Pattern Parcel #3: April Rhodes Staple Dress

Posted on May 30, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

Pattern Parcel is back! It kicks off today. Until 13 June you will be showered by bloggers across the world sewing up endless variations of five (actually six!) different patterns (see the end of this post the tour schedule!) tempting you to buy Pattern Parcel #3 – a package worth $68+.

So what’s in Pattern Parcel 3?

Pattern Parcel #3 includes:

Poppy Tunic by Make it Perfect
Water Bottle Tote by Radiant Home Studio
Jorna Tank Dress by Jenna Brand
Staple Dress by April Rhodes
Bombshell Swimsuit by Closet Case Files

AND a Bonus Pattern!

Choose a price of $28 or greater for Parcel #3 and you will automatically also be sent the Bonus Pattern! “The Bonus Pattern for this Parcel is Prefontaine Shorts for Women by Made with Moxie. This shorts pattern has a retro trim, loads of pockets, two inseams and are so comfortable you won’t want to take them off. Includes sizes 0 – 24. Exclusive launch on Pattern Parcel. Be the first to own this pattern!”

I love Pattern Parcel. There is the feel-good factor of your purchases contributing to charity. From a selfish sewing point of view, you get five patterns and perhaps some you’d never considered sewing before. I actually love that part the most – sometimes you decide to make something unexpected and it turns out great! I’ve worn my Summer Concert tees from Pattern Parcel #1 a lot – my lace back one in particular!

When I saw what contents of the Parcel, I printed and assembled the Shorts pattern, I also printed the Bombshell and Jorna. Then just days from Pattern Parcel 3 deadline… I desperately wanted a simple autumn dress to wear with boots… and the only pattern I had never considered making suddenly rocketed to the top of my must-sew list – the April Rhodes Staple Dress. Thank you Pattern Parcel!

I’ve sewn this up in a lovely soft rayon twill. I have a ‘thing’ for paisley and tartan together. I also love navy for autumn wear – so much softer than black.

We took these photos in a desperate rush – as I’m actually standing in misting rain! I was in such a rush to take the shots that I forgot to put my cream lace scarf on with this which really makes it look cute. I got loads of compliments wearing this today… which always surprises me when I’m wearing such a simple make.

April Rhodes Staple Dress from Pattern Parcel #3

This is a delightfully simple dress to sew. It probably took me less than four hours to assemble the pattern, cut the fabric and assemble most of the dress. It has a just five pieces. Front, back, neck facing and two armhole facings.

What had me bamboozled, and took four tries, was the waist shirring!

Shirring
I’d heard shirring was the easiest thing in the world to so. So I did my internet research, watched YouTube, wound the bobbin three times (loose, with slight tension, looser again), tried different stitch lengths – you name it. Every time the shirring was too tight and it was a DISASTER. So I heaved the Heavy Duty Singer out of its box, threaded it up and… perfect… first time. Personally I suspect it’s the size of the hole in the Bernina bobbin case that the elastic has to pull through that is the issue or I need to release the bobbin tension screw (which freaks me put – stupid I know)… then again others find they can’t shirr with a top loading bobbin… it’s a mystery.

I would argue if you have had issues with shirring, it really might not be anything you are doing or not, simply that your machine is just not into elasticised waists.

I’m really glad I found a shirring solution as I love the regular gathers it provides to the waistline – even though I might always wear a belt with it, I much prefer the look of even small gathers, the dress falls much more nicely with them. It is also an extremely comfortable waistline! Not to mention it transforms a rather sack-like dress…

April Rhodes Staple Dress dress – pictured flat, no shirring (and yes, no hemming)

April Rhodes Staple Dress dress – flat with a shirred waist

I think I will return to my old Jiffy dress – from the Pattern Pyramid and add shirring to it. I’ve worn it a lot but the bunching at the waist bothers me a little. Shirring is the perfect cure.

The Facings
The neckline and armholes are finished with facings – which are in essence just bias strips which are slightly longer on one side and they fit perfectly. This is such an easy dress to finish. If you are a beginner stitcher or even an experienced one, the very comprehensive instructions and finish of this dress is very satisfying.

