SEWAHOLIC LONSDALE – a case of Lonsdalitis confirmed

Hello Lonsdale.

Sewaholic Lonsdale - front view

Sewaholic Lonsdale – front view

Yes, once again I have been afflicted with another Sewaholic condition. This one I’ve nicknamed Lonsdalitis. (Sorry feeling tired and my imagination is poor today – if you come up with a better medical term for this condition please let me know and I amend).

This is the Sewaholic Lonsdale dress – purchased from Sew Squirrel (where I get my Sewaholic & Colette Pattern – she also stocks Megan Nielsen, Jalie, By Hand London, Made by Rae and now some haberdashery I noticed! I’m trying hard not to purchase any sewing patterns for a few month as I’m saving for the April/May London trip – woo hoo!

To be honest it took me awhile to succumb to this pattern. I just didn’t think it would suit me. Clearly I’m stoopid and required a bossy personal stylist (or perhaps learn to turn a deaf ear to that nasty little lady that lives inside my head – you know the one – I think she haunts us all), as I think it does quite suit me after all.

When I saw this sweet navy/red/white voile in Spotlight it was destined to be a Lonsdale – the size of the print and the whimsical style just seemed perfect for this graceful sundress.

I did make a mistake when I purchased this… I didn’t think it was directional. I just thought it was random daisies. When I laid it out to cut it – I discovered the vast majority of the daisy stems pointed in one direction. Ooooops.

Sewaholic Lonsdale

Sewaholic Lonsdale – pushing up daisies in the right direction

What to do? I certainly didn’t want my Lonsdale to be ‘pushing up daisies’ in the wrong direction! Well one of the blessings of being a not-so-well-endowed vertically-challenged individual means that I cut a Sewaholic size 0 so I can often fit more across the width of the fabric than the pattern layout indicates. So with a bit of wiggling and jiggling I almost squeezed it out. Almost. The straps of the bodice are enormous – very very very long, nearly a metre! I could not get four complete front bodices out of the fabric – so I simply pieced the straps and used these bodice pieces as the lining. And due to the print being ‘so busy’ its hard to find the seam. Woo hoo for Lizzy!

Lonsdale strap join

Lonsdale strap join

While I cut this dress out as size 0 I cut the skirt at a size 16 length. For me, I like the flared skirts to be longer, I think it creates a nicer silohette on my frame. I think it balances the flare of the skirt and the bare shoulders, it makes it more graceful than cute. I’m not much chop in the cute department (not that I’m at all gracious either – but its more fun to pretend to be gracious than cute). Then again I could just be a ‘grandma’ about these things. Some people have commented that I look very 70s… I’m hoping they mean era and not age. 😉 I think it would make a rather fabulous maxi in the right fabric.

Sewaholic Lonsdale - the front view

Sewaholic Lonsdale – the front view

I also attached some simple cotton trim to the hem…

Sewaholic Lonsdale, the hem

Sewaholic Lonsdale, the hem – with a little bit of trim…

I made no muslin (naughty Lizzy *giggle*) I figured my Cambie are a nice snug fit so this would be so too. NOT TRUE. It was a little too loose in the back and given the nature of this bodice I decided it had to be fixed. I did consider pulling it all apart – instead I cheated *giggle*. I ran two darts in the back near the strap loops, tapering down to nothing above the waistband. Worked a treat and as this is such a busy print and it has the back bow, it’s not noticeable. Plus I wanted to wear it to a Christmas party the next day.

Sewaholic Lonsdale - the back view

Sewaholic Lonsdale – the back view

This is a seriously easy dress to make, yes even though it is lined and has a zipper.

I put in a standard dress zipper as that’s what the pattern calls for. Next time I’m going invisible (no not like the Emperor’s New Clothes! I’m talking about the zipper!) especially if I’m using a fabric like voile or lawn (which is my favorite poison in the fabric department).

I would also cut the straps slightly longer next time, rather like Boo Dogg & Me did recently.

Speaking about zippers – my Coats & Clark pack arrived which I won on Pattern Review for this dress. I was expecting a few zippers. There is a ton! They also sent me a cute as a button thread package – AND a gorgeous tin. Awwww ain’t it cute!!! Polka dots, camo, silver, gold – it’s amazing!

Pattern Review have released their 2013 competitions – I think I might try to enter some this year – for no other reason than it provides a goal – I’m a goal orientated person!

