This was one of those pattern tests when I just went bananas. I’ve made three… so far… yes there are another two in the works. I think I have a new BFF.
I’ve mentioned I was working on this several times and I’ve been BUSTING to share – I love this make and it’s very different everything else I’ve ever made here.
Today I’ll show you the first two – because the third is something completely different (patience is a virtue – apparently).
Yes, it’s the By Hand London Holly pattern.
The three faces of Holly! A jumpsuit, a playsuit and trousers!
When the By Hand London girls contacted me about Flora… I was cheeky enough to ask if they would mind designing a jumpsuit… and funnily enough it was already in the works! So when they asked if I would like to pattern test… I was completely and utterly unable to refuse. They had me at ‘hello’. I chose to make the jumpsuit as I had been obsessing about jumpsuits – and I seriously don’t think I could pull off a playsuit in my grand old age.
As they have previously blogged, By Hand London completely redesigned the bodice during the testing phase due to tester feedback. So I started all over again… and this time I was beside myself with excitement… BECAUSE IT WAS A COWL BODICE. Apart of my recent jumpsuit obsession – I also have a mad passion for cowl anything. I rocketed past 7th Heaven and into Sewing Nirvana…
HOLLY THE FIRST
My first version was a black ‘sandwashed’ cotton linen. I was having some weird confidence crisis and cut a size larger than I usually would, I didn’t think there would be enough ease around the hips. I’m glad I did as I needed it for the length through the body. The hip in the test pattern hadn’t been graded correctly – this has been fixed. I would recommend that you follow the pattern measurements – then again everyone has a different preference when it comes to fit. That said, I’m longer through the body than average.
Sadly this lovely version is a bit too big through the waist and hips (widthwise) as a result of my decision to upsize. My pattern testing approach is to make up at least one version of the pattern exactly as drafted. I could have graded out the hips etc however my personal approach is to make the pattern up as is. I prefer to see how the original pattern fits first in comparison to other patterns (and there is the notches & all that business to consider) – then I alter on the second round. That’s just the Sew Busy Lizzy way. No better or worse than others.
By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit – front view. Had to crop this to death as the camera strap flopped over. More doh!
So this lovely outfit is slightly too large as you can see (and could have done with a better iron, doh!). It creases through the body as I walk due to the slight oversizing (well hello Christmas lunch outfit I guess!). But heck. I still like it.
By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit – side view
I’ve been considering how to alter it. I did run it in quite a bit through the side seams. However, there is only so much width that you can take from the side before it looks odd. I think the solution might be to unpick the back waist seam and fiddle with the centre back seam and bodice seams etc. Then again this pattern is not a difficult or overly involved sew so it might be more rewarding to simply make another in black.
By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit – front view. I think I should lengthen the straps…
Argh – how I love it in a solid. It doesn’t feel obviously ‘jumpsuit’ and ‘fashion-y’, it’s lovely and classic (well I think so!). Sorry any up-close detail photos were a big fail… it’s just so very black…
I’ve used a belt to create a defined waist and dress it up – it’s more ‘going out’ wear than Holly the Second.
HOLLY THE SECOND
With Holly the Second, as I had done the pattern testing business, I added about 1/2 inch crotch length to the test pattern and cut a size US2/UK6 at the waist and graded out to a US4/UK8 at the hips. I took about two to three inches off the legs (I’m 5 foot 4). I cut the bodice as a size US2/UK6.
I was curious how Holly would look as a mad print… and here she is…
By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit – side view
I really should have posed with my ukulele (yes I play one – badly). This is a very soft drapey rayon… feels like heaven – looks like a Hawaiian riot!
By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit – back view (somewhat wind whipped)
She’s a little mad, crazy and birthed from my fabric ‘library’ – but amazingly comfortable and I love the fit and feel of this one. She’s going to be lovely on a hot summer day. As you can see the legs are too long – I’ve hemmed it for heels.
I feel like I could hang out with Oonaballoona in this one.
THE MAKING OF HOLLY
It’s really easy to sew together. Like really easy.
It’s got a side zip (no front fly and all that business that often goes with trouders). I added a hook and eye above my zip.
The front bodice is cut on the bias (think about this when choosing your fabric) and the back is in three pieces. For the jumpsuit version, I would recommend a fabric with drape.
