Category Archives: Tops

The Unblogged – Penny Raglan by Grainline Studios

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or more than one Penny for your thoughts… 

I impulsively bought the Grainline Penny Raglan – after resisting it for quite some time. Even after I bought it I thought “did I really pay that much for an oversized raglan tshirt pattern??” Yes I did.

It was money well spent. I’ve made four of these and I love them all. It’s the tshirt I reach for every other weekend and afternoon. It went so quickly from my sewing machine into my wardrobe I barely thought to blog it.

Described by Grainline as “The Penny Raglan is an oversized tee perfect for summer fun. The breezy shape keeps the fabric from clinging so you can stay cool while looking great.”

Penny Raglan, Grainline Studios

Penny Raglan, Grainline Studios. I hate these pictures – taken months ago. Just having a bad day 😦

My first one, pictured here, was sewn from a double-sided knit, stripes one side and dark grey marle on the other. I simply flipped the fabric for the sleeves… and hey presto, saved on some stripe-matching trauma. Yay for contrast raglan sleeves! This is a rather heavy knit but I actually like the body the knit has and how boxy it is. Not to everyone’s taste but I’ve worn it a lot – so clearly my taste.

Is it flattering? Not particularly… but it’s perfect for lazy days. I like it with skinny jeans.

Is it huge? Yes. Massive. The neckline is wide and the armholes deep. Sometimes I like that. I made size 0 which matches my measurements.

I think I added an inch in length as I favour lower cut jeans and have a longer torso.

Penny Raglan - back view

Penny Raglan – back view. I was post-gym and in hockey mother Saturday morning mode – hence the sports crop top. Hockey has been over for months – which shows how far behind I am!

I have no doubt I will try it in a light knit sooner or later… but I need to sew some dresses and skirts for summer first.

Penny Raglan - contrast mostaches.

Penny Raglan – contrast mustaches. Life selfie (again). The ‘matching shirt is simply reversed – black jersey main and mustache sleeves.

My second and third were from a mustache print and black jersey and the fourth a blue floral french terry (no pictures sorry). My daughters love these oversized tees too and are eagerly waiting for my cast-offs… The black jersey one with mustache sleeves has already been claimed by the ‘posing coach’ as a PJ top.

It’s simple to make, allows for some fun sleeve or neckband options. And it’s the easiest thing to wear with jeans.

I sewed all seams with my overlocker (pattern is designed with seam allowances for this). I did pin and use my machine to first attach the neckband before serging it as serged ‘oops’ are much harder to fix!. I used my coverstitch to finish the hems.

If you prefer a fitted tshirt – this is not the pattern for you!

I have much love for the humble Grainline Penny Raglan. Simple, basic, easy to wear.

Perhaps unblogged but not unworn.

Pattern: Penny Raglan by Grainline Studios, size 0
Fabrics: Make It Fabrics Brisbane (stripes) and Spotlight Stores Australia (mustache & floral)

Tunic Bible Winner…

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Wow thanks to your huge response on the Tunic Bible giveaway – unfortunately there is only one winner… and (determined by random number generator) the winner of the Tunic Bible winner is jaelh!

The Tunic Bible

The Tunic Bible

You can grab a copy of the Tunic Bible at C&T Publishing – all new customers receive a 30% discount by signing up on their website and the ebook is now available. Or of course there is also Amazon and other retailers.

Note: for this post I received a digital copy of the book The Tunic Bible from C&T Publishing to review. All opinions my own.

The Tunic Bible – a review & giveaway (part 1)

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(Giveaway now closed)

My sewing is behind schedule. As much as I don’t like to think the my life requires a schedule, the simple reality is when you are working fulltime with kids and a hobby blog… a degree of planning is necessary!

Lately my life has been dedicated to juggling a fulltime job and my eldest daughter’s very busy dance schedule and her participation in the local dance eisteddfod. More about the dancing & dancewear in another post – as I ended up making more than ‘just’ a tutu!

Today I’m here to review the new book The Tunic Bible: One Pattern, Interchangeable Pieces, Ready-to-Wear Results by Sarah Gunn and Julie Starr.

