delighted. The timeframe changed slightly and the pattern arrived smack bang in the middle of several weekend trips I have had lately. (Tamworth, Canberra, Melbourne – all within a month!).

I decided to pattern test without making a muslin or alterations. I am one of those people that everyone likes to loathe. I was quite comfortable to do this. I rarely alter anything, RTW or patterns (with the except of Colette Patterns). I think there are two reasons for this.

One, I never even read the back of the Big 4 pattern envelopes. (Waste of time – even my monkey would tell you this.) I just decide how much ease I would like for a style, read the measurements on the printed pattern and go from there. Works a treat. And I read every blog/review I can find before I embark on any pattern to figure out the sizing of the patterns (being a pattern tester I didn’t have that option this time LOL).

The other reason is that I am one of those mythical creatures with measurements very close to the ‘standard’ (I’m certainly not mythical – although some days I am more than a little dragon-like… and I only ride my unicorn to work every blue moon…). So if a pattern has been drafted to standard measurements then I am a good case study.

I was really happy to see the diversity in this pattern – three necklines, sleeves, sleeveless, a yoke AND as a top or a dress. After my Anna binge, I was really keen to add some woven tops to my summer casual wardrobe. Woven tops in voiles & lawn are much nicer to wear on humid days than a t-shirt.

 Mari of Disparate Disciplines 1401 Dandelion Sketch

Mari of Disparate Disciplines 1401 Dandelion Sketch

One of the first things I noticed about this pattern was that the PDF comes with a printing guide so you only print the pages you need for the version & size you want to make – oh rapture and bliss. The pattern also features a recipe for a dandelion pesto as well as a printable envelope to make storing your pattern pieces easy & convenient. So you save paper (and sanity), eat while sewing (it’s no longer cool to starve for your art) AND store your pattern. All these style, printing, food AND storage options for just $12. Great value.

Some more pictures… I gave up my lunchbreak for this so indulge me… hang on I actually had a lunch break – that was novel…

Disparate Disciplines Dandelion Yoked Top - front view

Disparate Disciplines Dandelion Yoked Top – front view – coulda done with an iron…

Disparate Disciplines' Dandelion Top

Disparate Disciplines’ Dandelion Top – back view. I’m sorry, let’s stop & punch the air – that zip is pretty much INVISIBLE. Yeeeesss.

I really wanted to put a lace front yoke on this top – but I haven’t sew something like that and being incredibly time poor, I decided to be sensible *gasp* and make it up in one fabric – my favourite stashed voile. (this sensible decision shocked the drunk monkey into stoney silence, I think he’s still sulking). This pattern is clearly a perfect pairing with lace as demonstrated by Winnnie of Scruffy Badger Time & Velosewer of How Good is That?

This top has these tricky side panels which create the a marvellous feminine shape. They are slightly tricky to put in – but if you have sewn a similar dart/seam (if you have made the Victoria blazer you will now exactly what I mean) it is very simple. If not, Mari’s instructions are clear. You just have to think before you stitch – radical idea but trust me it works… I’m coming to really love patterns that have slightly different seamlines, in many cases they move better, it’s one of the reasons that I love my Day-to-night/Vogue hack dresses – the half back and side seams make the dress sit better when I walk

Disparate Disciplines' Dandelion Top - side view

Disparate Disciplines’ Dandelion Top – side view. Oops peekaboo bra. ELH needs some stylin’ training… if you squint you can see those side panel seams.

The instructions are very clear and well illustrated. I sewed this together in less than an hour and then finished off the armholes, neckline and hemline with bias binding the following day. I do need to put a button and thread loop at the top of the zip. I’m not too bothered, I rarely wear my hair up so it’s covered anyway.

Next time around I would shortened the bodice near the yoke seam, it’s a little took long in bodice just here for me – but I think because this fabric is so delightfully patterned it is hard to see. Totally wearable as is. Although looking at the pictures – it looks fine without alterations…

Now I have seen Wanett’s I think I need one for work…

LIKE IT? Want it?

Your very own little Dandelion top or dress is but a few clicks away… so click click click… download it and start sewing now!

I’m just putting this picture in because I find it hilarious that a muscle popped outta my scrawny arm unbidden. Take note people, this is a rare sight.

Dandelion top

Whoops – a muscle??? And yes barefoot in the water AGAIN in winter. I know, you all want to come and live with me, even with the drunk monkey, dragon moods & a unicorn in the garage.

The Photographs…

I was waiting on Town Green for ELH to appear to take some snaps in my lunchbreak. I was perched up next to Sir Edmund Barton, the first Prime Minister of Australia no less. (Hang on Lizzy, wasn’t Federation like over 100 years ago? Totally – however he was our local member at the time – hence the statue on our Town Green). I was tucked up against his shoulder, eyes closed, having a daydream, blissing out in the warm sunshine. Some tourists wandered off the nearby wharf and asked if they could take my picture because I looked so picturesque!

Dandelion top rocks – even tourists want pictures of it!

MORE SEWBUSYLIZZY NEWS…

My local paper wrote about my blog… a whole page… with a picture!

Port Macquarie News

I was really nervous about this – still am – yes, I rabbit on with great enthusiasm here to the worldwide web but having the neighbours know… that was quite challenging. I love the freedom that you give me – to be a little odd and have a giggle. Not everyone IRL is so generous. I’m enormously grateful to everyone of you that has encouraged me since I started blogging. It’s changed my life in some many positive & happy ways – but more importantly given me the confidence to be more ‘me’. Thank you.

If you want to jump over and read the story… hop, hop, hop over here