The SewDollyClackett that wasn’t… and a giveaway…

Posted on May 11, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

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(but there is a dress with bare-chested sheilas instead…
and I think Dolly Clackett would approve of that!)

I really did want to sew a SewDollyClackett dress. I’d love to tell you I have a great excuse. In all honesty, I am the busiest and most exhausted I’ve been in some time… but I always sew through those dark patches…

I love Roisin. I love her style. I love her sass. She’s an awesome sheila. She knocks out dresses like nobody’s business. She can be funny, blunt, honest, thoughtful… and always beautiful.

And you know what I love most about her? She’s Roisin – without apology. She sews exactly what she likes. She’s got crazy fabulous shoes, owns enough divinely feminine dresses to clothe a small nation’s Olympic team and has her very own quirky style. She’s intelligent, quick witted and sometimes soft & vunerable. And I bet that’s why Nic loves her so and wants to spend the rest of his life with her – because she is Roisin. There’s no one else quite like her.

And that’s why anyone loves us – because we are unique souls.

I did try to make a Dolly Clackett dress. Oh lord I did try. I sewed a great dress… the stripe matching was fierce and the print choice was perfect… and then the back gaped. Ever so slightly but I hated that.

SewNotDollyClackett – this is a Burda pattern (sorry can’t remember and I’m too tired to look it up)

So I took off the bodice. Unpleated the pleated skirt. Added a Cambie bodice… added a gathered skirt… and I still haven’t hemmed it… and I don’t know if I will…. because I’m not Roisin. And I felt bad about that for ages – because the whole point of the sewalong was to sew something in her style… but the inner SewBusyLizzy beast was roaring…

I tweeted rather cheekily if I could sew something else (ie not a SewDollyClackett style) – and Roisin said yes 🙂 (another reason why I love her so). I also think myself blessed enough with fabrics and patterns from other bloggers, designers and stores that I didn’t want to win any prize. However I did want to sew a dress for Roisin. I heaved a sigh of relief and decided to salute Dolly Clackett in SewBusyLizzy style.

Fortunately there was a hoard of fabulous, clever stitchers around the world that truly got into the spirit of SewDollyClackett – and paid her tribute in amazing style. Check them out! And congratulates to Sarah of Rhinestones & Telephones who organised this global sewing salute.

If I was going to be a wedding crasher, what better with a classical print featuring semi-nude ladies, knit fabric, self-drafted/frankenpatterned dress?

I’ve made this four times now… including a ‘lounge about at home animal print one’ which I knocked up because I had to re-drafted the back pattern piece… because it is MIA in the sewing room. It’s a very hacked blend of the infamous Vogue 1250 and Maria Denmark’s day to night dress – I also chiselled out the sides and shortened the midriff – it’s a perfect fit. It takes 40 minutes to make from scissors to hemming.

Still SewNotDollyClackett (wondering about the weird pose? I’m taking my sunnies off – because I always seem to have them on…)

The print is not cute quirky ‘Dolly Clackett’, instead there are a stack of classical ladies with bared chests so I figure it’s a nuded-up classical version of a Dolly Clackett novelty print…

Gallery Fabric from Tessuti Melbourne

I first saw this fabric on the Tessuti online store. Then I saw it in person at the Sydney March meet-up… and everyone looked at me like I had three heads and no brains in any of them. When I got home I realised that whilst I may not have any brains, my little dark heart wanted those nude ladies in my life. Fortunately it was still available in the Melbourne store! I chose this pattern as there are very few seams to break up this extraordinary and very busy print!

Wedding Crasher alert – and she’s got no shoes on!

And in case you are struggling to see the ‘ladies’ – here they are…

there’s a set of knockers on my stomach…

another set on my hip…

and another on my back…

My nine-year-old daughter has deemed this dress ‘very inappropriate’ – which of course makes me love it more (I’m guessing it’s a concern when a pre-tween daughter starts tut-tutting at her mother’s wardrobe). I’ve even worn it to work 🙂 I work in a cultural centre… why not?