Julie Starr is well known for her gorgeous contributions to Pattern Review and Sarah Gunn needs little introduction to the online sewing world courtesy of her blog Goodbye Valentino and Mood Sewing Network – in fact she was one of the first sewing bloggers I discovered. Together they have written The Tunic Bible, a huge achievement and exciting development for them both! Congratulations.

Julie Starr and Sarah Gunn, authors of The Tunic Bible

Julie Starr and Sarah Gunn, authors of The Tunic Bible

I’m in the middle of making up my ‘tunic’ from this book and decided not to rush and to share it on a separate post because…

  1. I like to finish my project thoughtfully and neatly; and
  2. focus on the book.

I think it’s easy to just look at garment and not really know what you might be purchasing when you buy a book on impulse after seeing one garment from it.

I’ve been provided with a digital copy to review. I confess I do find it difficult to read a book online or on my ipad so I ended up printing it out in mini booklet form so I could get a general sense of the layout and feel. The paper copy is still on it’s way

MY FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Now like many of you I suspect, I thought… how on earth do you write a book about tunics? I thought that because my ‘notion’ of a tunic is a garment that finishes at upper to mid thigh, a placket style neckline – with or without sleeves. And as a general rule – modest.

And yes, the tunic as you know it is definitely this book… alongside a seemingly endless array of tunic, and dresses – mini/maxi in this book.

the-cover

or if you prefer to see them on ‘real’ people…

Sarah Gunn & Julie Staff (centre) ... that long print maxi dress sold me on the versatility of 'the tunic' if only I could find suitable fabric.

Sarah Gunn & Julie Staff (centre) … that long print maxi dress sold me on the versatility of ‘the tunic’ if only I could find suitable fabric.

WHAT’S COVERED

I’ve decided to include the Contents page from my ‘review copy’ so you get a good overview of what is covered in this book.

contents-page

Contents: The Tunic Bible by Sarah Gunn & Julie Starr

 

The books does provide you with a full overview of all the possible options – and each version of the ‘tunic’ is accompanied by a description of the different style ‘elements’ that have been used as well as the type of fabric, trimming and embellishment.

There is a array of necklines and collar types to consider, sleeves (including a puffed and split sleeve), fitted vs loose silhouettes and how to embellish and trim your tunic. They also cover suitable types of fabrics – the options range from silk and linen to lace and knit options.

There is also a gallery of home sewing personalities who have made up a wide range of ‘tunics’ in all lengths, fits and fabrics. The book itself is packed with a huge range of different tunics – there must have been A LOT of sewing going on during the making of this book! I believe Sarah and Julie sewed approximately 60 tunics between them.

Tunics from The Tunic Bible by Sarah Gunn & Julie Starr

There’s more to a tunic than meets the eye

CONSTRUCTION

The pattern is provided full-size on a tear-out jumbo sized sheet. Hooray for not printing off A4 sheets and sticking them together!

There is a ‘general assembly order’ provided with an order of construction provided and also a seam finishing order.The construction instructions to me are more than adequate – however if you are an absolutely beginner you make want to google a few things BUT if you have basic sewing knowledge the book provides adequate guidance through the contruction of all the different elements: the types of plackets, collar finishes (including a ruffle of course – I would expect nothing less from Sarah!).

I wouldn’t say that there is ‘fitting’ advice in this book – other than the suggestion to make a muslin, what to check and a resource list on where to source support for alterations. I think this is adequate as it is not sold as a tunic fitting bible and fitting is such a varied and complex area unto itself.

RESOURCES

The book concludes with a range of physical (largely US based) and online fabric & trim stores, Sewing and alterations resources, online classes and links as well as sewing with speciality fabrics.

SIZING

I’ve been guilty of not to think to include sizing in my book reviews – and I always should. I’ve made the mistake of buying patterns that I fall outside the range of and I think it’s easy enough to do! So The Tunic Bible covers the following size range.

