HONEY, I SHRANK THE SHIRTDRESS…

Posted on March 10, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

Am I suffering from maker’ s bias (unintentional pun!) or is this totally twee AND squee at the same time? This is the Oliver + S Jump Rope Dress.

Oliver + S Jump Rope Dress

I made this for Aislinn, my one & only niece (I have four nephews). The fact it’s so cute will hopefully make up for the fact her baptism was last weekend. Oops.

This is a downloadable pattern – I believe it is no longer in print. That’s a shame as it’s a lovely age-appropriate (ie not old-fashioned daggy) dress for little girls. This is a size 12 months-18 months. Tiny! The pattern is sized 6-12 months to 3 years and you can also download it as age 4-8. My daughters both want shirtdresses now, fortunately I won a magazine from The Perfect Nose and I have a shirtdress in the queue from that.

Unfortunately I could not find a shop that would print the large format sheet on the weekend (it provides a tiled pattern as well as a large format pattern sheet) so I tiled the pages myself. The logic of the PDF layout of Oliver + S is outstanding and putting them together was a breeze.

This itty bitty little shirtmaker dress has a Peter Pan style collar and a button placket. I had never constructed a placket before but the instructions are very clear and it was easy. Fiddly but easy.

The one thing that threw me was the 1/2 inch seam allowance – instead of 5/8 seam allowance. I chanted it to myself every time I went to the machine LOL.

I stuck to the pattern with just a few little SewBusy touches…

Oliver + S Jump Rope Dress sleeve tab

I used press studs rather than buttons on the placket. They seemed more practical and less swallowable than buttons.
I attached little white flower buttons on the contrast sleeve tabs and pocket flaps (with some little bits of green contrast stitching)
Added a little lace trim to the hem, cos a gal can’t be over-trimmed.

Oliver + S Jump Rope Dress pocket

And the finishing touch? My own little label – courtesy of ELH, the Ever Lovin’ Husband. It seemed appropriate to use the first one on his god-daughter/niece’s dress.

SewBusyLizzy Label – the slip stitching is a bit messy – I was excited at this point!

It’s actually our 13th wedding anniversary tomorrow.

One of my friends once said I should blog my wedding dress. I didn’t make it but she said it’s so lovely I should share it with you. It’s fairly simple in style. What do you think? It still fits 🙂

Pattern Review RTW Competition
The RTW Pattern Review competition voting is about to close. I’m pretty confident that I’m not going to win 😦 in fact I think one of my blog followers will! when I saw her dress I thought ‘yup that’s the winner!‘. That’s cool. I realised when I decided to make the dress that it wasn’t the ‘showstopper’ ‘prize winner’ type, it’s too ‘everyday’ however I wanted to create an everyday dress that I would adore wearing and that’s exactly what I did. I continue to wear my gingham 15 pound Aussie shirtdress a lot and it always receives high compliments, in fact my hairdresser complimented me. I mentioned I had made it and she laughed “I was just thinking… I should get some fabric I think I could make that“. It really is the best knock-off yet – people want to knock-off my knock-off! LOL

And back @ SewBusy Headquarters…
I’m thread-tracing my jacket pattern. Yes, it’s time-consuming and intense… but it’s relaxing & fun… yes, I’m not kidding! I don’t joke about sewing. This is serious stuff.

Burda 03/2013 jacket. A pretty wool blend.

Jump Rope Dress details
Pattern from here.
Fabric: Japanese lawn from Spotlight (Australia).

Focus Lizzy… Focus!

Posted on March 5, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

I tend to talk and write a lot. What can I say I talk, I type and words just come out!

So I’m attempting to rattle on less tonight, it’s getting late and I need to sleep 🙂 otherwise I end up SewCrankyLizzy.