Coats & Clark Zippers

Coats & Clark Zippers

Plus I forgot to mention that I also made an apron for my MIL for Christmas. It’s SQUEE cute. She loved it (I’m pretty sure she did anyway. She phoned up ELH to tell him she did which is a good sign, don’t you think?).

Sorry not my best photos – the sun glare was awful and I had to stand in the shade so I didn’t squint like I was 70!

Top 5 Favourite/Most Worn 2012

Top 5 of 2012

Gillian at Crafting a Rainbow is posting her Top 5 hits/misses/reflections/inspirations/goals for 2012. Great idea.

I think it’s always great to sit back and reflect on hits & misses – celebrate your moments of joy and absorb what you have learnt from the ‘minor’ hiccups.

So here are mine. Can you guess Number 1? Sorry no prizes for guessing the obvious…

SEWAHOLIC CAMBIE – I’ve got THE CAMBIE POX
Well you are hardly surprised are you? I adore these dresses. Beautiful finish, fit and the two skirts produce two completely different dresses. I adore my floral the most, with polka dots a very close second and then the lovely black number (it’s very sensible which makes outrageous adoration a little pathetic).

Sewaholic Cambie, View B

Sewaholic Cambie, View B. The perfect sundress, pretty, ladylike but not ‘old & fussy’.

SEWAHOLIC ALMA – not squee or twee
The perfect woven top. No buttons, no buttonholes, no fuss, versatile, comfortable. Perfect. If I had to teach the world to sew in perfect harmony… we would all be making Almas. There is enough variation in that pattern to keep anyone happy.I would be hard pressed (no pun intended) to choose a favourite between these tops.

Sewaholic Alma - view A

Sewaholic Alma – view A

Sewaholic Alma - not squee or twee... just me

Sewaholic Alma – not squee or twee… just me

VOGUE 1247 Skirt & top – the tardis skirt and top
Love, love, love this skirt. Amazing. Best casual skirt ever. I wear it all year round thanks to boots and leggings. We are BFFs.
Top is gorgeous. It could look big and boxy but in the right fabric it drapes beautifully. I wear the skirts and top… a lot.
This picture doesn’t do the pattern justice. However if you don’t have this pattern you really must buy it.

Vogue 1247 on apron day

What I really wore all day… Vogue 1247 top and skirt…

VOGUE 1236 – not a sack of potatoes a frolicking frock!
This was one of my early makes. It’s not super flash but it’s so comfortable, nicely finished and I wear it quite a lot. A lovely simple pattern.

Vogue 1236 - Definitely not a Sack of Potatoes

Vogue 1236 – Definitely not a Sack of Potatoes

SEWAHOLIC LONSDALE
I made this last week and worn it twice already. Great casual summer dress, flattering, simple to make and comfortable. Yes, yes! Pictures coming very soon.

Sewaholic Lonsdale fabric choice

Sewaholic Lonsdale fabric choice

HONORABLE MENTIONS

MARIADENMARK
I haven’t had a chance to take photos for the blog for my Yasmin Yoke skirts. Or make my final pair of Winnie Wide Leg Trousers. I suspect they will be on my 2013 Top 5 list!

Life intervened in a spectacular way late this year… work, family, you name it, was all going pear shaped. Casual clothes I find easy to photograph as I spend lots of time on the beach. Work clothes I am always racing out the door and the evenings are long and late and the light is bad. Great simple design, easy to wear and make. Although I did sneak in this picture when I had to pick one of my girls up (sent home from school sick – so I enlisted her to take a blog photo. Come on! She just had ‘itchy eyes’ which turned out to be an allergy and was better within an hour of medication and home!)

Sewaholic Alma - work blouse

Sewaholic Alma – as a work blouse. I’ve paired this with Maria Denmark a-line Yasmin Yoke skirt!

I have only muslined the Winnie wide leg trousers, I suspect these are my perfect trousers. They fit perfectly, I adore the wide legs and they are really easy to cut out and put together. There are not a million and one pieces. Just a simple clean design. Love them. There will be a ‘real’ pair of these in 2013.

MariaDenmark Winnie Trousers: muslin back

MariaDenmark Winnie Trousers: muslin back

Love the simple t-shirt and look forward to making more – I also printed out the Kimino tshirt pattern this week. I’ve also just purchased her brand new Day to Night top which I’ve just got to get some elastic for! It’s just $5.50 on Craftsy at the moment – special introductory price!!