I love this picture - not because it's a great one of me - but that 'window' in the print looks like a peephole into my soul... or belly button LOL

I love this picture – not because it’s a great one of me – but that ‘window’ in the print looks like a peephole into my soul… or the ocean behind.. or just my belly button LOL. With a print like this there are always going to be placement issues. My major concern was to get as many naked ladies as possible onto the dress LMAO

I wore this to High Tea (I’m sitting at the front like Lady Muck) when I popped up and stayed with Busy Lizzie in Brizzy in March (who a delightful host and felt like a long-lost sister – and her husband Josh put up with a million and one questions about beef-jerky making – awesome people).

I’m just me. And Roisin is gloriously Roisin… and that’s the way it’s supposed to be.

Love you madly Roisin – and I’m sending you every best wish for a fantastic, interesting, slightly crazy and very happy future with your lovely Nic. Mwah.

And my posing super coach has some wedding photo tips for you…

She’s happy to travel if you need wedding photography advice… I will of course need to accompany her as she’s a minor (with a major personality)

although if you want to travel for your wedding photos – we have plenty of scenery on offer…

Shelly Beach, Port Macquarie – pretty even when it’s overcast

oh… and the giveaway?

I had a second blog birthday last month – and typically of me – I missed it.

So comment away – and send your wedding wishes to the perfectly one-of-a-kind Dolly Clackett (and Nick of course!)… because we wouldn’t have her any other way…

I’ll send the winner a package of something… not sure what yet… but things that make me smile (and some sewing things!) and might make you smile too – because what else is there?

And what two year celebration post would be complete without me typically barefoot, on the beach with sunnies on?

“Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” Oscar Wilde

Sinbad & Sailor Hepworth Dress – Instant Classic

Posted on May 4, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

I’m back – and this time with a new dress and a new pattern! (sorry, think the camera lens needs a clean!). I’ve been pattern testing a new dress for Hannah of Sinbad & Sailor.

Hepworth Dress, pattern from Sinbad & Sailor

This is the Hepworth Dress by Sinbad & Sailor.

“The Hepworth is a beautiful sleeveless dress pattern with a princess seam bodice joined at the waist to a flared skirt which includes handy hip pockets. The fit and flare shape gives you a flattering silhouette while evoking the organic and modernist sculptures of its namesake Barbara Hepworth“

Please visit Sinbad & Sailor to see the line drawings as my fabric choice was not so great at showing those… although it’s perfect for illustrating the feminine silhouette.

I love the simplicity of this design – never underestimate the beauty of simplicity. The Hepworth has a classic shape, easy fit, softly flared skirt, princess seamed bodice and pockets – it’s just so easy to wear. I decided to make it up in classic navy linen. I’ve been saving this little piece of linen for about 12 months. It’s ‘just’ linen – nothing too fancy – but it’s got this lovely drape, beautiful inky navy tone and particularly beautiful sheen to it. When I saw Hepworth I thought navy linen would suit its classic silhouette.

Hepworth Dress by Sinbad & Sailor Patterns

Hepworth – a graceful shape and not too fitted, it skims over my frame and I love it.

I know some people prefer lining to facings but give Hepworth facings a try. Hannah has drafted the facings so they are slightly smaller, thus rolling in the facings so understitching is not required (unless you are an understitching junkie like myself). Hepworth also has a particularly magical way to finish the facing – by encasing the shoulder seam within the facing. It’s rather mind bending – however as I had sewn the Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat (I couldn’t bear to blog it in the middle of summer – just seemed so wrong!) I’ve encounter this before in a slightly different form. If you get stuck I would recommend checking out the Minoru sewalong post about how to sew sleeve hem linings – the Hepworth finishing technique reminded me of this.

Of course the most sensible thing to do is make it up when Hannah has a sewalong and have her walk you through it step by step.

and with a belt…

One thing I ABSOLUTELY love about all of Sinbad & Sailor’s patterns is that there is a print-at-home version and a copy shop version. The copy shop version is A0 which means it is easy and economical to print. Many indie pattern companies supply their copy shop versions as 36 inch wide sheets – and I have found these near impossible to get printed easily and cheaply here in Australia. Most copy shops can print a b/w A0 for about $4.50 – while you wait.