The Pockets
I love the pockets on this dress. Yes, they are just pockets but I love that the instructions have you stitch them in such a way that they are attached to the dress front seam allowances – hence they always face forward.
The only thing I found odd was that the instructions do not have you understitch the pocket edges at the dress seamline – which I think makes for a neat finish and keeps the pockets tucked neatly into the dress – no rolling out.

April Rhodes Staple Dress, front view – OH LOOK! POCKETS. And yes, I have a yacht mast springing from my head.

Overall Verdict
I love the kimono sleeves, the loose fit and ease of this dress. I know I’ve been blessed with a lean build but I don’t feel the need to showcase my shape or legs with everything I wear. Some days I just want to slouch about and relax.

I can see this being a great dress in many types of medium to lightweight fabrics – and I certainly think there will be many more in my wardrobe – I’d love one in silk or silk cotton for spring/summer. The patterns states 2m of fabric for 150cm wide fabric. I got my dress out of a lot less but then I do cut the smallest size so I can fit more across the width of the fabric I guess.

About Pattern Parcel: “Here at Perfect Pattern Parcel, we believe in supporting independent pattern designers. It’s our opinion that indie patterns are just, well, better than big box patterns, and we’re pretty sure our customers think so too. So, we allow customers to show their support in naming their own price for each Parcel. We also encourage customers to allocate part of their Parcel price to the charity Donorschoose.org in order to help classrooms in need. Pattern Parcel donates all profits after expenses from Parcel sales to the charity as well. Together we’ve raised almost $4,500 towards eliminating educational inequality.”

Parcel #3 Inspiration Tour Schedule:

Friday, May 30
Sew Busy Lizzy ||
Pienkel ||
SeamstressErin

Saturday, May 31
Design By Lindsay ||
the Brodrick design studio ||
Cookin’ and Craftin’

Sunday, June 1
Diary of a Chainstitcher ||
a happy stitch ||
Disaster in a Dress ||
sew Amy sew

Monday, June 2
Idle Fancy ||
Casa Crafty ||
Kadiddlehopper ||
Dandelion Drift

Tuesday, June 3
Our Family Four ||
Casa Crafty ||
Cookin’ and Craftin’ ||
a happy stitch

Wednesday, June 4
Lexi Made ||
The Quirky Peach ||
Stitched ||
a happy stitch ||
Casa Crafty ||

Thursday, June 5
verypurpleperson ||
Casa Crafty ||
sew a straight line ||
Sewbon

Friday, June 6
Shawnta Sews ||
Mama says sew ||
a happy stitch ||
Cookin’ and Craftin’

Saturday, June 7
Casa Crafty ||
sewninestitches ||
‘So, Zo… What do you know?’

Sunday, June 8
oonaballoona ||
A Stitching Odyssey ||
Sew Charleston

Monday, June 9
Sew Sweetness ||
True Bias ||
Ozzy Blackbeard

Tuesday, June 10
Welcome to the Mouse House ||
Sew Caroline ||
Adventures in Dressmaking

Wednesday, June 11
Peneloping ||
YoSaMi ||
sewVery

Thursday, June 12
la inglesita ||
La Pantigana ||
Sanae Ishida

Friday, June 13
Seamster Sewing Patterns ||
Paunnet

This is me giggling as the marine mechanic stands patiently watching for us to stop taking pictures. And when you see my hand bunched over like that… it means I’m stressed… I need a sleep… later peoples… oh and buy Pattern Parcel #3, it’s a ripper.

April Rhodes Staple Dress

Disclosure: there is a gift for the blogger with the most blog referrals and for participating. Honestly I’m not motivated by that at all, really I’m not. I get more than enough from all over the world not to feel the need for giveaways or competitions – in fact I’d probably donate it back to Pattern Parcel or buy something to giveaway to my readers. I simply love Pattern Parcel because I think it’s awesome initiative. I’ve been involved in several fund-raising events for my own kids’ school this month, charity is something that’s important to me… and I just LOVE to sew. I just wanted you to know. Tis all 🙂

Drape Drape takes flight with a Batwing Dress!

Posted on May 23, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 - Batwing dress. Sewn by Sew Busy Lizzy from rayon knit from The Fabric Store, Sydney

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – Batwing dress, back view. I do love the peek-a-boo shoulders.

I’m on the fence about this one… and I think it’s perhaps I’m not so happy with pictures or the fabric feels a little too slinky for this particular style. I do love the style and the colour. So it’s a 50/50 debate at the moment.