MariaDenmark Birgitte Basic T-shirt - short sleeved t-shirt

MariaDenmark Birgitte Basic T-shirt – short sleeved t-shirt

SELFLESS SEWING
I adored making the Fishing Vest, it was trimmed with all manner of frivolousness, she admires it, I adored making it.

A Fishing Vest - this project was a blast, I loved every minute.

A Fishing Vest – this project was a blast, I loved every minute.

Confirmation dress. Not my most stellar make but again Miss 7 adores it and that’s the most important thing of all! I think it’s in her Top 5!

Giselle's confirmation

Giselle’s confirmation – she is doing well not to shiver. It was freezing and they made us wait outside in a cold wind for 20 minutes! Lovely!

APRONS
This might seem a weird choice but I loved making these – thank you Karen for a light-hearted sewalong that really got me to make something completely different! I loved photographing them – particularly when the tourists started taking pictures of me too! They are just fun. I’ve even made an amazing one as a Christmas gift. Yes, yes! You can see it soon!

Butterick B5474, view E: Strawberry Fields Forever

Butterick B5474, view E: Strawberry Fields Forever. Oh and that? In the background? That’s coathanger – also known as Sydney Harbour Bridge.

NOT SQUEE OR TWEE… JUST ME… Sewaholic Alma: View B

Sewaholic Alma - not squee or twee... just me

Sewaholic Alma – not squee or twee… just me

I’ve been in love with this fabric ever since I spied it in the deserted rayon fabric corner of Lincraft.

Sewaholic Alma: sneak peek

Sewaholic Alma fabric – I LOVE these birdies

I kept going back and stroking the roll… and not buying it… I eventually realised that I would always regret not buying it once it disappeared and I couldn’t visit it any more. I could only imagine it as a top – with very few seams or darts – so I purchased a metre to soothe the birdie craving.

A couple of weeks ago I decided to make another Alma and it occurred to me that the birdies might work. I love this Sewaholic pattern, I’m not much into fuss and the simplicity of this design really appeals to me, no buttons, no frills, no tucks just a blouse that sits beautifully. I adore my first Alma (how could I not with all the compliments I get when I wear it!) and the love affair looks set to continue!

1204 Sewaholic Alma Envelope Art

1204 Sewaholic Alma – a beautiful versatile blouse

I decided to make View B which is the Peter Pan collar version. It feels a little ‘sweet’ to me so I decided to add a black contrast collar to take down the ‘twee’ factor a notch.

This pattern is a cinch to sew but I took my time. As it is rayon it is a little more ‘flighty’ than an obedient voile or lawn. I cut it out carefully and did the best I could to line up those slightly wonky wires that the birdies are perched upon.

As with my first Alma, I french seamed the shoulders and non-zip side. I even managed to get the fabric lines to match up at the front and back darts.

Sewaholic Alma - the side zipper

Sewaholic Alma – the side zipper

I also used the trick I learnt when I made the MariaDenmark tshirt & Simplicity 1880 – setting in the sleeve flat. How much easier does that make setting in a sleeve!!!

I wore it to work today – paired with my Maria Denmark Yasmin Yoke skirt. This skirt is very simple to make/fit and even has two little pockets. It’s available as a PDF download, and the pattern itself is just 12 pages! I don’t tend to print out the instructions, I read them on Evernote on my iPhone or iPad as I sew to save paper. There is also the benefit of enlarging bits to read! Maria sent me this skirt when she released the pattern – and it’s just taken me ages to photograph it (sorry Maria!). I whipped up two of these skirts over two nights – and I made this black one from the leftovers from my Sewaholic Thurlows. It’s very easy to fit. You sew the front and back and then pin the sides together and take in as necessary before you sew the side seams.

Sewaholic Alma - work blouse

Sewaholic Alma – as a work blouse. I’ve paired this with Maria Denmark a-line Yasmin Yoke skirt! Photo by my daughter!

I’ve also made the Yasmin Yoke skirt in a burgundy ‘butter suede’ (whatever synthetic concoction that is!). So will need to photograph that too sooner or later! This skirt can be made in two lengths – as usual I favoured the ‘hussy’ length version 🙂

Slight Mishap

Despite being so careful in the making of this Alma, I botched the collar.

Like Sew {MM} when I added the facings to the neckline, I flipped them over to discover that the collar did not meet perfectly in the middle. I decided I could live with it. I even bought buttons to sew in the little gap to make it look deliberate.

Then we had a family trip to Sydney and on the way home I decided I could not live with it after all. I just felt as the collar was such a strong contrast to the rest of the top it was just too ‘obvious’ any attempt to disguise it would just look like a botched job.