It’s getting colder here… I can actually see this as a brilliant pinafore for winter with a collared shirt underneath… hmmmm now there’s a thought… It’s a loose enough fit on me that I think I could manage it in ponte with no zip… tempting…

Photos taken in a last-minute rush before ELH disappeared for nine days fishing – and the weather was turning nasty!

Pattern: Hepworth Dress by Sinbad & Sailor
Fabric: Navy Linen from Lincraft
Sizing: I made the UK 8 – I could do with a size 6, I need to take some out between my bust and shoulder (I’m shorter than I appear – trust me – LOL).
Also see: Rachel of House of Pinheiro & Winnie of Scruffy Badger (they have been far more exciting and used floral fabrics! Winnie also has some ‘inside’ shots – sorry I’ve been so busy I just don’t have time to take some!)

I’ve got a few more posts waiting… life has been frantic – I’m just concluding a nine-day sojourn as a single working mother while ELH is away trout fishing in the Snowy Mountains. Next up is helping out at the annual school fete and my daughter’s ballet eisteddfod which the weekend after the school fete – I think she’s in five group dances and one solo… argh… and I’m just off to volunteer on one of the Ironman aid stations on the run leg this evening… apparently the competitors need a drink & nourishment while running a marathon (this is after a 3.6km swim & 180km bike ride)

Mood Sewing Network – a Mini debut

Posted on April 11, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

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*faints* *gasps* *giggles* *runs outside in pjs to read email to husband*

That was my reaction to receiving an email from the revered fabric kingdom Mood Fabrics NYC expressing an interest in little old me, Sew Busy Lizzy in far-flung Australia joining the Mood Sewing Network.

My first outing as a Mood Sewing Network blogger

So many bloggers I have followed and admired since I started blogging are part of this network – the skill, personality and individual style of this crew is quite fabulous. In fact since I started sewing I’ve become so enamoured of Mood Fabrics it was already on my travel plans for 2014! Yes I will be in NY in October – I can’t wait!

I can’t tell you how I agonised over my first Mood make. I felt I needed to be fancy, couture… then a sewing friend said that perhaps I was asked because I had a distinctive style, perhaps Mood just wanted me to be ‘me’. Suddenly it all became easy.

It’s so easy to become swallowed up by what you might imagine other people expect of you. Defined by your own expectations. Trying to be the best version of yourself – which too often is framed by what you imagine others expect.

At the end of the day?

“Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” (quote often attributed to Oscar Wilde)

Mood has so many fabulous fabrics… the range feels endless. Fabulous fabrics destined to be ‘fashion’ makes - fabulous individual creations, the very reason why we love to sew. I really wanted my first Mood make to be ‘me’… in extraordinary fabric (of course – this is Mood Fabric after all)… something I couldn’t obtain elsewhere…

So denim it was (I have suffered from a lifelong denim affliction – I strongly believe there is no such thing as too much denim in a wardrobe, jackets, jeans, vests, skirts, shorts, capris, dresses – just waiting for a medical term for this obsession. True, I don’t ‘do’ ‘double denim’… this girl has some standards).

Not just any denim but Italian denim… printed with a bronze damask design… I fell in love with this Italian Printed Denim. I love the slight grunge style of the print. It’s decadent but not quite perfect, it’s not gold but bronze.

Mood Fabrics: Italian Printed Denim

I’ve often read about how metallic denims lose their lustre or print in the wash… me being me decided to throw caution to the wind when preparing this fabric for sewing. I threw it in the washing machine on a ‘normal’ cycle, hung it up to dry… and guess what? The world didn’t end.

And then I sewed… a Grainline Studio Moss Mini Skirt. While some might argue that a simpler pattern might have sufficed and the construction details are hidden, I love the fact this fabric gives this simple yet classic fly-front skirt design a rockstar makeover.