The fabric is a lovely rayon knit from The Fabric Store during the Sydney meet-up in March. I think a slightly heavier knit, less slinky & more matte, would work better. While the drape on this is gorgeous for the top, it’s not ideal for the skirt. The weight of the folded skirt pulls downwards and I need to hitch it up in the most unladylike fashion – you know… with a wiggle and a giggle (I’ve not always been famed for my decorum so I’m OK with that). The fabric slithers over my hips, I think something more matte would cling more to my hips (this must be the first time ever I’m looking for hip-clinging properties in a fabric LOL) and the dress would tend less to pull downwards.

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 - Batwing dress

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – couldn’t crack a smile for the camera 😦

Finishing

I found it impossible to match this shade of bruised blue and any overlocking thread looked dreadful – so I did all overlocking stitches on my sewing machine. I know you can’t see the overlocking stitches but it bothers me… I can handle hot ‘n’ bothered but not sew bothered.

The Neckline…

Once again with a Drape Drape make I found the finishing instructions on the neckline near impossible to achieve. Perhaps my knit was too soft, however the directions for finishing the neckline made it impossible to achieve a neat finish.

I found this impossible to achieve neatly with a rayon knit.

I found this Drape Drape suggested finish impossible to achieve neatly with a rayon knit.

I attached a very narrow band as per a Sewaholic Renfrew and I think this finish is much nicer.

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – the neckline finish

Sleeves

The book has you overlock the edges of the sleeve openings and then turn them over once and machine them down. As the sleeves fall open you do see the inside finish of the sleeve. I felt it would look terribly messy so I machine overlocked the edges in a matching thread and then turned them under twice. I pinned them, hand basted them and then machined them. Yes sounds fussy but the finish was much neater.

The Skirt

The wonderful effect of the skirt is achieved by large downwards folds at the sides – I love it and could have the side benefit of concealing significant VPL sins (although I made wise underwear choices here – enough said…)

I made the S/M size of this dress (it only comes in two sizes and this is the smallest size). I took the skirt side seams in considerably – sewing seams of about 30mm instead of 15mm. If I had left the seams as is, the dress hangs like a massive sack from my shoulders and is most unflattering. The shoulder seams are quite narrow to support 2m of fabric and I think the skirt needs to cling for the overall design to work.

Preparation

I used tailor tacks to mark all the folds etc on this fabric – no chalk or pen would mark it well. I hand basted all the skirt folds and cuff pleats into place. Pins slide straight out of this rayon knit. Despite all that basting – this is a relatively quick dress to put together. It’s got slightly whacky pattern pieces but it’s not too much of a brain bender.

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – Batwing dress. Still undecided about this make… it’s not for the ‘junk trunk’ shy.

On a positive note, it’s quite demure compared to some of my other Drape Drape dresses… this is about as risqué as it gets…

No. 7 from Drape Drape 2 – Batwing dress. This is as about as revealing as this dress gets – apart from the clingy factor of course!

Most of the versions I have seen omit the open sleeves – however I love them. It could be a gigantic sack on me and I love that my shoulders and arms can be seen now and then. I do find that the dress wants to slide forward and I think it could benefit from bra-keepers to help the dress stay on my shoulders. I adore how the fabric drapes in such fine folds across my back. It’s like water.

The ‘caboose shot’ however I do love how the fabric falls and folds across my back and arms.

I do love the feel of it and it’s quite wearable. I think it feels better on than it looks through a camera lens – so either my eyeballs are lying or the camera lens is being cruel. At least my legs are not hanging out everywhere like this memorable number… and while this one may have been short – I have worn it a lot…

I think I would love it in matte black knit as a work dress with boots. I work in a cultural centre so my wardrobe choices are sometimes a little less conservative.

I’m very tempted to chop off the skirt, add a lower band to the top and turn this into a highly wearable batwing top. The colour is lovely…

Perhaps I was having a general ‘blah’ day, bad hair, sea breeze to deal with, sun fast disappearing… perhaps I’m too self-critical…

These were taken on the river in my lovely home town of Port Macquarie, outside the venue where my wedding reception was held… many, many moons ago!