Even though I had trimming back the neckline seam allowances, I unpicked about two-thirds of the front neckline. I ran a gathering stitch across the blouse body neckline I had unpicked. I used this to pull the neckline in just a tiny bit, re-basted the collar back onto the blouse, re-attached the facings and hey presto collar perfect! If I make this version of Alma again I will definitely be running that row of gathering stitches around the neckline before attaching the collar and facings.

I should have taken photos of the botched job but I had been sucked into a black hole of sewing pain & dilemma and could not think of anything else but my collar!! Sorry!

I’m really pleased with this ‘fix’ as you can’t tell that there is any gathering at all – it is very minor. And it saved the birdies from a fate worth than death… the rag bag!!

WHAT I LEARNT

Sometimes it’s better to just get up and walk away from the sewing machine when something goes wrong. Leave it for a few days but don’t give up on a problem. Sometimes the solution will pop into your head when you least expect it. Just let it happen don’t let the frustration or disappointment overwhelm you. Remember it’s a hobby not a life/death scenario. 🙂

VERDICT

I’m really happy with this blouse. I feel like I’ve somehow blended ‘twee & squee’ and come up with something that is very ‘me’.

Sewaholic Alma - not squee or twee

Sewaholic Alma – not squee or twee. Picture taken late in the afternoon – light not so good!

DETAILS
Inspiration:
Marie of A Sewing Odyssey
Alma Blouse: pattern from Sew Squirrel (no postage charge to Aussie stitchers!!). Fabric: rayon blend from Lincraft. Size 0
Maria Denmark Yasmin Yoke Skirt: Pattern available on Craftsy. Fabric from Lincraft – leftovers from my Sewaholic Thurlows.
Vogue 1247 skirt: Blogged about here.

Made-by-me family

Made-by-me family. Me in Vogue 1247 skirt & Alma blouse. LIttle Miss in her confirmation dress that I made/designed.

Spring/Summer Plans 2012

Tonight I jumped into the fabric cupboard and I eventually re-surfaced clutching a rather large pile of fabric and patterns.

I’m totally inspired to sew (yes even more so than usual). Today it was warm. After work I put my floral Cambie on and I was in heaven. WATCH OUT SPRING – here I come!

First project will be… wanted to make this and then some tweetin’ with House of Pinheiro got me all inspired!

Megan Neilsen's Darling Ranges

Megan Neilsen’s Darling Ranges with a Lisette cotton voile. I’m a little concerned it’s too ‘busy’ but I think I will use tiny buttons and very tiny red-stitched buttonholes…. still thinking… this fabric is divine. So so soft. Maybe fine red piping along the neckline???

and then perhaps I will make this (I’ve made this skirt twice – best skirt EVER and didyoumakethat has inspired me to go again!)… if you haven’t got this pattern – first smack yourself and then go out and get yourself a copy – it is worth it – even at full price!)

Vogue 1247 Spring Summer Plan 2012

Vogue 1247 top: cotton rayon. Skirt: black denim

and then this cutie-pie…

Colette Patterns Chantilly

Colette Patterns Chantilly with a fine cotton voile. I’m really excited about this combination – but a little scared of the pattern. Advice anyone?

a nice little shirt (provided Burda doesn’t get nasty with me)…

Burda - and yes, more cotton voile!

Burda – and yes, more cotton voile!

and this little work number…

Vogue 1220 - black cross-hatched cotton with a tiny bit of stretch

Vogue 1220 – black cross-hatched cotton with a tiny bit of stretch. Sensible stuff for work…. I fell in love with pattern months ago on Catherine Daze’s blog – then winter came…

or…

Simplcity Cynthia Rowley - shiny slippery stuff.

Simplicity Cynthia Rowley – slippery stuff which is making me nervous. After Punkmik’s magnificent Licorice I keep thinking… maybe this fabric…

a few more tops…

Op shop floral cotton

Op shop floral cotton – Sewaholic Pendrell and Alma (maybe long-sleeved or 3/4 sleeve)

and just in case you were wondering where the Cambies were!

Sewaholic Cambie - pretty little cotton skulls

Sewaholic Cambie – pretty little cotton skulls with a full skirt just to girly them up! An a-line denim with red polka dots is also planned – fabric in the wash…

A few things are ‘yet to be decided’….