PATTERN REVIEW RTW

Voting is now open on the Pattern Review website for the RTW competition. I’m quite sure that there are a few entries there that are going to smash my humble little gingham shirtdress but I’ve decided that if by some miracle I do win the $200 Mood voucher, I’m going to buy something (in addition to my dream Anise fabric) to giveaway on my blog. I figure you all want something from Mood Fabrics just as much as me – so part of being happy is about sharing it around 🙂 You are all so generous and kind to me, I would like to give a little back in the form of Mood fabulousness if possible. I guess that would be interpreted as an enticement but it’s not intended that way. A lot of what I have achieved has been inspired by your kind words and encouragement, you are all as much a part of my sewing as me. Maybe I should have wait til after the competition. Ah, I prefer to be upfront and just say things like they are. It’s just something I want to do & it’s not an afterthought Read more about this project here.

My Shabby Apple RTW inspired dress – I love it with my dark red belt, patent red slingbacks. I have worn this A LOT. Making it a sewing win regardless of Pattern Review competition outcome.

VINTAGE DRESS

I’ve also made up a vintage pattern – see if you can pick which one…. Thank you SuzyBeeSews! The bodice of this is very much like the Peony but it fits without alteration. I made this from an old doona cover from a charity shop – I as nervous about the fit but it fitted perfectly. The skirt is a little too gathered for the dress, I just used all the leftover fabric once I cut out the fabric. I didn’t have enough doona cover for the flared skirt in the original. I love this bodice. I want to make the dress again – sleeveless version.

Vintage McCalls. That’s one of my beloved pieces of furniture, a early 1900s settee, from my childhood bedroom.

DISTRACTED

I’ve been distracted by Sewalongs. I can’t help myself. I have almost finished my New Look 6000 for Scruffy Badger’s Polka Dot NL 6000 sewalong. It’s more splodge-a-dot but I like it. I love this pattern. I confess I had been put off it because the envelope was so thick LOL. The neckline on this is not playing nice, it looks smashing but the facing does not want to stay put – damn you drapey fabric… although the pleats look lovely… I want to make it in a ponti fabric for work. Love this pattern.

New Look 6000

Despite having the perfect pattern for the Sew for Victory Sewalong…

Sew for Victory. An original 1044 pattern.

YEAR OF THE JACKET RESUMES

I’ve decided that my London trip is too close and I would like to attempt to make a jacket to take. Hmmmm, I know ambitious….

Burda 03/2013 jacket. A pretty wool blend.

I also got this raspberry stretch lace and would love this little cardigan from the latest Burda magazine. Don’t you think it would look fabulous with a black Charlotte skirt and a skinny belt…

Burda 03/2013 lacy cardigan

Focus Lizzie. Focus!

Oh and my Tessuti competition fabric arrived…

Tessuti package – how awesome is that packaging!!

My Shirtdress… and the 15 Pound Aussie Project…

Posted on February 26, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

I’m no supermodel but I can sew!

Vogue 8028 mash-up – and the Shabby Apple inspiration dress

The hemline doesn’t look even but it is – it was just BLOWING A GALE! More on that later…

I fell madly in love with this dress when I spotted it on LLadybird’s blog for a Shabby Apple promo months ago. Unfortunately when Shabby Apple do promotions via blogs they are only ever for USA residents so I needed to make this myself.Then along came the RTW Challenge on Pattern Review and I could think of no better excuse to make it.

I had grand visions of my blog photo for this dress. Alas, the Blogs Gods were not smiling upon me. In my little corner of the world it has been raining forever (not really but it feels like it!) and we are recovering from one of our biggest floods in decades. I’ve had to ‘make do’.

I’m SoSadLizzy as I really really really wanted to win this competition. First prize $200 Mood Fabrics voucher, second prize $100 Mood Fabrics voucher. My lust is insatiable – before this was announced I had been drooling over my dream Anise fabric. Alas our river is in full flood, our jetties surrounded by flood debris, our glorious beaches are trashed and the rain continues to fall. Boo. Sob. Howl. Life can be so unjust!! If that’s the worst I’ll ever suffer in a flood I can live with that.

