Drape Drape 2 – No 2 Dress – tell me what you think…

Posted on January 29, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

113

For Christmas I received Drape Drape from my very thoughtful parent-in-laws (thank you!). I liked it so much I immediately jumped online and purchased Drape Drape 2 and Drape Drape 3… so you can expect some drape bingeing in 2014…

First up is a very simple draped singlet-style dress – or the ‘one piece side drape top’… it’s photographed as a dress in the book and I’m not much of a tunic wearer so it’s a dress for me too! Helen of FunkBunny in Melbourne discovered Drape Drape around the same time… and has made a nearly identical dress! We discussed on twitter how long this dress should be – I think perhaps longer, I’m wondering whether as the hemline rises, the hips look bigger… or is more legs a bonus?

I’m throwing a bunch of images at you so you can see the dress from different angles and in motion… one of the things I enjoy most are bloggers who include lots of images and angles… particularly of the clothes ‘in motion’ after all that’s the reality of wearing them – I like to see how they ‘behave’. Some things look fabulous when you stand still and then hideous with movement. This garment does change with movement, sliding across curves and hanging loose, it’s interesting…

I can’t quite decide what I think about this look on me… I do think that it will be worn a lot in summer, it’s too easy, loose and cool not to wear… but does it suit me? I’m sure you will advise accordingly – please feel free to be honest – I’m interested in your opinion.

Drape Drape 2. Pattern No. 2, the one-piece side drape top

walking…

more walking…

Showing off the chevron side seam…

more showing off…

side/back chevron side – the knit has a sheen and you can see this where the chevrons meet and the colour of the fabric appears to change.

the ‘drape’ bit

side/back drape side

Scared of Drape Drape?
Don’t be. If you can sew knits you can conquer these books. Once you wrap your head around the different style of construction, the unusual pieces and trace off the patterns, the projects are mind-bendingly fun.

The finished garment shapes are achieved from either draping (as in this project), gathering, pleating – and a combination of all in some cases. It’s a great exploration in different pattern shapes and fabric behaviour – I’m fascinated I confess.

The sizing is small as it’s Japanese – I’ve cut this as the small/medium size.

Pattern piece

This is the completed dress flat.

The neckline is supposed to be finished with a bias binding style finish. I tried this and it was just impossible with this fabric weight – it’s just far too flimsy. So I unpicked the neckline… which was overlocked. Yes it took forever. I finished the neckline and armholes with bindings ala Sewaholic Renfrew style.

Neckline – I know my thread is the wrong colour but I still only have red, white & black thread for my overlocker. I know…

Fabric: lightweight ‘crushed’ rayon striped knit from All About Fabric in Tamworth NSW (amazing little shop).
Pattern: Pattern No 2 from Drape Drape 2

Note: I’ve got heels on because I had a quick ‘car change’ as we took photos of another Drape Drape project before this!

SewRetroBatwings – Vogue 1337

Posted on January 28, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

This was going to be a classy DVF-inspired wrap dress…

The wrap dress that wasn’t – Vogue 1337

Then I woke up the morning I was planning to sew… and decided that the wrap dress had somehow morphed into a batwing mini dress.

Vogue 1337

I’d love to explain my creative process to reach this point – however it was one of my more random, arm-waving last moment decisions… I just suddenly didn’t want a wrap dress… and I needed a retro batwing mini in my life.

Vogue 1337

Thankfully Vicki at Minerva Crafts was more than accommodating at the last minute! This pattern screams 80s to me… massive shoulders, batwings, slender skirt… you know – some times clothing should just be fun… too many people take their threads far too seriously! This is fun – fun to make & fun to wear.

Vogue 1337

I think for my first venture into the world of batwings and 80s power dressing, the option of making this in black made moving outside my comfort zone easier. I know lots of bloggers become enamoured of sewing knits – some even appear to be addicted and sew little else. I’m not one of those girls, I’m still grappling with the techniques required for a good finish…

There is a great big long post over at Minerva with more pictures – and information about how I attached the elastic to the sleeves and waistline… go forth and read…

My elastic attachment.

No I didn’t make the self fabric belt… and I changed the neckline to have a narrow binding rather than a facing because the pattern facing is the work of the devil… all the details are over at Minerva 🙂

Pattern: Vogue 1337
Fabric: Black knit from Minerva Crafts.
Kit: available here.

