SIGNED, SEALED, DELIVERED – SEWAHOLIC MINORU

Posted on August 22, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

I have finished the Sewaholic Minoru jacket.

Sewaholic Minoru – good for hangin’ around in. A nice casual jacket

and the back view

Monkeying around in Sewaholic Minoru – back view

I purchased this fabric to make the Lisette Passport jacket – great idea, until I got home and realised they were postage stamps – not passport stamps. Doh!

Then along came Sewaholic Minoru.

I really like the pattern but I must say I’m not terribly fussed on my choice of fabric (I like the print just not the fabric itself) or my finishing. When I realised the things I did not like, I was ‘past the point of no return’ and the choices were to 1) ditch the project in a huff or 2) solider on.

I took Option 2.

Sewaholic Minoru jacket fabric – postage marks!

What don’t I like about my jacket?

My topstitching is inconsistent and looks like I hired a drunk monkey to do it.

Sewing in the hood zipper was just horrendous. I did it three times!! The stitching is wonky. I should have used a metal zip. But no, SillySewBusyLizzy decided to use a pink zip as a contrast. It’s a dress zipper and I’m not happy with the finish – and the hood shall hang out forever more!

Sewaholic Minoru – my disaster hood zipper

No needle seemed to agree with this fabric and worse, the print ink is quite heavy and the reverse is quite light. When the needle pierced it, the blue seemed to ‘break’ a little, and on the inside of the hood (which is only lined on one side because I used ‘stash fabric’ to line it and I ran out) you can see the lighter reverse of the fabric. The hood hides it (I had enough fabric to line the hood). It still annoys the little OCD person who lives inside me. There is a raw edge on the lower edge inside of the hood (that only I can see) – next time I would encase this with bias binding.

The waist feels too high. The pattern calls for 2 inch elastic however I felt 1 1.2 inch was more than enough. I just need to drop the waist down a couple of inches.

I only put in one inner pocket. I don’t actually think I would use the inner pocket much (unless I finished it with a zipper for security like SewMM suggested). But outer pockets? I miss those!!

Sewaholic Minoru – the inner nuts and bolts

When I washed the fabric and it dried (yes, yes prior to cutting and sewing), it developed weird ‘worn’ looking creases in the blue background. I don’t actually mind it as I look like a parcel that’s been through the post several times… a worn battered package (probably a little close to the truth for comfort…).

Sewaholic Minoru – the worn parcel look!

I got a bit ahead of myself when sewing and did some silly things – like not stitch across the bottom of the plackets when attaching the lining, stitching the lining all the way down on the front and a few other things. I would strongly recommended following the instructions and using the online Sewaholic sewalong – then it’s easy (Note to self: follow own advice more often).

Will I make it again? Yes – despite all my bellyaching.

What do I like about the Sewaholic Minoru pattern?

There are not two-hundred-and-fifty bazillion pieces to cut out.
It’s lined.
If you go slowly and refer to the online tutorials, it’s not that hard to sew.
The big collar.

What don’t I like?

No front pockets. I could have put these in – but I was cranky with the fabric and very very tired so I did not worry (a few days later I stayed in bed for 17 hours so that should explain some of my poor decisions!).

How will my next Sewaholic Minoru be different?

Front welt pockets or side in-seam ones. I’ll have to wear the jacket for a while and figure out where I would like to put my hands.
Lower waist elastic. It is the right size across but the waist is waaaay too high.
No hood.
Put in both inner pockets.
Make a tie belt and attach some belt loops.
Improve my topstitching!!

I have stacks of jackets – I adore them. It doesn’t get terribly cold here so jackets are great to throw on is there is a cold breeze or it’s early morning or late afternoon. There is always room for another jacket in my wardrobe!

In closing, Miss 9 thinks this is ‘the coolest jacket’. I was surprised, she’s often embarrassed by me – not because I’m a dag but because I turn up to school in smart work clothes. Quote: ‘everyone knows who you are – they all go “Zoe, Zoe there’s your Mum” – that is soooo embarrassing’. Last year she instructed me to wear jeans, sneakers and polar fleece – like other mums. The following day another mother told me her daughter had asked her to dress more like me – so you really can’t win LOL.