  • Begins at XS: Bust 33in/84cm, waist 28in/71cm, hip 35.5in/90cm
  • Finishes at XXL: 47in/121cm, waist 43in/109cm, hip 49.5in/126cm

FINAL THOUGHTS

I admit to being somewhat skeptical about 100+ pages on tunics – and I’m delighted that my skepticism was unfounded. I found the book interesting and inspiring – and a nice change from pretty dresses (as much as we all love them – me included).

There is a truckload of visual inspiration due to the large number of photographs and tunics that have been constructed for this book. This comprises more than half of the book – and reminder being dedicated to the construction of the tunic elements (yes, there are a lot of options!).

I think it may be a good starting point for someone who wants to experiment with a fairly simple base pattern to try a range of fabrics, trims and let their imagination run wild. The book does offer you a range of options to consider to make a unique garment each time.

For me, I can see a few simple tunic shift dresses for summer and perhaps a floaty version with sleeves as a beach cover-up. I look forward to seeing the book in person.

GIVEAWAY

Now the giveaway – every stop of the blog tour has a copy to giveaway. Note it will be a hard copy for the US-based winners and an electronic copy for those based outside the US.
Would you like a copy? To go in the lucky draw, leave a comment below and you might just win yourself your own Tunic Bible (courtesy of C&T Publishing). The lucky winner will be announced October 11! Where else can you enter the draw?
Or if you can’t wait, you can grab one at C&T Publishing – all new customers receive a 30% discount by signing up on their website and the ebook is now available.

Note: for this post I received a digital copy of the book The Tunic Bible from C&T Publishing to review. All opinions my own.

This post first appeared on www.sewbusylizzy.com

 

Indie Pattern Month 2016 (+ Waffle Patterns silk Warabi Tunic)

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Over at The Monthly Stitch they have regular monthly challenge or event. I like it, I don’t take part (I’m just not that organised in my sewing life) but I love to read all the different posts from all sorts of bloggers from around the world.

This June they are running Indie Pattern Month, and as part of that they have created ‘bundles’ of patterns, enabling you to try a number of different designers at the reduced price. I’ve really enjoyed all the interview posts with designers involved in Indie Pattern Month – a really interesting read. Some people prefer to support independent pattern designers and others are strictly Big 4 customers. I like both, I buy patterns that appeal to me. It’s that simple.

Indie Pattern Month, June 2016

Indie Pattern Month, June 2016

Yes, this post is an advertisement for the Bundle and I received the ‘Get Away Bundle‘ for free to blog about it here.

I don’t say ‘yes’ to many/anything things lately. Work, family and community commitments keep me very busy – and the sewing/blog is just a hobby for me – but I found the concept behind this month’s initiative interesting. Some of the funds raised will go towards creating a self-hosted platform for The Monthly Stitch blog, more storage space for the community’s imagery and the ability to implement other functions, such as forums. The online sewing community, in all its forms, I think is enormously valuable to supporting sewing as a hobby and viable industry. I don;t think I would have engaged with sewing to quite the degree I did and have without the online community support and resources it provides. Other funds will be going to the designers involved and a charity – this Bundle it’s going to Little Sprouts. So that’s where your money will end up. You end up with the patterns at a good price. Up to you!

What do you get in the Bundle and how much is it? Rather than provide a blow-by-blow description, pop over to the Monthly Stitch blog and read about it there.

Indie Pattern Month, June 2016

Indie Pattern Month, June 2016

You can buy the basic bundle for $21 or for $33 you can get all six patterns in the extended bundle (prices in $USD). This package is available until 6 July 2016.

The Sewing

My sewjo needed a kick in the butt. I already owned the Waffle Patterns Warabi (and another pattern from the bundle) but supporting this Bundle finally motivated me to sew the Warabi. So it’s not an intended pattern review so much as just me just sewing something I’ve been wanting to for quite some time from a pattern company that has long interested me – have you seen the Waffle jacket patterns? I do quite like the new Vanilla jumper/top, draped and very much my style. I printed the pattern eons ago and had the fabric waiting.