Pattern: No 7: batwing dress from the book Drape Drape 2.
Fabric: Rayon knit from The Fabric Store, Sydney

Also see: Cyber Daze | Small Things | Ancien Nouveau | The Somnolent Dachshund
Note – this dress does awesome things when made out of a stripe… tempting…

Giveaway: and I forgot to add a close date for my giveaway so let’s make it midnight, Sunday 25 May 2014 – I will draw it on Monday night.

If I seem to be absent lately – May 2014 has been hardcore busy. ELH was away fishing for nine days, I work fulltime, I have two young daughters. I have volunteered for 6 hours at Ironman on an aid station (until 10pm at night), helped run a school fete stall (this takes HOURS over several weeks – and then a whole weekend – the fete raised $25,000 so I’m happy to have contributed). My daughter is competing in a dance eisteddfod so I’ve been taking her to rehearsals, out of town for a solo performance and this weekend we are at the ‘dance group weekend’ competition for the Eisteddfod out of town – where I have ‘ballet mother duties’ ie shovelling 20 children into ‘circus’ lycra outfits at 8.30am on a Sunday morning… I’m tired just thinking about my schedule this month… I’m not quite sure how I survived it…
Massive apologies that I’m not commenting on blogs at the moment. I am reading everything – I’m just rather knackered at night & typing is tough. Sorry!

The SewDollyClackett that wasn’t… and a giveaway…

Posted on May 11, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

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(but there is a dress with bare-chested sheilas instead…
and I think Dolly Clackett would approve of that!)

I really did want to sew a SewDollyClackett dress. I’d love to tell you I have a great excuse. In all honesty, I am the busiest and most exhausted I’ve been in some time… but I always sew through those dark patches…

I love Roisin. I love her style. I love her sass. She’s an awesome sheila. She knocks out dresses like nobody’s business. She can be funny, blunt, honest, thoughtful… and always beautiful.

And you know what I love most about her? She’s Roisin – without apology. She sews exactly what she likes. She’s got crazy fabulous shoes, owns enough divinely feminine dresses to clothe a small nation’s Olympic team and has her very own quirky style. She’s intelligent, quick witted and sometimes soft & vunerable. And I bet that’s why Nic loves her so and wants to spend the rest of his life with her – because she is Roisin. There’s no one else quite like her.

And that’s why anyone loves us – because we are unique souls.

I did try to make a Dolly Clackett dress. Oh lord I did try. I sewed a great dress… the stripe matching was fierce and the print choice was perfect… and then the back gaped. Ever so slightly but I hated that.

SewNotDollyClackett – this is a Burda pattern (sorry can’t remember and I’m too tired to look it up)

So I took off the bodice. Unpleated the pleated skirt. Added a Cambie bodice… added a gathered skirt… and I still haven’t hemmed it… and I don’t know if I will…. because I’m not Roisin. And I felt bad about that for ages – because the whole point of the sewalong was to sew something in her style… but the inner SewBusyLizzy beast was roaring…

I tweeted rather cheekily if I could sew something else (ie not a SewDollyClackett style) – and Roisin said yes 🙂 (another reason why I love her so). I also think myself blessed enough with fabrics and patterns from other bloggers, designers and stores that I didn’t want to win any prize. However I did want to sew a dress for Roisin. I heaved a sigh of relief and decided to salute Dolly Clackett in SewBusyLizzy style.

Fortunately there was a hoard of fabulous, clever stitchers around the world that truly got into the spirit of SewDollyClackett – and paid her tribute in amazing style. Check them out! And congratulates to Sarah of Rhinestones & Telephones who organised this global sewing salute.

If I was going to be a wedding crasher, what better with a classical print featuring semi-nude ladies, knit fabric, self-drafted/frankenpatterned dress?

I’ve made this four times now… including a ‘lounge about at home animal print one’ which I knocked up because I had to re-drafted the back pattern piece… because it is MIA in the sewing room. It’s a very hacked blend of the infamous Vogue 1250 and Maria Denmark’s day to night dress – I also chiselled out the sides and shortened the midriff – it’s a perfect fit. It takes 40 minutes to make from scissors to hemming.