Many of the entries so far are fancy – and I respect that and no doubt they will smash me in the voting stakes, lace and couture stuff is sexy. That’s OK, I love this dress, I will wear it alot and I’ve been dying to make it for months. I’d rather make a dress that I love and wear often than a statement piece that I wear once. Oh dear I’ve become so practical…

I think my dress is similiar in spirit but (ahem) better than Shabby Apple’s. When I really really looked at the Overboard dress, I really didn’t like the collar – it had no band, it wasn’t notched. The button placket makes my eyeballs cranky as the pattern matching is poor. I also didn’t like how the skirt pleats created a visual mess at the waistline. My alterations addressed this, don’t we always gloat that made-by-me is better, so why slavishly copy an original? Improve it!

I used the top of Vogue 8028 (this is out of print, I got it on ebay for about $5). This pattern is a full shirt dress, buttons to the hem – Overboard is not, it’s a shirtmaker dress – buttons just to the waist with a zip under the arm. This Vogue pattern also does not include a pleated skirt. In the end I just used the top pattern pieces.

I changed the construction order to suit my alterations. I made up the front and back as instructed and attached them at the shoulders. I inserted the sleeves flat. I did not sew up the sides at this point. First I created pleated skirt panels. Pleating gingham is super easy – you just use the checks as a guideline. I pleated so the navy gingham check forms a visual waistband – the pleats point inwards. I then attached skirt panels to the tops. Without the sash my dress looks like this at the waistline…

Vogue 8028 mash-up – waistline

I then inserted an invisible zipper under one arm (which broke the first time I tried on the dress! Growl!). I sewed up the sides and hemmed the dress. Yes, it really was that easy!

I only made the top button a ‘real’ buttonhole. Shirtmaker dresses are great if buttonholes and buttons scare you. I sewed the buttonholes through all layers of the fabric – with the exception of the top buttonhole so I can leave it open & casual. The buttonholes secure the front, there is less chance of the buttons pulling and gaping. I simply sew the buttons over the top of the buttonhole, noone can tell and the dress front sits nice and flat. You escape the dress via an invisible zip under your arm!

I made the sash from scrap red lawn I had. Buttons were $2.99 at Lincraft.

I think my check matching was reasonable, not perfect but better than Shabby Apple by a long shot.

: Vogue 8028 mash-up – sleeve details

: Vogue 8028 mash-up – shirt front

: Vogue 8028 mash-up – collar back view

So in a few days I will probably be back, begging, crying, pleading for your vote on Pattern Review… I’m totally cool if you are not a fan or you prefer the other entries (I may cry for weeks but sewing therapy will get me through – and there are a stack of other things on Shabby Apple I want to make up). You can only vote if you are a Pattern Review Member for at least the last 3 months. I like Pattern Review and use it a lot, it is a good solid resource to check any potential pattern purchases against – it’s the first place I check out. (Note to self: get over there in the next two days and load up your review, images and entry – stop talking about it and start typing!)

What makes me most proud is that I modified pattern significantly – I never imagined I could achieve this sort of customised result when I started blogging last April.

THE 15 POUND AUSSIE

In January I was contacted by Will of Abakhan Fabric via Twitter, he asked if I would like to be part of a budget bloggers’ project. Invited bloggers can select goods to the value of 15 pounds from their website once a month and make anything they choose. I pointed out that I lived in Australia but Will said that was OK. I have quite a lot of UK readers/followers so it made sense to me – and what a fun challenge!

This is great project for me, I’m a budget stitcher. The majority of my makes come from the bargain table, yes I’m picky and they are often beautiful voiles and lawn, but I freak out at paying a fortune for anything. Must be my ancestral Scottish blood (or the Welsh or English bits of me – or it could just be the cheeky cheapskate Aussie) can be blamed (or credited) for this!

Ten Pound Poms is Aussie slang to describe the British who migrated to Australia after the Second World War under an assisted passage scheme run by the Australian Government. Adults could migrate for 10 pounds sterling and children for free. So I’ve called myself the 15 Pound Aussie. Any of these Abakhan Fabric projects I’m going to tag as 15 Pound Aussie on my blog. Keep an eye out for them and if you are in the UK especially, don’t underestimate their range, it took me DAYS to choose! When I’ve over in the UK in 1 month and 17 days (not counting, really I’m not) I shall be buying up their bias binding range!

