LITTLE BITS OF SEWING NEWS

Amazing I survived being away from my precious Bernina & Betsy for a six days.

Naturally as soon as I got home I unpacked the car, had a shower and went straight to the sewing room. I thought my degree of self-control was admirable. What was I in such a rush for? This…

Simplicity 1880 shirt dress - the collar!

Simplicity 1880 shirt dress – the collar!

Shirtdress-Sewalong-ButtonThis is the progress on my Simplicity 1880 shirt dress sewalong. I’ve never attached a collar – ever. While it did not go as smoothly as I hoped, it turned out OK in the end. The un-faced upper collar appeared to have magically stretched since I cut it out – I wish I had stay stitched it! You live and learn. There was a little bit of puckering, a little bit of unpicking, a little bit of grimacing… and I was beginning to despair that I had destroyed it.

Then a little voice popped into my head… no not from the heavens above… it was my mother! “Just give it a little press with the iron that sometimes fixes things up”.

So rather than throwing the bodice across the sewing room. I threw it at the ironing board and that little voice turned out to be dead right – for not the first time in my life!

Sunni’s instructions were excellent and if it was not for the slightly wonky upper collar I think it would have turned out perfectly. Now I’m desperately waiting for the next step. Yes I could race along and finish it myself but so far I have learnt lots of new things and I’m determined to exercise some degree of self-control…

I will take some more up close photos on another night. I’m little tired today after driving for 5-6 hours.

What else do I have to show for my holidays? I stitched some embellishments this dress bodice – not sure if it’s too much?? Little random beads to highlight the centre of the flowers and some trim on the sleeves – I’m still finishing this off. With no machine I needed to keep myself busy.

Simplicity 1880 shirt dress - embellishing!

Simplicity 1880 shirt dress – embellishing!

And I picked up this vintage pattern delight on Etsy – my first ever purchase from Etsy. Doesn’t it remind you of Sewaholic Cambie? I’m picturing the second one in navy/white polka dot with white cotton lace trim… I love the gingham and ricrac (but definitely not the ‘outdoor’ gigantic pockets – hello hips!)

Vintage pattern score Cambie style - Simplicity 3875

Vintage pattern score Cambie style – Simplicity 3875

And I scored these fabrics. Finally picked up a cheap jersey to try out Sewaholic Renfrew, blue butter suede for a skirt (not sure which one yet – there are three possibilities!), a cute ‘squashed’ polka dot cotton sateen for a ‘work’ Simplicity 2444 and a mosaic voile for a Burda blouse. I don’t consider this ‘stash building’ but rather ‘enrichment’.

Fabric Acquisitions - July 2012

Fabric Acquisitions – July 2012

And I traced the patterns out for Sewaholic Thurlow and Colette Macaron (not putting sleeves on this one). All the sewing and tracing was done at night after the kids went to bed. So nice to have some peace and quiet after busy days in the city, shops and park!

Oh and Miss 9 and I created a ‘sock monkey’ one afternoon! Meet Louie…

Louie the sock monkey

Louie the sock monkey – created by Miss 9 and me!

DO you think the beads and trim are too much on the Shirt Dress??

I HEART SEWAHOLIC CAMBIE

Sewaholic Cambie, View B

Sewaholic Cambie, View B. The perfect sundress, pretty, ladylike but not ‘old & fussy’.

The sun finally struggled out from behind the clouds this weekend. Yesterday was absolutely gorgeous and today was not-quite-as-perfect but nevertheless still lovely for a winter’s day. I can’t complain if I can run about on the beach (in the middle of winter) in a sundress can I?

So off we popped to the beach – pictures courtesy for ELH (ever-lovin’ husband). It was cool but not freezing.

Say ‘hello’ to Sewaholic Cambie View B. This dress is so pretty & sweet it makes my teeth hurt. It’s a good-quality cotton poplin from the highly prestigious establishment known as Spotlight. Despite its humble origins (think the Wal-Mart of fabrics if you are not Australian – huge range, good prices but quality varies), the fabric is very lovely to touch and work with. It has a lovely sheen and smoothness to it.

Perhaps you are a little like me and read the flood of positive gushing reviews about Sewaholic Cambie and thought ‘can it really be that good or does blogland just have a crush on Sewaholic right now? Is it just another sundress?’. Yes I am a total cynic.

So I gave into my curiosity (as I always do) and picked up a Cambie pattern from Sew Squirrel, an Australian online company that sells independent pattern designers – Sewaholic & Colette patterns so far. I have this little dream that they might sell Figgy’s for kids – they are so cool!! I’m sure I’m not the only Aussie mum that would like to make these clothes for her kids.