Sweet ‘Lacy’ Sweet Shorts – Pattern Runway

Posted on January 13, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

It’s been HOT and I needed more shorts in my life…

Hello Sweet Shorts from Pattern Runway…

Sweet Shorts by Pattern Runway

Sweet Shorts by Pattern Runway – oops sorry – shoulda fixed my naughty front pocket – too much twirling!

I adore this fabric. It’s a cotton/poly blend from Spotlight. I love its lacy embroidered look – and the fact it doesn’t crush like crazy with wear!! I usually would not touch poly-anything with a ten-foot pole but this fabric was too lovely… it whispered ‘Sweet Shorts’ to me as I walked past…

I was tempted to use the reverse as a contrast on the side pockets… but I wanted a simple pair of white lacy-look shorts so steered clear of the contrast, I felt it would ruin the lovely silhouette of this design & distract from its features.

Hello back single welt pockets…

Sweet Shorts – back pocket, single welt. So, so, so close to perfect!

Hello side slash pockets…

Sweet Shorts – side pocket

Hello single scallop front…

My favourite feature. The front scallop and a high waist is a cute leg lengthener. My pattern matching on the centre seam is not too shabby either.

Sewing Shorts the SewBusyWay

I’m not a muslin maker – unless I have concerns about ease & fit… and shorts always fall into the category for me. I don’t have a lot of meat on me but I have a small waist and a set of hips. I don’t mind my hips… they make my waist look small (looking for the positives people!) – and gave me two huge gorgeous healthy babies.

I did make a muslin of these in size S. I found them to be on the larger side of the scale and sized down to XS. I did try taking in the side seams but then found it was hard to get my hand into the side pocket openings… which sort of defeats the purpose of side pockets… the back also gaped enormously… rather like my Maritime Shorts did at first…

To deal with the back gape, I changed the construction of these shorts.

I split the back waistband in half – adding seam allowances to the centre.

I sew the left-hand side of the shorts and the short inner leg seam. I then attached the waistband in two pieces. Inserted the invisible zip and finished the right-hand side.

I then sewed the crotch seam. I sewed from the front to the back until a few inches below the welt pocket. I then basted the rest of the back seam and checked the fit – I had to take about an inch out of the back as a graduated seam from below the welts to the top of the waistband. Once I was happy with the fit, I sewed the back seam and neatened the seam. I then transferred this amount to the waistband facing, attached it and finished the shorts in the usual way.

This is how I fitted the Maritime shorts. I could have done a massive swayback paper based alteration, redrafted the waistband and so on. However for me this solution works – yes there is a join in the back waistband (which is how the Maritime shorts and Thurlows are anyway) – however for the sake of a great fit I’d forgo the one piece waistband. I’m not saying it works for everyone but it works like a dream for me.

I love the hems. They are faced and give the shorts a lovely finish – and much easier than normal hems!

I did find the instructions for attaching the welt pocket linings confusing… so I just tossed the instructions aside and figured it out for myself. I often find this is the best way to deal with something baffling when sewing. Just puzzle it out using logic, pins and other garments as a reference.

I have a very simple trick when I attach waistband facing. I run a line of basting stitches along the edge of the waistband – so I know exactly where I need to turn the fabric over when I turn the facing to the inside, turn the seam allowance under (using the basting as a guide) and slip stitch the facing to the inside of the shorts. Then I remove the basting. This simple step improves the finish by a country mile – and hastens the ironing and slip stitching process – no guessing by eye or using a tape to check the turn.

Conclusion?

These shorts are not a simple or quick make, there are welt pockets, side slash pockets, faced hems and more. However they are not that hard either. You do need to take your time, possibly make a muslin to determine fit and be patient to achieve a nice finish. They are well drafted and go together beautifully.

I love the flat front, the front seams, the scalloped hem, the back welt pockets, the high waist… fabulous pattern!

I really enjoyed making these. I’ve decided I need a pair in denim…

Windy day!

Sew Neurotic Lizzy

I’ve always shied away for posting too many construction pictures. I’m notoriously hard on myself. That mentality of ‘coulda & shoulda’ done better. I’m tough on myself and always kept my methods & garment ‘innards’ to myself. So brace yourself. This is it.

Note: These shorts are damp and could have been better pressed for these shots… these were immaculate… until a small incident with a small child and red nail polish – I then spilt some nail polish remover on the pocket lining… boo… but you can’t see it from the outside of the shorts – whew. The lining was just bemsilk from the stash.