Warabi Tunic, Waffle Patterns

Warabi Tunic, Waffle Patterns. It’s a little big on me, should have made the smallest size and the silk just wants to collapse on itself, creating folds under the bust and arms… although it is a voluminous top.

Pattern: Warabi Tunic, Waffle Patterns

Simple! The ‘bodice is more or less the sleeves, wrapping over your shoulders and extending across the upper bust and back, creating a ‘crossover’ at the front. The front and back body pieces are bias cut. The neckline is finished with bias tape (self or purchased – I made mine from the silk), the hems are twice turned and it is French seamed throughout. If you haven’t tried some of these techniques, this is possibly a great way to dip your toe in without being overwhelmed with a complex pattern.

This silk didn’t mark with stitching, so I sewed a line of basting stitches which I used to turn/iron up the hems. I carefully removed the rows of basting stitches and machined the hems in place. This made for neat and even hems.

The print files are layered and you can choose which size/s to print. I think that’s very clever. There is A4 or A0 files – the presence of A0 files cheers my little anti-sticky-tape heart.

Waffle Patterns, Warabi Tunic

Waffle Patterns, Warabi Tunic

The instructions are clear and concise with clear illustrations. You are told what you need to know without excessive detail. I know some sewing people love lengthy instructions but there are ample words and illustrations to get you throughl.

Fabric

I’ve sewn this Warabi in a silk crepe de chine from Tessuti Fabrics, Sydney. It was a completely impulsive online purchase quite some time ago. It’s no longer on their site. Sorry!

Warabi Tunic, Waffle Patterns

Warabi Tunic, Waffle Patterns. Bonus bra strap and ‘derp’ face, must have been laughing at Banjo.

Thoughts

It’s a little wide on my shoulders. I think I need to put some stitches at the crossover part of the front bodice and also some strap keepers to stop the top sliding off my shoulders and wanting to pull apart at the bust.The seam keeps wanting to ripple, I suspect because of 1) fabric choice and 2) the bias bodice. I can live with it. And if I can’t, I’m pretty sure that it will find a new home easily, the fabric is gorgeous and feels lovely on the skin.

It feels oversized on me and perhaps not the best fabric choice. If I make it again, I will make the smallest size. I made size 36. Such is life!

It’s very simple but beautifully finished. It’s a pretty and slightly unusual shape. I think it could be a real winner in a summer wardrobe.

I think I need to wear a tank/camisole under this!

Oops… and a dog

Our gorgeous new/old dog - Jody, greyhound

Jody – she does this odd thing with her ears, most of the time one is pointing up and forwards; the other is lying backwards against her head. Maybe it’s got something to do with her hearing in both directions but it always makes me laugh.

I impulsively adopted this old greyhound a few months ago, my ‘horse dog’ as I call her.

She’s a former successful racer/breeder and she is nine. It’s unusual to see greyhounds of this ripe old age up for adoption, they are lucky to make it to five years in ‘the industry’. She must have been ‘a good dog’ to survive the odds.

While it’s not the smartest thing I’ve done, taking on such an old dog (average life span 10-12 years), I adore her and I feel good about it. She’s much larger than Banjo (in fact he runs under her hind legs if she is in his way) however they play together in the backyard and happily co-share the lounge room, bedding, family attention and meal time.

And if you are wondering what happened to that puppy… after five horrendous months of the puppy constantly attacking Banjo and Banjo having to live outside for the sake of peace, we admitted defeat (so hard to do) and found him a new household with multiple chihuahuas. It was pretty sad but everyone, Banjo and puppy included, are much happier. We were clearly just a halfway house on his way to his true home.

Our gorgeous new/old dog - Jody, greyhound

Our new/old dog – Jody, the greyhound. Yes it’s winter here and I’m barefoot again.

Pattern: Waffle Pattern Warabi Tunic (provided in the Indie Pattern Month June Get away Bundle – on sale until 6 July 2016).  Comes in sizes 34-48 (US 2-16) (UK 6-20), includes seam allowances/hems etc.
Fabric: Silk Crepe de Chine, Tessuti Fabrics (I think I paid $35 a metre, very indulgent purchase for me). No longer available – sorry. I used 1.5m.
Also see: Funk Bunny | The Compulsive Seamstress

Note: for this post I received the pattern bundle from The Monthly Stitch to blog about the bundle. All opinions my own.