I made this dress from fabric sent to me by Abakan Fabrics in the UK.

This is my first project from this blogging challenge. An enormously wearable dress which used less than 2 metres of fabric at the princely sum of £3.35 pounds a metre, so £7.70 for the fabric plus $3 Aussie for the buttons. The RTW dress is currently on sale for $US 86. Bargain I say.

15 Pound Aussie win. Thanks Abakhan Fabrics!

Images credits: Shabby Apple and Sewbusylizzy.

The Little Red Dress (McCalls 6433) & the Pick My Pattern idea…

Posted on February 22, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

I enjoyed this project so much I’m feeling inspired to run a little sewalong/blog swopfest called “Pick My Pattern.”

What you talkin’ about Lizzy?

Well, here’s the story, Anne from Pretty Grievances sent me this pattern a little while ago. She thought it would look nice on me (clearly getting me into animal print wasn’t enough to satisfy her!). Apart from being the sweetest thing to do, it was lovely to have someone throw a dress into the virtual sewing change room to try!

from my personal stylist – the woman who got me into animal print!

Funnily enough I had looked at this pattern many times and not teetered over the brink with my online cart to purchase it. I suspect slightly more frivolous choices might have won the day… what me buy pretty dress patterns? Never! OK, only every other month…

This whole experience reminds me of going shopping with my friends, or rather when I used to go shopping with my friends! We would all troop into a shop, try on clothes – often trying on clothes that others suggested for us. And sometimes that’s when you find the best clothes of all – the things that you don’t think are you… but your friends know they are…

PICK MY PATTERN CONCEPT

I think maybe a bit later in the year (there are soooo many sewalongs on at present my head is spinning!) and after my trip to London (did I mention I’m going to London soon LOL), it might be a fun activity. People nominate, I conduct a random draw aka Kris Kringle style and people pick a pattern for another person. One pattern is relatively cheap to mail internationally… compared to fabric anyway!

MY DRESS

I have not got around to hemming this Pick my Pattern creation yet but here are some pictures to share.

My Little Red Dress: front view

Next time around I think I will lift the neckline a little, as when I put this on I keep doing this…

My Little Red Dress – gape!

I think I need a cut the back a size smaller. It feels a little roomy across my back but fits reasonably well across the bust, waist and hips. I made this in a crepe-type fabric, it’s fairly bulky and I think this has caused issues under the arms, the seam is quite thick and heavy. The sleeves are double thickness – and this fabric is reasonably heavy – making for three fabric thicknesses in the armhole seam. That’s a whole lotta fabric to contend with.

My Little Red Dress: back view

I love love love the skirt pleats – how cute are they! I think next time I might make the sleeveless version in black. I think this is the most work-friendly pattern I’ve made up and I think black would be very practical. I made the very stupid mistake of inserting a slightly smaller zip than suggested (hey it was in the stash – I can hear you tsk tsking Winnie). It’s a bit of a wiggle to get off. Worse I made the mistake of trying it on one morning just after I got after the shower and it was VERY humid. The lining stuck to my skin (I had not catchstitched it down at the waistline, I know I know, more gross stupidity) and the lining tore along the zip as I pulled it off. Stupid weather!

Despite the fititng mishaps (hey not everything is going to be a winner first time! Plus the fabric was on sale so no tears there) I think this pattern is a great shape. I love the shape and the style. I have this tiny sneaking suspicion that the swayback poses of the model have something to do with the neckline of the dress being so low and how the shoulder pleats cause the sides of the neckline to gape a little. It could just be a SewBusyLizzy body flaw… I think having the back slightly more narrow and the neckline a tiny bit higher would alleviate this gaping problem. Then again I checked out the McCalls website and the models have similar fitting issues. I think the depth of the neckline needs to be raised. I don’t think this is a modesty thing. I honestly think the depth & shoulder pleats create an issue together.

I did really like the instructions with this pattern. They are very clear and better still they have quite a good outline of how to tissue fit the pattern.