I digress… back to the post topic… it’s true every blogger appears to have a crush on Sewaholic and with good reason – this pattern is absolutely delightful. I am a sheep. Confession: I have fallen head-over-heels in love with Sewaholic.

What’s so fabulous about it? Everything.

It fits me perfectly right out of the envelope, no adjustments required. It’s like Tasia has some weird ESP and conjured up the perfect sundress for me. I love the fact it is not too ‘strappy’, it’s ladylike without being ‘old & fussy’, it’s somehow modern and a tad retro at the same time, it’s got pockets (I can hear you sigh) and it is beautifully finished.

Sewaholic Cambie: View B, the lining

Sewaholic Cambie: View B, the lining. You have to love a dress that looks just as good on the inside.

I had never lined a dress before – and here is a secret – I had avoided those patterns. I thought they would be too fiddly and hard for this novice seamstress. However Tasia at Sewaholic shook her head and said ‘Lizzy you CAN do this‘ and away we went together, stitching merrily along to her Sewing the Lining into the Cambie Dress online tutorial and the next thing I knew I had a lined dress. Even my mother is impressed!

I also used Tasia’s online instructions to insert the straps/sleeves. Her online resources are excellent, well written and illustrated and I would encourage everyone to use them, even if you know what you are doing I think a fresh approach can be valuable.

I did a couple of things to ‘Lizzy-ify’ the dress. I lined the dress with cheesecloth, a slightly odd choice for lining but it’s cotton, easy to iron and gives the skirt an extra bit of oomph. It also feels good next to your skin – what more could you ask for in a lining?

I added lace trim to the lining so it has a lovely peek-a-boo effect when swishing and frolicking about.

Sewaholic Cambie: View B, the hem and lining

Sewaholic Cambie: View B, the hem and lining.

I constructed the shell and lining at the same time rather than making the shell first and then making the lining as the pattern directs. I think this makes the project more fun. I sew all the darts and the side seams at the same time for each piece – I think that it improves my thought process. I also get horribly bored with making the shell and then sewing up the rather less exciting lining. So I do them in tandem.

I  hand-stitched the hem and then decided to slip-stitch the lining to the dress at the waistline rather than topstitch, ‘stitch in the ditch’ or whatever the pattern said. I was so happy with how the dress was turning out I wanted to take the time to finish it nicely.

I LOVE this dress I feel like frolicking in the sun and eating ice-cream and giggling with my girls. Frightening I know but I’m sure they like this version of their Mum.

After the delight and happiness of View B I decided that I must try View A immediately. I had been reasonably sensible and traced out the extra pattern pieces for View A when I traced off View B.

I picked a black rose cotton sateen from the stash and got some very fine black bastite to line it. It can be quite humid where I live so anything with slippery, synthetic lining ends up a smelly sweaty bad idea in summer. I was a bit worried about cotton sticking to cotton but a march around the house proved that this combination works. Perhaps because it’s an a-line shape.

Sewaholic Cambie - View A

Sewaholic Cambie – View A. This is a quick photo outside the front door after we returned from the beach. A little ‘posed’ but Miss 9 does not have a lot of patience with her model Mother.

With View A I decided to cut the bodice straight across as I really love Sunny Gal’s version (thanks for your advice Beth!). While I love the bodice like this, my bony whippet ribcage is just not built for this look. You can’t tell from the image but it gapes slightly across the top but fits me well across the bust. ELH tells me no-one is really going to notice but I WILL so I’m going to fix up the neckline, dipping it in towards the centre. I think this will fix the problem. And I’ll probably love it as much as View B – actually that might not be possible…

Sorry not so many pictures of this dress – it started to get chilly after we got home. You know about 15 degrees – very cold for us in winter!

Banjo - beach dog

Banjo – beach dog. Just could not resist sharing a picture of the dog. He’s a lean not-so-mean beach-lovin’ machine. Trying not to emulate his bony appearance in my sewing creations!

View A with the a-line skirt is a lovely dress. I think I could wear this to work in summer. It’s a bit more sophisticated and reserved (ELH’s description – I could not have said better myself!). I absolutely love this fabric – what else can I make with it?… I got this one from the little local independent fabric shop. It sells dance fabrics (and often has sparkly shiny fabrics outside) but she has some little hidden treasures! I love going to this shop because we chat about sewing, I like to support small business and Miss 7 delights in the novelty buttons on the counter and will happily spend at least 30 minutes fiddling with buttons while I chat and cruise the fabrics. It’s bliss. Plus it is nice actually talking to someone about sewing and you get better advice from these sorts of places.