Sweet Shorts – inside back

Sweet Shorts – inside front

You know… I’ve come to the realisation I’m ok. I can sew. I can sew pretty well. I might not be technically trained. I tend to sew via inspiration & intuition. My fit techniques are not the paper-based ones. I think via my hands – I wave my arms when I talk and I think I sew the same way.

I do take my time with construction, I love a complicated pattern. I love to sew it neatly, I take my time to improve and learn new techniques – and sew like a possessed woman of course. However when I get stuck or something freaks me out – I don’t plough on these days. I put it aside. I try it on. I readjust. Try a different placement. I find a solution. I feel hellishly proud of my work by the end and often fall in love with my makes.

I like to take nice photos. I get a vision in my head of an outfit and that’s what inspires me to sew.

Blogging was also made me realise just how beautiful my home town is – so I indulge myself and my readers wallowing in drifts of snow in a different hemisphere! My clothes are a reflection of my lifestyle, climate and personality – this is who I am.

I’ve decided that a passion for sewing, nice pictures, style/fashion obsession, good construction and a generally happy & positive outlook on life despite any challenge that comes my way doesn’t make me a lame sewist… just a different one. Not better or worse, just me. I’m OK with that.

Pattern: Sweet Shorts Pattern Runway
Fabric: Cotton/poly blend from Spotlight, $19.95 a metre, I used 90cm.

Also see: Poppykettle | House of Pinheiro | Dixie DIY | Cirque Du Babe

Oh and we spotted several of these guys on the way home from taking the above photos…

Cute Aussie critters

Sew Hat Binge & the Gunmetal WINNER

Posted on January 11, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

I’ve had a rather bumpy start to the year – I managed to put my ‘back outta whack’ on New Years Eve… not doing anything interesting I’m sorry to report. I was actually typing a blog post at 7am, drinking a coffee, had a stretch… and crack. Ouch.

Anyways, after quite a bit of pain, afternoon sleeps, lots of physio visits and anti-inflammatories, I am on the mend and almost back to ‘normal’.

So I tackled some smaller projects while I was recovering. HATS!

When I started doing some posts for Stitch 56, one of the things that interested me was doing some more sewing for my daughters. They do appreciate it enormously… so I started at the top – literally with their noggins… and chose Kids Hats by Melbourne based designer Nicole Mallalieu of You Sew Girl to road test.

I was a little nervous – as I always am when I am attempting to sew something completely new and unfamiliar. I didn’t need to be. This pattern makes hatmaking a breeze. No sooner than you finish one, than you want to make another!

The pattern has three hat sizes for head sizes ranging from 48cm through to 57cm. The pattern pieces are not nested which meant I could just cut out each size and then trace them with the markings onto my fabric. I’ve been making so many hats I think I will trace these onto template plastic for a more durable pattern.

The pattern contains detailed instructions, photographs and variations. There is lots of learn about how interfacing behaves, what role bias plays and more. I found it an interesting project!

However the best thing? These were just fabulous fun to make! It takes me about three hours to make a hat now – I prefer to hand stitch my brim trim and crown lining into place so it takes longer than it might for others.

Hats for all! Even the crazy children!

My children are aged 8 and 10 and I made the large for both of them.

I made the first hat from denim from the op shop. The lining and trim was made from a retro floral sheet scrap a friend had given me. I made a fabric flower and we finished it with a crochet-covered button from the ‘random’ button tin. She’s been wearing it ever since!

The denim edition

My second daughter then required a hat immediately, pronto, ASAP! This one is made from cotton poplin and lined/trimmed with red rayon. Unfortunately she chose a black background fabric so I am making her another in a lighter shade – better for the really sunny days! However this is still as cute as a button – or rather a strawberry!

And one for the crazy kid…

Finally I have made a third for my daughter’s friend who looked most envious as I made Zoe’s. It’s posted over at Stitch 56 – check it out.

I highly recommend this project as a crowd pleaser AND stash scrap buster. It’s a winner!

There will be many many more hats in my sewing future!

Finally, just a few little tips that I picked up as I made the hats…

1. Sewing the Curves

I found sewing the curves was very easy if I curled the fabric up and away from the front of the presser foot as I sewed.

Holding the fabric upwards from the presser foot as I sewed around the curves.

2. Think about your pinning

Position your pins so they are easy to remove as you sew (see above) and they don’t scratch you as you sew!