So thanks Anne for picking my pattern. I think I will be making this one again – always a good sign that it’s a winner!

SEWBUSYLIZZY NEWS UPDATE

I feel like I haven’t had any time to myself lately – which is kinda true. I’ve managed to squeeze in the odd 15 minutes here and there (when you are fitting it in around dinner, bathtime, dressing for work and more it is very frustrating and exhausting) and made a muslin of a vintage dress pattern… out of a doona/duvet cover… and it’s actually not that bad! More on that soon…

Oh and I also made a gorgeous shirtdress… well I like it!

WHATCHA THINK?

And what to you think of the Pick My Pattern concept? Hot or Not? Would you be interested in participating?

Oh La La – hello Charlotte Skirt By Hand London

Posted on February 12, 2013 by sewbusylizzy

Simple is sometimes more sexy than complicated. Hello gorgeous pencil skirt simplicity in the form of Charlotte, from By Hand London.

Charlotte By Hand London Pattern Envelope

I think stitchers can be guilty of overwhelming ourselves with delicious pleats, tucks, darts, bias cut stripes and more – me included! Coco Chanel is quoted as having once said “before you leave the house take one thing off.” Without the time to trawl the internet for the exact quote, I like the essence of the thought. I’m not saying rip off your blouse by any means, although you might have some followers that works for (who knows!). There is a lot of value in taking a moment to simplify a little, whether it’s accessories, clothing details – or even life.

I have been TRYING to exist on a pattern & fabric diet due to the upcoming London trip in April/May (two months away today!). This has been semi-successful (there have been some major slip-ups but I’m vastly improved on 2012). I had a moment of weakness in January and when I saw Oonaballoona’s fabulous Elisalex, I weakened. Oh, it just looked like FUN! I went to Sew Squirrel to order ASAP. It was OUTTA STOCK. Ah, saved by self-indulgence of other stitchers! Bless you Aussie stitchers. Then I got a DM on Twitter from the By Hand London girls asking if I would like to try their patterns. Yes Ma’am. So here she is – Charlotte.

Charlotte By Hand London package

OMG this is the CUTEST packaging I’ve seen. It comes in an envelope – with this gorgeous little peek-a-boo print on the back of the envelope when you pull the sleeve out. The booklet is cute as a button…

AND you get this label.

By Hand London label

OK enough squeeing and let’s get back to the very serious business of sewing – cos it’s v.serious as we all know. No fun at all… ever… (OK I’ll let you squee just once more…. done yet?).

Do I like it? Yes. Do I love it? Yes.

Oh isn’t there like a million of pencil skirts out there Lizzy?

Well, yes there is. Some of them have tucks, pleats and all manner of wonderous frippery. I have several patterns in my stash and have not got around the making them up, they looked like a lot of work for a pencil skirt silhouette. I saw this and felt inspired.

I just love the simplicity. So simple yet it manages to pack a visual punch. I like the longer pegged length, the eight long shaping darts and I love love love the high high waist. Some have cut it shorter but the length appeals to me. I feel mighty fine. And in some cases sexy as hell. Yes it’s possible to feel this way without hanging my legs out for public viewing.

I’ll admit when Charlotte first popped onto the bloggin’ scene I was like ‘meh it’s a pencil skirt’, then I saw Rachel and Lladybird rockin’ the pencil skirt and I realised that hey Lizzy! Pencil skirts are actually one of your most beloved and worn wardrobe items – maybe you should make one. Durr.

I was once a huge tomboy, it was unusual to see me out of trouser/fitted shirts or jeans(I’m still addicted to jeans, I feel a million bucks in them). Over time I guess my confidence and self-acceptance has grown. I look the way I do and I’m OK with that. Along the road to physical self-acceptance (I think my personality is set in concrete, I fight it to no avail) I learnt to not take clothes too seriously (fabric yes, clothes no), to experiment and have some fun. I discovered dresses where not just ‘special occasion’ items, skirts were kinda cute and even accessories had a place in my life!