I took more time with View A although the machine sewing element was much quicker as I knew exactly what to do. I hand-basted the zip and the lining before attaching the lining to the dress via the machine. I did this mainly because I had some free time one night and I do like being able to rip along on the sewing machine without pesky little pins rearing their colourful little knobbly heads.

My verdict: great pattern and I have plans for two more. I’m rather scared for Dolly Clackett’s sewing future as she sees to be totally spellbound by this pattern and keeps churning them out – and they are all awesome! There’s the green gingham one, the red gingham one and the cute blue floral one. Somebody stop that womanactually no don’t she’s too funny. She tweeted me that there is another one on the works!

ELH’s verdict is View B is the stand-out winner in the Cambie Shoot-out. View A is lovely but I think a tad more sensible – clearly he likes a girly girl – even if he did marry a camo-pant lovin’ jeanaholic lass.

My only complaints about this pattern and dress? Sewaholic patterns should carry a warning label – something along the lines of ‘sewing this pattern may result in obsessive behaviour‘ or something similar. I have two more planned!

Second complaint… I can’t undo the zip to show off the gorgeous lining! There are some laws about public decency I believe. Ah well you can’t have it all…

Sewaholic Cambie: View A, the lining

Sewaholic Cambie: View A, the lining

Sorry just one more…

Sewaholic Cambie: View B, the hem and lining

Not my best photo but I love the trimmed lining peeking out from under the edge of the hem. Awww so cute.

Thank you for your patience in enduring the Sewaholic Cambie Lovefest.  I HEART Sewaholic Cambie.

And hopefully when Sewaholic Thurlow and I are united tomorrow a similar love affair will begin. I’m sure Cambie has room in her heart for another little friend – even if it is her cousin :-)’

SEWAHOLIC CAMBIE BOOTCAMP

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We have had a ‘cold snap’ followed by rain. It’s gotten down to 2 degrees at night which is our version of an Arctic experience. So no Sewaholic Cambie View B pictures just yet. It should be sunny this weekend (touch wood) so photos then.

So what to do with no pictures to post? I decided to indulge my new Sewaholic addiction and tackle View A, the a-line skirt version straight away.

My original plan was to make it up in the same print (but on a black background) as my View B. It would have been a perfect balanced post. However I decided not to sacrifice myself to the blog gods just yet and picked another fabric from the stash instead.

On my ironing table is another rose print, more modern, in a black cotton sateen.

I love cotton sateen. It’s so ‘obedient’. It does not giggle or wiggle as you pin, stitch and iron. It just submits to the stitch.

Its also very forgiving. If you eat a little too much lunch, it stretches without complaint. It’s like a lovely neighbour who collects your mail, tells you look fabulous when you get a new haircut, makes you chicken soup when you are ill and takes in your washing when it starts to rain.

To further my Sewaholic addiction I ordered Thurlow and Pendrell tonight. I think Pendrell might be the perfect work top for me. I sense a flood of Thurlows will soon swamp blogland because any stitcher who has experienced the perfect Sewaholic fit knows this could be the perfect shorts/pants pattern… as soon as I hear they had landed in Australia I ordered mine from Sew Squirrel! I think they think I’m nuts but I’m OK with that :-)’

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KISMET CAMBIE

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This is what is on my ironing board tonight, Sewaholic Cambie, view B.

After the grunge fest that was Colette Purple Haze’l, this is rather like eating icecream on a warm sunny afternoon. Yummy, delightful and old-fashioned fun.

I bought this rose fabric at Easter simply because it made me feel happy. Which is a perfectly sensible reason to buy fabric don’t you think?

I pictured it as a full-skirted summer dress. And then Cambie came along! Kismet!

I’m up to putting in the zipper, attaching the lining, finishing the straps, hemming… quite a bit really!

I’m really enjoying making this dress and hope the joy continues tomorrow. I have a plan for View A as well.

However I shall NOT wear my black cargo pants while sewing with white thread again (although my mum always told me if you were dirty it must mean you had been having fun).

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HAZEL’S NAUGHTY LITTLE SISTER

Meet the nighttime version of Hazel aka PURPLE HAZE’L. Or as I also fondly call her – Hazel’s Naughty Little Sister…

Hazel's Naughty Little Sister - Purple Haze'l

Colette Hazel’s Naughty Little Sister – Purple Haze’l (or Not Smoke On The Water as ELH declared)

So what do you do when all the pattern companies are releasing lovely summer dresses and winter is descending in the southern hemisphere? You just grunge them up, slap on some boots, a cap and coat – and rock on. Who says you can’t wear pretty sundresses in the middle of winter? Just wear them with attitude!

