The big decisions… and I need some underlining advice…

Posted on December 6, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

I’ve been thinking about making a Christmas dress. I kinda missed the Birthday Dress event so I’m seeing if I can whack out a Christmas dress. I’ve had many moments of decisiveness… followed by more moments of indecisiveness. My first thought was to make a Cambie – because I just love Cambies, right? Yes, absolutely I have the Cambie Pox. And I have been dying to make another. However I just thought I needed to stretch myself and perhaps, you know, be wild and crack out another pattern… because… well… I have a few… and my next Cambie shall be a pretty little aqua skulls affair, remember?

So I was tossing up between these two.

Christmas 2012 dress pattern choices

The slim straight shift (the sort of dress I haven’t made much of but it the style I wear to work a lot – perhaps not quite as slinky but suits my shape) or the pink vintage halterneck… in a dramatic red cotton damask. Please note readers that it can be very hot in Australia at Christmas time, so shrug aside your cowls, scarves and cardies and think HOT, HOT, HOT.

Then today I thought I might make the Lonsdale, a decision I was pondering recently on Twitter…

Sewaholic Lonsdale fabric choice

I purchased this fabric for the Lonsdale and it’s navy/red/white and not particularly Christmassy… but I can wear this all summer (and most of spring and autumn) and it seems like a much more sensible idea… what do you think? I love the fact it’s got a bow… I think that will be my Christmassy touch 🙂
*sigh* I’m still not sure.

Right now as I’m typing I’m thinking the Vogue dress would look very striking. And it says that it’s easy… much harder to squash in a big Christmas lunch and then a big Christmas dinner (and we usually have breakfast at friend’s house before yo-yoing between the parents’ homes later in the day. The dress would definitely be a post breakfast outfit – maybe even a Christmas party dress if I can make it quickly).

Next big question… I want to make a cropped sleeve version of this jacket and I have this fabric.

Fabric for my Burda Bolero

A tiny remanent from The Fabric Store. I think I can squish it out of the pattern by cutting the facings out of a cotton sateen. It’s a cotton/silk/lurex blend.

Should I underline this as well?

Please don’t tell me to underline this with silk organza – because I cannot buy that where I live and I am SICK of paying shipping costs for ABSOLUTELY anything that is not cotton voile/lawn *frown* my local fabric stores are limiting!

When ELH returns from his fishing adventures I will get him to photograph my Maria Denmark Yasmin Yoke skirts… he’s been away a lot due to a serious family illness, hence my sewing and blogging has not been as prolific, but life should return to normal soon… oh hang on it’s Christmas…

HOODIES FOR NICE GIRLS… Vogue 8854

Posted on December 1, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

I made a hoodie…

Vogue 8854 hoodie – for a ‘nice’ girl

I can’t be a bad-ass cos it’s a Vogue hoodie. Yes the hoodie for ‘nice’ girls… from the latest season release from Vogue.

I used a Marc Jacobs knit that I picked up in Sydney’s Surrey Hills The Fabric Store last month. It’s divine. Soft and cuddly. Navy on one side and royal blue on the other. And a screaming bargain at just $8 a metre. Yes, yes I know you are really jealous now… I only needed 1.6m for this top! I got the pattern for about $7 (including postage in a major indulgence haul from BMV).

Vogue 8854 hoodie – neck closed with toggle

Rachel of MyMessings in Twitter suggested making it fully reversible with flat fell seams… completely awesome idea… I eventually came to the conclusion the fabric would be a little thick (the fabric! not me thank you very much!). Good decision. I snapped two needles making this hoodie (or maybe it’s more of a bad ass hoodie than I thought).

My biggest dilemma was whether navy should be on the outside or inside. I know! Decisions!! I nearly put navy on the outside. However I have quite a few dark jeans and felt the royal blue was more versatile… and sometimes a huge chunk of shapeless navy or black just looks… well… shapeless.

This is absolutely nothing fancy (except the dead posh fabric of course) about this. I love the contrast colour that you see inside the lower back hem, hood and neck facing.