I pinned the top to the crown with the pins facing inwards – a lot less ouchies when sewing.

3. Achieving even brim stitching

All my hats have top-stitched brims, I think it makes for a more sturdy hat. The lines are evenly spaced at 2cm intervals. The easiest way to achieve this is to use a seam gauge and place a post-it note on the arm of your machine. Then watch the edge of your hat against the post-it note (rather than the presser foot). Perfect every time!
I also increased my stitch length slightly.

Careful measuring and sewing resulted in perfect top stitching every time!

There are lots more tips in the pattern – and I can’t stay here and type as I have hats to make… and if you are interested in adding hats to your sewing stash, check out Nicole’s You Sew Girl blog which contains lots of interesting information. You can obtain this pattern from Stitch 56… where there are also a bunch of gorgeous purse patterns… hmmmm tempting….

I’ve just purchased the Fedora Pattern by You Sew Girl… I think I’m addicted! This one is for ME though!

Pattern: Kids Hats by You Sew Girl, provided to me by Stitch 56
Fabric: denim, popin, rayon, scraps and more from my fabric pile!

AND THE WINNER OF THE LOLITA PATTERNS GUNMETAL GIVEWAY

by random number generator is….

RAVENNA

who hasn’t left her email address, so please send me an email Ravenna at sewbusylizzy (at) gmail (dot) com and I will organise the send the pattern out to you. If I don’t hear from Ravenna by Wednesday 15 January I will have a re-draw.

Lolita Gunmetal – the sweet version

Thank you everyone for your kind comments and interest in winning the pattern.

If you didn’t win but still want your own version on Gunmetal – you can buy the pattern as a PDF, paper pattern – and even the D-rings at Lolita Patterns.

Sweet Lolita Gunmetal & a Giveaway…

Posted on January 5, 2014 by sewbusylizzy

I was meant to blog this weeks ago, it’s been a long journey but with a happy ending…

Lolita Gunmetal – sweet but a little bit sassy

Yes that look on my face says it all – it’s been an epic journey. This is my Lolita Gunmetal.

I was mention to blog this when the pattern was released… which was errrrrr some time ago… oops…

I’ve had a range of challenges, apart from it arriving in my inbox at my busiest time of the year (suck it up princess Lizzy)…

THE BLOOPERS

Officeworks printed my pattern and RESIZED it to fit – despite my very clear instructions not to do so. Unfortunately my store requires you to leave the file and come back to pick it up. as it turns out – even if you are there they still get it wrong. You can’t upload and order via their site as it resizes to fit. So you have to go in and then go back for the job, it’s a 24-48 hour turnaround. Painful. Unfortunately I was in a rush (too much family/work stuff going on & me not thinking clearly) and whipped up a test run. It was a bizarre shape and then I realised why…

I returned to Officeworks to explain what had happened. They didn’t offer to replace the job, I am so over the store I didn’t actually care. They offered to print it on the spot. I explained how to print it, I stood there and she printed the first page. She went to print the second page and said “Oh I better resize that onto the page“. “No,” I said, “Never resize my printing, they are patterns and useless to me printed as a resized file“. She printed the second page… and yes she had printed the first page incorrectly – but didn’t tell me that! No, I discovered it when I got home. I was really angry because she must have know the first page was incorrect and didn’t rectify her error.
Did I go back? No. I did send an email to Officeworks head office. Whatever, there is a Xerox shop across the road, I email a file to him and he calls me when it’s ready. Yes, he doesn’t resize to fit if I request. I know. Radical customer service.

Thirdly, and this is the corker, I finally ordered this sweet cotton viscose ‘Ring Around Roses’ fabric from Tessuti… and then sewed it up with a 5/8in seam allowance instead of a 3/8in seam allowance. Needless to say it with all those princess seams it didn’t fit… well not in a flattering way!

So I reordered the fabric – and some silk modal jersey to line it with and finally we have this sweet little top!

Lolita Gunmetal – frill details

THE FABRIC

I was challenged to source fabric for this project, it’s actually hard to get decent stretch fabric where I live. It’s either a solid colour or polyester (note I do not wear polyester, not even RTW designer polyester, I prefer my skin to breathe, I know, old fashioned of me) – I initially planned to make a sexy gothic version. The pattern lends itself to it… however I hesitated as it’s really SewNotLizzy.