Note to self: I need to dye my hair again. Soon someone is going to realise I’m a curly-haired ash blonde (aka mousey brown frizzball). I’m going a hideous auburn/orange colour… but I would rather pay off my overlocker/serger…

Funniest thing? There are postage stamps from New York, Paris, London – even the Vatican… and then there is this from Australia…

Sewaholic Minoru – there’s even Townsville

Fabric: $10 metre from Spotlight. Lining: pastel pink polka dot cotton from stash.
Pattern: Sewaholic Minoru from Sew Squirrel

NOT ENOUGH JUNK IN MY TRUNK – SEWAHOLIC THURLOWS

Posted on August 6, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

Sewaholic Thurlows – full view. Sorry black is very hard to photograph at night!

‘Not enough junk in my trunk’ as the Black Eyed Peas and Fergie so succinctly put it.

Or the post that could otherwise be known as ‘Does My Bum Look Flat in This?”

I’ve knocked out Sewaholic Thurlows No.2. While the execution of the pattern is pretty good (my welts are only minorly woeful) and the pattern is absolutely fabulous, I just think I need some more junk in my trunk for them to look smokin’. I think my butt looks flat. Perhaps that’s a good look – I’m not sure. I was very disappointed with myself last night but after a good night’s sleep and some photographs I think I’m being a little hard on myself.

Sewaholic Thurlows – side view

The fit is excellent around my upper hips and waist. I like the long wide legs. But I just don’t have enough ‘junk in my trunk’ to fill out the upper legs – I found a cure though – strike a pose and the junk appears to be in my trunk. So perhaps I just need a little more attitude – or self-confidence.

Sewaholic Thurlows – strike a pose

I have figured out welt pockets which makes me mighty pleased with myself.

This time I put a strip of interfacing behind the welt pocket area and there were no temper tantrums on my behalf during constructions. I did two test runs before I attacked the actual trousers – as there is no going back once you cut that great big hole in the junk trunk zone!

Welt pocket practice – using contrasting thread

I was kind to myself during welt pocket practice and stitched white on black so I could better see and understand what was going on.

I also marked two sewing lines on the welt strips before I started sewing. I found my finish was much more even – not perfect but better. I would like to practice these some more as once you get the hang they are kinda cool!

Welt Pocket practice – marking the stitching lines

This fabric is really quite nice. A black damask which is 35% cotton – it’s very hard to buy fabric for trousers where I live. I guess that’s what you get for living in a coastal resort/retirement hotspot. The flash photography makes it look frightful – those sparkly bits are just weird and not there in ‘real life’. I have made a mental note not to let anyone photograph my junk trunk in these pants with a flash in future. For some reason I think I can manage that.

I did not add belt loops as I’ve always purchased trousers that don’t need a belt. I like flat front trousers (no pleats please) with long wide legs to create a long lean line (I dream of actually being tall – I just have to live with visual tricks!) – these pants tick that box so no belt for Sew Busy Lizzy’s Thurlows.

I was having a pitiful-me-session about my pants and ELH (Ever Lovin’ Husband) pointed out they look like ‘bought pants’. “What” I cry “My bum looks this flat in pants?” “Well yes, it’s cute but that’s how pants look on you.” Shock and horror from me. I guess I’ve never let anyone do a close up photograph of my junk trunk before. Never again! (Unless it’s relevant to the blog of course).

Calico Stretch has commented on my first Thurlow post and provided me with some great fitting online resources to go and check out. It’s an ongoing challenge. But now I think I have a go-to pattern for wide-legged pants and shorts.

In the meantime I’m retreating to dresses, skirts and tops.

SEWAHOLIC THURLOW CONCLUSION: Ignore all my self-critical blather. This is a great pants pattern – give Thurlow a go! I’ve learnt a lot – made welt pockets, sewn a fly and made ‘grown-up’ pants for the first time ever. They sit beautifully, not too high or too low. There are FOUR pockets – which should keep any stitcher happy!

IN OTHER SEWING NEWS: I knocked up a muslin the other night after I put the girls to bed. It’s a Colette Macaron – part of the Colette Sewalong 2.0. Because I have had numerous fitting issues with Colette (clearly they don’t design for celery sticks like me), I resolved to only do the bodice as that’s my main area of difficultly and also only use scraps from previous projects. So here is my Macaron muslin.

Colette Macaron muslin bodice – front view

It’s too big in the back and a took 25mm seams instead of 15mm seams at the sides. I think I need to take some out of the centre back panel if I decided to make this.

I also used some bias binding to finish the neckline as that’s my plan if I end up making a ‘real’ version of this one. This is too big in the back and I think you need to think hard about the contrast and shell fabric as this muslin sits a bit odd due to the different fabric weights. Me no like. Yes, it’s cute but the slight tension between the two bothers me no end. I would not wear this, it feels slapdash dodgy homemade.