I decided to tackle Hazel once more and participate in the Colette Sewalong 2.0 organised by Lucky Lucille, Sarah and Erin. I was most jealous about the first Sewalong but the canoe-across-the-oceans speed delivery from Amazon meant I could not join in. So here I am! I’m a bit early for the Hazel sewalong but it’s better early than late! And Macaroon looks to be the next sewalong choice, based on the voting so far, which is not my cup of tea, so I want to start my next project while they tackle that one.

I almost did not make this dress but I am so glad I didn’t give up (even when that seemed to be the sensible option). It’s not perfect but it’s grungy fun. This is not cake clothing, it’s just very naughty self-saucing winter pudding.

I freaked out at first when I got home and realised it was a one-directional stripe pattern.

My step-by-step approach to dealing with this.

  1. I picked which set of stripes I wanted to feature in the centre of the dress. I picked the set of smaller stripes.
  2. I decided to run the stripes across the bodice front rather than down. I did this because I did not like how the stripes would not mirror each other out from the centre of the bodice. I also ran the narrower stripes at the edge of the side bodice pieces so they angled down towards my waist. I was trying to achieve an hourglass effect. Not sure if this worked…
  3. I decided to cut the front skirt piece in half and then cut all skirt pieces on the bias for a chevron effect. I thought Wow that will look great – I should have thought, crikey that will make life tough. It was all going swell until I cut the back pieces so they matched at the backs but not the sides. DOH! I had enough fabric to cut these pieces out again and then cut the straps from the oopsie back pieces.
  4. I thought the bodice and skirt looked messy together so I cut strips from the wide black stripe to create a visual break between the bodice and skirt. I just measured the bodice bottom and the two joined back panels and added seams allowances. I then joined the black strips and then joined them to the bodice, matching the side seams. I then attached the skirt to the black strip.
  5. The skirt is slightly narrower than the pattern. I had some oopsies getting the side stripes to match up and trimmed some off the edges. I think it works better as more gathering would ruin the chevron effect – after all that hard work I wasn’t going to let that happen!
  6. I ran the stripes up and over my shoulders to lengthen my frame.
  7. I moved the straps in at the back and the front. I also changed the angle they are inserted into the bodice – otherwise they sort of slide off my shoulders.
  8. I decided to run the stripes straight across my back. Yes, I could have chevron’ed them as well but you need to stop somewhere. I’m not a complete sucker for punishment.
  9. Sob. No pockets. Did not want to ruin the side seams – or make them even harder to match!
  10. A much shorter zip – for the same reasons as no pockets. I pull the dress over my head rather than step into it. On the upside my zipper insertion is perfect – first time ever – and right the first time I sewed it in. Hooray!!

Now just a friendly warning, several shots follow where I look rather sickeningly pleased with myself. Yes, it’s revolting but I just could not help myself.

Purple Haze'l - pleased with myself - Colette Hazel pattern with a bas cut skirt

Purple Haze’l – pleased with myself – Colette Hazel pattern with a bias cut skirt

Purple Haze'l - side seams - Colette Hazel pattern with a bias cut skirt

Purple Haze’l – check out those side seams people!!

Colette Hazel - back view - bias cut skirt

Colette Hazel – back view – bias cut skirt. The stripes are a tiny bit skew-iff towards the hem – my cure is to tell people to just stop looking at my butt. Just focus on my lovely invisible zipper – I finally figured out how to get these in neatly.

Colette Hazel - front view - bias cut skirt

Colette Hazel – I chopped off my head to get rid of the smug self-satisfied look for you 🙂

Apart from the Simplicity 1880 sewalong I mentioned last post (and I’m thinking of throwing caution to the wind and making a red one with white piping, crazy girl), I also want to make Cambie in a very pretty rose print. It’s inspired by an Australian vineyard. Long story. I will tell you one day soon. That’s what I love about sewing, every project is a story in itself. No wonder we blog!

I am also dying to make Oolong. And I think the peacock fabric some of you admired in the last post would work beautifully. I’m not as curvy as the Colette model but I think it might work on me. I love flowy bias cut dresses. Sew Squirrel are trying to get it in. If you live in Australia this is THE SITE to get your Sewaholic and Colette Patterns. Postage is free at the moment and the patterns are a great price. I am devoted to them already. This is where I got my Cambie and Renfrew patterns from. Thank you Sew Squirrel!