Vogue 8854 hoodie – back view

I found the hem went a little wavy/wonky but I’m not too concerned. I think it will settle down with some wash & wear. Again I think the weight of the fabric is an issue here… but it’s so snuggly all is forgiven. Despite being quite thick fabric, it’s very soft and drapey.

It’s extremely comfortable, easy to wear and I think will be a casual winter favourite. It’s not fancy wear but hey, everyone needs a little ‘slouch’ in their life right?

Vogue 8854 – hood up

I turned under the inside edges of the neck facings. They just looked untidy unfinished or overlocked.
I flipped over the fabric to get a contrast on my neck facing when the toggle is undone. I thought from the look of the pattern only one facing would be revealed. Doh! Not true (although I could be a little neater in my styling – this was a slap on the nearest jeans/footwear and run into the backyard photo shoot). I don’t mind it so much as I figure it’s going to be done up most of the time. Note to self: stop trying to be tricky.
Vogue hoodie – all the guts – no glory. Still need to tidy up the end of the neck/hood seam. It was tough to sew through the thickness of the fabric neatly.
I used a wooden toggle instead of a button – a suggestion from ELH.
I omitted the snaps which are to hold the flap down more firmly. I just think they would look messy with the neck open.
I used a twin needle on the hem and cuffs. Yeah I know, dead fancy for a hoodie right?
I set the sleeves in flat because… well it’s just so much easier! There is no gathering in the sleeves. I attached the sleeves and then sewed up the sleeve and side seams in one go. Why make life hard for yourself?
I love this fabric and I like the cuffs turned back so the contrast inner shows. I haven’t stitched these back as I want the length for the colder winter days. Yes, tragically I live somewhere where winter isn’t really that cold and this will probably be quite snug most days…
Vogue hoodie – neck open.
I hand-stitched the outside bottom of the neck opening down, rather than edge stitching along the bottom edge as the pattern says. I found the edge stitching was very obvious due to the thickness of the fabric. It created a giant puffy indentation. Not so fancy. I also stitched a little further up the bottom of the opening as I did not want to put little press studs to close the opening. I just thought it would look messy when the toggle was undone.

I figure if I get sick of the ‘bum flap’ as I have nicknamed it, I can always shorten it a little.

Next time I am fortunate enough to make it to The Fabric Store, I am going to pick up some lightweight Metalicus wool fabric, or NZ merino knit. I think this would make a gorgeous t-shirt weight top. Almost like a tunic… I suspect this is the sort of fabric Vogue have used in their top.

Good news? I’ve got the same fabric coming my way at Christmas courtesy of my mother-in-law. 🙂 this time it’s soft pink and fawn… not sure if it’s another hoodie or a jacket… I’ll have to wait ’til it talks to me…

Random interesting facts about hoodies: Madalynne recently posted about hoodies and a little about their origins.

IN OTHER SEWBUSY NEWS…

Whole Wheat Progress, the back

I’m knitting a cardigan… I think… I had a major brain explosion and couldn’t nut out the pattern. When I woke up one morning this week and went ‘Doh! You IDIOT’ (and that was being nice to myself – I can knit I’m just not very good at it – and of course I’ve chosen a pattern with lace and cables… see My Messings… I’ve been in love with this pattern ever September she posted it as a consideration in her knitting adventures… she went on to knit Miette.. and has now started Whole Wheat by Alexandra Charlotte Dafoe (you can pick up the pattern for $7 on Ravelry – where I am SewBusyLizzy if you wanna be friends) … I decided I could not live without it anymore either.Now I have figured out the pattern I don’t know what my problem was…. other than being ridiculously tired of course…

Funny… I can sew a dress with boning, lining and underlining but knitting is hard!

Final picture – taken by Miss 9 at bedtime on the iPhone…

Hoodie shot by Miss 9

Now I have to go and cut out a corporate jacket for Miss 9 who is starring as the corporate b*&^% who tries to outsource the elves work at Santa’s workshop. Cheery Christmas stuff…

NOT SQUEE OR TWEE… JUST ME… Sewaholic Alma: View B

Posted on November 26, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

Sewaholic Alma – not squee or twee… just me

I’ve been in love with this fabric ever since I spied it in the deserted rayon fabric corner of Lincraft.