It was interesting that my eldest daughter – who is turning 10 next Monday… how did that happen – and she is just under my chin! She’s making me older and shorter every day she is alive!… anyway I digress. She asked me why the Charlotte skirt made me look so much taller than I really was. So we had a discussion about clothing styles, visual wardrobe tricks and more. She’s actually a really snappy little dresser. She’s got a sweet fey boho style which is perfectly appropriate for her age. I have no interest in her growing up too quickly but there is a place for a bit of sage advice. I often wish someone had taught me to master my curly hair…

Charlotte the First – my muslin. Not too shabby for a ‘chinese tablecloth’. No hemming this is an experiment and not wearable. It’s back in the sewing room being re-worked into another vision! The Sewaholic Alma doesn’t ‘go’ but it’s just what I was wearing while sewing!

This is my muslin because I was a little nervous about the fit – needlessly. This fabric is a random shiny upholstery jacquard. No give whatsoever. The Ever-Lovin’ Husband (ELH) commented that while the skirt was nice… but I looked like I was wearing a Chinese tablecloth. Hmmmm! I didn’t put a walking slit in the back and I was walking like a little hobbled but shapely lady! Skirts without walking slits are akin to crippling me. I’m rather famed for my short stature which doesn’t seem to match my stride or walking pace – be warned London ladies – I travel at high speed!

Here is Charlotte The Second (with walking slit) – aka Racy Lacy (I can hear you laughing Boris)

Charlotte The Second: By Hand London

Love.

It kinda looks fancy. It’s just a bonded lace I picked up at Spotlight in a 40% off sale. I really liked the black/black version (much more conservative) but it had no stretch. This base fabric is stretch and perfect for a Charlotte experiment.

The lace was bonded slightly off kilter which made pattern matching the seams tricky. They are not perfect but they are OK. I still need to pull the waistband in a little. The fit is a little roomier than my muslin, I think due to the stretch in this fabric… something to keep in mind for next time. I think I will baste the side seams next time and nip them in as required before committing to ‘serious’ stitches.

Charlotte the Second – the junk trunk (I know it’s not a ladylike expression but it’s stuck with me ever since my Thurlow post…)

I decided to have a little fun with the hem. This stuff doesn’t fray so rather than doing a straight hem I trimmed around the lace motifs. This decision meant the skirt was either going to be long or around knee-length. I like the contrast of long and lacy – a little bit sexy and a little bit conservative.

Charlotte The Second – the hem. Please excuse the blue toenails I always forget I’ve let the kids paint my nails and suddenly remember on Monday morning as I walk out of the door to work…

I didn’t line it. I’m saving that ‘fancy stuff’ for my emerald-green wool crepe. Oh I can’t wait to sew it up! An op/charity shop purchase at $2 for 1.5m of New Zealand Merino Wool Crepe. To Grandma wherever you are – I love you for stashing it. Yes I’m still punching the air with glee… oh and I have the loveliest lace blouse to go with it…

Elisalex… I’m so curious to try this pattern, I’m just waiting on some fabric… I have a vision…

Note: I would love Charlotte even if I had paid for it. In fact I would be stoked I had purchased it. I’m not inclined to make something over and over but this one makes me feel that way. Easy, lovely fit, flattering. Love. Love. Love. Thank you By Hand London for asking me to have a try!

I’ve kinda been in love with the Charlotte version with the quirky hem frill in the floral. *sigh* I think we are meant to be… don’t think I’m a waist peplum girl. I’m old enough to remember it – so I’m not going back there… I’m leaving that for the youngsters…

Charlotte Floral – so cute! Image: By Hand London

Pattern: Charlotte, By Hand London. Available in Australia from Sew Squirrel (where I go to indulge – so much more fun than chocolate). Or the UK types can get it direct from By Hand London.
Top: Grace Hill from Ezibuy (years ago, rarely worn cos it’s too racy and low-cut for demure me)
Shoes: Jane Debster (on sale a few years ago cos I’m a cheapskate who resents full price)

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…

Yearly Archives: 2013