Still SewNotDollyClackett (wondering about the weird pose? I’m taking my sunnies off – because I always seem to have them on…)

The print is not cute quirky ‘Dolly Clackett’, instead there are a stack of classical ladies with bared chests so I figure it’s a nuded-up classical version of a Dolly Clackett novelty print…

Gallery Fabric from Tessuti Melbourne

I first saw this fabric on the Tessuti online store. Then I saw it in person at the Sydney March meet-up… and everyone looked at me like I had three heads and no brains in any of them. When I got home I realised that whilst I may not have any brains, my little dark heart wanted those nude ladies in my life. Fortunately it was still available in the Melbourne store! I chose this pattern as there are very few seams to break up this extraordinary and very busy print!

Wedding Crasher alert – and she’s got no shoes on!

And in case you are struggling to see the ‘ladies’ – here they are…

there’s a set of knockers on my stomach…

another set on my hip…

and another on my back…

My nine-year-old daughter has deemed this dress ‘very inappropriate’ – which of course makes me love it more (I’m guessing it’s a concern when a pre-tween daughter starts tut-tutting at her mother’s wardrobe). I’ve even worn it to work 🙂 I work in a cultural centre… why not?

I love this picture - not because it's a great one of me - but that 'window' in the print looks like a peephole into my soul... or belly button LOL

I love this picture – not because it’s a great one of me – but that ‘window’ in the print looks like a peephole into my soul… or the ocean behind.. or just my belly button LOL. With a print like this there are always going to be placement issues. My major concern was to get as many naked ladies as possible onto the dress LMAO

I wore this to High Tea (I’m sitting at the front like Lady Muck) when I popped up and stayed with Busy Lizzie in Brizzy in March (who a delightful host and felt like a long-lost sister – and her husband Josh put up with a million and one questions about beef-jerky making – awesome people).

I’m just me. And Roisin is gloriously Roisin… and that’s the way it’s supposed to be.

Love you madly Roisin – and I’m sending you every best wish for a fantastic, interesting, slightly crazy and very happy future with your lovely Nic. Mwah.

And my posing super coach has some wedding photo tips for you…

She’s happy to travel if you need wedding photography advice… I will of course need to accompany her as she’s a minor (with a major personality)

although if you want to travel for your wedding photos – we have plenty of scenery on offer…

Shelly Beach, Port Macquarie – pretty even when it’s overcast

oh… and the giveaway?

I had a second blog birthday last month – and typically of me – I missed it.

So comment away – and send your wedding wishes to the perfectly one-of-a-kind Dolly Clackett (and Nick of course!)… because we wouldn’t have her any other way…

I’ll send the winner a package of something… not sure what yet… but things that make me smile (and some sewing things!) and might make you smile too – because what else is there?

And what two year celebration post would be complete without me typically barefoot, on the beach with sunnies on?

“Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” Oscar Wilde

Sinbad & Sailor Hepworth Dress – Instant Classic

Posted on May 4, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

I’m back – and this time with a new dress and a new pattern! (sorry, think the camera lens needs a clean!). I’ve been pattern testing a new dress for Hannah of Sinbad & Sailor.

Hepworth Dress, pattern from Sinbad & Sailor

This is the Hepworth Dress by Sinbad & Sailor.

“The Hepworth is a beautiful sleeveless dress pattern with a princess seam bodice joined at the waist to a flared skirt which includes handy hip pockets. The fit and flare shape gives you a flattering silhouette while evoking the organic and modernist sculptures of its namesake Barbara Hepworth“

Please visit Sinbad & Sailor to see the line drawings as my fabric choice was not so great at showing those… although it’s perfect for illustrating the feminine silhouette.

I love the simplicity of this design – never underestimate the beauty of simplicity. The Hepworth has a classic shape, easy fit, softly flared skirt, princess seamed bodice and pockets – it’s just so easy to wear. I decided to make it up in classic navy linen. I’ve been saving this little piece of linen for about 12 months. It’s ‘just’ linen – nothing too fancy – but it’s got this lovely drape, beautiful inky navy tone and particularly beautiful sheen to it. When I saw Hepworth I thought navy linen would suit its classic silhouette.

Hepworth Dress by Sinbad & Sailor Patterns

Hepworth – a graceful shape and not too fitted, it skims over my frame and I love it.