Sewaholic Alma fabric – I LOVE these birdies

I kept going back and stroking the roll… and not buying it… I eventually realised that I would always regret not buying it once it disappeared and I couldn’t visit it any more. I could only imagine it as a top – with very few seams or darts – so I purchased a metre to soothe the birdie craving.

A couple of weeks ago I decided to make another Alma and it occurred to me that the birdies might work. I love this Sewaholic pattern, I’m not much into fuss and the simplicity of this design really appeals to me, no buttons, no frills, no tucks just a blouse that sits beautifully. I adore my first Alma (how could I not with all the compliments I get when I wear it!) and the love affair looks set to continue!

1204 Sewaholic Alma – a beautiful versatile blouse

I decided to make View B which is the Peter Pan collar version. It feels a little ‘sweet’ to me so I decided to add a black contrast collar to take down the ‘twee’ factor a notch.

This pattern is a cinch to sew but I took my time. As it is rayon it is a little more ‘flighty’ than an obedient voile or lawn. I cut it out carefully and did the best I could to line up those slightly wonky wires that the birdies are perched upon.

As with my first Alma, I french seamed the shoulders and non-zip side. I even managed to get the fabric lines to match up at the front and back darts.

Sewaholic Alma – the side zipper

I also used the trick I learnt when I made the MariaDenmark tshirt & Simplicity 1880 – setting in the sleeve flat. How much easier does that make setting in a sleeve!!!

I wore it to work today – paired with my Maria Denmark Yasmin Yoke skirt. This skirt is very simple to make/fit and even has two little pockets. It’s available as a PDF download, and the pattern itself is just 12 pages! I don’t tend to print out the instructions, I read them on Evernote on my iPhone or iPad as I sew to save paper. There is also the benefit of enlarging bits to read! Maria sent me this skirt when she released the pattern – and it’s just taken me ages to photograph it (sorry Maria!). I whipped up two of these skirts over two nights – and I made this black one from the leftovers from my Sewaholic Thurlows. It’s very easy to fit. You sew the front and back and then pin the sides together and take in as necessary before you sew the side seams.

Sewaholic Alma – as a work blouse. I’ve paired this with Maria Denmark a-line Yasmin Yoke skirt! Photo by my daughter!

I’ve also made the Yasmin Yoke skirt in a burgundy ‘butter suede’ (whatever synthetic concoction that is!). So will need to photograph that too sooner or later! This skirt can be made in two lengths – as usual I favoured the ‘hussy’ length version 🙂

Slight Mishap

Despite being so careful in the making of this Alma, I botched the collar.

Like Sew {MM} when I added the facings to the neckline, I flipped them over to discover that the collar did not meet perfectly in the middle. I decided I could live with it. I even bought buttons to sew in the little gap to make it look deliberate.

Then we had a family trip to Sydney and on the way home I decided I could not live with it after all. I just felt as the collar was such a strong contrast to the rest of the top it was just too ‘obvious’ any attempt to disguise it would just look like a botched job.

Even though I had trimming back the neckline seam allowances, I unpicked about two-thirds of the front neckline. I ran a gathering stitch across the blouse body neckline I had unpicked. I used this to pull the neckline in just a tiny bit, re-basted the collar back onto the blouse, re-attached the facings and hey presto collar perfect! If I make this version of Alma again I will definitely be running that row of gathering stitches around the neckline before attaching the collar and facings.

I should have taken photos of the botched job but I had been sucked into a black hole of sewing pain & dilemma and could not think of anything else but my collar!! Sorry!

I’m really pleased with this ‘fix’ as you can’t tell that there is any gathering at all – it is very minor. And it saved the birdies from a fate worth than death… the rag bag!!

WHAT I LEARNT

Sometimes it’s better to just get up and walk away from the sewing machine when something goes wrong. Leave it for a few days but don’t give up on a problem. Sometimes the solution will pop into your head when you least expect it. Just let it happen don’t let the frustration or disappointment overwhelm you. Remember it’s a hobby not a life/death scenario. 🙂

VERDICT

I’m really happy with this blouse. I feel like I’ve somehow blended ‘twee & squee’ and come up with something that is very ‘me’.