Colette Macaron Muslin bodice – back view – too big

I’m not a huge fan of the white top version of this pattern on me so I have other plans if I do proceed with this one. I have a tendency to going grungy with Colette – which I think does not always sit comfortably alongside all the lovely Colette stitchers finished projects which favour prettiness, pastels and florals. So I’m not sure about this Colette 2.0 Sewalong project. I think I’ll turn into the slightly obnoxious Australian in-law that no-one really wants over for dinner… ‘oh dear did you see what’s she’s wearing…tsk tsk’

Besides this is my colour combo for the shortly to be produced Sewaholic denim a-line with red polka dots. Denim is drying on a rack!!! Watch this space (and send some warm weather to speed up the process).

And even if you are nice enough to say that this muslin in lookin’ cool, I’m not going to add the skirt. The blue is denim and the skirt would be waaay to stiff for this pattern. I would look like Davros.

Colette Macaron muslin bodice with my Vogue 1247

YET MORE SEWING NEWS: I’ve clearly been rather productive of late and also knocked out a quick little skirt for Daughter No.1. She adores it – she was even careful not to leave it at a friend’s house after a play day. Trust me that degree of care for her belongings never happens. Photos later this week.

BUT WAIT THERE IS MORE! I’ve started cutting out a Sewaholic Minoru.

WOEFUL WELT, PUCKERED POCKET & WONKY WAISTBAND

Posted on July 29, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

I’ve had a shorts disaster and I’m thrilled to bits! Today was a sewing fail but a pattern win and thrown up a host of new things I need to master. Hooray.

Sewaholic Thurlow front view. Wonkiest waistband ever!

Last week I posed my third Sewaholic Cambie. This dress was near perfect. The waistband met perfectly at the zip. The lining was immaculate. I was proud.

Pride comes before the fall.

I could have not posted this and you never would have know what a shoddy stitcher I could be. At least this way you know I’m an honest one 🙂

I was stitching by the light of my old bedside light as the main lights were switched off as my husband and father-in-law installed some new light fittings downstairs. Stitching black fabric in very dodgy light conditions is very difficult. Good thing I did no unpicking. So the horrid fabric combined with very poor light did nothing to encourage a happy ending!

As soon as I went to sew my Sewaholic Thurlows I realised the fabric as a disastrous choice. It frays, it stretches quite randomly and is just plain old cheap and nasty. Even trying to finish the edges was a joke. The fabric just fell apart more.

I had a moment where I thought about ditching it all together and starting again.

However Thurlow involves a whole lotta cutting so I wasn’t keen to start again. So I decided to treat this as a fit test for the pattern.

I did not finish the seam allowances (why waste cotton on a wadder?), when the stretchy fabric resulted in a wonky waistband, front fly and hideous welts, I just sailed on. In fact the cheerful abandon with which I sewed was quite liberating. “Oh look one side of the front is longer than the other. How funny.” “Oh look that’s the worse welt in history. *giggle* and I kept sewing until the bitter end.

I have never made pants before, sewn a front fly, made a welt pocket so the entire project was a newbie for me. I learnt a lot and know what I need to practice before I spend decent money on respectable fabric.

My first welt pocket was such a disaster I decided to dump the second welt pocket on the back as I was purely making the shorts up at the point as a muslin to check the fit. I even resorted to sewing across the ends of the welt on the outside to get it to lay flat as the fabric was fraying so badly on the inside.

Once you pick yourself up off the floor after laughing at the welt pocket of woe, can you please let me know what you think about the fit across my derrière?

Sewaholic Thurlow – back view and the worst welt EVER!

I think the welt pocket perhaps needs some interfacing behind it. Only the welt bits were interfaced and I think part of my welt of woe problems was that my material was a bit too soft and floppy. If you are a welt guru, please let me know if that helps.

The front fly was much easier than I thought. I did a bit of puzzling, pinning and flipping and I managed this part quite quickly.

I got a bit over-excited about sewing on the waistband and seeing if they fit. I sewed the waistband and the waistband lining to the trousers, instead of just the waistband and leaving the lining free to tuck over the raw edges. Stoopid. So the inside of the shorts are a hideous mess but I really don’t mind. I should have known better as the waistband is attached the same way as my Vogue 1247 Tardis Skirt.

I have not hemmed them. There is no button etc to hold them up – just a grotty old safety pin. Yes, I’m all class today.

Right from my first seam I saw these as a rough sketch for a future pair of trousers and very much a learning ground for a whole bunch of techniques I had never done. Welts, flys, and ‘grown-up’ pants!