Mood Sewing Network: Grainline Moss Mini Skirt in Italian Printed Denim

I’ve found this pattern wants to sit low-slung on me – which delivers the look I was after and suits the grunge element of the design.

Lovely design details… front slant pockets, top stitching, fly front and more – I would even been fooled into thinking it was RTW!

OK. Yes. Rather proud of this pattern matching. #sorrynotsorry

OK. Yes. Rather proud of this pattern matching – yes there is a vertical seam running down my centre back. #sorrynotsorry for showing off.

Just a few tips when sewing with this fabric… a part of the selvedge is not printed – so I decided to trace around the pattern pieces with tailor’s chalk on the right side to avoid running pieces onto the non-printed section (you can just see later on what happened when I didn’t do this with the inside waistband). I’m that girl who is guilty of squeezing every inch out of her fabric. So I traced each piece carefully. While it takes a little longer it’s easier to pattern match and you will make the most of your yardage.

Going crazy with chalk.

This fabric did not bother my Bernina sewing machine at all and I used a denim needle. Likewise my Brother overlocker had no issue with the fabric. While the drape is stiff, the fabric itself is not overwhelmingly heavy.

I did quite a bit of top stitching which finishes the skirt beautifully by holding down the seam allowances and adding a professional finish. Fabric that is this fabulous deserves a good finish. I’ve rather proud of its innards too – that’s what is so nice about being a sewing blogger – I can’t wear my makes inside out but I can show you guys!

The insides – because I can’t wear it inside out…

I couldn’t find a bronze button that perfectly matched (I’m a little bit OCD about some details) so I finished the waistband with a heavy black trouser hook & bar from my stash. I also chose to use a metal jeans zip from my stash as it adds to the ready-to-wear finish of the garment. If sewing a fly front freaks you out completely – I strongly recommended a few things:-

Use Jen of Grainline Studio’s excellent fly front tutorial
Get your hands on a RTW garment with a fly front and use it as a reference (and do yourself a favour and use a women’s garment as a man’s fly does up the other way)…
and if you are terrified – try making a muslin first to gain some confidence.

oh and I’m also not keen on unzipping my fly while the skirt is on – so here is the non-risqué version of the fly front

Funnily enough as I was hemming this garment a blog post from Grainline Studios popped up and guess what? It’s Moss Making Month over with Stephanie at Makes the Things and Sara at An Elemental Life – how’s that for coincidence – for once I’m running ahead of schedule. Unintentionally but I’m OK with that.

We are hitting autumn in my part of the world – it never gets truly cold in my beautiful seaside Port Macquarie, Australia. I’m often barefoot on the beach in winter and we never see a frost. Seriously. However the days are getting shorter and it was a race against sunset to take these pictures after work. I love how the fading evening light really brings out the amazing metallic print of this fabric. A little bit rockstar!

If I’m not looking my usual relaxed self – I was fretting about the fading light and my deadline… but I was also taking tips from the Posing Super Coach…

I know – heaven help me when she hits her teenage years. She’s going to be a whole lot of hilarious trouble.

Thank you Mood Fabrics… I’ve got a mini skirt my non-sewing friends are lusting after!

Still figuring out how to wear these boots… but I’m getting used to them

The good news… as I originally planned to make jeans… I think I’ve got enough for a fitted dress or a high waisted skirt… watch this space…

Fabric: Mood Fabrics: Italian Printed Denim
Pattern: Grainline Studio Moss Mini Skirt, size 4 (as suggested to me via Instagram by Unique Schmuck – thanks Oanh!)

Also See: Vogue 8330 skinny jeans by Kadiddlehopper I was so tempted to make jeans initially – but it would have been hard to top these amazing jeans…

Now there is a ton of awesome makes going on all the time over at the Mood Sewing Network – so get yourself over there now and put them in your blog reader…

Drape Drape 3: No.12 Draped Wrap ‘Dress’

Posted on March 26, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

also known as ‘A Wardrobe Malfunction Waiting To Happen’

After the modest, sweet delight of Sewaholic maxi skirt Gabriola, I appear to have done a massive u-turn and created something that could barely be described as a ‘dress’. Sorry about that! The Drape Drape journey continues.