Sewaholic Alma – not squee or twee. Picture taken late in the afternoon – light not so good!

DETAILS
Inspiration: Marie of A Sewing Odyssey
Alma Blouse: pattern from Sew Squirrel (no postage charge to Aussie stitchers!!). Fabric: rayon blend from Lincraft. Size 0
Maria Denmark Yasmin Yoke Skirt: Pattern available on Craftsy. Fabric from Lincraft – leftovers from my Sewaholic Thurlows.
Vogue 1247 skirt: Blogged about here.

Made-by-me family. Me in Vogue 1247 skirt & Alma blouse. LIttle Miss in her confirmation dress that I made/designed.

Managing a Sew Busy Life

Posted on November 21, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

I’ve had the rather challenging life lately. Life seems to be a slow-motion avalanche swamping me at the moment. In the midst of my less-than chillaxed life, sewing has been a real refuge from the onslaught of reality.

Sewaholic Alma: sneak peek. It makes me giggle that I have tweeted this image a few times…

In the past couple of weeks, I have made a gorgeous new Alma blouse (yes pictures soon, have patience people! I have provided a sneak peek above) and a muslin for MariaDenmark’s new trousers.

MariaDenmark 301 – Winnie Wide Legged Trousers

Maria and I met through Twitter and it’s been fabulous. She’s got me to sew an a-line skirt (in fact I’ve made two I just have not had a chance to take pictures due to the life avalanche – which I have been feeling very bad about), a t-shirt and now trousers.

Maria sent me her trousers pattern just before it was released – to test instructions, notches etc. Life shortly thereafter delivered a quite spectacular landslide and they took me a little longer than usual.

However I’ve finished my very rough muslin. The fabric only cost me $4 and it’s a polyester twill – which sounds horrid but it’s got an excellent drape. Given my first Thurlows I thought it best to be cautious with my cash!

Maria’s new trousers are wide-legs. Despite my love of hussy-length skirts, I have always adored wide-leg trousers. And these are perfect. I can’t wait to find some nice fabric and make them again! The junk trunk is happy.

MariaDenmark Winnie Trousers: muslin back

Please excuse the appalling pictures taken on the iPhone at 11pm! And the unironed pants… and I’m standing slightly lopsided… and they are unhemmed!

These trousers have just 12 pieces – compared to the 21 pieces for Sewaholic Thurlow. Now I really like the Thurlows but the simplicity of Maria’s design appeals to me – and I love the fit. I took my sides in a tiny bit too much and will add belt loops next time.

Maria directed me to a Threads online tutorial for doing the fly front zipper and it was magic! Life changing stuff! My fly front zip went in perfectly!

Maria is running a pants ‘fit-along’ at the moment so if pants have scared you, don’t be afraid. These pants are easy peasy. Grab a pants pattern, learn some new stuff about fitting your booty. I’ve just got to figure out how to get the back waistband to fit perfectly and then my life will be complete 🙂

And my Apronalong prize arrived today! Thank you Karen 🙂 x I love it – even the wrapping paper/bag!

Apronalong prize!

BUSY LIVES

This weekend’s #sewingsocial got me thinking. About sewing, about being busy. And about managing all those things (It was ironic that I had to stop scrubbing the kitchen floor to participate).

Busy is a catchcry of today’s world. We are all so busy (or in my case sew busy and so busy!). I personally don’t think I’m any busier than anyone else. Or that the things in my life are more important or demanding than anyone else. I think it’s all about perspective. The things that we do in our lives are important to us as individuals and make us who we are – our values, priorities and ambitions.

I often get asked how I manage everything. I don’t know, it’s just how my life is and I just get on with it – not much else to so about it really is there? I get outta bed (some days more reluctantly than others) and just plod my way through life.

I have a fulltime job. I am married with two children. I don’t have a cleaner for my house. I cook our meals, we rarely have take-away. My kids do after-school activities. I squash in a weekly grocery shop. I have a high-maintenance dog. I sew. I blog. I tweet. My husband has one night out a week at ‘boys night’. We go to Sydney to see family now and then. Not spectacular but it’s busy all the time – like most people’s lives. I often don’t sit down until after 9pm every night and I’m back up at 6.15am.