The straps are bias and sewn to the inside then turned over to the front and stitched down. I did this by hand, including sewing the straps all the way along by hand. I don’t mind hand stitching later at night (although black-on-black stitching kinda sucked).
I’ve like my fit slightly looser. Given the softer fit of the bodice and the wide, wide legs I personally would steer away from a mega snug fit through the body – that’s my personal preference. It’s got a bit of ‘swoosh’ about it.
I had to take about 3 inches off the leg length as I’m 5 foot 4.
MY HOLLY LOVE AFFAIR
- Wide, wide legs
- Shoestring bias straps
- Bodice pleats not darts
- Gentle fit
- Side zip (I do like underarm zips, you barely see them)
- and clearly… the COWL. Kill me now.
By Hand London Holly Jumpsuit – I just love this bodice
Overall I do really love this pattern – it’s not often I sew the same things three times in a row so that does say something. I really like the bodice, I love softly fitted bodices. I also adore wide-leg trousers. Overall I think the shape is quite lengthening and slimming on my frame.
THINGS TO CONSIDER
Now if you are thinking that a jumpsuit ain’t for you because you have more curves than me – well go check out the beautiful Cashmerette who has just blogged her version (featuring the first designed jumpsuit bodice). She looks fabulous. And she’s also beachside 🙂 gotta love that!
The straps are fine so it’s letting the girls hang as nature intended or wearing a strapless bra if you can’t live with ‘peek-a-boo’ straps. As you can see I am wearing a normal bra with Holly the Second. I pulled this jumpsuit on after snapping my Hello Summer Dress while walking the now world-famous Banjo (also on a tight timeframe as my husband was leaving the country for two weeks). Pulling the jumpsuit up under the dress was modest enough but I wasn’t changing my underwear in public even if the beach was very quiet that day. That said, the bra isn’t unbearably obvious. Thin strap bras could look quite cute if they blend in with your fabric.
If you shudder at the thought of strapless, let me tell you Calvin Klein makes some amazingly comfortable ones (for me anyway), I wear mine all day without any discomfort. Good underwear is worth every penny (note: personal opinion here).
THE GIVEAWAY
BHL offered to help cover the cost of fabric or find someone to provide fabric for this pattern test. However my stash is big (I consider it a ‘library’ these days) and can accommodate the odd pattern test… instead I suggested something for my readers instead – I get enough stuff and like to share the love when I can.
So I’ve got the giveaway provided by By Hand London – you can indulge yourself in Charlotte, Georgia and Flora, note: Holly wasn’t printed when they sent me this package during the testing phase. Plus it’s in a cute tote bag with stickers!
blog giveaway from BHL
This giveaway is open to everyone – anywhere in the world. NOW CLOSED.
Competition closes Wednesday 10 September 2014 (now closed)- winner chosen by random number generator and notified via email (winner has been notified).
PATTERN TESTING
I pattern test. I’ve always been quite clear about that.
I completely understand & respect that some people have issues with the process.
Here’s my take on me doing pattern testing… I simply wanted to say a few things about the subject (kinda why I blog LOL).
I’m OK with doing pattern testing, I once edited craft patterns – making, editing and writing is a passion for me, personally and once-upon-a-time professionally. Yes it involves receiving a pattern – it’s hard to test without one. Pattern testing sits comfortably with me. I enjoy it – even with deadlines and changing details.
Sew Busy Lizzy is about me (whoa – self-centred moment). I sew and blog about sewing because I love it – it really is that simple. I started sewing because I needed some ‘happy’ in my life at a very difficult time. Blogging came next as I had no one to talk to IRL about sewing (I started talking to myself in this space and people started reading and talking back – no strategy at all).
I have a fulltime career and this is my ‘yoga’. It doesn’t mean I’m not serious about my sewing – in fact I’m very OTT about my sewing!
Yes, I sometimes receive patterns and I blog for Mood Fabrics (still pinching myself about that one), I disclose these things. I pass patterns, fabric etc onto my followers when I can.
That’s the plain, simple, unadorned truth. If you think otherwise, chuck me on a lie detector and prepare to be disappointed. I’m really that dull. Sorry about that.