Sewaholic Thurlow side view. That welt does not get any better in profile!

Despite my disasters and wonky pants Sewaholic Thurlow gets the thumbs up from me. As ugly as these shorts are, I think there are some nice trousers hiding in the envelope for me. I really like this pattern. Thurlows would make excellent work trousers. I like trousers that fit my derrière and then have long loose legs and these fit the bill perfectly. I think they would make cute denim shorts with contrast floral or polka dot pockets and lining.

Laugh all you like – I certainly have! But if you have any pants fitting tips I would more than pleased to hear them. I saw a pants fitting book at the library and I think I will borrow it, although I don’t think these are too bad at all for straight out of the envelope, size 0 with no alterations – other than my horrendous sewing! LOL

But Thurlow and I will return to the sewing machine once I have more obedient fabric for View A trousers!

Check out Lladybird’s gorgeous gingham Thurlows – now that girl can sew!!

Pattern purchased from Sew Squirrel!

IN OTHER SEWING NEWS… the daughter’s confirmation dress is finished! It’s big and it’s pink and she’s wearing it tomorrow night!

SEWAHOLIC CAMBIE POX and some SELFLESS SEWING

Posted on July 26, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

Sewaholic Cambie No. 3 – Don Giovanni inspired!

After a severe bout of Renfrew-itis I’ve now come down with the Cambie Pox. Yes I’m absolutely dotty about Cambie.

Sewaholic Cambie No.3 – the inspiration

This dotty Cambie was inspired by Opera Australia’s Oz Opera’s production of Don Giovanni coming to our theatre next month. When I received the costume sketches, I immediately thought, I gotta make that spotty one. It’s on display in our theatre foyer in the lead-up to the production. This production by Opera Australia’s Oz Opera has been set in 1950s Italy, there are leather jackets, 1950s frocks, sunglasses and flower-pot hats. I’m not a huge opera fan but my girlfriend (almost ‘not an opera fan’) saw it last week and called up to RAVE about it. She said it puts the soap back into opera. It’s fast, funny and the costumes are divine – you can see all the costumes sketches here – beautiful!

Can’t wait. Really! I’m busting to see an opera!

The polka dots only cost me $9 and I lined it with white homespun rather than batiste as the polka dots are very flimsy and I wanted a big skirt and plenty of structure in the bodice. Plus the polka dots are also rather see-through! So I also omitted the pockets as I did not want to see the pocket outline through the skirt fabric.

I’ve posted the back view, guts and hem at the end of this post – just in case you are sick to death of my Cambies! I understand I really do.

You might recall I’ve been rattling on about having to make a dress for Miss 7.

I admit it… I am a selfish selfish selfish stitcher. I want to stitch for others… but then I do and it just ain’t so much fun as stitching for me… I reason that I sew to relax and dealing with other people’s expectations is not relaxing.

Yes even when it’s my kids… bad bad mummy…

After several false starts, I nearly finished Miss 7’s confirmation dress. We were told to dress them in something they might wear to a restaurant. hahaha. So I imagined what I might dress Miss 7 in to take to a restaurant and chose this pattern… and pink flowerly fabric with lots and lots of holes.

And it was all going swimmingly until I realised… yes the dress may be lined but with all those darn holes I was going to have to underline the dress as well! Ok. Deep breaths. Laid out the patterns pieces and discovered the pink fabric is more like 140cm wide, not 150cm as I thought, and there was not enough for the circle skirt.

Argh. Another week of procrastination. Decide to alter pattern by shortening bodice, adding a waistband and attaching a gathered skirt in the style of Cambie. I made up a very rough muslin (no zip) and decided to risk it. Not my finest production but she is thrilled. “Mum I LOVE it”. The next problem is getting her to stop twirling so I can take a picture – so you will have to wait for now. And I still have to hem and do a few decorative bits and pieces before I’m finished.

However I will share the now Miss 9’s first communion suit ,yes suit, because everyone else wore a dress she wanted a suit – she looked so stylish and very Jackie O – my mother made this and it’s perfect).

Zoe’s first Communion (Miss 9)

Hopefully one day I’ll be as clever as my Mum!

Sewaholic Cambie No.3 – the waistband

Sewaholic Cambie No.3 – the lining and hem, trim inspired by Scruffy Badger, the champion of trimmings

Sewaholic Cambie No.3 – the guts. I love the Cambie lining, it just makes the dress perfect.

Sewaholic Cambie No.3 – this will make a lovely market day dress! I also think this will look cute as a button with a denim jacket.