And I sew. I often get asked ‘how do you find time to sew?’ Good question but the better one is ‘why do I find time to sew?’

In the midst of family dramas, workplace upheavals and sick children, sewing provides me with a centre. When I sew, trace patterns, cut out, it’s almost like the world’s chatter shuts up. I think ‘suffer’ from the ability to have a very singular focus, I am VERY goal-driven. So doing something completely unrelated to the demands of my life actually means all that ‘essential’ life stress disappears for a time. I am only listening to the pattern, the fabric & thread, the hum of the machine and the hiss of the iron.

It’s something I’m choosing to do. I can stop sewing at any time and there is no yearly review, letter to the editor, customer complaint, call from the school, no heart attack, no sick child if I stop.

I think if your hobby stresses you out – you need to get some perspective on it.

Does it matter if you do a blog post today? If your zipper is a bit wonky? Your bound buttonholes need some work? Not really.

Chillax peeps. It’s just fabric, thread and a few notions. Just enjoy it for what it is. Pretty stuff, fresh challenges of your choice and connecting with like-minded people.

Does sewing relax you?

PS – thank you for all the lovely birthday wishes – the old gal appreciates it xox

A VINTAGE DRESS FOR THE OLD GAL

Posted on November 18, 2012 by sewbusylizzy

Yes, it happens but once a year.

No I’m not talking about me wearing brown clothing – or even Christmas, Easter or New Year. These are all things that we celebrate with great noise, joy, street parties, lots of chocolate, drinking and so on.

This once a year event is my birthday which I generally let pass with as little fuss as possible. No noise, chocolate (maybe some drinking) and the biggest party is my children unwrapping my presents as they get more of a thrill out of it than me. I don’t even really like birthday cake. Yes I am BORING.

This year I am making an exception for you! It’s my birthday tomorrow (20 November – remember I’m a scary scorpio LOL) and I’m making a little bit of blog noise… because I have a new dress and that’s what I do in this corner of the world.

I didn’t make it. I didn’t buy it.

My mother-in-law bought it for me at the vintage dress fair in Hobart. It’s a 1950s dress!

Happy Birthday Vintage Dress – bodice. I’ve got my hand on my hip (cos I’ve got old gal attitude) my shoulders are not lopsided!

It’s a very simple dress but beautifully made. I’m sure whoever owned it before me, loved it dearly as it is in amazing condition.

When I found this on the rack I didn’t think it would fit. Its waist is 24 inches (I always remember how Scarlett O’Hara’s waist was 18 inches. Seriously! How small is that!!). I was convinced it might not even do up but I decided to risk my self esteem in the pursuit of chocolate lace (so there is chocolate at this party). It did, and it fits like it was made just for me.

Happy Birthday Vintage Dress – old gal can’t handle the snow glare!!

Since I am always boring you to death with beach pictures, I decided to take advantage of the snow in Tasmania and frolick about in the snow for these pictures.

Happy Birthday Vintage Dress – back view

And you want to see inside? *blush*

Vintage dress – inside

And the shoes? I know that Anne of Pretty Grievances is dying to know…

Well… my husband’s size 13 sneakers…

Happy Birthday Vintage Dress – the shoes

I know stylin’! In my defense I hadn’t planned on any vintage dress photo shoots while having a long weekend in Tasmania. My boots would have been much harder to crop out! I spent most of my time dressed like this…

Vogue 1247 skirt and Sewaholic Renfrew cowl neck

Don’t ask me my age – it destroys a gal’s mystique and it makes me glare at you like this…

Happy Birthday Vintage Dress - the cranky shot

Happy Birthday Vintage Dress – the super model frosty stare… actually just snow glare induced but makes me laugh all the same…

More importantly – the burning question for today is… what is the best way to get rid of a ‘musty’ smell. I’m a little terrified to entrust this dress to a drycleaner… I’ve heard a theatre rumour that the wardrobe people use a vodka/water spray to freshen up clothing between shows… More research required… and if it doesn’t work at least I can drink the experiment….

And Happy Birthday to the zillions of sewing bloggers born in November! Clearly Scorpios love to sew!!

Sew Busy Lizzy

she sews by the seashore…