I know some people prefer lining to facings but give Hepworth facings a try. Hannah has drafted the facings so they are slightly smaller, thus rolling in the facings so understitching is not required (unless you are an understitching junkie like myself). Hepworth also has a particularly magical way to finish the facing – by encasing the shoulder seam within the facing. It’s rather mind bending – however as I had sewn the Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat (I couldn’t bear to blog it in the middle of summer – just seemed so wrong!) I’ve encounter this before in a slightly different form. If you get stuck I would recommend checking out the Minoru sewalong post about how to sew sleeve hem linings – the Hepworth finishing technique reminded me of this.

Of course the most sensible thing to do is make it up when Hannah has a sewalong and have her walk you through it step by step.

and with a belt…

One thing I ABSOLUTELY love about all of Sinbad & Sailor’s patterns is that there is a print-at-home version and a copy shop version. The copy shop version is A0 which means it is easy and economical to print. Many indie pattern companies supply their copy shop versions as 36 inch wide sheets – and I have found these near impossible to get printed easily and cheaply here in Australia. Most copy shops can print a b/w A0 for about $4.50 – while you wait.

It’s getting colder here… I can actually see this as a brilliant pinafore for winter with a collared shirt underneath… hmmmm now there’s a thought… It’s a loose enough fit on me that I think I could manage it in ponte with no zip… tempting…

Photos taken in a last-minute rush before ELH disappeared for nine days fishing – and the weather was turning nasty!

Pattern: Hepworth Dress by Sinbad & Sailor
Fabric: Navy Linen from Lincraft
Sizing: I made the UK 8 – I could do with a size 6, I need to take some out between my bust and shoulder (I’m shorter than I appear – trust me – LOL).
Also see: Rachel of House of Pinheiro & Winnie of Scruffy Badger (they have been far more exciting and used floral fabrics! Winnie also has some ‘inside’ shots – sorry I’ve been so busy I just don’t have time to take some!)

I’ve got a few more posts waiting… life has been frantic – I’m just concluding a nine-day sojourn as a single working mother while ELH is away trout fishing in the Snowy Mountains. Next up is helping out at the annual school fete and my daughter’s ballet eisteddfod which the weekend after the school fete – I think she’s in five group dances and one solo… argh… and I’m just off to volunteer on one of the Ironman aid stations on the run leg this evening… apparently the competitors need a drink & nourishment while running a marathon (this is after a 3.6km swim & 180km bike ride)

Mood Sewing Network – a Mini debut

Posted on April 11, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

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*faints* *gasps* *giggles* *runs outside in pjs to read email to husband*

That was my reaction to receiving an email from the revered fabric kingdom Mood Fabrics NYC expressing an interest in little old me, Sew Busy Lizzy in far-flung Australia joining the Mood Sewing Network.

My first outing as a Mood Sewing Network blogger

So many bloggers I have followed and admired since I started blogging are part of this network – the skill, personality and individual style of this crew is quite fabulous. In fact since I started sewing I’ve become so enamoured of Mood Fabrics it was already on my travel plans for 2014! Yes I will be in NY in October – I can’t wait!

I can’t tell you how I agonised over my first Mood make. I felt I needed to be fancy, couture… then a sewing friend said that perhaps I was asked because I had a distinctive style, perhaps Mood just wanted me to be ‘me’. Suddenly it all became easy.

It’s so easy to become swallowed up by what you might imagine other people expect of you. Defined by your own expectations. Trying to be the best version of yourself – which too often is framed by what you imagine others expect.

At the end of the day?

“Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” (quote often attributed to Oscar Wilde)

Mood has so many fabulous fabrics… the range feels endless. Fabulous fabrics destined to be ‘fashion’ makes - fabulous individual creations, the very reason why we love to sew. I really wanted my first Mood make to be ‘me’… in extraordinary fabric (of course – this is Mood Fabric after all)… something I couldn’t obtain elsewhere…

So denim it was (I have suffered from a lifelong denim affliction – I strongly believe there is no such thing as too much denim in a wardrobe, jackets, jeans, vests, skirts, shorts, capris, dresses – just waiting for a medical term for this obsession. True, I don’t ‘do’ ‘double denim’… this girl has some standards).

Not just any denim but Italian denim… printed with a bronze damask design… I fell in love with this Italian Printed Denim. I love the slight grunge style of the print. It’s decadent but not quite perfect, it’s not gold but bronze.