Black gingham

Black gingham – shirtdress and a blouse… I’m thinking a blouse with the red birdie fabric skirt below (with a nice black belt)…

with…

Red cotton voile

Red cotton voile – perhaps a long skirt…

and then there is…

yet more cotton voile - blue birdies

yet more cotton voile – blue birdies. Fate undecided. I’m thinking a long loose kaftan top for the beach.

and a few more birdies….

More cotton voile - foliage and birdies

More cotton voile – foliage and birdies. I did buy this for Colette Chantilly but it’s been shunted! I keep thinking Butterick 5750 for this one….

and then there is this… (which I am a little obsessed with)

more cotton sateen - fate undecided

more cotton sateen – fate undecided – but I’m thinking there might be something in the Gertie’s book! And a simple skirt. I have a mighty 4m because I fell completely in love with it. I don’t know why!!

and I do like this…

Cotton poplin - roses on a black background

Cotton poplin – Colette Pastille keeps popping into my head. I think it needs to be a simple shift dress. This is the same pattern as the Cambie in my blog header but with a black background.

Perhaps Simplicity 2444 for this lovely cotton sateen?

Cotton sateen - fate unknown

Cotton sateen – thinking about Simplicity 2444

and I have a few other things planned…

  • simple straight mini-skirt in this fabric (there’s one in a Burda magazine I’ve got)
  • a Banksia blouse (not sure of the fabric but better make up my mind as there is a sewalong coming up!)
  • another Kelly skirt
  • a white loose button-up shirt. I can’t decide if this will be too much on me… probably I better stick to something more simple….

So not much to do then…. but I am SewBusyLizzy so I think I’ll handle it…

But you know, I could change my mind completely tomorrow… speaking of which I’m hoping to post some patterns from the stash tomorrow as part of…

SEWAHOLIC ALMA in print

It’s true. I’m a Sewaholic sewaholic.

Sewaholic Alma - view A

Sewaholic Alma – view A

I’ve made Alma and I love it. This is a seriously easy, sweet little blouse.

I’m no slouch in the sewing production line, but even I was amazed at how quickly this came together. I cut out one night and started sewing and finished the next. And neither session was a marathon effort. This included me adding some small ‘SewBusyLizzy finishing touches’.

After making Thurlow and Minoru which were cutting and stitching epics, this blouse was a breeze. Not too many pieces and very simple to put together. No naughty words were used in the making of this blouse.

I love the fact there are no buttons. I can feel overwhelmed by detail and pattern so this pattern offers a great compromise when paired with a busy print.

The drunk monkey came out to play during my top stitching. So I gave him a biscuit and put him to sleep in the corner while I unpicked it and fixed it up.

I decided to try a new way to finish the edges of my iron-on interfacing. I read about it on the Slapdash Sewist – who credited Sunny Girl. I put the facing and interfacing pieces right side together. Made a tiny seam along the edge. Turned the pieces right side out and then ironed the interfacing to the facing. I’m in love with this tricky little technique and will be using it in the future.

Sewaholic Alma - neat front facing

Sewaholic Alma – neat front facing. So much nicer looking than any other method I’ve seen!

Sewaholic Alma - neat back facing

Sewaholic Alma – neat back facing

I made size 0 based on the finished measurements as I didn’t want it too ‘blousy’.
I used a 25cm zip. When I started to sew in the 30cm invisible zipper I realised there was going to be hardly any seam left at the bottom and I would need to chop off some zipper. So I stopped and used a smaller zip. A 25cm zip was perfect.

I French seamed the shoulders and the zipper-less side. I also hand stitched the armhole binding down.

Sewaholic Alma - French seams

Sewaholic Alma – French seams

When I tried it on I was a bit freaked out by the sleeves. I’m not particularly good at girly girly stuff (after all one of my all-time favorite prints is camouflage, yes really). On my scrawny arms they were a bit twee and not so squee for me. I decided to make a little inverted pleat at the centre edge of each sleeve. Me likely.

Sewaholic Alma - a little tuck in the cap sleeves

Sewaholic Alma – a little tuck in the cap sleeves

I like everything about this blouse… the pattern, the fabric and the finish.  A little moment of joy 🙂

I feel there will be many more Almas to come. I love the long sleeve one…

Check out Sewaholic’s blog for links to the other great Almas by Marie, Karen, Debbie and Lauren.

Sewaholic Alma - view A

Sewaholic Alma – view A

Fabric: cotton voile
Pattern : Sewaholic Alma from Sew Squirrel.

Coming up… a mad little t-shirt made from a brand new pattern…