FLORA (AM) By Hand London – the muslin edition

Posted on March 9, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

BY Hand London Flora Dress - wrap bodice version

I just love this shot… such a beautiful classic Aussie beach (plus a pretty dress)

Slightly behind schedule – life has a habit of getting in the way at the moment… By Hand London’s latest pattern – Flora.

Like any sane sewing blogger – when asked by the By Hand London gals if I was interested in pattern testing… I said YES, YES, YES… (rather in the vein of ‘When Harry Met Sally’.)

This is actually my ‘muslin’ Flora – made up from a stashed cotton sateen… I wasn’t going to blog her but I know you always want MOAR. So here is the Flora prelude to my final version.

By Hand London girls were rather fabulous and organised Tessuti Fabrics to provide some completely amazing fabric (cotton sateen with a satin finish) for my second version. I will photograph it this afternoon. While it’s the same mock-wrap version… it’s completely different due to the dramatic fabric provided by Tessuti. I’ve called it Flora Nightshade. I’ve also lined the skirt. Flora Nightshade is dead posh 🙂

This pattern comes with two bodice options and two skirt options. There is a modest high-neck bodice and (for the floozies like me) there a lower cut mock-wrap bodice. – The skirt is a massive indulgence in ‘oomph’ – so full-skirted addicts out there… Flora is your gal.

Anyways… here’s my Flora (AM) – as in daytime – version. She’s rather rough as guts on the inside (I pinked the skirt seams – errrr couldn’t be bothered to change my overlocker thread that night) but still very pretty and wearable… I couldn’t decide what pictures to use so prepare for a visual onslaught. Pick your favourite!

Note to self – holding up the front of a mullet skirt in no way helps the back from not getting wet…

I often think I should crop my pictures more as this is a sewing blog… it’s supposed to be all about the clothes. I just can’t make myself do it – sorry. They are part of my identity, my makes, my lifestyle.

Mullet hems – they do look so cool when you photograph them….

back view…

Back view… I do really love how the back armholes just come in a tiny bit… (also love a good bit of reflection in wet sand)

side view – mullet hem in all its glory

Pattern notes…

The pattern testing version came with just the high-low (aka mullet hem). Great news – the released pattern has a straight hem as well! In the words of the By Hand London girls… (check out the square neck version – it’s lovely and I’m tempted to make another…)

“Fundamentally feminine and universally flattering with her cinched waist and voluminous pleated straight or dipped hem circle skirt, Flora is the definitive party dress. Choose from two entirely different bodice variations: a classic sleeveless faux-wrap style or the more demure tank bodice, with her high square neckline and simple shoulder straps.”

Back neckline
I found the back neckline gaped slightly – so rather than put in back neck darts I straightened up the centre back seam as it curved out a little at the top. I found this also helped the front sit better. I’m sure there is a million reasons why I should have done darts – but hey, this worked for me.

Wrap bodice
This version does gap a little. I did some research and found a slightly different solution which I will share on Floral Nightshade post.

Fabric Selection
The skirt is a fabric-munching monster – you will need a WIDE fabric, 150cm no less – also remember that the mullet option means you will see the underside of the fabric. I cut the skirt for this muslin on the crosswise grain.

I did find the bodice gaps a little – I found a cure for that and I’ll write about it in my Tessuti Fabric’s Nightshade Flora post… coming soon…

Thank you so much for all your lovely comments on my last post – I’ve been giving myself some rest so I have not had a chance to reply – but thank you, every single one was much appreciated xo

48 thoughts on “FLORA (AM) By Hand London – the muslin edition”

Ellen on March 9, 2014 at 10:31 am said:

A beautiful dress in a beautiful location! Living close to the ocean myself, I share your love of its natural beauty. Looking forward to your Nightshade version

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elle on March 9, 2014 at 10:35 am said:

Please don’t ever crop that gorgeous seaside out of your photos! It’s balm for my landlocked eyes. And this version is just beautiful – that fabric is gorgeous. I can’t wait to see the posh version!

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sewamysew on March 9, 2014 at 11:41 am said:

Such a pretty fabric! I think the star of this dress has to be the pleats, so flattering. Glad to hear you’ve had some rest.