I’m just here for the sewing 🙂
Heavens, that’s probably going to ignite a debate here or elsewhere but seriously people, I just like to sew…
… on a lighter note… and here’s one for Banjo’s loyal followers… yes, my blog photos are most often taken on our family outings when walking – or running with – the adorable little hound known as Banjo.
Banjo hot on my heels…
You can meet Holly the Third tomorrow 🙂 I promise…
Sew Busy Lizzy 
I was so excited to see Holly released that I went searching for pattern tested versions – little did i know you’d be on that list! (I am SOOOO behind in my blog reading lol) Way to go! I love both versions of your Holly but I really adore the classic black one – that could be worn to death in so many ways 🙂 You’d be right at home in a fancy cocktail bar with some jewellery and killer heels added to it, but it looks just as appropriate on the beach 🙂 Can’t wait to see your third version! What a stunner of a pattern – thanks for asking the BHL ladies for it!! ^__^
It is a fabulous pattern and it’s a real joy to make – the legs are amazing!
I love that last one – he’s so fast!! Your jumpsuits look great! I am nearly positive this pattern isn’t for me, but that neckline is pretty much perfection…
Maybe make it into a dress? I do love the neckline, it’s softer than the usual bodices which is a nice change
Oh gawd, will you all stop showing off your gorgeous Holly jumpsuits please?! Seriously, I was a firm “over my dead body” when I first saw the pattern thinking it wouldn’t flatter curves, until I saw Cashmerette’s version…. ! Now you’re tempting me again with not one but TWO! It looks like a great pattern and a very elegant, flattering fit on both versions. Love it! x
I used to be very hesitate to try any new shapes until I started sewing – now I’ve embraced new things and I’m often surprised by what I like. I think blogging, taking photos and reading other blogs and seeing makes on different shapes and sizes really does help. Cashmerette’s is fab!
I wasn’t sure about this one to be honest but I like the look of the belted black… Maybe I should keep holly in mind…
PS – love the floral number on you! Now make a playsuit for the summer 😉
and would be perfect for a Port Macquarie holiday…
I’m still not sure if the pattern is for me, but it’s most definitely for you, both versions look fabulous!
Thanks Suzie!
Ah, Banjo is the cutest! Both versions are beautiful, the fit is great, Thanks for the giveway!
I love a good giveaway – makes me happy to be able to pass on some things people might enjoy.
Wow, stunning! I love both versions and I seriously want a black one in my wardrobe now.
The black one is super wearable!
Wow! These two Holly’s are so different from each other that I don’t know what to expect for version number three! Entering the giveaway now. The Georgia dress is on my list of things to make, so I’m crossing my fingers that I win!
Ah the Georgia dress is rather fabulous! I love trying different fabrics and patterns on the same makes, it’s fascinating to see how it changes everything!
Love love love! Especially the super jazz one! Also, you write beautifully. I’m sure this is not news, but I just wanted to say it. 🙂
Oh that’s such a lovely thing to say – I enjoy writing a great deal – which makes blogging a happy thing for me to do – a fusion of my two loves.
I love these! They look so comfortable. The combination of wide leg pants and that lovely, understated neckline is a win in my book.
They are amazingly comfortable – I think if you get the length right through the body they are like fancy PJs!
Looks fantastic. The bodice is perfect!
I can’t get enough of the bodice – those pleats are perfect!
You wear this pattern so well – it’s perfect on you! I love the look of it.
I did think, despite my obsession with jumpsuits, I might not like them on me – I was wrong – and my husband thinks they are rather fabulous!
Fabulous jumpsuits, you look so good in everything.
mwah – thanks Lori!
Looking gorgeous my lady, and thanks for the shoutout!
No worries at all – I loved yours with the two fabrics!
I really like your versions of this pattern! I have seen a couple of other patterns, but until yours, I haven’t been interested. I love your fabric choices.
Thanks Shirley – I love playing around with different fabrics. If I like the pattern I like to see how different it can look in different fabrics – it’s playtime!
Dang. I really wasn’t sure about the whole jumpsuit thing and was basically eyeballing the fabulous trousers. You and Casmerette have basically made me think this is a look I could do! I’m definitely a fan of the solid version but mixing a print into the top half could work too…
In short, you look fabulous and all kinds of sophisticated in the noir mk1!