I’m loathe to just dismiss something “Oh that’s not my style“. The interesting thing to investigate is how to own the look rather than slavishly recreating someone else’s style. I really liked the idea of stripes but often find stripes harsh to wear – when I stumbled across the floral stripe fabric on Tessuti website I could just see it working beautifully. A sweet ‘country girl’ top. Yes, it’s a little like Grandma’s bathroom wallpaper but only if you let it be. I don’t think Gunmetal is for wallflowers…

My version is a little different to the pattern. The pattern using a sheer, lace or mesh overlay on the ruched panels, the mesh is attached to the fashion fabric and the top is also lined – with the fashion fabric or a contrast if you wish. I simply used the stripe fabric and a silk blend jersey as a lining. I do not put buttons or D-rings/lacing on the centre panel as I felt the floral pattern was sufficient.

Lolita Gunmetal – wish I’d lined the peplum too – oh well must wear higher waisted jeans next time…. still favouring one side – one more visit to go to get ‘straightened out’

THE VICTORY

I’m not much of a frill girl and I was even more scared about ‘making’ frills from the fabric itself – I hate raw edges on my clothing so that wasn’t an answer for me. I did buy some lace trim but in the end I wanted those floral stripes as the frill so I just had to figure out how to do something with my overlocker other than neaten seams or sew stretch.

Hands up if that’s all you use your overlocker for? Me too… until this top. I took a deep breath got out my manual and figured it out… and it’s embarrassingly easy.

I have a Brother 3034D overlocker. You simply…

Turn off your machine.
Lift the foot.
Turn the wheel until the needles are in the highest position and the loopers are extended (note I had to read my manual to figure out what was what – I know hilarious, I could thread it and neaten seams – and that was all I cared about until now!).
You unthread and remove the left (outermost) needle.
Open the front and remove this part (you might need to give it a little tug – sorry the kids are in bed and I don’t want to dive into the sewing room to find my manual to find out its name – I’ll update the post in the morning!)
Just pull it out sideways…
You need to adjust your stitch width and length (the dials have R on them for this purpose – go figure) and away you go.
Adjust this one…

adjust this one…

This takes no time once you get the hang of it. I was quickly changing the machine between the two sewing methods by the end of the project and will be using it a lot more! I also hemmed my sleeves and peplum with this rolled hem method. Love it. It’s dainty for those finer fabrics and adds some body to the hem.

If changing the overlocker dials freaks you out – take a photo before you move them and use it for reference when you switch back. Worse case – read the manual – it’s actually helpful! I discovered stuff about differential feed and whatnot for sewing different fabrics – go figure. And that little piece you just pulled out? It slides back into position easily enough – it’s clearly meant to come out as there is a storage space for it inside the door of the overlocker…

MY CONSTRUCTION TIPS

My main piece of advice is to take this project slowly. Don’t rush as there are fiddly bits but your patience will be rewarded. I found it easier to work on the ironing board or a flat surface, especially with the ruched pieces.

After all my disasters I was so keen to get this version right… so I pinned, machine basted and then overlocked my seams. Yes it takes longer but it provided opportunities to adjust the gathers and seams. It was worth it.

Go a size up – I didn’t and it’s a very neat fit. My fabrics have a bit of give in them and the lining is very fine so it’s quite wearable but less stretchy fabrics might be challenging.

I was naughty and went against the grain for the centre front panel – I like the visual effect…

I’m glad I made it and have the pattern. It’s a flattering top, the comfort of knit with the benefit of princess seams and feminine details. Yes it’s a challenge but the reward can be great!

Gunmetal – back view

WIN A GUNMETAL PATTERN

Simply comment below and let me know you would like to go in the draw. I’ll announce the winner on Friday 10 January – heck I’ll even throw in the d-rings Amity sent me that I haven’t used. I know, I spoil you.

Yes this is a PAPER VERSION. You don’t need to worry about your home printer or Officeworks.

The Gunmetal Sewalong starts this week – so while you might not get it in time – you will have a great reference to make your own version.

Please leave an email – otherwise I can’t get in contact with you.

Pattern: Lolita Patterns Gunmetal (also has a dress version)
Fabric: Ring Around Roses & Snow Jersey from Tessuti

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…

Drape Drape 2 – No 2 Dress – tell me what you think…

SewRetroBatwings – Vogue 1337

Sweet ‘Lacy’ Sweet Shorts – Pattern Runway

Sew Hat Binge & the Gunmetal WINNER

Sweet Lolita Gunmetal & a Giveaway…