I’ve come to think of this make as the ‘wardrobe malfunction waiting to happen’. Or perhaps a ‘lounge dress’ best worn in the safety of my own home, having late night drinks on the lounge with ELH!

wrapped side view

Funnily enough my draped singlet dress was described by Drape Drape 2 as a ‘tunic’ and I easily wear it as a dress (in fact I now have three of them – sorry not all photographed!)… whereas this ‘creation’ is described as a ‘dress’ but… it covers far less than the singlet dress!

This number is No.12 from Drape Drape 3. And this is how it’s showcased in a book – yes more hamburger-hungry models with poor posture. Then again… maybe she’s stooped over trying to hide her legs… let’s give her the benefit of the doubt!

The ‘dress’ as illustrated in Drape Drape 3

This ‘not-dress’ was quite easy to put together. Much, much easier than the deep cowl-necked number. Unfortunately we have been enduring some rain (yes, not always sunny here) and the poor light really doesn’t show off the black/silver beauty of this fabric from Tessuti – purchased on my recent trip to the Sydney Bloggers meet-up organised by Made By Melanie.

The back view – somewhat more respectable.

I do adore the back of the dress and the lovely lazy draping that sweeps across my back at an angle. That’s created by gathering up one side of the skirt and sewing it to the bodice side… yes the bodice side. That’s what creates that rather ‘raunchy’ leg reveal – there’s just no fabric on one side below waist level.

I actually pinned the draped section over a little to cover more of my leg for the pictures. Yes, the draped bow helps cover my leg… almost up to my HIP! *faints*

ummmm, I think I just heard my mother faint.

The draped ‘bow’ is created by making three pleats and then gathering the whole section up, including the pleats, then sewing it across the dress and creating the ‘wrap’. It does create a lovely draped section… perhaps it just needs to be longer… much, much longer…

at least the ‘draped bow’ is covering something!

I did use my Janome coverstitch machine on the neckline and skirt hem – I still need to practice more with the beast. I did hem the ‘draped bow’ but it made it seem less fluid. So I unpicked it – massive job. Then used my overlocker to roll hem the ‘bow’ section – and I also used the overlocker rolled hem function to finish the sleeve hems. This gave the edge of the bow & sleeves a much lighter finish, slightly fluted lettuce edge hem – much better for this make that needs to retain its softness to create the lovely draped lines.

Draped side view – love this view. I feel almost respectable

The sleeves are just sewn into armhole and the underarm seam is left free – so they feel ethereal wings to wear.

I find this design quite interesting. It’s got an incredibly immodest leg line… the neckline is not much better… then these enormously billowing sleeves – it’s a fascinating mix and I do rather like it. But how to wear it?? I slapped on my old trusty black skinny jeans when I got home and it looks OK. Sorry about the foggy lens… I think that was a raindrop!

I have had some people suggest I should wear a slip under it – but I disagree. A slip would change how the dress moves and I think spoil the lines of the design – I think it’s better as a tunic.

as a tunic… now that’s better!

Pattern: No.12 from Drape Drape 3 published by Laurence King
Fabric: black/silver knit from Tessuti, Surrey Hills store, Sydney

This must qualify for the Sew Sexy Sewalong! Yes?

and an out-take with my crazy little cracker – Miss (just-turned) 9. She explaining how I could pose better as a superhero. Doh! Why didn’t I think of that!

Superheroes!

Sunshine Sewaholic Gabriola – a mega yellow maxi skirt

Posted on March 16, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

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I do love maxis. They can be such a statement piece without being overdressed. I particularly love them in strong solids – they pair beautifully with tanks, vests, jackets and accessories. I had been searching for the perfect pattern…

…then along came Gabriola by the ever-clever Tasia of Sewaholic.