I feel rather sophisticated in the black linen – which is quite a feat as I rarely feel glamorous due to my height LOL!
Gorgeous, and I love the one with the print. LOVE.
I thought you would like the print one Sassy!
Love them all! The black is elegant and the floral is fun!
Thanks Roberta – it’s interesting how the same pattern can be completely different!
Wow, just fabulous. Can’t see myself in a shoe string strap jump suit, but they look great on you, I especially like the black one.
I can’t wait for summer now!
I love you jumpsuits, but the tropical floral one is my favorite! Superb job as usual! 🙂
Thanks so much Carly – I had a lot of fun with this pattern which is the most important thing!
Holy mama – YES! I’m already excited about seeing your 3rd version!!!
Well I hope you weren’t disappointed 😉
Gah! Love this make on you so much. Both versions look completely amazing.
Thank you so much!
you look fabulous and thanks for the Banjo pic!
now what post would be complete with a little hound picture!?
Both choices are lovely. I’m sure there maybe another in the wings. I hope so.
I think there will be I just need to find a window of opportunity – easier said than done this year!!
Hey. There’s always next year’s sewing q.
You know, I have never had a desire to wear a jumpsuit before. But those wide, wide legs are speaking to me. Love it in classic black. You look fabulous!!
I am a massive fan of wide leg trousers – they always make me feel rather glamorous and swanky.
So classy and elegant – and perfect for a beachy summer too.
I’m still not sure this pattern is for me but it looks great on you.
Banjo photos are always welcome too!
I do love to share my puppy dog. I always thought jumpsuits aren’t for me but I do love them for some occasions. Amazing easier to wear and no coordination required!
I do enjoy the jumpsuit. It looks lovely on you.
Thank you Lorna!
Love them both, you look fabulous in them. Cute pup too.
Thank you Tammy – Banjo is quite a beautiful dog, very graceful and fast at the same time.
II don’t know if this pattern is for me but it really does look fantastic on you! and the combo of the wide legs and cowl top are kind of enticing me to try it
I absolutely love wide legs and the bodice is a great change from the usual bodice of two or four darts.
Just love the black one! You look beautiful, very classy!
Thanks so much Lee-Anne – never pictured myself in a jumpsuit (I know weird – despite my obsession) but I definitely enjoyed making and wearing these!
I don’t know if I’m a jumpsuit kind of gal, but these look amazing on you! Such breezy and cool outfits. Perfect for a lazy day strolling the beach, or out for drinks, great job! Thanks for the giveaway opportunity as well. I am headed there now… 🙂
I do have a pretty relaxed coastal vibe lifestyle so they do fit in with what I would wear.
these are both beautiful! have to say, i’m particularly smitten with the black version… so classy and elegant. can’t wait to see the third!
Hopefully Number 3 wasn’t a disappointment!
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Love your black Holly — so classic. I’ve always been anti-jumpsuit but I think I’m going to get this one, I like that there’s a pants option of I decide I just can’t swing the one-piece 🙂
Perhaps try two-tone like Cashmerette with a belt – it can be a ‘secret’ jumpsuit!
I love that you love to sew, and blog it, because I love to read and look at the lovely things you sew! Lots of love all around 🙂
Thank you so much – that’s made me smile tonight xox
I hope you do either take in or remake the black one. It looks so elegant. Actually doesn’t look too big to me but it’s hard to tell with black fabric and I’m reading this on my phone so the pics are tiny. Anyway it’s lovely.
Thank you Catherine – that is the one blessing of black – it can be so difficult to sew (especially at night which is when I sew!) but it does fit a lot of sins!
I love the black one! I’ve been drooling over jumpsuits the whole summer, but being pregnant I’ll have to wait till next year to make one… But this pattern/your version(s) are just gorgeous!
Babies! Such a joy but they do throw wardrobe plans into chaos for a while, I hope you find some time in summer to make a jumpsuit for yourself.
I absolutely love your jumpsuits! Especially the second one! And the bodice is so good! I thought I didn’t need a jumpsuit… oh, well, maybe next summer (it’s almost autumn here) 🙂
There is always another summer around the corner! We had our first genuinely warm day of spring today – what a joy!