This post first appeared on www.sewbusylizzy.com

Style Arc Kylie Top

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I was curious when I first read about hacci knits, so when I happened across some in the online Mood Fabrics Designer Fabrics store I decided to take the plunge and see what the fuss was about.

If you haven’t heard of this type of knit, the following is how they are described on the Mood site:-

“For those who are not familiar with hacci knits, they are a newer type of small denier knit that utilises a weft knitting technique which results in little to no torquing (a force that tends to cause rotation in the yarns). Hacci-baby knits are characteristically lightweight and sheer. With a phenomenal 4-way stretch, use this ribbed jersey fabric for stylish, sheer cardigan sleeves, fabulous tees, draped dresses and more! This material may require a lining depending on the application.”

When I received this knit, I realised that Mood had not exaggerated it – it is indeed sheer. After much thought, I decided that I would not be comfortable wearing it as a single layer so set to finding a pattern with a layered feature. There are several options in the various in-store catalogues, however I really liked the hi-low and angled back feature of the Style Arc Kylie Top overlay.

Hacci knit from Mood Fabrics NY. Pattern: Style Arc Kylie knit top.

Hacci knit from Mood Fabrics NY. Pattern: Style Arc Kylie knit top.

I was conscious of how delicate the fabric was – so I decided to use a lightweight fusible knit tape on all of the seams. I used my Bernina’s stretch stitch and followed it up with a narrow serged seam on my Brother serger. It might sound like overkill but as the seams are somewhat visible due to the sheerness of the fabric, I wanted them to be as strong and even as possible. I also used lightweight fusible knit tape on the neckline to make sure it kept its shape. The neckband is cleverly sandwiched between the layers and the sleeves are just a single layer of fabric.

Hacci knit from Mood Fabrics NY. Pattern: Style Arc Kylie knit top.

Hacci knit from Mood Fabrics NY. Pattern: Style Arc Kylie knit top.

The Kylie top features turned-under hems on the sleeves, overlay and body. I decided that I would use a narrow roll hem (using my serger) on the edges to achieve a delicate fluted effect. I also crossed over the overlay at the back – rather than joining them with a seam and then hemming the pieces. I felt the double or triple weight of fabric would be too heavy for the lightweight nature of the knit.

Hacci knit from Mood Fabrics NY. Pattern: Style Arc Kylie knit top.

The perils of beachside living – onshore breezes can play havoc with draped garment features!

I’ve sewn rolled hems on lightweight jerseys before and been surprised and pleased at how well they have held up over time.

This fabric is a really butter soft knit, composed of 97% rayon and 3% spandex. It is very stretchy but not difficult to work with. However I would advise you to be gentle to avoid your edges stretching too much during the construction process.

I ordered 1.5m in Ivory and while the Kylie Top requires 2m, I just squeezed this out of the 1.5m making a size 6.

Pattern

I purchased this as a PDF from the Style Arc Etsy store. I’ve taken to taping my patterns together by using a large sliding glass door at the back of our home – the light behind the glass means that it is relatively easy to line the edges of the sheets together without the need for trimming (except when I need a pattern detail that gets hidden in the overlap – then I trim).

It’s no secret the Style Arc patterns are brief – and they are for this however if you have made a t-shirt before this is not a difficult make. The main difference is the neckband is sandwiched between the two layers of the top.

The under top is quite fitted but it’s nicely balanced by the looser upper layer.

I think you may risk quite a bulky neckline (four layers of fabric) and shoulders (two lots of shoulder seams) in a heavy knit but it’s perfect for those lighter knits.

Fabric: Ivory Hacci Knit from Mood Fabrics NY, 1.5 yards
Pattern: Kylie Knit Top – Style Arc

Note: for this post I received a fabric allowance from Mood to make something of my choice. I blog it over at the Mood Sewing Network blog, then on my blog. All opinions my own.