Mood Fabrics: Italian Printed Denim

I’ve often read about how metallic denims lose their lustre or print in the wash… me being me decided to throw caution to the wind when preparing this fabric for sewing. I threw it in the washing machine on a ‘normal’ cycle, hung it up to dry… and guess what? The world didn’t end.

And then I sewed… a Grainline Studio Moss Mini Skirt. While some might argue that a simpler pattern might have sufficed and the construction details are hidden, I love the fact this fabric gives this simple yet classic fly-front skirt design a rockstar makeover.

Mood Sewing Network: Grainline Moss Mini Skirt in Italian Printed Denim

I’ve found this pattern wants to sit low-slung on me – which delivers the look I was after and suits the grunge element of the design.

Lovely design details… front slant pockets, top stitching, fly front and more – I would even been fooled into thinking it was RTW!

OK. Yes. Rather proud of this pattern matching. #sorrynotsorry

OK. Yes. Rather proud of this pattern matching – yes there is a vertical seam running down my centre back. #sorrynotsorry for showing off.

Just a few tips when sewing with this fabric… a part of the selvedge is not printed – so I decided to trace around the pattern pieces with tailor’s chalk on the right side to avoid running pieces onto the non-printed section (you can just see later on what happened when I didn’t do this with the inside waistband). I’m that girl who is guilty of squeezing every inch out of her fabric. So I traced each piece carefully. While it takes a little longer it’s easier to pattern match and you will make the most of your yardage.

Going crazy with chalk.

This fabric did not bother my Bernina sewing machine at all and I used a denim needle. Likewise my Brother overlocker had no issue with the fabric. While the drape is stiff, the fabric itself is not overwhelmingly heavy.

I did quite a bit of top stitching which finishes the skirt beautifully by holding down the seam allowances and adding a professional finish. Fabric that is this fabulous deserves a good finish. I’ve rather proud of its innards too – that’s what is so nice about being a sewing blogger – I can’t wear my makes inside out but I can show you guys!

The insides – because I can’t wear it inside out…

I couldn’t find a bronze button that perfectly matched (I’m a little bit OCD about some details) so I finished the waistband with a heavy black trouser hook & bar from my stash. I also chose to use a metal jeans zip from my stash as it adds to the ready-to-wear finish of the garment. If sewing a fly front freaks you out completely – I strongly recommended a few things:-

Use Jen of Grainline Studio’s excellent fly front tutorial
Get your hands on a RTW garment with a fly front and use it as a reference (and do yourself a favour and use a women’s garment as a man’s fly does up the other way)…
and if you are terrified – try making a muslin first to gain some confidence.

oh and I’m also not keen on unzipping my fly while the skirt is on – so here is the non-risqué version of the fly front

Funnily enough as I was hemming this garment a blog post from Grainline Studios popped up and guess what? It’s Moss Making Month over with Stephanie at Makes the Things and Sara at An Elemental Life – how’s that for coincidence – for once I’m running ahead of schedule. Unintentionally but I’m OK with that.

We are hitting autumn in my part of the world – it never gets truly cold in my beautiful seaside Port Macquarie, Australia. I’m often barefoot on the beach in winter and we never see a frost. Seriously. However the days are getting shorter and it was a race against sunset to take these pictures after work. I love how the fading evening light really brings out the amazing metallic print of this fabric. A little bit rockstar!

If I’m not looking my usual relaxed self – I was fretting about the fading light and my deadline… but I was also taking tips from the Posing Super Coach…

I know – heaven help me when she hits her teenage years. She’s going to be a whole lot of hilarious trouble.

Thank you Mood Fabrics… I’ve got a mini skirt my non-sewing friends are lusting after!

Still figuring out how to wear these boots… but I’m getting used to them

The good news… as I originally planned to make jeans… I think I’ve got enough for a fitted dress or a high waisted skirt… watch this space…

Fabric: Mood Fabrics: Italian Printed Denim
Pattern: Grainline Studio Moss Mini Skirt, size 4 (as suggested to me via Instagram by Unique Schmuck – thanks Oanh!)

Also See: Vogue 8330 skinny jeans by Kadiddlehopper I was so tempted to make jeans initially – but it would have been hard to top these amazing jeans…

Now there is a ton of awesome makes going on all the time over at the Mood Sewing Network – so get yourself over there now and put them in your blog reader…

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…

Category Archives: Sewing Projects