Now I’ve got a vision of a denim a-line Cambie with that little red polka dot waistband. Now wouldn’t that look cute!

SUFFERING FROM SEWAHOLIC RENFREW – ITIS

Posted on July 20, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

Yes it’s true, Sewaholicism is catching. I am currently suffering from a new strain called Renfrew-itis

hmmmmmm, now let me think… how much do I love Sewaholic Renfrew View C….? Lots! This was just after I had sewn on the bands and came racing downstairs with it on, hugely excited and thinking it was the best thing EVER. I even wore it out to the supermarket before I machine neatened all the seams. Naughty!

Of course being me I just had to try out another view of the pattern – you know… just in case… so I made this one…

I’ve never stitched a knit fabric in my life. Ever. I know lots of people say “you don’t need a pattern – just trace around your favourite t-shirt.”Absolutely, except I had no idea how to attach the self-fabric bands or neck edge. I wanted some instructions and just the proportion of bands to body/sleeve. My mother is a great stitcher but she is a pattern lady and she sewed knits for me in the 80s that had ribbing, so I was short on advice. When it comes to knits I cheerfully admit I’m stooopid. However, thanks to Sewaholic I’m feeling a little smarter on that front. I don’t think I need to trace anything, Renfrew and me are BFF xoxox.

The downside is that I really wish I had an overlocker/serger so I could power through these Renfrews even faster! View B took me about an hour. View C a little longer as the sleeves are longer and the cowl is quite large.

ELH (ever lovin’ husband) likes View C best – and so do I. I have a cowl neck obssession, they are not always in the shops and now I can make them – in every colour!! I really adore this one as there is no possibility of any sneak peek when you lean forward. Rockin’! I like this View B too, it’s very practical.

ELH says View B is ‘nice but just looks like a t-shirt you would buy’. Exactly, it’s just a t-shirt – I love that! I could fly under the radar with this one and all of my friends are going to think this is RTW! Ha! Trickster Deluxe!

I still have no idea which stitch would be best to use on stretch fabric on my machine.

Suggestions anyone?

stitches on my Bernina sewing machine – which one works best for knits?? My instruction manual was not the most helpful document in the world…

My other major triumph is I managed to get both of these shirts out of less than 2 metres. I’m a Sewaholic Size 0. It was a bit of a squish but I managed.

This is a nothin’ fancy mauve knit. I looked everywhere for stripes and could not find anything I liked. The only stripes I found were either poo-tones or a wide black-and-white stripe which I also thought would look too harsh against my skin. Finally I found this, I asked for 1.5 metres and when they unrolled it there was an extra 20cm or so. Usually they ask if you want it (making you pay for it of course) or they chop off the paltry amount for the remanents bin – which is just ridiculous. However I struck it lucky with a tired and cranky shop assistant who just shrugged and gave it all to me for the price of 1.5m. I nearly fainted. I quickly recovered, paid and ran for my life! I’ve never been so happy to be served by a surly shop assistant.

Sewaholic Renfrew – View B on the tiny wife! This apparently how I look from my husband’s height. The other photos he crouches down from his 6 foot 5 height to my 5 foot 4 which makes me look normal (or him not so freaky tall…)

After another late winter’s night out I came home pulled on my Tardis Skirt (Vogue 1247) over my leggings for these photos. I swear this skirt just sighs when I pick it up – “she’s going to wear me again! Doesn’t she own anything else!?’ I love this skirt, it’s not ‘cake’ as Sewaholic’s Tasia described the more sensible everyday sewing projects – this is bread! I think Renfrew is headed for bread status too.

I find the fit a little baggy around the middle – I’m used to wearing quite fitted t-shirts but I love this shape with my skinny jeans, it provides a nice balanced shape.

I’ve got some ‘smile’ lines radiating out from over my armholes. I’m not sure what makes armholes smile, my fitting book doesn’t explain that (perhaps they are happy because they don’t stink?). I’ll have to check my RTW t-shirts and see if they do this – and indeed if it’s just my posture in these I’m totally exhausted pictures. Either way it’s not a significant eyesore so me to be tossing it in the disaster pile.

I bought this pattern from Sew Squirrel. I’m trying not to buy the Minoru jacket pattern. I’ve been strong so far. Maybe next winter (I keep telling myself winter 2012 is nearly over!! Wishful thinking…)

Sorry for the less than inspiring backdrop for the pictures but ELH is away fishing for four days and I could not wait that long!

Now I have to, have to, have to make my daughter’s confirmation dress. Fortunately it doesn’t have to be white – that’s first Holy Communion next year!

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…

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