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Roberta Fahrni on March 9, 2014 at 11:55 am said:

Love it! Great job!

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Laurie on March 9, 2014 at 12:34 pm said:

Looking forward to seeing your posh flora!! This one us beautiful and I love your seaside pics!

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girlguydogcat on March 9, 2014 at 2:29 pm said:

so pretty! I need to put this pattern on my summer sewing list! I love your photos – so much prettier than the boring porch and winter trees on my blog! Plus I can dream of summer looking at your scenery!

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Andrea on March 9, 2014 at 4:09 pm said:

Pretty dress and lovely fabric mix. I do like the mullet hem for interest. Great beach photos.

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The hemmed-in kittiwake on March 9, 2014 at 4:57 pm said:

Don t ever cut out the landscape out of your pictures!!! The fabric chosen for the muslin is perfect for a beach version of this pattern! Looking forward to the night version!

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Melanie on March 9, 2014 at 5:19 pm said:

This looks like the perfect dress for your beachside setting. And DO NOT CROP YOUR PHOTOS, pretty please.

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Vicki Kate on March 9, 2014 at 6:05 pm said:

Please don’t crop your photos, I love seeing your dresses in context (so to speak)! This is lovely, I’m having to make myself wait to buy this (although I may have bought the fabric…). I’ve never been one for a mullet hem but all the beautiful versions I’ve seen have thoroughly converted me. Can’t wait to see Nightshade!

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Elisabeth on March 9, 2014 at 6:09 pm said:

Gorgeous dress and pics! Maybe I should start going to the beach for photo sessions too? Somehow the north Atlantic doesn’t seem as tempting as the south Pacific…

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littlestonecottage on March 9, 2014 at 6:12 pm said:

It’s a perfect beach dress. The only thing holding me back from this pattern is potential gap on the wrap bodice so I look forward to reading your next post.
As for the backdrop. Well, you know my thoughts on the matter. Xx

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Sonia on March 9, 2014 at 7:05 pm said:

Nothing like those surfers in the background to give your amazing dress some context! I’m glad you’re feeling more like yourself and I’m very curious about the next version and the gapping solution…

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poppykettle on March 9, 2014 at 8:03 pm said:

I gotta admit, this is the first BHL pattern that has really grabbed me. As in I would actually like to make it. I love a full skirt! It’s a gorgeous make Liz, looking forward to seeing the ‘real’ version!

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- sewbusylizzy on March 9, 2014 at 8:05 pm said:
  
  Check out the latest post!
  
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  - poppykettle on March 9, 2014 at 8:06 pm said:
    
    I”ve just seen it and clicked! haha… I’m so glad I have my blog roll categorised into sections because when I get super behind on my blog reading (which is all the time right now)… it means I can get straight to my favourites! x
    
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    - sewbusylizzy on March 9, 2014 at 8:10 pm said:
      
      Oh I know what you mean, I’ve just marked a ton of blogs ‘read’ – I have read them but haven’t got around to commenting. I feel bad – but been too tired to manage everything – it was blog comments or sew…
      
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      - poppykettle on March 9, 2014 at 10:07 pm said:
        
        And sewing should always win in that argument.
      - sewbusylizzy on March 9, 2014 at 10:15 pm said:
        
        So true!
beebeesvintagedress on March 9, 2014 at 8:20 pm said:

Lizzie I always love your posts, i’m so dreaming of the sea now. Worthing Beach is so not the same! Your Flora’s are both stunning and I also love your reflection in the sand. Great job lady!

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- sewbusylizzy on March 9, 2014 at 8:22 pm said:
  
  Thanks lovely!
  
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Katherine on March 9, 2014 at 8:39 pm said:

Please don’t crop your pictures! Part of the beauty of your blog is fab garments with gorgeous scenery, Maybe a muslin but this first dress is a stunner, the fabric perfect for the setting!

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- sewbusylizzy on March 9, 2014 at 8:42 pm said:
  
  It was such a perfect autumn afternoon – it seemed a shame not to do beach shots!
  