I haven’t ever seen a RTW jumpsuit/playsuit that I liked. Mostly because when I try it on the proportions are all wrong and it seems to hug in the wrong places (I’m not even big!). I certainly wouldn’t have thought a long and wide leg jumpsuit would look good on me, but you have me wondering… I’m interested in the sleeved version though. I always like wearing sleeves in the summer to protect my shoulders.
I think the legs create a great sense of balance and I also feel that it’s not so obvious or cutesy if that makes sense? I always try on a wide variety of styles in shops – because you just never know! I once had a strapless jumpsuit with harem style legs and it was rather awesome. I wore it camping a lot!
This looks amazing on you! I love love love this pattern, but not sure it’s me. Oh well, I’ll hang around blog land for a bit and see whether the no doubt other countless versions sway me or not!!! 😊
That’s often what I do – sooner or later I cave in to temptation – or I find the perfect alterative…
As soon as I saw this pattern I loved it, but now I see your actual iterations of the pattern I love it even more. Oh yeah there’s the practical down side about a jumpsuit – going to the loo, but it will be just fine in summer. I remember owning a couple of playsuits about 20 years ago and loved them, probably a bit too old to pull them off now but it might look okay with a bit of length added.
Who makes these rules about what’s appropriate for our ages 🙂 I think in a solid it’s pretty classy and timeless. Confidence is very thing – you can do it!
Gorgeousness!! I especially would love to make the sleeved bodice version. Curious though…, what length is the zipper? I have found that having a small waist and blessed hips, the zip has to be longer.
I also have a small waist so I can relate to the need for a long zipper. For this version of the jumpsuit the zipper is 18 inches. The legs are wider which helps but I think you could get away with longer, depends on your fabric choice.
Your black Holly is my fav! It looks so chic on you..
Thank Margo – I was so surprised and happy with both of them – the black is so classic though. I feel like I need chunky gold jewellery…
Fabric Library. Love it, I’m going to take that turn of phase and pass it off as my own 🙂
Gorgeous makes, after reading this and Cashmerette maybe I will rethink my “jumpsuits are not for me” stance.
Hooray! I always say you never know until you try – you go girl!
I never really took jump suits seriously, until I saw your versions! They are both great but I’m swaying more towards the solid. I also love the wide legs. You look fabulous in both of them.
I think the wide legs are so timeless and classy, not to mention that you can just swoosh into a room…
Gorgeous!! Gorgeous Hollies, of course and as always beautifully written up. Love your sewing blogging loveliness, even if I don’t comment all the time 🙂 xx
Heavens – never mind that – I’ve been terrible at commenting this year. So tired and so overwhelmed with family things… life is improving and I’m making a conscious effort online at the moment… need to get back into the groove.
These look so nice on you! I especially like the Hawaiian print version- it’s so fun! Wide legs aren’t really my thing but these look so glamorous on you!
It’s weird I like skinny jeans but wide legged trousers, especially for work, they just feel ‘right’
before i got to the hanging out sentence i was all GIMMIE THAT HAWAIIAN RIOT RIGHT NOW.
your assumption is monumentally correct. in fact, i want to copy all of your hollys (dress?! YES).
Please do 😉 with cocktail in hand of course!
Love both Hollies on you… (And I just spotted the “dress” too!) The black one looks very sophisticated! Too bad it is a little big BUT it looks good in the pics- and I guess you can make another one! I think the black definitely looks more dressy than the print. But the print is awesome and fun!
I think they both have their place, the black feels more like dinner & drinks with friends. Crazy print is more daytime wear.
Wow, those look great! I’m not a jumpsuit girl but they look fab on you! I lurrrrrve a cowl neckline too – just so flattering! Thanks for sharing the info and also the scenery. Lived there when I was little for a time and am so hoping to go back for a proper visit one day 🙂 Your blog is definitely a favourite of mine. Keep doing what you’re doing! It makes you happy – which is the most important thing 🙂 x
It’s such a small world! If you ever pop back, make sure you contact me 🙂
I’m very excited by the jumpsuit pattern. My daughter has ordered something just like it. Hope I win.
Sorry that you didn’t but maybe next time – so many entrants!! Over 300!!
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