While I struggle to wear yellow, I do adore it… and Gabriola screamed to be yellow. I just had a picture in my head of it paired with a white tank, denim and neutral-tone beads. And here’s what happened…

Sewaholic Gabriola Maxi Skirt

The chevrons hip yokes and lower skirt panels do really beg to be seen. While they create a lovely shape even concealed with a patterned fabric, they do set this particular design apart in the world of maxi skirts. So why not show them off?

Sewaholic Gabriola Maxi Skirt – side view and seam details

CONSTRUCTION

As I’ve earlier confessed, I’m not as tall as I appear in my blog (apparently the camera adds 10 pounds to some but it also adds 10 centimetres vertically to me). I love a maxi skirt to be MAXI. I like to wear them with heels (it’s actually unusual to see me without heels on – except at the beach of course).. However Gabriola is quite a lengthy affair. I ended up taking at least 2 to 3 inches off the length of this skirt. It was LOOOONNNNGG.

I made a size 2. The waistband is a little big but the overall fit is great. I know. I’m small and it’s just a stroke of genetic luck. I actually reluctant usually to blog what sizes I make. There are a few bloggers out there that make narky comments about people like me – but like being green – it’s not always easy being small either. People say nasty stuff both in the virtual and real world – because apparently I’m 10kgs lighter if you remove my thick skin. Anyways, such is life.

A really lovely casual skirt. I think I could wear this anywhere.

Gabriola is a most agreeable lass and is not tricky to construct. Perhaps the front seam which pivots where the front skirt joins the yoke might be difficult for newbies but it’s OK if you are patient.

Seam detail – I love how the skirt falls. So pretty.

I did French seam all my seams – with the exception of the front seam where the skirt joins the yoke and the back seam (which I roll hemmed the edges of). I used French seams as I decided the fabric would clearly show all the seam allowances so I wanted them to be consistent and neat. I also managed to get all my seams to meet – which made me feel most chuffed!

I simply overlocked the hemline, turned it over twice and machine stitched it in place.

I do find the waistband sits away from my waist a little – which I suspect is caused by the fact it is drafted as a straight waistband rather than a curved one? I also found the waistband could do with being a little longer as the overlap is quite small. I’m planning to run the zipper up through the waistband next time. Most of my RTW maxis are finished this way and I think it is neater than a button or hook/eye fastener.

I used an invisible zipper. I put in a normal zipper but felt it looked messy. I couldn’t find a yellow invisible zipper so I used a white one… fortunately it actually is invisible so it doesn’t matter too much. I don’t plan to get undressed in public so my secret is safe.

Back view. I know it’s long but I like them to sweep the floor and I’m on an uneven pathway – I’m a beach bum like that.

It’s just a plain rayon, nothing fancy. I had a vision of a yellow skirt in my head for some time and this just seemed the perfect opportunity to make that a reality. The fabric is a lovely colour but it does crease with wear – which I hate – and it would be much better lined. I think it would be lovely as a lined skirt in a soft floaty solid voile. This one gets rather saucy in strong sunlight…

hello – I think I’m on fire!

I’ve made this as a muslin for my next version (think silk charmeuse – did I just hear you moan in anticipation?).

Did you notice something else? I’ve got SHOES on! During the course of this week I found a word to describe me – Nelipot “one who walks without shoes; one who goes barefoot“. I shall wear that description as a badge of pride!

And while it’s a little clingy – I love the movement in this picture. Experience the full swish of Gabriola…

Gabriola – she likes to make a sweeping entrance!

And if you need another excuse to try this gorgeous pattern – why not enter the Sew Dramatic, Sew Gabriola” Competition at Stitch 56! You can win a $100 voucher and buy more patterns!

Pattern: Sewaholic Gabriola. Purchased from Stitch 56.
Fabric: Yellow rayon from Spotlight

Also see: Cirque Du Babe | Lilacs & Lace

And yes, I’m also not at the beach – I’m on a pathway behind my house… koalas live here…