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charityshopchic on March 9, 2014 at 8:52 pm said:

Absolutely gorgeous as usual! Particularly love the shot with the reflection on the wet sand – it’s just perfection.

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- sewbusylizzy on March 9, 2014 at 9:11 pm said:
  
  It’s all about location some days 😉
  
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Catherine on March 9, 2014 at 10:32 pm said:

So pretty! i dont like the mullet dresses much, but this is very nice! i really like the style overall!

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- sewbusylizzy on March 9, 2014 at 10:35 pm said:
  
  Thanks Catherine, I’ve never been a massive fan of mullet hens but I think it stops this dress being too ‘vintage’ it modernizes it a little.
  
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justsewbyrickmarsh on March 10, 2014 at 2:57 am said:

That is a lovely dress and I adore the fabric. I like to hand dye fabric like that myself. I really enjoy creating my own custom colors.

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Kelly on March 10, 2014 at 3:43 am said:

Crop your beach photos?? No! One of my favorite things about sewing blogs is seeing day-to-day life, weather, scenery, and so on in places all over the world. When I think about Australia, views of your beach and scenes from other bloggers’ locales are among the first images to come into my mind. Anyway, your dress is absolutely gorgeous 🙂

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Joanne on March 10, 2014 at 4:35 am said:

I feel so jealous of your beach backdrop. But a stunning dress nonetheless. The fabric does not look like a sheet in the slightest. I would’ve never guessed.

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fionaparker17 on March 10, 2014 at 9:52 am said:

Your pictures are so beautiful, no cropping please! I personally like to see the garments ‘in action’ (even though I totally fail at photos that do that!) so your pictures are perfect, and who doesn’t want to see a bit of stunning scenery?! This is just lovely, the style really suits you. Great tip for taking in the back neckline too, I think I’ll try that on my next one

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lisa g on March 10, 2014 at 11:39 am said:

this is beautiful! i love the fabric you used. and even though i come here for sewing, no need to crop those pics! we still have half a foot of unmelted snow… the beach is a welcome sight 🙂

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Bec Stitches on March 10, 2014 at 9:08 pm said:

Beautiful as always 🙂

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sewlittletime on March 10, 2014 at 11:19 pm said:

don’t crop your pics! if we can’t see the sun and beack out of the window at least we can see it in your blog pics!. it’s so lovely!

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Pootle and Make on March 11, 2014 at 1:40 am said:

I love your blog not just for your awesome makes but for your stunning pictures. Your backyard is so different from ol London here so keep those beach shots coming. Beautiful dress, just lovely.

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Amy on March 11, 2014 at 9:16 am said:

Ahhhh you look blissfully calm. I hope you’re feeling better as you look great!

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- sewbusylizzy on March 11, 2014 at 9:27 am said:
  
  My iron levels have improved so I feel much better, thanks Amy. Just a few other things to balance out & I’ll be back to full steam!
  
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Gjeometry on March 13, 2014 at 6:36 am said:

You’ve made this into a perfect beach dress, it flows so nicely in the breeze. Except for walking in the ocean, LOL. You don’t think about hiking up the longer back when you pull up a dress, do you?

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- sewbusylizzy on March 13, 2014 at 7:06 am said:
  
  Not at all! I laugh every time I look at that picture!
  
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symondezyn on March 14, 2014 at 5:30 am said:

Gosh Lizzy, this dress is totally not my style but as the saying goes, you could sell snow to an Eskimo – LOL or in your case, sand to a crab? ^__^ Beautiful dress, and gorgeous photos – lucky girl being a BHL tester! 🙂

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Gail on March 17, 2014 at 8:29 pm said:

I’ll just get out my pompoms and join the cheer squad! Stunning fabric.

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- sewbusylizzy on March 17, 2014 at 9:32 pm said:
  
  Thanks Gail!
  
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samrose7 on April 1, 2014 at 5:39 pm said:

So beautiful! Thank you for the inspiration! I love the high-low, it’s so tasteful and doesn’t seem like trendy at all. Classic. Wonderful job!

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- sewbusylizzy on April 1, 2014 at 7:55 pm said:
  
  Thank you 🙂
  
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